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Old Feb 10, 2010, 05:02 PM
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Hi Dave

It was only the 9" props that drove me into saturation at 18 amps. The 8" props

I also thought that a 3 blade wasn't as efficient, but then again, that is with static air and not flowing air which I am sure that there is a difference.

I guess I am going to have to fly now with the Eagle Tree installed and with the RPM meter attached to the device. I might even have to install an airspeed sensor.

That being said, the PZ 8.7 would work well it seems. The clearance is 'tight', but I could shave down the canopy (or, just ignore it).

I am slightly concerned about the motor temperature, but I would never be running at full throttle anyway, so IS that really a concern? It would also be nice to have some extra thrust just in case I needed it.

I wonder what a 9x5 or an 8x5 would be like? (Sad thing is that there are at least 2 well stocked hobby stores between my office and home).
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Old Feb 10, 2010, 11:34 PM
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The plot thickens. I got to thinking of this on my drive home tonight.

I decided to see how much thrust I got at different wattage levels.

The Parkzone 9x6 was more efficient up until full power, when the 3 blade had more power. The APC and the Seawind stock prop were about the same.

It didn't make sense when testing the 2 blade vs. the 3 blade at different wattage settings, so I did them over. Twice and got the same numbers.

However, the 3 blade just looks way too cool for a very small sacrifice in power. Assuming 100W output for normal flying, you get 30g less thrust on the 3 blade vs. the 2 blade.

The 9" prop had almost 70g more thrust for the same wattage.

My thought that is if you can swing the 9", then you get longer flight times for same battery. As well, you LOTS more power at full throttle if you need to power off the water or grass.
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Old Feb 16, 2010, 12:14 PM
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Blissfield, Michigan
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I could use some help - where does the esc plug into the reciever, what slot? Tnx in advance
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Old Feb 16, 2010, 12:24 PM
Halifax Electric Flyers Assoc
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Halifax, Canada
Joined Jan 2008
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Hi Maineiac -- I believe most receivers have throttle/ESC at ch3. Good luck.

Dave
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Old Feb 16, 2010, 01:13 PM
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Thanks, works for me just right.
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Old Feb 23, 2010, 05:05 PM
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Estevan Sk
Joined Apr 2008
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Seawind under carriage

I am putting together a Seawind with the intent to fly off grass and snow. I am wondering what the best tape would be to giver some protection to the under belly. Also since there are several different colors of duck tape available at Walmart would I be wise to stay with blue or change to some other color that would be more visable?

Thanks Don
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Old Feb 23, 2010, 08:10 PM
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Just some good-ol clear packing tape should do the job, and it is considerably lighter than duct tape as well. I've used it on various foam models and it holds up quite well to those belly landings.

I got the Seawind for Christmas from my wife and have it ready except for electronics, but the weather has just been horrid for flying here in central Pa lately. If there's not a blizzard, then it's windy and snowing. Looks like there's more on the way......
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Old Feb 23, 2010, 08:17 PM
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As curly56 suggested, clear packing tape works quite well on mine. Not only is it lighter than duct tape, it's slicker and provides much less friction drag during takeoff.
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patchman61 View Post
I am wondering what the best tape would be to giver some protection to the under belly. Thanks Don
RC Car Chassis protector is a little thicker than packing tape, but it is a little pricey. It will protect the bottom better than packing tape.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNLW1&P=7

McD
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 12:35 PM
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Rainy Western Oregon
Joined Feb 2005
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Another Seawind

HI

Well just installing radio gear this am. I spent yesterday reading through most of these posts, yes no life. Anyway after flying a friends, Gulin PBY and Donald I was hooked on water flying, never thought much of people who wanted to dunk their electronics in water.
Anyway just wanted to thank everyone who has posted info,as I used some of it:

Pinned and glued motor mount ply to foam for extra bite.

Corrosian X treatment, am a little scared to soak the reciever.

Will tape front of canopy when flying.

Maybe will sand V off floats, but will try first.

Balanced prop.

Will Cg the plane a little further back the reccomeded poiny maybe to spar?

I ordered 2 1500 3s LiPo's but may try it with one of my 2100's.

