Hi Mike --

I use a Turnigy 2213 20 turn on my Seawind, from Hobbyking. My guess is that it is about the same or very slightly more powerful than the stock 2830 Rimfire recommended for the plane. Works great for me with the stock 8x6 prop. I have other planes with the Towerpro 2408-21 on them and I can confirm it won't be enough.

You won't run into any wing-tip grabs on water if you keep the elevator in full-up position while on the water.

Dave

I believe this is a much better motor from HC and for the same price:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._23A_Outrunner

Or this one to stay lighter:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._19A_Outrunner

I have been flying all summer with both of them and I can tell you they can give you 250 W for the first one and 200 W for the second one with an APC SF 9x6 cut down to 8x6 , best prop to my mind.
Thoses two motors never got warm at thoses power levels.

I would recommand the first heavier motor which gives you more power and a little additionnal speed and the excess weight isn't a problem at all.

I use the cheap winforces batteries 3S-1500 25 C with only 100 g and the 3s-2450-25C because they are lighter , cheaper and give as much power as any other brands :

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/CyberPor...Q_scZ1QQ_sopZ1

I love the most this plane with the heavier motor and the heavier batteries ( 189 g) because landing speed is much higher which makes landings more beatifull to my mind. The plane has more authority in the air with more weight and aerobatics abilities are about the same.
If you want to float in the air , then the lighter motor and thoses 100 g batteries are perfect.

Didn't see the previous post that came while I was typing but glad to see that we agree on the same motor.
Still my advise is to get the heavier one

Hope this helps

PS read my post 1057 for datas about the lighter motor and it would be better to use a 40 A ESC because there is absolutely no cooling in that plane and the ESC gets hot if you keep WOT for too long . I am using the cheap 40 A supersimple from Hobby City that is just working fine.

Thanks for the info guys, will consider my options. I like ordering from Hobby City but hate the 3 weeks (my average so far) it takes to receive it. Usually doesnt matter but in this case, my plane is grounded until I get my motor. Will weigh my options.

Painted the leading edge of the wing orange, looks great on that blue.

Trying to locate Corrosion X in town at my local True Value Hardware stores. Not having much luck. Will call a couple more tomorrow. May fly without it as almost all of my flying will be from grass. I just thought it would be smart to spray the electronics prior to installation so that I will be ready if and when the chance arises to fly off water. Can always spray later but it would be more trouble.

Been practicing on Real Flight G4.5 Seawind EP each time I am at hobby shop (several times a week). I know its not the same but I hope the sim time helps a little at least. I can fly that one great. Hope I do half as well with the real thing.

Thanks again for the motor advice.

Mike

Mike, the motor from Heads Up RC will work fantastic. I have the 2830-10 on mine, which was a 1050kv motor that they have since replaced with the one you were looking at. It's very comparable to the recommended Rimfire motor, and provides great power on 3S with a 8x6, and even better with a 9x6. Be cautious with a 9x6, as hard landings can cause the 9x6 to make light cosmetic damage to the top of the wing if it makes contact. The 8x4x3 prop will likely not do very well on that motor for this airplane. I've been using, or experimenting with, a MAS 8x5x3, and while it provides great thrust, the pitch speed is no where high enough for this model. I find myself having to fly at near full throttle most of the time to keep the plane above stall speed. An 8x4x3 is likely to only be worse, although you are carrying smaller batteries than I do, so stall speed will be less, going down from a 5" pitch to a 4" pitch is likely to make it a wash. If you really want to use the 3 bladed prop, you'd need to get a hotter motor that can turn higher rpm's with a prop of that load, but it's also going to need to handle higher amps that turning a 3 bladed prop will naturally draw.

Heads Up RC is great, the prices are good, and it will be in your mailbox in 2 or 3 days. If you decide to go with that, I'd say start with the 8x6, get good with the plane, then step up to the 9x6 for greater power.

Here's a post I did several months back where I posted test data with this motor and several different props if you are interested.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=836

Mike,

I've been using this Hacker A20 series motor on my Seawind upgrade:

http://www.aero-model.com/motordetai...es=A20&style=L

It pulls more amps than the standard Rimfire, but it has lots more power. On a fresh 2200 3-cell Lipo pack it pulls almost 18 amps and measures 200 watts spinning a 9x6E APC prop. I know the Hacker is a little pricey, but you may be able to find a HK copy that would be close.

Eric is right about the fuselage clearnace though. Using the 9x6E prop has left some minior beauty marks on my Seawind.

McD

More great info, thanks guys. Looks like I will skip the 3 blade prop. I liked the thrust numbers but if I need to fly at full throttle, that's just counter productive. The Hacker looks great but is out of my price range unfortunately. If I do go with the Heads Up RC motor (which I will probably due simple because that way I can be flying by this weekend), I think I would go for the 8x4 instead of the8x6, based on their own test results posted below.

GWS EP9050: 30 ounces of thrust at 16 amps. Excellent prop for this motor.

GWS EP9050x3 3-blade: 32 ounces of thrust at 17 amps. Avoid constant wide open throttle.

