Originally Posted by frieslander

Kodak:

It looks like you are finally getting somewhere, it will be interesing to see how it flies outside. I have a feeling it will fly great.

Durk

I'm optimistic, Durk. Now all we need is that teaser weather we had to come back.

She's looking good Jack. I know your having some FFF issues. If I may....Move the skid tubes as far forward as possible. Squeeze every mm you can. And shorten the tail boom support. IMHO, I would only go to about 50% out...max (shorter is better). Just my 2 pennies.

Mike.

EDIT: Just throwing a couple pics out there showing some Skytec parts and also showing the "famous" "Bullet mod." This is my ESky Lama V4 (that was 72mhz.) with a EFlight brick (EFLH1024). It is now bound to my DX6i. It is so nice having all your models on one "great" TX.

You're saying to move the tubes/ pipes forward. I have to have some kind of tube sticking out after the rear support or the weight at the back will only be supported by the tail fin, right? Did you mean something else? The plate and supports are fixed - not moveable/ molded as one piece. I have the holes in the plate that only offer so much movement before the mounting bosses are on a big hole instead of plastic. As it is, I could only put slots toward the front instead of holes because of the pre-existing holes in the plate. If you zoom in on the first picture with the bottom of the plate and supports showing, that whole thing is one piece. You can also see the many lightening holes that are already in it. The back mounting holes are as close to the back as possible.
Shorten the tail boom support? How do I do that? Are you talking the bracket or the support rods? Why is that? Do you think the boom should be shorter?

Nice work guys! KJ your little 3s brushless rocket is en route. No one has one like yours anywhere. Memms gyro, dual 10a esc's, dual Turnigy brushless motors, new arduino coaxmixer, and of coarse 3s. And the fat 3s fit into your stock skids. I bet you blast it through the ceiling. Hehe.

Well, bigger motors (slightly), bigger ESC's, a better mixer and better gyro should make it a "brushless rocket" alright. Winds are kinda high, so, it might be a while before it can stretch its legs. I'll have to mess with it in the house and garage. Except for shortening the too long wires, the Arduino and its programming need a good write-up so it isn't too daunting.

Get some spackle KJ. You are gonna need it to patch those holes you make in the ceiling while learning it. ahahahahahahahahaha

Lee

I shortened everything I could get my hands on. The only long leads left are on the GA250 gyro. Personally on yours I would just fold them back and electrical tape or shrink wrap them. I did do some custom braided covering on a few wires I could get to.

Originally Posted by leethetreeguy

Get some spackle KJ. You are gonna need it to patch those holes you make in the ceiling while learning it. ahahahahahahahahaha

Lee

So very true! Guys just don't understand how powerful these 3s setups are. Plus, the flight times at 15+ minutes are crazy. This is much like stuffing a built 454 into a small nova.

Most people have never experienced a 10+ minute copter flight. There nerves will be shattered. There eyes will be strained. There neck might be sore. hahahahahahaha
And, he will have to re-learn to fly. At least, I did. I still remember the first time I flew a shortened flybar, and long servo horns. hahahahaha. Those were the days.
Lee

Here is the shopping list from the V tail thread. One of the items is an orange HK Spektrum compatible receiver. This makes it useable with a Lama and it needs to be used in the CX-2 build too because the original brick is no longer used. The brick can be a spare for an unmodified heli or sold in the Classifieds for those who need one. There may be things not yet on this list that are incidental like servo extension cables for a couple of bucks.

Turnigy 1811/ 2900 motors X 2
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_2900kv.html $10.41 ea. = $20.82

Tunigy 10A ESC's X 2
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html $9.24 ea = $18.48

Arduino coaxmixer w/ custom software
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-16MHz-ATM...item1e69e3f331
This is ARDUINO Pro Mini + USB Adapter. $23.99

HK GA-250 MEMS gyro
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15318 $9.99

Spektrum compatible HK receiver
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Sat_Port_.html $5.99

TOTAL of what's listed ~$70.

One thing not listed is the Microheli frame. Some may choose to stick with a stock frame. That's another $40 to $45 depending on where you get it. I don't know why, but the Lama frame is $10 more than a CX-2 frame.

KJ, I don't recommend the given Arduino board link. First, its the 5V version, I would go for the 3.3V version. Second, the USB adapter is most likely not what you want. I always understood you that you don't want to set parameters of the coaxmixer, but want to enjoy it's plug&play feature. I guess what you intended to include in the shopping list is the ISP AVR programmer called USBasp, as it is needed in any case for building the coaxmixer.

BTW, it's the OlliW (Arduino) coaxmixer LOL

Rather than try to keep up the shopping list here, please refer to the V-Tail thread or Ollie's project page:

http://www.olliw.eu/2012/coax-electr...ixer/#modtype1.

On a different note, I took the Lama outside last night. I could barely feel any air movement, but the heli felt it. It performed pretty well. It still has stock motors on it, but they didn't seem to get too hot. I know there are guys on here who like the blade stiffeners, but I ended up taking them off for now. With the elastic band I'm using, I can put the battery anywhere I'd like. I think it works well right under the brick. The weights on the shortened flybar are set for ~ 6 1/2" apart and I don't have porpoising. My remaining problem is how to attach the canopy. The bottom of the canopy cannot hang down below the skid support plate. It's sandwiched between the frame's front shelf and the support plate. The bosses/ pegs that hang down from the frame to attach the skid plate stop it from going back far enough to use the rear canopy mounting holes, even with a regular canopy instead of the short Lama 3 canopy. In order to use those anchoring holes, I will have to cut slots in the bottom of the canopy to clear the pegs. It'll take a lot of messing around to find a way to make this plate/ skids combo work properly.
Come on, isn't anybody flying out there?

Jack, you have your weights set 6 1/2" apart????? Try 5 1/2" Speaking of flying, I charged up a couple batts yesterday hoping the wind would calm. Ya,,,...right

Mike.

I got the old Xtreme canopy (4 years old) to fit by cutting a little on the bottom.

Originally Posted by Chap1012

LOL, and speaking of "WAGS", I've been messing around with different velcro combinations. If you recall, I mentioned that the receiving end (the hook part) of the "industrial" type was a bit short and somewhat more spread apart. I changed it out to a "tighter" and "longer" hooked velcro (no name) and as you can tell, I enlarged the gripping area a bit. I'll let you all know how the test flights turn out holding that Rhino 750.
Mike.

^^^^^^^^^.....Post # 10194, Page 680 for pictures.

@Jack and others with the credit card mod...
I tested out the new and improved velcro holder. I did several "touch and go's"...some a bit harder than others trying my best to dislodge the battery from the holder and the battery held tight.

The answer was steering me in the face. It's all about "surface contact" of the velcro I even have a hard time peeling the battery off..

I'll try my best to find or match the "no name" velcro that I used. It does look like ordinary modelers type velcro though.

Mike.