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Old Dec 28, 2013, 03:40 PM
Forever WTTM Pilot #7
Buzz's Avatar
Daytona Beach, Florida, United States
Joined Aug 2002
12,233 Posts
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Originally Posted by frieslander View Post
Getting sloppy in your old age eh?

no ... not at all. I can still make you laugh your ass off at the nutty things I do.
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Old Dec 28, 2013, 03:46 PM
To Soar Like An Eagle!
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Canada, ON, Woodstock
Joined Dec 2007
7,171 Posts
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Originally Posted by Buzz View Post
no ... not at all. I can still make you laugh your ass off at the nutty things I do.
LOL the spitting image of you Buzz. I filed your name under "Entertainment" with a cross reference to"Laugh of the Day"
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Old Dec 28, 2013, 03:51 PM
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United States, HI, Keaau
Joined Aug 2013
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
I forgot to comment Nice flying for a V4 not "truely" set up for outdoor flying. She seemed to hold well though Do you have an Xtreme swash in that? Longer servo arms? I love the body language and tilting of the TX control as you fly When I first started flying I did the same thing, hoping that moving my body and TX would help with the control of the heli. In a tight situation whether I'm flying my plane or heli, the 'ole habit seems to come back

I'll have to get my youtube account straightened out

Mike.
the swash and servo arms are stock.. everything inside is stock except the airy turbo shaft.. my body language is like fishing trying to reel it back in.. I seem to do most when I am about to fly into the house..

I used to do it with my planes and cars too..

I had a bad fall from about 60ft couple days ago had to replace both shafts, fortunately the airy turbo comes with a spare shaft. it flies better than it did before.. no damage to anything else didn't even break a blade..

before I put he heavier battery in it would level out after about 10 or 20 ft depending on the wind... now it will hold its angle of attack until I back off the throttle.
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Old Dec 28, 2013, 06:06 PM
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United States, HI, Keaau
Joined Aug 2013
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every time I look at the engineering that went into the v4 I am amazed at the simplicity and efficiency of the design..

for example if you take apart the battery holder the rods that the landing gear plug into they are torsion bars.. the whole landing gear structure is designed to absorb impact over and over again.. unlike gear that uses screws to be attached.. this whole structure does not use screws except to attach it to the chassis where it uses captivated mounts that put no stress on the screws..

I didn't know until recently after looking at an exploded view drawing of a v4 that the battery holder could be disassembled.. since I have a few battery holders with broken parts I rebuild them now.

