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Old Nov 29, 2009, 07:23 PM
Learning is worth the effort
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthbound View Post
Silicone is fine for sealing up the wing saddle and other joints, but I would not use it seal your receiver or ESC. The solvent vapor that it releases as it cures is acidic.
Good point! Furthermore, I used some clear silicone to seal each end of my ESC on my Seawind. Sounded like good advice at the time. After I dunked my Seawind and got very, very little water inside the servo, ESC, and Rx compartment, things still didn't work when I exercised them. I had noticed previously that upon abrupt temperature changes the ESC had condensation on the inside of its clear heatshrink. Not good! I suspect it's because it couldn't breath, all clogged up like that.

So, I replaced the ESC and everything works fine now. I am now using MG Silicone Conformal Coating that I purchased from a local electroncis store on the ESC. Haven't since dunked my plane to see if it works. But this stuff is what Castle uses on their ESCs when you send them in to be waterproofed.

I'm leary of Corrosion X only because none of the ESC manufacturers or suppliers recommend it. It may be great stuff, but I will stick with what Castle uses.

I wonder why ESC manufacturers don't readily offer waterproofed ESCs as a basic purchase? Gee, they might even get a few extra dollars for it.
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Old Nov 29, 2009, 07:24 PM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
Joined Sep 2005
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Conehead Quote "I found that putting red on one wing tip helped a lot, the new wing will have Red on one tip, Green on the other. Just the red helped a lot with orentatian for me."

Some folks have put a yellow stripe 1" wide across the leading edge of the wing. The real Zeros used this to help carrier spotters to determine if the wings were level on approaches. It helps to make the plane show up better when you get below the treeline on final.
McD
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 10:14 AM
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Tallahassee, Florida
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conehead View Post
Ok fellows,
I messed the wing up on my Seawind. I can buy a new one, need to fix where it bolts into the fuse, but that should be no big problem.
Now should I get a whole new Seawind, do as Fred said, his post is one of the best on modifications yet, and have a spare Seawind in case I plunk the original one into the ice or lake, depending on how cold it gets later?

I was flying my Seawind well, better than I ever expected to. I found that putting red on one wing tip helped a lot, the new wing will have Red on one tip, Green on the other. Just the red helped a lot with orentatian for me. This is the most aerobatic plane I have flown, I was impressed on how well I was able to fly it, since I am not a great aerobatic flier.
Thanks Fellows without this thread I would have never bought a Seawind to start with.
Conehead
Orrin Eldred
Honor, MI.
I appologize for having left off one of my pre-launch modifications. I did not remember that I had done this one until I recently removed my wing for access to the servo space. In addition to all the other mods I mentioned for my 2nd Seawind, I also gorilla-glued 2 carbon-fiber rods into the underside of the wing (width of rod is just less than the width of the fuselage so it does not show when mounted on the plane). I first cut a small groove in the wing parallel to the leading and trailing edges -- about an inch or so from each edge. I then gorilla glued the rods into the grooves. I did this to keep the wing from "folding" up as this happened to me on the first Seawind I had.

Fred
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 01:34 PM
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New Fairfield, CT
Joined Mar 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrinson View Post
Good point! Furthermore, I used some clear silicone to seal each end of my ESC on my Seawind. Sounded like good advice at the time. After I dunked my Seawind and got very, very little water inside the servo, ESC, and Rx compartment, things still didn't work when I exercised them. I had noticed previously that upon abrupt temperature changes the ESC had condensation on the inside of its clear heatshrink. Not good! I suspect it's because it couldn't breath, all clogged up like that.

So, I replaced the ESC and everything works fine now. I am now using MG Silicone Conformal Coating that I purchased from a local electroncis store on the ESC. Haven't since dunked my plane to see if it works. But this stuff is what Castle uses on their ESCs when you send them in to be waterproofed.

I'm leary of Corrosion X only because none of the ESC manufacturers or suppliers recommend it. It may be great stuff, but I will stick with what Castle uses.

I wonder why ESC manufacturers don't readily offer waterproofed ESCs as a basic purchase? Gee, they might even get a few extra dollars for it.
Many of us have soaked our gear in Corrosion X and not had any issues. I had one glitch with a rudder servo that stuck hard to one side when I initialized the plane one time out that I was never able to reproduce, but I swapped out the servo just in case. I am more inclined to think that this was an odd handshake glitch with my Spektrum transmitter / receiver than anything related to the servo but better safe than sorry. I get a bit of water in the plane about every time out, but never had any issues. If MG is what Castle recommends then it should be fine for the ESC, but I'd still use CX on the receiver and servo boards (not the motors!). As to the question of why they don't offer waterproof gear from the factory, the answer is there's no such thing as water proof electronics, just water resistant. I think they'd loose whatever extra they'd make on the parts pre gooped in replacing the parts that customers still managed to fry underwater. Besides, think of all the gear they get to sell twice while you learn the hard way what to use... ;-)

My two pennies
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 03:31 PM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
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I've used both CorrsionX and Conformal Coating on my ESCs. They both work as waterproofing very well. The CX remains "wet" and flexible on the componets and the CC dries to a hard varnish-like finish.

