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Old Sep 02, 2007, 12:07 PM
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Thanks Dave, guess i'll just keep on converting the wound motors, so I won't have to fight with the magnet removal. I like the 10T for 2s. Got another stock 1300 with broken leads, going to try a 13t for fun.

Paul
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Old Sep 02, 2007, 11:17 PM
Dave North
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Hey Paul,

The magnets come loose in the kit, so you don't have to remove them. Just space 'em and stick 'em in. That's most of the point of the kit! Heck, I wish they would assemble the rest...


Dave
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Old Sep 10, 2007, 05:15 AM
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Antony (France)
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Hi Dave

When using 12 slots dLRK, there are different equivalent ways to have the six wires ends on particular slots.

1) For Wye. You can exit different ways, but no specific advantage.
2) For Delta, Ralph is indicating a particular way where the ends are going out THE SAME SLOT (to be soldered together)
He named "Zig-Zag"

As you are great in making a photo-tutorial, I suggest to you to make another tuturial for this dLRK 12 slots Delta procedure, starting from the middle of each section.

Thanks
Louis
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Old Sep 10, 2007, 11:06 AM
Dave North
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourdan
For Delta, Ralph is indicating a particular way where the ends are going out THE SAME SLOT (to be soldered together)
Right. And I think it would be a good idea to make a few photos of that -- really all it boils down to is reversing the orientation of the adjacent loops so you're winding to the "outside," then doing the "big" transit to 150 degrees rather than 210. (Did I say that right? No wonder photos are a good idea!)

My object in this thread was primarily to avoid confusion, and show a system that would come as close as possible to ensuring a good result the first time. In truth, if the wind is only two layers and relatively easy, I don't start from the middle. Who wants those goofy wires flopping around all over the place?


Dave
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Old Sep 10, 2007, 12:10 PM
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Antony (France)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timocharis
Right. And I think it would be a good idea to make a few photos of that -- really all it boils down to is reversing the orientation of the adjacent loops so you're winding to the "outside," then doing the "big" transit to 150 degrees rather than 210. (Did I say that right? No wonder photos are a good idea!)

My object in this thread was primarily to avoid confusion, and show a system that would come as close as possible to ensuring a good result the first time. In truth, if the wind is only two layers and relatively easy, I don't start from the middle. Who wants those goofy wires flopping around all over the place?


Dave
Hi Dave
All the world is waiting for your new future clear tutorial, with photos.
I am sure that you are capable to avoid any confusion for any reader even a beginner.
Best regards
Louis
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Old Sep 10, 2007, 11:18 PM
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Whew ! I just finished my first CD ROM build! I put together the Blue Wonder kit and followed your tutorial Tim. You did an excellent job splainin' everything . My motor didn't smoke my ESC and ran. Actually I checked each phase for shorts to the stator before, so I was pretty sure it should be good to go, if I didn't screw up on my turn counts. That was the most challenging part. That and winding neatly enough to have that last little slot where the 6th turn on the second layer fits. I had to start over once and re-do a phase twice catching counting errors or making it neater so the last turn would fit properly. Took me about 4 evenings to get it all together. Used the rubber band method for magnet spacing.

Next I need to do some testing to see how I did. Wish I had the tach and thrust tester to really go in-depth, but I can at least check amps, watts and such with my Eagle Tree. I was going to send some photos of the wound stator, but my d-camera won't focus that close. But, it turned out nice and neat...sweet .

I have wanted to do this for quite some time and it really feels like an accomplishment. Truthfully, I figured that I might have some shorts as I was winding the first phase with a lot of tension...so much so that I had the wire break and was the reason for one of the start overs. Glad they give enough wire for winding at least two kits if you wanted to. Not that I'm any authority, but one word of advice to newbies is to check the entire length of wire for each phase for nicks or bare spots in the insulation before starting. That caused me to have to re-do a phase once. I don't know if it came off the spool that way or if I did it myself (most likely) while the second half of the phase was flopping around while I wound the first half.

I can't wait to fly it in my E-flite 260 foamy. I had been using the 1500kv factory wound Blue...er...."Pink" Wonder.
Flynfrfun
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 12:24 AM
Dave North
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flyn, you just made my day. Thanks!


Dave
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 04:43 AM
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Good onya Tim well done.
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Old Sep 14, 2007, 10:53 PM
Dave North
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The Delta Variant

Louis mentioned the Delta variant where the wires emerge next to each other. This is kind of keen in that it "automatically" tells you which wires to pair up when terminating.

So here's how you do it -- only a slight variation of the original wind.

Start using two teeth only 150 degrees apart, instead of the 210 in the original tutorial. The "alternate description" is "one less than halfway around." As usual, the picture should make it clearer. As before, use one side to lock it firm so the other can be wound snugly.
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Old Sep 14, 2007, 10:57 PM
Dave North
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First Two Teeth Done

Wind just as before, except it will seem like you're going the other direction on each side. But the real difference is, when you come back "up" you'll be on the "outside" of the tooth rather than between the two adjacent teeth.

Note in the picture the wire comes in from the left, goes around the first tooth clockwise, then transits to the second tooth and goes counterclockwise. When you're done with both teeth, the wire is not emerging between them, but outside one of them. This is what works the magic.

Note also that the transition from one tooth to the next is away from the "nose" of the the wire across the bearing tube rather than toward it.

Really, that's all it boils down to. But I'll show you a bit more.
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Old Sep 14, 2007, 10:59 PM
Dave North
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Start The Third Tooth

Here's the start on the opposite side, which helps make it clearer I hope. When done with this tooth, you'll be moving to the tooth behind it in the picture.

Ever notice how close macros make everything look like it's covered with crud?
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Old Sep 14, 2007, 11:02 PM
Dave North
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Fourth Tooth Finished

Say the title three times fast.

Okay, the only really important thing here is you can see how the wires emerge at this point. I'm doing 14 turns, by the way, using stock wire.
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Old Sep 14, 2007, 11:05 PM
Dave North
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Start Your Second Wire

The idea here is the same as in the original technique: move the nose (the middle of the wire that goes from one side of the stator to the other) 120 degrees -- which is four teeth. Actually, four tooth gaps.

Then you just do the same thing all over again, as usual. Note that one of the new starting teeth sits next to the ones you just finished, while the other does not. This is just the same as the other technique.

Holy cow that picture looks complicated.
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Old Sep 14, 2007, 11:07 PM
Dave North
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Evidence That It Works

Okay, here we have the first completed pair. See how the two termination wires emerge from the same gap? That's the whole point.

That winding looks a little sloppy to me.
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Old Sep 14, 2007, 11:11 PM
Dave North
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On The Other Side

Things look a bit different when you finish the other side. Everything's emerging from the outside! Okay, that just means the third phase will take care of both ends -- not to worry.

Note the little X pattern where both the "start" wires cross. That's the place where you aim the "nose" of the third phase transit wire.
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