I ordered the RxR version and everything was packed well in the box, what little there is to assemble went well, except for the cowl, God I hate cowls poked a bunch of holes and only hit one wood block, followed the pin thing to. So one screw and tape it will be. I noticed some people suggested early that the foam was changed from the original Seawind. My box had a Sticker that said, molded from advaced Aerocell foam it looks like Multiplex elapor foam, but I didnt try CA on it. The foam seems like tough stuff. Anyway will try a maiden on the weekend if weather cooperates
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Last edited by Volts; Feb 24, 2010 at 12:39 PM. Reason: addition
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Old Feb 26, 2010, 12:32 PM
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An addition of something to make the water rudder work better. That to me is the most problematic part of the Seawind. A long er water rudder would be better, of course you would have to take it off for flying off land or landing on land.
Conehead
Orrin Eldred
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Old Feb 27, 2010, 09:18 PM
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Rainy Western Oregon
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207 Posts
Thanks Cone

Maybe I could fix one that would flip up, I have some plastic laminate sheet, very similar material to the stock rudder. I picked it up at the LHS, think the model railroaders use it. Well it flew today, or should I say crashed first then flew. Land flying of course for testing.

First attempt from wet grass would not ROG just pushed it's nose down. Made a couple of more attempts, you know rev up and push off etc, made it about 10'. So hand launch, I remembered several posts about a tendency of the SW to nose dive so full up and had a buddy throw it, WOW! Beutiful climb out a little left bank, climbing and accelerating, NICE!. Still slow left bank , a littel right aileron......still slow left bank but increasing..... more right aileron...........full right.....cut power into the tall grass.

Nothing brokr, I thought, check throws no ailerons, take wing off not plugged in. Must have been ground crew, ALWAYS do a preflight, OK. Anyway plugged in AOK, hand launch climbs out again, a click of right and couple of clicks down and what a sweethart, flys like its on rails, very smooth little plane. Landing, chop throttle keep descent for airspeed, a flair onto the grass strip and lands like a feather.

Got home and found the wing dowel pin had cracked loose in the crash. not completly and hard to notice, so a dab of epoxy, and will go for water test tommorow if weaher holds.
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Old Feb 27, 2010, 11:03 PM
Halifax Electric Flyers Assoc
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Halifax, Canada
Joined Jan 2008
315 Posts
Hi Volts -- glad to hear the damage was minimal!

On the Seawind ROW and ROG take-offs work best with full-up elevator. In fact in my view the stock rudder works fine too, as long as you apply up-elevator to push the rear down even while taxiing. When taking off, keep your elevator at full-up until it breaks free of the water / ground then gradually ease-off.

Best of luck on the water Sunday. Round here we have lots of the stuff but it will be under 30" of ice for a while longer.

Dave
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Old Feb 28, 2010, 12:41 PM
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Rainy Western Oregon
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207 Posts
Hutt

Thanks I will be trying off water in about an hour so we will see. Up elevator has been mentioned in several posts here on the SW. It seems there is quit a bit of downthrust occuring at full throttle, that would maybe have something to do with it sticking on the water. I will post how it goes. Of course I am takeing my little RipMax tug along just in case, hope that's not a bad omen.
I am going to throw a piece of tape on the front of the camopy for keeping water out.
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Old Feb 28, 2010, 08:31 PM
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Rainy Western Oregon
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Hi All

First water flight was a great success. Water manuvering was OK, turned better right then left but still OK. First take off I saw a little dip in the right wing when on step, so gave a little left and a little up elevator, and she was off and flying. Nothing looks better than seeing water comeing off the hull as they become airborn, so cool.
Seond flight I forgot to tape the front of the canopy, but never had a drop of water in the plane. So the set up right now is 1800mah 3s polyquest, thought my 2100's a bit nose heavey. My CG came out about midway between the reccomended and the spar.
Landing was a none event, just chop the throttle and let it descend with a little nose down attitude to maintain some airspeed, flair about a foot or so before touch down and roll out, or is that water out? This plane is a little zippy in the air as it's a fairly clean design. and has a very small wing cord. Tracks like it's on rails. Anyway I did video and will try to get it on here or U-tube, since I have never posted a video before this may take a while. Thanks for all the great info and mods, thats whats great about the Zone is flyers helping each other.
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