Club president gave me a couple of pages from a magazine lastnight. Some plans for a wildcat from FFF. Looks like pretty easy build. Kinda HOTS, SLOWSTANG-ish. Looks alot like the mumbo minor I did a month ago and hated. (FLEW POORLY) (looked great).

I'll try and post some pics as I build it.

OH almost forgot. WS 42 Length 37 WA 454sq/in weight 16oz (mine will be lighter I hope) Motor used was an eflite 400 outrunner and 3 cell. Think I'll use my 2410-08 and 3 cell with 9047.

VIDEO:

[url]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?
t=742587#post8175923[/url

Jasta 66 asked for plans. I kept the plane (pretty beat up) for making templates. Roughly traced out lastnight and scanned as Jpg's. So here's what I got. It at least will give you an idea of the size/shape and tail and wing location/orientation. Here it is.

What I got done. With my little helper. New rule in the house. 3yr olds can't get into the vinegar bottle and spill it on the floor unless they're making salad dressing.

Scaling up from magazine page 250% (not fun, but fun).

Going to try and put in "scale" dihedral.

That's one of Tim Stagg's Designs The whole article is in the October issue of Model Airplane News. Tim has a whole collection of great easy to build planes. If you need to contact him he can be reached at:

3D Foam Innovations
Tim Stagg
8454 Colony Circle
Easton, MD 21601
Phone: 410-819-6595
E-Mail: dfoaminnovations@yahoo.com

http://www.3dfoaminnovations.com/

I've got the F4Fplans the Trojan and the P-40. All are very nicely done.

Jason
MaxAmps Marketing Manager
jason@maxamps.com
www.maxamps.com

THANKS. You beat me to it. I was going to ask if anybody knew who TIM was and how to reach him. I went the site and couldn't find the plans anywhere. All I got are 3 pages from the october mag. Was hoping he might email me a set of the full size one's.

Got the wing panels built and glued together. Cut slots in fuse for wings and horizontal stab. Looking good so far. This plane is kinda weird. The wings and stab are not parallel with the bottom of fuse. They are both inclined a little. Looks strange, but kinda makes sense for incidence.

I understand that the motor mount needs to be angled a little right and down, but how do you guy's "measure" it in.

I guess i'm asking what tools (protractor?) do you use? How do you get it to a perfect 3 degrees both way's. I'm thinking of using a mount like Gene Bonds Blucub 2. If you haven't seen it it's firewall and stick mount built out of the plane as a box and glued in later.

Or is there an easier way?

Originally Posted by DRITCH

I understand that the motor mount needs to be angled a little right and down, but how do you guy's "measure" it in.

I guess i'm asking what tools (protractor?) do you use? How do you get it to a perfect 3 degrees both way's. I'm thinking of using a mount like Gene Bonds Blucub 2. If you haven't seen it it's firewall and stick mount built out of the plane as a box and glued in later.

Or is there an easier way?

Yes. Here's how this author would do it.

If you want 3 degrees right and 3 degrees down, simply make a some spacers that will establish the angle you want, e.g., for a stick more than 4 inches long,

spacer thickness = stick length x angle (degrees) / 57.3 (degrees/radian)

= 4 x 3 / 57.3 = 0.21 inches, say 0.2 inches

Now, for a tractor configuration, placing a 0.2 inch spacer 4 inches aft of the nose under a stick mounted on top of the horizontal surface of a cruciform fuselage), will produce 3 degrees down.

Similarly, a 0.2 inch spacer placed 4 inches ahead of the aft spacer, i.e., at the nose, between the starboard-side vertical surface of a cruciform fuselage and the stick, will produce 3 degrees right.

OTOH, if the stick is mounted in holes in vertical bulkheads 4 inches apart, you'd simply cut the holes in the forward bulkhead 0.2 inches to starboard and 0.2 inches lower than the holes in the aft bulkhead.

Cheers,
Bill Segraves

P.S. It's easier to do this than to write/read about it. ;-)

I got it now. So 1/5th or 16 divided by 5 = about 3/16th of an inch.

Offset front hole 3/16 right and down if I understand it correctly. It's the 57.3 part that I really needed. Must have somehow forgot that in the last 20 years. Or been using the TLAR method in my woodworking too much.

Thanks.

built this one from same mag. pg. and from article info figured out dimensions. i used a flat kf wing design from the regal thread. powered by a 2410-12 rewind and a 1700 ma. flies great on low rates. i'm not fast enough for hi rates. looks almost scale at 20 feet up. you'll like this one, good luck.

Cool.

I'm using the little page and multiplying the cm's on my ruler by 250 % and measuring on to foam in inches. I think i'm at about 40 WS and 34 length. About the right size for my power. I'm just beginning to use full throw on my HOLY @#$% plane. Really gotta watch not holding for too long and stalling or ripping the wings off. I was hoping for that scale look. Still trying to decide what to leave hanging out the back for that tail wheel "look" with out using a wheel. Might just use popsicle stick and wood wheel.

Got any pic's?

I'd sure like to see it.

Originally Posted by DRITCH

I got it now. So 1/5th or 16 divided by 5 = about 3/16th of an inch.

Offset front hole 3/16 right and down if I understand it correctly. It's the 57.3 part that I really needed. Must have somehow forgot that in the last 20 years. Or been using the TLAR method in my woodworking too much.

Thanks.

Referring to the above formula:

spacer thickness = stick length x angle (degrees) / 57.3 (degrees/radian)

and rearranging,

we get

angle (degrees) = spacer thickness x 57.3 / stick length
= .1875 x 57.3 / 4.0
= 2.69, say 2.7 degrees

Alternatively,

stick length = spacer thickness x 57.3 / angle (degrees)
= .1875 x 57.3 / 3
= 3.581, say 3.6 inches

So, to produce 3 degrees with a 3/16 inch offset/spacer, the bulkhead spacing or the spacing of the 3/16 inch spacer would have to be 3.6 inches.

Yes, it's easy to forget over so many years. Recall that there are 2 x Pi radians in a circle, so

1 radian = 360 / (2 x Pi)
= 180 / 3.14159
= 57.2958, say 57.3 degrees

Cheers,
Bill Segraves

Building with the TLAR method makes 3.6 "look" like about 4. With 4 inch stick 1/4 lost to rear bulkhead and about 5/8 lost to stick out da front. So about 3.6 it is. Yay.

With a mid-wing like that , you may NOT need any downthrust ... a little right thrust can't hurt ...torque...

Originally Posted by DRITCH

Building with the TLAR method makes 3.6 "look" like about 4. With 4 inch stick 1/4 lost to rear bulkhead and about 5/8 lost to stick out da front. So about 3.6 it is. Yay.

Isn't it great when science/mathematics agrees with TLAR? ;-)

I thought so at first, but then really pondered the thrust line. It's a thick, blunt nose, symetrical wing with almost 1/2 inch incidence. Reminds me of my slowstick. And that got me to. My slowstick needs alot of down elevator with a brushless and anything over half throttle.