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Old Feb 03, 2008, 12:08 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,334 Posts
Thanks folks.

Full body shot today on it's way.
For filler I use an automotive spot glazing putty. Sands very easily, made by Bondo. I don't think it's that terribly heavy, as long as you don't build the entire model of it.
One mistake I made, I forgot to install the elevator joiner wire BEFORE I mounted the stab, but after much creative use of 4 letter words, it's in. Oh well, live and learn. Only wish I DID live and learn!
One suggestion for the cut files, add some formers for the bottom of the wing center section, to continue the fuselage shape. I'm just finishing sheeting that area after trial and error cutting and fitting of my own formers. I would also suggest to anyone building this, and they should build it, is to have the wing root leading edge of the center section attached to the fuse. That would make it easier for wing removal. Okay, gotta go take a full body shot, I assume of the plane, not me, right?
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Old Feb 03, 2008, 12:25 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,334 Posts
Mild dimentia is a good thing, that's how I cope with life in general!
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Old Feb 03, 2008, 03:53 PM
frenzyscot
Dundee, Scotland
Joined Oct 2004
652 Posts
Nicely done Craig,

Scale looks pretty spot on as well and the wing came out really nice.

Copy that for the bottom centre wing section, since this is pretty flat would be easy to have a couple of formers to blend with rear fuselage, most of this area is flat anyway since the fuselage tapers to a flat section at the root of the flaps.
Was looking at my reference book again today and glimpsed again at the hawker tornado prototype,lots of character in that plane and not a terribly popular subject. this got to be done as well, if only...
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Old Feb 03, 2008, 04:04 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,334 Posts
Yup, get drafting!
You're right, not that much curve the the bottom section, just have to do the little curved back piece of that honking big airbreather! Wing should be ready for glassing next week. Now they've got me in classes! Taking some courses on people with disabilities for my work.
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Old Feb 04, 2008, 09:46 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,334 Posts
Okay, a step backwards tonight. Due to what I think is the shape of the fuse at the leading edge/fuse junction, I cannot get my fillets to work no matter if they're mounted on the fuse or the wing. I had made them in 2 pieces, but because the rear of the wing has to drop down from the fuse to get the front of the wing to come out of the retainer hole, it forces the front top surface of the wing up, into a wider portion of the fuse, causing a jam. So I've taken the wing fillets off for the time being and might end up mounting the wing permanently to the fuse. The wingspan is such that it would be no major problem keeping it a one piece model, and I can reach the servo leads from the 2 top holes in the top center section of the wing, from the fuse access hatch.
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Old Feb 04, 2008, 10:06 PM
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Ron Daniels's Avatar
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Joined Jan 2001
1,179 Posts
Hi Craig!

I've been down this road a few times......

On a small Typhoon, it may not be a bad idea to mount the wing permanently, as this will simplify things, lighten them up a bit, and greatly reinforce the fuselage at the cockpit opening. I noticed the butt-joint in the fuselage side-sheeting at the rear of your cockpit opening. This is a potential break point for a rough landing. With a glued on wing, this is no longer an issue.

I found the main issue with removable wings on Typhoons to be the fact that the radiator cowling extends under the wing. I solved this by making the rear portion stay attached to the wing, when the wing is removed. It is still necessary to either leave a gap to allow the wing to rock front to back, so that the trailing edge can be dropped down to allow it to clear the fuselage and slide back to release the leading edge dowel.

Going with a completely bolt-on (no dowel) wing would negate the need for a gap, but would add weight.


Hope this helps!





Ron Daniels
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Old Feb 05, 2008, 02:44 AM
frenzyscot
Dundee, Scotland
Joined Oct 2004
652 Posts
Hi Craig,
A couple of things here,

For your fillets, only extend them 3/4 from the trailing edge towards the leading edge, as both typhoons and tempests had really small fillets (wing-fuse) Behind the trailing edge extend them towards the rudder for only 1/5th the length of the wing, again really small fillet section there as well. I don't use fillets for structural support of the wing-fuse, so I usually cover fillet with glass-epoxy and once cured hard hollow most if the balsa. That way the fillet retains flexibility to accommodate bending when removing/sitting the wing.
Also you can sand a little bit of the central upper leading edge to a round/curvy shape to help things.

PS Since Ron mentioned the radiator, and you are not using landing gear, just to suggest you use a second layer of resin/tissue for the radiator for those less than perfect landings.
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Old Feb 05, 2008, 01:13 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,334 Posts
Think I might go with Ron's suggestion and go with the one piece model. It never seems to fail that once I'm at the flying field, I usually lose the wing bolt! Also with that built in weak spot I made with the sheeting on the fuse, this will strengthen the whole assembly up. I will keep the locating dowel, because it sure locks the wing in nice and straight. Then I'll put on a small fillet of microballoons and epoxy.
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Old Mar 03, 2008, 09:55 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,334 Posts
No real different progress pics to show, in process of covering with silkspan and resin. I'll post a pic of the beastie once in primer. The silkspan and finishing resin sure doesn't add much weight to it.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 02:33 PM
Registered User
United States, TN, Blountville
Joined Oct 2002
3,549 Posts
Looking good in the primer coat, she'll be pretty in the air. What markings are you planning?

RAFster
David
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 02:44 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,334 Posts
Thanks Rafster,

On page 6 of this thread there's some colour plates, will be going with the green and brown camo scheme, got the Testor's Model Masters paints to mix with the nitrate dope, hope to start spraying next week, gotta put the panel lines on first though.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 03:01 PM
frenzyscot
Dundee, Scotland
Joined Oct 2004
652 Posts
Nice looking dressed in primer,

Just my little contribution for your canopy work, it is from mark B but they are the same in mark A
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 03:29 PM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
Joined Jul 2006
3,334 Posts
Aha, now I might have to adjust my main canopy frame a bit, give it more of a rounded top. Good thing you posted these pics as I didn't realize the forward side frames angled in at the bottom like they do. Now I gotta make a rouned top center section too. mmmmmm maybe I'll carve a plug!
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