The only issue I have is that the Silicone CC has some really nasty carcinogenic warnings on the label that I have taken to heart. I wear a mask and only spray the stuff outdoors and downwind of me.

So for ease of use and my perceived health benifits, I prefer the CorrosionX.

Mike McD
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 06:21 PM
Flutter-Bys are fun
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United States, MI, Honor
Joined Dec 2005
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blueheron,
when you put the valspar on your seawind, did you use a rattle can or did you buy some in a can and use an airbrush or spray gun??

I just wondered. I am going to experiment on my damaged wing.
Conehead
Orrin Eldred
Honor, Mi.
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 08:17 AM
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Tallahassee, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conehead View Post
blueheron,
when you put the valspar on your seawind, did you use a rattle can or did you buy some in a can and use an airbrush or spray gun??

I just wondered. I am going to experiment on my damaged wing.
Conehead
Orrin Eldred
Honor, Mi.
Lightly brushed two coats with a very light sanding between each coat.

Fred
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 09:00 AM
Halifax Electric Flyers Assoc
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Halifax, Canada
Joined Jan 2008
315 Posts
Orrin -- As an alternative to Valspar I brushed-on "Future" acrylic floor coating to much the same effect. Since it's made for application with a mop it self-levels wonderfully, and has protected my Seawind's foam very well. I used a foam brush and lightly sanded between two coats.

Dave
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 10:01 AM
Flutter-Bys are fun
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United States, MI, Honor
Joined Dec 2005
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Thanks everyone. Now I know.

Ordered a new wing and Seawind. I will re-work the new Seawind with the added suggestions. I will also test the destroyed wing with paint, floor covering, valspar and see what I like the best.
Thanks again. Then some glue to hold the saddle in, reseal the wing to the fuse and install the servo, paint the new wing and coat the Seawind.
I will take the cowling off, reglue all the joints on the motor mount also.
Conehead
Orrin Eldred
Honor, MI.
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Old Dec 04, 2009, 10:20 PM
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705 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrinson View Post

I'm leary of Corrosion X only because none of the ESC manufacturers or suppliers recommend it. It may be great stuff, but I will stick with what Castle uses.

I wonder why ESC manufacturers don't readily offer waterproofed ESCs as a basic purchase? Gee, they might even get a few extra dollars for it.
It is almost impossible to waterproof the electronics. The best way is to 'pot' them, but that isn't practical. So, the best answer is to protect the electronics by allowing the water to flow by.

In my case, I used Corrosion Block (much like Corrosion X) on ESC, receiver and servos. I have absolutely drowned the plane on many occasions and have picked it out of the water, drained the water and flown right away.

Pretty amazing stuff. It just repels the water and that is exactly what you want.

Mike
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 07:52 AM
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Darien,IL,USA
Joined Jul 2000
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Corrosion Block

This is a new product to me, so I looked it up:
http://www.nocorrosion.com/how-corro...trol-works.htm
Sounds good and I like the fact that it doesn't leave a "gummy residue" unlike Corrosion X
A 12oz spray can costs $15.00 and a 6oz is $7.00

Mailing Address:

Midwest Corrosion Products
2813 193rd Street
Lansing, IL 60438
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 02:52 PM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
Joined Sep 2005
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[QUOTE=donjiskra;13752881]it doesn't leave a "gummy residue"[QUOTE]

Corrosion Block sounds like a very similar product to CorrosionX. Glad to see the 40 kV dielectric rating for electronic applications. Not sure about the gummy residue reference though. My stuff ends up with a slightly oily residue when I use the Red can CorrosionX. Do you mean the HD (Blue can) CorrosionX? The Heavy Duty version is made to leave a heavy residue for applications like car battery terminals and such.

Glad to have a second choice for protection of our electronics equipment. Is it available for retail sale or is it a mail order item?

McD
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Old Dec 07, 2009, 01:59 PM
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New Fairfield, CT
Joined Mar 2006
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Yea, "gummy residue" sounds like the blue stuff. The red pump CX just leaves an oily layer.

For you folks that have been using this stuff a while, do we need to re-apply at some point, or is it a one application and forget it kind of thing? I've not gotten much water in the plane, so I assume it depends on if it's getting a regular dunking but wanted to check with the experts :-)
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Old Dec 07, 2009, 02:07 PM
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Knoxville, TN
Joined Dec 2005
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I havent' removed my servos to re-apply, but I have re-applied CX to the Rx and ESC after a good dunking. Not sure if it's required, but it's easy to do, I have plenty, and it sure makes me feel better knowing I'm good and protected!
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Old Dec 07, 2009, 02:16 PM
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United States, TX, Kingsland
Joined Sep 2005
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I agree with Eric. It's cheap insurance and easy to apply. I'd think that after a serious dunking or every 12 months whichever come first would be a good retreatment schedule.
McD
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