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Old Jan 12, 2008, 08:43 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
moving balls!

Quote:
Originally Posted by humveeflyer
John, if you haven't moved the balls in on the servo arms already, this will help a bunch on center stick at hovering.
sounds pretty funny. i think i tried that a while back and it didn't seem much differen't to me. i'll try it again.
- john
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Old Jan 12, 2008, 08:45 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
what's really funny about my flying outside today is i flew my Gaui Hurricane 200, and my HBK II and had a really hard time in the wind, then i get out my 4#3 and somehow have an easier time with the smallest heli i own. go figure????
-john
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Old Jan 12, 2008, 08:46 PM
heli addict
humveeflyer's Avatar
Ohio
Joined Nov 2003
3,665 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
sounds pretty funny. i think i tried that a while back and it didn't seem much differen't to me. i'll try it again.
- john
I think that it helped me a little. We just have to learn to use tiny stick movements. This little guy can be so quick...I just love it!
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Old Jan 12, 2008, 08:48 PM
heli addict
humveeflyer's Avatar
Ohio
Joined Nov 2003
3,665 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
what's really funny about my flying outside today is i flew my Gaui Hurricane 200, and my HBK II and had a really hard time in the wind, then i get out my 4#3 and somehow have an easier time with the smallest heli i own. go figure????
-john
That is funny. I tried it in some wind later on in the day and had a heck of a time. The wind just blows it away for me it's so light.
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Old Jan 12, 2008, 09:42 PM
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RC flight's Avatar
Mississauga Ontario Canada
Joined Jan 2006
753 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick R
Hi Jakub!,
I had the tail wag problem, i resolved it buying a digital jewelry scale (DIGIWEIGH, capacity:100grams....accuracy:0.01gram),first of all i centered the flybar rod (i have the metal one) afterwards i weighted each flybar paddle together with the flybar connector (both should be equal, otherwise put some tape on the lightest flybar until both are the same).
Once you have mounted both on the flybar rod, check if the rod has exactly the same distance on both sides.
Also check if the main blades weight the same, it is very important to get all vibrations away.
Personally, i dont think that it is a good idea filling the 4 in 1 with foam, because some electronic components get quiet warm and should cool down.
I hope this will help.

Patrick

sorry i meant to say "Tail Drift" not tail wag.

so putting some foam in the 4in1 will help keep the gyro from heating up from the other board? or should i leave it stock so the air can flow in-between the chips and cool them down?
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Old Jan 12, 2008, 10:59 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2008
14 Posts
GAH! I break my first rotorhead, take my backup rotorhead and reinforce it by filling that space with a poor man's fiberglass (epoxy +bits of felt torn off a rotary tool polishing thingy), go through another lengthy process of balancing and polishing and lubing everything, second flight, new rotorhead breaks. GAH!

No other backups, so I'm down until small.planes can send me an aluminum one, I'm done with the Walkera versions.
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Old Jan 12, 2008, 11:40 PM
Registered User
Ottawa
Joined Oct 2003
562 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsy nobby
Mine just arrived.Fair play to ya Tony,6 days from Canada to me here in the Channel Isles is damned good going!A thousand thank yous .... Gonna install it now with some silver thermal paste and hope that the new motor lasts for longer than 6 flights!

-Andy

Edit: I guess 8-10 minutes of flying and the motor does'nt smell like it's taken up cooking as a hobby and the heatsink was barely warm.Impressive stuff Mr B...I take my hat off to you. If you have'nt already done so I'd patent and copyright your heatsink and sell it to Walkera!
Thanks for the compliment.

Although the heatsink is a nice and tight fit with the motor, adding thermal paste, like you did, is a good idea to get better thermal conductivity between the motor and heatsink.

Cheers,

Tony
http://www.bitzracing.com/RC
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Old Jan 12, 2008, 11:42 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
38 Posts
Rotor head repair

I ran out of spare rotor heads so I decided to try to repair a broken one while I'm waiting for replacements.

I trimmed both posts off and wrapped a piece of copper wire around the top of the head. I used telephone wire. The wire is small enough that it does not interfere with the movement of the flybar swivel.
I then shaped the wire with fine needle node pliers and clipped it to the right length to obtain the two required bearing posts.
I then glued a small piece of insulation on each wire tip and this gave me the diameter that i need to mount the bearings.
I squeezed the wire tight around the top of the rotor head so that it would not move and added a drop of ca for good measure.

Sorry about the pictures they are not as sharp as I would have liked but this is the best I can do with my camera.