also somehow I ended up with too many left landing gear.. the only difference between left and right is which way the front of the runner is bent.. if you carefully heat the front of the runner you can bend it from left to right or vice versa.. it takes very little heat, like one pass with a bic..
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Old Dec 29, 2013, 08:20 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
10,019 Posts
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Originally Posted by ristokru View Post
I did a test flight indoors and hit the mirror
Now the shaft is bent but gears are fine. I orderd exreme shaft, lets wait and see how good they are.
Simpy wanted to know is there strongers shafts and if yes then what products
I have ordered hardened inner shafts from a company known as MSC. You have to cut to length and then add flat spots for set screws (not grub screws) to sit against. I have never found tubing to make outer shafts that would have more wall thickness/ strength. If you did, you'd have to cut to length as well as adding holes for screws. Typically, you bend inner shafts as there is a decent amount of unsupported shaft sticking up just waiting to be hit. Remember too that extended shafts are a misnomer. The shaft itself is not longer, but the head sitting up on top is taller, thus providing more blade separation. That head sitting up there is taller and also heavier than a stock head and contributes to the shaft bending on impact.
There was a point in time when Xtreme was offering outer shaft gears separately. The problem with them was/ is getting them to run true. Instead of being molded to the shaft, they are held on by a set screw and tend to wobble like crazy - not worth the effort.
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Old Dec 29, 2013, 08:44 AM
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Estonia, Harju County, Püünsi
Joined May 2013
226 Posts
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
I have ordered hardened inner shafts from a company known as MSC. You have to cut to length and then add flat spots for set screws (not grub screws) to sit against. I have never found tubing to make outer shafts that would have more wall thickness/ strength. If you did, you'd have to cut to length as well as adding holes for screws. Typically, you bend inner shafts as there is a decent amount of unsupported shaft sticking up just waiting to be hit. Remember too that extended shafts are a misnomer. The shaft itself is not longer, but the head sitting up on top is taller, thus providing more blade separation. That head sitting up there is taller and also heavier than a stock head and contributes to the shaft bending on impact.
There was a point in time when Xtreme was offering outer shaft gears separately. The problem with them was/ is getting them to run true. Instead of being molded to the shaft, they are held on by a set screw and tend to wobble like crazy - not worth the effort.
I orderd outer shaft with gear. So i hope its only polt on and ready to fly. Screw holes and so on must be like original shaft.
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Old Dec 29, 2013, 08:50 AM
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Estonia, Harju County, Püünsi
Joined May 2013
226 Posts
And i orderd inner shaft without head. All those things must be polt on?
But to i need change bearings to and to i have to but oil somewhere?
I think the bigger problem is opening the lamas body because its mainly clued together
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Old Dec 29, 2013, 07:25 PM
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Joined Dec 2004
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Originally Posted by ristokru View Post
And i orderd inner shaft without head. All those things must be polt on?
But to i need change bearings to and to i have to but oil somewhere?
I think the bigger problem is opening the lamas body because its mainly clued together
I ordered the longer inners and was going swap them with the aluminum kit I ordered from ebay. Good luck getting that shaft out!!!!

A couple of things I found out so far....

I believe the outers are actually less strong than the OEM Esky stuff. The Extremes I got had 4 holes for the lower rotor head mount, one pair for the Esky, and one pair for other.

The tail kit... There was no way in hell, to secure the tail feathers with provided screws.....

The other issue I have is with the cheapo aluminum kit I bought. It seem like the ball links on the lower are too large and the dog bones are binding. The other issue was that the dog bones were touching on the swash plate, I had to bend the tabs where attach up slightly to make clearance.

I was going to clean up the dog bones with a file, but I'm not sure if they will stay on the balls. Is there anyway to clearance the dog bones so they don't bind?

CR
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Old Dec 29, 2013, 09:11 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Joined Mar 2009
10,063 Posts
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Originally Posted by ny_racer_xxx View Post
I ordered the longer inners and was going swap them with the aluminum kit I ordered from ebay. Good luck getting that shaft out!!!!

A couple of things I found out so far....

I believe the outers are actually less strong than the OEM Esky stuff. The Extremes I got had 4 holes for the lower rotor head mount, one pair for the Esky, and one pair for other.

The tail kit... There was no way in hell, to secure the tail feathers with provided screws.....

The other issue I have is with the cheapo aluminum kit I bought. It seem like the ball links on the lower are too large and the dog bones are binding. The other issue was that the dog bones were touching on the swash plate, I had to bend the tabs where attach up slightly to make clearance.

I was going to clean up the dog bones with a file, but I'm not sure if they will stay on the balls. Is there anyway to clearance the dog bones so they don't bind?

CR
could you 'illustrate' this a little bit with pictures CR? I have not "messed around" with my V4 in like a year plus X ... so I am a little at a loss over what you are talking about right now ...
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Old Dec 29, 2013, 09:54 PM
Epilepsy Awareness
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,864 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny_racer_xxx View Post
I ordered the longer inners and was going swap them with the aluminum kit I ordered from ebay. Good luck getting that shaft out!!!!

A couple of things I found out so far....

I believe the outers are actually less strong than the OEM Esky stuff. The Extremes I got had 4 holes for the lower rotor head mount, one pair for the Esky, and one pair for other.

The tail kit... There was no way in hell, to secure the tail feathers with provided screws.....

The other issue I have is with the cheapo aluminum kit I bought. It seem like the ball links on the lower are too large and the dog bones are binding. The other issue was that the dog bones were touching on the swash plate, I had to bend the tabs where attach up slightly to make clearance.

