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Old Nov 19, 2002, 10:43 AM
Certified Slopehead
tenover's Avatar
San Diego, CA.
Joined Jan 2001
2,268 Posts
Rave
Finally finished my Bluto!!

I finally finished it, and it came out pretty nice actually....I must've spent one full night drawing out design ideas for the covering, and ended up using the "standard" NCFM design on top and just a last minute idea on the bottom so it wasn't all one color. It came in at 37oz., ready to fly. Hopefully the wind will be up this weekend!
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 11:02 AM
No fuse too fat
slopeiron's Avatar
USA, CA, Redondo Beach
Joined Apr 2002
3,875 Posts
Scott,
Your Bluto looks great! I like the colors you chose. Great job with the covering; nice and smooth! You should see my foamie. Let us know how it flies.

Russ.
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 11:16 AM
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San Diego, CA.
Joined Jan 2001
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Thanks Russ....
It's by far the best covering job I've done. Dereck at NCFM turned me on to a great way of covering the wing tips, where you literally just pull the bejeezus out of the covering, literally bending the wingtip in the process to get all the wrinkles out, then trimming, then repeating on the opposite side. I didn't have to cut any slits in the covering, and it came out as smooth as I've ever seen....Well, maybe not as smooth as Harris's and Derecks, but smooth enought to where there are NO wrinkles, lift-ups, or seams showing. Before I tried this method, my wingtips were the first thing to start "lifting" off the foam from dirt, wind, or whatever...Thanks Dereck!
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 12:27 PM
Dances With The Wind
Brian Courtice's Avatar
United States, FL, Punta Gorda
Joined May 2002
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Very nice!
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 12:33 PM
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Cedar Park, Texas, United States
Joined Jul 2002
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Looks great! I can't wait to see you DS it.
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 12:40 PM
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San Diego, CA.
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I think it will be more like IT DSing ME, but we'll see.
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 12:42 PM
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Lakewood, Colorado
Joined Aug 2002
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Looks good. I've never had any real success with the tips. Have to find out what this pull really hard method is all about. On the Moth, I just covered the tips with a couple coats to Goop to keep the Ultracote from tearing up, and it's working good so far.

I can't resist making a comment about blue/white on the bottom. I've nearly specked out my Bluto on a large slope known for its thermals (where the paragliders fly). Light blue and white on the bottom will be harder to see at altitude. May end needing to add a couple thick black stripes at some point.

Anyway, let us know how it flies. Just remember, less elevator is better. If the elevator throw is too big, it'll fly like crap.

ian
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 12:53 PM
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San Diego, CA.
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I know, I know....I did think of that, but I wasn't about to go spend $20.00 on ANOTHER roll of Ultracote, so I decided to use what I had. I'm sure the bottom color scheme couldn't be worse, but oh well....Live and Learn So you put Goop on OVER the Ultracote? Did you thin it out with Toulene, and if so, about how much? That sounds like a good idea, as I can't even imagine landing this thing....Dereck just brings it in like a rocket at his face, stalls it about 3 feet away at shoulder height, sticks his palm out, and the thing just calmly floats down and rests on his hand. O.K., maybe that's a LITTLE exaggeration, but not much. I see myself doing a speed run, 2 feet off the ground and sticking into anything but a rock to land it...
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 01:35 PM
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Yes, I thin the Goop with Toluene and then simply paint it on. If I'm impatient, I'll apply a little light heat to it after a half hour or so and it sometimes cures right away. The more clear and smooth the finish is, the longer it takes Goop to cure. If you want it to go off quick, lightly brush it with card stock or something after it's been sitting a while and it'll cure right away. It goes on over the Ultracote very thin so you might want 2 or 3 light coats.

Still, once it's done, you can't even really see it (it's on my Moth, and you've seen the photos). Certainly looks better than torn up covering and tape patches. I've used it on the LE, and underside of the nose of my combat wing too. It may get a bit torn up itself after a while, but it's better than tearing up the covering, and you can always reapply to smooth it out again.

ian
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 01:42 PM
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Sunnyvale, California, United States
Joined Jul 2000
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Tenover;

Great job on your Bluto!!!

How and what did you use for your charging plug? That is what is holding me back from finishing my Bluto. I don't want to cut into the foam, and not do it right. I have seen some other guy who fly slope, that have there charging plug act as their switch. When it is plugged you are able to charge your battery, and when it is unplugged you are ready to fly. I don't have a photo of this set up, so I can't show you. All it has is a little jack with a charging connector. I think they have it at radio shack, but I am not sure.

Henry
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 01:50 PM
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Davis, CA
Joined Sep 2002
175 Posts
Jack info and covering advice wanted

The type of jack/switch/charging port that you are describing can be purchased from Shredair (www.shredair.com) for $25. I just got two yesterday.

I am about to ultracote the wings of my moth in an alternating black/yellow stripe pattern. Since this is my first time using ultracote on foam, I am a bit curious about techniques as well. When you have multiple colors do you put down one base color film that is totally intact for strength and then layer over colors, or is there just one layer with overlaps between colors? It seems like multiple layers would be stronger, but also heavier. What is the preferred technique?

-Invicta
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 02:30 PM
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Hmhoshi - What I do is buy a simple on/off switch, mount it vertically in the noce with a tiny hole on the top and another on the bottom. When you want to turn it on, tou grab a stick/nail/paperclip/whatever is around, and push the switch up or down (on/off). As for charging, the on/off switch comes with a standard female jack already wired, so I bury that sucker in the foam so after it's covered, all that is showing are the three tiny little holes that the male pins plug into. It makes for an ultra-clean build, with absolutely NOTHING sticking out of the airfoil except the pushrods/servo arms....GrapeApe showed me that one, and I'll never go back to anything else. Total cost is like $5.00 for the switch. If you need me to explain it better or draw a diagram, let me know, as I have no photos, and the holes in the covering are so small, all you'd see is 4 tiny pin holes anyway...

Invicta - I'm sure it would be stronger to cover the whole plane with one giant piece first, but I do it the other way....I just make sure that I leave enough overlap of the colors to take the shrinkage into account....
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 04:12 PM
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Lakewood, Colorado
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I think the weight penalty for adding the layers is negligible, and I like the idea of having as much continuous ultracote as possible. I often have a seam somewhere in the middle, but it has a lot of overlap and then try to keep the rest of the wings continuous. But then I try to keep the trim piece trim sized and not double the amount of ultracote. And the trim pieces can overlap or butt against each other obviously with no serious issues.

ian
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 05:19 PM
Dances With The Wind
Brian Courtice's Avatar
United States, FL, Punta Gorda
Joined May 2002
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Here's what I did. The covers over the battery and reciever openings are balsa. Coroplast could have been used instead. The charging lead gets tucked into a little hole and covered with a small piece of tape before flight. I take the tape off and pull the lead out about an inch and plug it in for charging.

The on off switch fits almost flush. After covering, all you can see is the switch, and it barely protrudes into the airstream at all. Just enough to be able to easily turn it on and off.
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Old Nov 19, 2002, 05:36 PM
Dances With The Wind
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United States, FL, Punta Gorda
Joined May 2002
6,537 Posts
I flew mine a few times before I Ultracoated it. look closely at mine (the plain one) and you can see the ballast tube hatch, the switch in front of that, and the taped over hole for the charge lead in front of that.

BTW The performance of my Bluto improved a lot after I Ultracoated.
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