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Old Nov 22, 2002, 07:47 PM
Speeding? Just flying low
Clay's Avatar
Garden Grove,CA USA
Joined Jan 2001
115 Posts
Smart V-tail setup

Hey you Smart guys, I'm looking for ideas on the v-tail setup for my Smart. I'd like to do something using a ball cup on each elevator half. There isn't much room at the back of the fuse . Here are my questions.
1) There is a lot of excess glue around the inserted threads for the v-tail to screw into. How much of that glue can I Dremel away to make room for the pushrod?

2) What is the lightest pushrod that I can use that will give adequate stiffness.

3) Has anyone joined the v-tails together and had just one pushrod exit, connected by a ball link. If not, what other setup do you recommend. I'm considering installing 2/56 threaded rod control horns in the v-tails and then soldering ball ends to those rods. There isn't much room, but I don't need much throw.

Thanks in advance to the Ezone family.
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Old Nov 23, 2002, 12:17 AM
Speed Demon
GregG's Avatar
Antioch,CA,USA
Joined Dec 1999
12,336 Posts
Re: Smart V-tail setup

Quote:
Originally posted by Clay
Hey you Smart guys, I'm looking for ideas on the v-tail setup for my Smart. I'd like to do something using a ball cup on each elevator half. There isn't much room at the back of the fuse . Here are my questions.
1) There is a lot of excess glue around the inserted threads for the v-tail to screw into. How much of that glue can I Dremel away to make room for the pushrod?
Thanks in advance to the Ezone family.
The epoxy slurry on my fuse was filed away until the metal captive nuts holding on the V-tail were exposed. I kept filing until I hit metal on the underside of them. There is still plenty of epoxy on all sides to holdit together. This gave enough room for the plastic ball joint ends to clear. Solder your ball joints as far away from the control surface as possible to cut control throws to a minimum. It doesn't take much elevator throw at all once you get the CG set.
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Old Nov 24, 2002, 01:54 PM
Master of the Wind
AIR MOVER's Avatar
TEXAS
Joined Jun 2001
3,044 Posts
heres my solution on a micro racer .. it had to be strong to fly fast ...... carbon tube and rods.. and the control horns are cut out of fiberglass sheet... very tough.. this plane goes over 50mph with this set up.. this is set up as tailerons... these are full moveing stabs.. so they have tobe set up ridged.... anyways just something to see in the way of a V tail.. good luck...
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Old Nov 25, 2002, 10:16 AM
Registered User
Corvallis, OR
Joined Mar 2000
1,164 Posts
There was an extensive discussion about this a few months ago...do a search. There were some photos, too. GregG has the neatest set-up, although I recall he used 2 servos (as ruddervator).

Mine only functions as elevator, so I used a music wire that's soldered to 2 "thinner" music wires at the end such that it's shaped V; the 2 tips each connected to each elevator by a ball link.

I also had to cut a portion of the tail of the fuselage and carefully "dremel" the glue (for the tail attachment) until binding is eliminated.

It's so easy to get neurotic trying to do this v-tail linkage. BUt you'll be rewarded with a nice flier. Good luck.

Ron
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Last edited by electricrcflyer; Nov 25, 2002 at 10:19 AM.
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Old Nov 26, 2002, 04:26 AM
Speeding? Just flying low
Clay's Avatar
Garden Grove,CA USA
Joined Jan 2001
115 Posts
Vtail

Ron, Thanks for the advice. I've done a few searches but haven't hit gold yet. It sounds like I'll be doing a similar setup to yours.

Do you think that a HS-81mg is of sufficient power and accuracy to use for the Smart, or would you guys recommend a higher quality, same-sized elevator servo?

Clay
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Old Nov 26, 2002, 05:24 AM
Registered User
Corvallis, OR
Joined Mar 2000
1,164 Posts
Re: Vtail

"Do you think that a HS-81mg is of sufficient power and accuracy to use for the Smart, or would you guys recommend a higher quality, same-sized elevator servo?"

Clay [/B][/QUOTE]

__________________________________________________ __


I initially used a plain HS-81 servo but the nylon gear broke
leaving an "up" elevator that contributed to a tipstall and eventual crash (miraculously w/o damage). I've since then
been using an HS-85MG. I think the HS-81 is enough (I know most just use plain nylon servos). The problem was w/ my elevator. I should have "loosened" it at the hinge point. I noticed that when not connected to the servo,
my elevator is "up." It took SOME effort to have the elevator
in-line or flush with the rest of the vertical stab. So when it's connected to the servo, even when the elevator is not used, there was a constant pull, and this led to stripping of the nylon gear.

Try to search on the "Sailplane" section.


Ron
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Old Nov 26, 2002, 08:46 PM
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rlanzi's Avatar
Durango, CO
Joined Dec 2000
129 Posts
Picked up some 1/8 inch carbon fiber rods w/ 2-65 fittings from www.centralhobbies.com. Very light and great stiffness for this application. Have not finished the V-tail on my smart yet but plan to use elevator only and hook up similar to the review in the recent Quiet Flyer mag.
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Old Nov 27, 2002, 01:13 AM
Speed Demon
GregG's Avatar
Antioch,CA,USA
Joined Dec 1999
12,336 Posts
You can see more pictures on my web page for the Smart. I've tried two different setups for the V-tail. The single HS-81 servo uses a carbon fiber tube with a 2-56 sized Z-bend epoxied into the forward end and couple of threaded 2-56 rod ends soldered together epoxied at the aft end. The dual CS-21bb servo setup uses threaded rod ends epoxied onto .088" carbon fiber rods at both ends. The aft end of both versions uses ball joints. If I did a single servo again, I'd go with an HS-85. I'm currently using the two servos to experiment with rudder, it seems to straighten out the climbs and the V-tail actually works well as a rudder. The glow fliers are astounded by it's arrow straight, rolling climbs. I've raced a local hot rodder with .60 glow powered sport ship to altitude and smoked him! Here's a look at the servo trays I've built. You build them and install the servos and rods before sliding the whole thing back into the fuse and drilling up through the fuse bottom and then the servo tray. A couple of screws driven up from the bottom holds the whole deal in place.




Heres the ball links at the aft end. You have to sand a bit off each plastic ball link to keep them from interfering with each other for ruddervator. Using one servo this shouldn't be a problem.



Edit:

Changed link so the pics work again.
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Last edited by GregG; Nov 20, 2005 at 10:57 AM.
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