I was going to clean up the dog bones with a file, but I'm not sure if they will stay on the balls. Is there anyway to clearance the dog bones so they don't bind?

CR
Yes, there are 4 holes. Two above and two below on the Xtreme outer shaft. It's been soooo long since I traded out shafts that I forget which set of holes are for what model. But that is normal. There are two tiny holes at the bottom of the shaft. Be very careful screwing those tiny screws through the gear and into the shaft. Take your time! They must be flush and counter sunk. You don't want that tiny screw sticking up over the gear hub. I use a needle to align the holes.

Carefully sand off any plastic slag from all parts. Ream the links and balls with newspaper (for the more experienced modelers use very fine sandpaper).

The only lube I use is "Break Free CLP." For now, some lead pencil scrapings will do.

IMHO, put the stock blade grips back on.

Mike
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Old Dec 30, 2013, 07:00 AM
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Joined Dec 2004
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Thanks for the replies, I will post some pictures when i get a chance....

I was searching for info about binding ball links, and I found they make a reamer for that as well as a few guys make their own by putting a slit on a old ball and using that as a reamer.... I think you want to keep the hole conical so it grips the ball.

CR
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Old Dec 30, 2013, 11:15 AM
Epilepsy Awareness
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,864 Posts
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Originally Posted by ny_racer_xxx View Post
Thanks for the replies, I will post some pictures when i get a chance....

I was searching for info about binding ball links, and I found they make a reamer for that as well as a few guys make their own by putting a slit on a old ball and using that as a reamer.... I think you want to keep the hole conical so it grips the ball.

CR
It's possible you could over do it. I would buy the finest sand paper and use that on the ball. Very little at a time. You can always take off more BUT you can never put it back on. After that I use Break Free CLP. Brush on and wipe off excess. It's plastic safe and works wonders. You can buy Break Free at any gun store or at any fine Outfitters store. A small drop goes a long way

Mike.
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Old Dec 30, 2013, 11:56 AM
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Estonia, Harju County, Püünsi
Joined May 2013
226 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny_racer_xxx View Post
I ordered the longer inners and was going swap them with the aluminum kit I ordered from ebay. Good luck getting that shaft out!!!!

A couple of things I found out so far....

I believe the outers are actually less strong than the OEM Esky stuff. The Extremes I got had 4 holes for the lower rotor head mount, one pair for the Esky, and one pair for other.

The tail kit... There was no way in hell, to secure the tail feathers with provided screws.....

The other issue I have is with the cheapo aluminum kit I bought. It seem like the ball links on the lower are too large and the dog bones are binding. The other issue was that the dog bones were touching on the swash plate, I had to bend the tabs where attach up slightly to make clearance.

I was going to clean up the dog bones with a file, but I'm not sure if they will stay on the balls. Is there anyway to clearance the dog bones so they don't bind?

CR
I have the extreme tail and skids and so on. Very good quality, tail sticks like nailed to body
And landing skids are stonger than oem. With oem parts i have to change skids with every time i crashed.
Today i taked the body apart and with nail bented the outer shaft In table banted the inner shaft and now it flys again and bretty good. Right now i dond even need to replace parts...
But how i can make that heli flys forward how much I want? Right now it flys forward few meters and stops... Longer servo arms?
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Old Dec 30, 2013, 04:17 PM
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Joined Dec 2004
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
It's possible you could over do it. I would buy the finest sand paper and use that on the ball. Very little at a time. You can always take off more BUT you can never put it back on. After that I use Break Free CLP. Brush on and wipe off excess. It's plastic safe and works wonders. You can buy Break Free at any gun store or at any fine Outfitters store. A small drop goes a long way

Mike.
I'd rather over do it with the plastic ball links than with the swash plate.....
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Old Jan 01, 2014, 08:44 PM
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United States, FL, Panama City
Joined Jun 2010
61 Posts
What should the output voltage be for both motors on the 4 in 1? The voltage for it when its throttled completly up..
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