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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:54 PM
Dave North
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Mini-HowTo
Winding Distributed LRK Using The 24-gram Hexkit

Though we're using the Hextronic 24-gram Kit from United Hobbies -- based on their popular Blue Wonder motor -- this method should work just fine for any dLRK attempt. I've picked an easy wind that any patient person should suffer only mimially to be successful. We'll be doing 13 turns of the stock wire supplied with the kit, which is convenient.

LRK is more difficult than a typical ABC or CDROM wind because some teeth have to be wound in the opposite direction from others, which is clumsy at first. Also, the wire transits from one tooth to the next while turning in the opposite direction, which can really twist your socks early on. But it's easy enough with a little practice.

Also, you'll have to glue in the magnets yourself. Since only 14 are used with dLRK, you'll have to space them out about 1mm. There are all manner of techniques to do this (Manuel uses 22-gauge wire, I use some plastic that just happens to be right, some people use rubber bands ...) and that's an entirely different problem.

Plan on taking a lot of time for your first effort. It will probably seem impossible, but if you carefully follow the steps and photos, you'll probably get as good a motor as any on the market in this weight class.

Dave
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:55 PM
Dave North
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Set Your Wire

First you should cut three lengths of the wire at least 36" long (for starters, 40" or more is probably wise. Extra wire may prove useful). Find the rough center of one, and bend it about the same radius as the bearing tube, then place it as shown in the picture.

Easy, huh?
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:56 PM
Dave North
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Lock And Load

Make a few turns around any post. Your entire purpose is just to lock the wire in place so you can make the other side snug when you start, and keep the wire from slipping around so it stays centered.

There is no reason to choose one side over the other -- the entire wind is mirror symmetrical, so you'll have to do the "other" side later anyway. However, for a beginner, you might consider starting as I do since the first tooth you wind will be in the "normal" direction. No big deal though.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:56 PM
Dave North
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Start Your Wind

You do have to be particular about the other tooth. It should be 210 degrees from the first tooth measured along the wire. Another way to say that is "one tooth more than halfway around." It's pretty clear in the picture.

It's not entirely clear which way the wires turn when you look at the photo. The half of the tgurn you can see is going "away" (toward the top of the photo). It will always be the case in this type of wind that on the same side of the stator as the transit from tooth to tooth, the first wire will point away from the transit.

An easier way to remember it? The wire should always turn so it ends up between the two teeth in the same phase. This may get a little clearer as we go along.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:57 PM
Dave North
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How The Turns Look

This is primarily a reference closeup so you can see how the wire comes onto the tooth and how the turn direction relates to that. Also, some idea of the "neatness quotient" required.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:58 PM
Dave North
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Finish The First Layer

You ahould be able to fit 7 turns flat to the first layer, counting on the side opposite the bearing tube. Having done that, it's a good idea to smoosh them flat to the tooth. I use a bit of carbon plate left over from an old build, but anything similar should suit.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:59 PM
Dave North
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The Turn 7 Bulge

Note that turn 7 seems to stick up a bit on the side. This is perfectly normal and nothing to be concerned about. The others should fit entirely flat.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:59 PM
Dave North
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Turns 8 Through 13

Turn 8 should go basically on top of turn 7 on both sides. This is done partly by just keeping the wire outside (toward the hammerhead) of turn 7. When you get to the bulge, this will seem impossible, but don't worry about it. You no longer have to worry about keeping the wire on top.

The reason for all this will become clear later.

Just keep going until you count 13 on the bottom of the stator. If you have 7 on the first layer, you can count on the second layer starting from 8, so it's clear you should see six wires (that's another reason neatness and repitition count: you know what your first layer is, so you can visually count during the second layer and make sure everything is right).

Note the wires seem a little loose near the end.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 06:00 PM
Dave North
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Start Your Second Tooth

This tooth will be wound in the opposite direction from the last one. The first couple of turns of your second tooth should be a little loose -- don't really snug them down at all right now. This is another of those "you'll see" deals -- just hold on.

Finally you can see the "turn to the inside" rule. If you glance at the previous picture, you'll see the wire was emerging from the left side of the tooth you were winding. Now you reverse direction, and the wire is emerging on the right side of this tooth. In both cases, the wire emerged up between these two teeth. Once you grasp that rule, it's easy to figure out which way to turn at any given tooth.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 06:01 PM
Dave North
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Finish The Second Tooth

Basically you're doing the same thing all over again, but when you get to turn 8 it will seem a bit different. That's because of the transition from one direction to the other, and the crossing wire. Do your best and you should end up with something that looks like this photo at turn 12-1/2 (just before you finish the last turn).

Note the roomy look near the inside of the stator. That's what you've been shooting for all along -- enough space to neatly thread through that last half turn (the "Money Turn.")
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 06:01 PM
Dave North
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Jam In The Crossing Wire

If you take an old prop (one of those ruined 8040 HDs is perfect) and jam the skinny end between the two teeth, it will press that crossing wire back against the stator. This gives you the maximum room for threading the wire through.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 06:02 PM
Dave North
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Make Space

Another useful trick is slipping the end of the prop between the teeth and pushing it all the way through. This will spread the wire apart and make it easier to slip more wire in. This trick is useful just about any time you're on the second layer -- not just near the end.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 06:03 PM
Dave North
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The Gap

Here's a look at the gap you've been working to create. That's where you want to thread the wire through. The bigger the better.

Unlike me, you should do this in focus.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 06:03 PM
Dave North
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Threading

Once it's started the rest is easy. But you do need to be careful that the orientation stays right. If the wire gets twisted out of the plane perpindicular to the tooth, it can bind and cause a knot. Sooner or later you'll do that and see exactly what I mean.
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 06:04 PM
Dave North
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One Side Finished

There are two teeth per phase on each side of the stator. You're now done with this length of wire and can cut it off and stick the end into the bearing tube. Don't cut tooooo short -- you'll need some end to terminate the motor. But at least you can get the end out of the way so it doesn't flap around (like the other end has been all along).

At least you only have a long wire getting in your way half the time.
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