GWS EP8040: 23 ounces of thrust at 10.5 amps.

GWS EP8040x3 3-blade: 24 ounces of thrust at 12 amps. Good choice for scale looks.

TP 8 x 4E: 24 oz thrust at 14 amps.

GWS HD8060: 24 ounces of thrust at 15 amps.

TP 8 x 6: 24 oz thrust at 18 amps. Exceeds recommended maximum amps.

TP 7 x 6: 19 oz thrust at 11.5 amps.

I took the blue painters masking tape off of my wing last night after painting the leading edge orange. While the orange looked great, the tape, which really is not that sticky, took off a bunch of the original blue paint from the wing. That was disappointing. I had to custom mix something fairly close to the original color with Testor's paint and then, since it want a perfect match, I had to repaint the entire blue area on the wing for it to look right. Spot painting wouldnt look right. Didnt expect that detour but no big deal.

Mike

Edit: Actually it looks like the 8x6 will be fine as long as I stick to the GWS HD props rather than TP props.

I couldn't find Corrosion X at any local store. So I ended up ordering it from the company. Well mine came from the dist. in Michigan. So I got mine, it was a bit more with shipping, yet I got lots left and I am sure that I will use it for other things. I have already used it on the boat switches which seem to always go bad. Also bulbs on the boat and the connections between the car and boat trailers.

Well I use it between the car and all the trailers that I own. Sure is better than WD-40 for that.
Actually I would use Corrosion X in my plane even though I had planned to fly from grass for a while. One of these days you will have the urge to see what it will do from water. That will do it. You will be hooked for sure.
Conehead
Orrin Eldred
Honor, Mi.

Has anyone opened up the cockpit and replaced the profile pilot/passenger with something more realistic? They make very light busts that might work. It would be a fairly easy change to add to the scale detail of this kit. Maybe add in some more cabin detail too and then close it back up. If she lives thru the maiden this weekend, I think I will do it.

Let me know how you work that out. I've actually thought of blacking out the canopy like the glow version as I think it looks better, but I couldn't work out getting the foam out without making a mess (I'd like to spray the canopy black from the inside to keep it glossy & keep the paint away from the water). If you sort that out let us know how you do it!

Originally Posted by LeftyF

Let me know how you work that out. I've actually thought of blacking out the canopy like the glow version as I think it looks better, but I couldn't work out getting the foam out without making a mess (I'd like to spray the canopy black from the inside to keep it glossy & keep the paint away from the water). If you sort that out let us know how you do it!

Blacking out a thin plastic canopy will often lead to it warping when the model is out in the sun.

Hmm, good point. The good news is you can order a new canopy for $12.00 and mine is a bit chewed up anyway so I may still try adding a proper pilot figure, as the flat fellas do look kind of cheesy. I'll see how Chadwell makes out with his...

Originally Posted by LeftyF

..... so I may still try adding a proper pilot figure, as the flat fellas do look kind of cheesy. I'll see how Chadwell makes out with his...

Assuming mine lives thru the maiden (this weekend if motor arrives and wind isnt too bad) then I will start looking for just the right figures. Am planning on 1:12th scale figures. Full scale Seawind has a 35' wingspan so this kit is between 1:10 and 1:11 scale....thought I might go for the slightly smaller 1:12 figures since there will be two of them to fit in there. Will look for some generic cockpit decals too. I am no modeler nor a painter so I am only looking for passable work. I just hate the blank gray interior and the profile figures. I like that Great Planes gave us a clear canopy though rather than simple black decals as a windscreen. I considered leaving the glue intact that holds the cockpit to the plastic canopy and just cutting thru the foam at an angle that would allow it to fit back easily (imagine the top of a carved pumpkin) but it would be much easier if I just had the full cockpit open to work on. My fear is that the thin plastic that makes up the canopy will be difficult to remove without bending or creasing when I pry it from the foam. Maybe some debonder? Hmm, will consider my options. But if this plane is as fun to fly as everyone says, this cockpit detailing might just be put off as a winter project. We will see. Anyone else detail their cockpit? Would love to see pictures if you did.

Chadwell

GREAT thread.
Read all the info I could before oredering the SW. I picked up the Seawind last thursday and flew it this last monday morning out in front of the house on the lake(Rainy Lake, MN). VERY impressed with the way this bird flies!

Taxi'd around the dock to get the feel of it and then opened the throttle a bit more and did some figure 8's out in the lake. Lake had a nice walleye chop on it so figured what the heck...a went for it!!!

I put the plane into the wind gave it full up elev, brought the throttle up slowly and the SW tracked like it was on rails! When it started to rise about 10 feet off the water, I let off the elev. a tad and it climbed like a dream. Only needed a couple clicks on the elev. to trim it out.

Have flown it a dozen times in the last 3 days and very happy with it..fly's almost like a trainer...great job on this one!

Had to add that I've been flying r/c since 88.

Here is mine :

Seawind EP at the lake (3 min 51 sec)

Great Video! Kudos to Riki for keeping up with the plane. Gotta love that Seawind.
McD