I flew the heli with this fixed rotor head and the wire has been holding its shape even though I had a few crashes.
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 12:33 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
i'm telling you guys the smallest wire tie fits the gap in the rotor head perfectly!
cut a small piece off and CA it in and voila!!
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 02:05 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
so anyone done the heat sink on the main motor. what is involved putting it on?
anyone?
-john
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 02:46 AM
I need more lipos!
West Covina, CA
Joined Dec 2007
370 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
so anyone done the heat sink on the main motor. what is involved putting it on?
anyone?
-john
Thermal paste, or silver compound. the paste used in putting the heatsink on the processor on CPU.
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 04:32 AM
Registered User
Oak Ridge, Tennessee
Joined Dec 2007
374 Posts
Hi All,

I'm just posting a few quick pics and short vid to also plug Ivan Pepe's navigation light kit....it is a nice touch to add to this tiny heli.

A bit of time to route the tail strobe wires thru the boom tube, and detailing the edges of the led boards with black paint (I should have used flat black instead of gloss, camera flash reflects) will help blend the parts in...actually looks like part of the model. Canopy is still easy to remove, nothing attached.

Also it's sporting one of Tony's heatsinks- yet another nice addition I received in the mail a couple days back. I do agree with the use of thermal grease. I haven't had any motor failures of yet, but always limited flight time to 3 to 4 minutes. I've had 2 4#3's since before Thanksgiving, thanks to a Chinese friend who tipped me off the day R/C Fever in HK started selling. (also bought 2 more since) I'd say this one (in the pics) had 3 hours plus on the original motor (which still runs fine)...but I changed to a new motor when installing the heatsink since I figured it had to be getting worn down. It was always too hot to touch after 3 or 4 min hovering, my IR thermometer said 115 to 120 degrees at the top of the case. Now 15 degrees cooler with the heatsink, after 5 or 6 minutes flight.Sorry to hear of so many with motor problems- I've flown a whole lot of time with none.

Now I will say I'd had problems with tail rotor bearings- not from crashing but dirt and grit fouling and ruining. I guess it's from my dirty concrete shop floor being in close proximity, and the oil on the bearing helps attract it. I'm waiting on some tiny props from BSD (Bob Selman) to experiment with direct drive- is anyone else doing this? I've had 5 bearings fail now- plus a groove worn/cut into the carbon fiber shaft, requiring it's replacement too.

Otherwise no real issues, wear and tear (and many a crash) has had me replace a few parts, as to be expected. I got a couple extra 4#3's for parts there at first, since no one in the USA had them yet...and parts imported individually made it cheaper that way. One became a gift for my son X-mas, his second heli. I joined this forum just to look for when parts became available here- but found an added bonus with things like Ivan's, Tony's, and all the suggestions/modifications/tips recommended over the past couple months. You can see the servo links in these photos, along with moving the RH servo to the inboard holes, etc....Gotta say the epoxy in the rotor head gap works good for me too, I lost interest in machining one myself after trying it. My thanks to all who've posted here- it's sure been of help.

My only suggestion to add is I'd like to fabricate a small bracketed aluminum strip to replace the plastic battery box...and use the really thin velcro (like on Parkzone micro Cessna batteries) to attach the battery. I've got the thick velcro handy, but the thin would be perfect, and allow other and smaller packs. My C/G now is with battery rear edge even with motor shaft, even with added weight of the heatsink and nav light board. I'll get around to it soon, I understand the velcro is sold in the wig/hairpiece industry. (BTW)The white stripes on the rotor blades do help visibility, an old tip from my penni-copter model. Did this on my Piccolo too, very visible in flight.

And speaking of weight- am I the only one to notice out of the box this thing weighs 48.53 grams...and the actual rotor span is 207 mm? Servos come in at 3.82 to 3.86, from what I've checked. I'm not nitpicking or complaining, just wondering....Also want to mention I bought a 5#6 and a 5G6 this winter, and have had much fun from them too. And a H05 glider, just out of curiousity. (not as cool as the parkzone, but worthy of mention since it's made from these heli parts series) All have been worth the money to me- lots of entertainment and enjoyment so far, with lots to come.

I seem to have a problem uploading my vid...I'll try and figure it out asap.

Shag
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Last edited by shagrug; Jan 13, 2008 at 08:49 AM.
Old Jan 13, 2008, 04:38 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
motor heatsink

Quote:
Originally Posted by psicrest
Thermal paste, or silver compound. the paste used in putting the heatsink on the processor on CPU.
do you remove the motor. what is the install like??
-john
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 04:41 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
heatsink install

Quote:
Originally Posted by shagrug
Hi All,

I'm just posting a few quick pics and short vid to also plug Ivan Pepe's navigation light kit....it is a nice touch to add to this tiny heli.

A bit of time to route the tail strobe wires thru the boom tube, and detailing the edges of the led boards with black paint (I should have used flat black instead of gloss, camera flash reflects) will help blend the parts in...actually looks like part of the model. Canopy is still easy to remove, nothing attached.

Also it's sporting one of Tony's heatsinks- yet another nice addition I received in the mail a couple days back. I do agree with the use of thermal grease. I haven't had any motor failures of yet, but always limited flight time to 3 to 4 minutes. I've had 2 4G3's since before Thanksgiving, thanks to a Chinese friend who tipped me off the day R/C Fever in HK started selling. (also bought 2 more since) I'd say this one (in the pics) had 3 hours plus on the original motor (which still runs fine)...but I changed to a new motor when installing the heatsink since I figured it had to be getting worn down. It was always too hot to touch after 3 or 4 min hovering, my IR thermometer said 115 to 120 degrees at the top of the case. Now 15 degrees cooler with the heatsink, after 5 or 6 minutes flight.Sorry to hear of so many with motor problems- I've flown a whole lot of time with none.

Now I will say I'd had problems with tail rotor bearings- not from crashing but dirt and grit fouling and ruining. I guess it's from my dirty concrete shop floor being in close proximity, and the oil on the bearing helps attract it. I'm waiting on some tiny props from BSD (Bob Selman) to experiment with direct drive- is anyone else doing this? I've had 5 bearings fail now- plus a groove worn/cut into the carbon fiber shaft, requiring it's replacement too.

Otherwise no real issues, wear and tear (and many an crash) has had me replace several parts, as to be expected. I got a couple extra 4G3's for parts there at first, since no one in the USA had them yet...and parts imported individually made it cheaper that way. One became a gift for my son X-mas, his second heli. I joined this forum just to look for when parts became available here- but found an added bonus with things like Ivan's, Tony's, and all the suggestions/modifications/tips recommended over the past couple months. You can see the servo links in these photos, along with moving the RH servo to the inboard holes, etc....Gotta say the epoxy in the rotor head gap works good for me too, I lost interest in machining one myself after trying it. My thanks to all who've posted here- it's sure been of help.

My only suggestion to add is I'd like to fabricate a small bracketed aluminum strip to replace the plastic battery box...and use the really thin velcro (like on Parkzone micro Cessna batteries) to attach the battery. I've got the thick velcro handy, but the thin would be perfect, and allow other and smaller packs. My C/G now is with battery rear edge even with motor shaft, even with added weight of the heatsink and nav light board. I'll get around to it soon, I understand the velcro is sold in the wig/hairpiece industry. (BTW)The white stripes on the rotor blades do help visibility, an old tip from my penni-copter model.

And speaking of weight- am I the only one to notice out of the box this thing weighs 48.53 grams...and the actual rotor span is 207 mm? Servos come in at 3.82 to 3.86, from what I've checked. I'm not nitpicking or complaining, just wondering....Also want to mention I bought a 5#6 and a 5G6 this winter, and have had much fun from them too. And a H05 glider, just out of curiousity. (not as cool as the parkzone, but worthy of mention since it's made from these heli parts series) All have been worth the money to me- lots of entertainment and enjoyment so far, with lots to come.

I seem to have a problem uploading my vid...I'll try and figure it out asap.

Shag
so you have the heatsink. what do i have ti do to install it?
-john.
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 05:08 AM
Registered User
Oak Ridge, Tennessee
Joined Dec 2007
374 Posts
Hi John-
Not much...canopy off...unplug motor wire at RX socket...remove two motor mount screws...motor should be free. Red/black wires where soldered at rear of motor can break off if you bend a lot, so be careful.

I used silver thermal compound inbetween motor case and heatsink (same as pc cpu), wipe off the excess if you do same. There's not much gap due to Tony's close machine work, so we are talking micro amounts compound. This stuff is messy, so try to be neat and use little (not more). You can omit it if you want.

The heatsink is a tight friction fit, it won't slide up and down on it's own. Start it on at the bottom, solder lumps at the top of the case will not likely clear. How far up the case is up to you- canopy will need trim if you go too high. Mine are only a couple mm up from the bottom edge.

Re-install the motor/sink combo, careful of wiring with sink now on....short fins on sink to rear, gap towards RX (see Tony's order page pics)....reconnect motor wire and replace screws at bottom- being sure to leave proper free play (backlash) in gear teeth. Don't get the gearing fit too tight- it would pay to study it before removal. Or use a tobacco paper as gauge.

Re-install canopy and I think you're ready, unless I've forgotten something.

Shag
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Last edited by shagrug; Jan 13, 2008 at 05:28 AM.
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