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Old Sep 01, 2009, 11:55 AM
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Medvidek's Avatar
Prague, Czech Republic
Joined Mar 2009
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Eric,
please post info about the motor and prop you have installed on your SW. I like 3 blade prop and doing some searching for the best equipment. Sorry if you already post this info.
Thanks
Medvidek
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Old Sep 01, 2009, 01:28 PM
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EricJ320's Avatar
Knoxville, TN
Joined Dec 2005
1,502 Posts
Danny,
Thanks for the comments and ideas. It only adds 3.3 oz, and I plan to use 1800mah packs instead of 2200's I normally use in the water. That will get me at least some of the weight back. It may not have the great power that I am used to on the water, but it will at least get me flying it more. At probably only 2 oz. net gain, it still should do pretty good, with pretty close to 1:1 thrust to weight ratio. As for the fuel tube tip, it doesn't touch the foam anywhere, so that shouldn't be an issue. I might try to put some on the nose part though, to help keep it from marring the nose, and to keep it in place. And I might put the rubber band through it to keep it from digging into the foam. So thanks again for the tip!

Medvidek,
I used a Heads Up RC 2830-10, which they now call the 2830-11, and is 1150kv instead of 1050kv. But it should be at least close to the same data, maybe a little higher amps and thrust for the same props I listed in the link below.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=836

When I tested this Master Airscrew 8x5x3, I got thrust numbers near those that I got with a 2 bladed 8x6 slow fly prop, and the amp draw is somewhere near 3-5 amps less. So about 27 oz. of thrust, and 15 amps on the 2830-10. Just shows how much more amp draw a slow fly prop draws over a regular prop.

Hope that helps,
Eric
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 02:19 AM
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Medvidek's Avatar
Prague, Czech Republic
Joined Mar 2009
26 Posts
Thanks Eric,
Unfortunatelly Head Up does not ship internationally so I will turn to Turnigy motor and ESC.
Medvidek
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Old Sep 04, 2009, 11:08 AM
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Joined Sep 2008
705 Posts
I made some changes.

First, I cut down the wing ends as described earlier on. Now, I'm not sure it was the best idea. If it is the least bit windy and your are trying to taxi in, it is much easier to have the leeward wing dig in at slow speeds. In fact, it did managed to flip the little guy. So, then I had to go into full recovery mode and get the boat. Argh.

I never really did have a problem with the wing tips digging in on take off. I also figured that the water rudder works fine as long as you don't use too much throttle.

Running with the recommended rimfire motor, I find that I am getting about 13 to 15 minutes with a 1000mAH S3 battery. But, I am not doing an significant 3D as I am just learning.

I punched 2 drain holes. One in front of and one behind the bulkhead that the wing mounts to. That really helped to get rid of any water. Now, I don't have to tape down everything. Using Corrosion Block ensure that I don't have any water issue with the electronics. Make sure that you punch the hole from the front of the bulkhead to diagonally such that the exit is in the middle of the step. Works very well!!!

I will order the ESC that has the smart monitoring on it Turnigy Sentry 25A. Just handy, but at the moment, I have a little LED voltage monitor light installed in the cockpit (I had to pull out the styrofoam first). Lipo Voltage Guard . Maybe I should have gone to the audible one. The LED is pretty bright and if the cockpit is fogged it does look pretty cool if in alarm mode.

Nice to have some great weather and flat water here at the cottage.
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 09:48 AM
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Joined Sep 2008
705 Posts
Time for a new one....

Excellent flight morning here at the cottage. Water was glass. No boats and just some Geese that I was chasing around.

Iíve got this bird almost figured out. Inverted. Inside loops, outside loops, snap rolls (not too snappy).

About 8 minutes in a 12 minute flight, I was doing an outside loop and held it just a second too long. I had planned to do a 180 on the way down and then pull out. I forgot to do the 180. Ouch.

Both pilots didnít make it. Although you can see they must have tried to claw their way out through the canopy.

I had to get in the rescue vehicle (17ft Scott Canoe) and paddle out to the crash site. After pulling the mess of spaghetti out of the water, I made the trip in. All the observers watching from the dock. They knew it wasnít going to be pretty.


All the electronics survived other than the rudder servo which I will replace. I had used Corrosion Block on everything and that really helped. All I did was shake out the water from the ESC and receiver and, like a bad science project, it all responded.

Then again, maybe with a few Popsicle sticks and some CA, I might be able to make it flyable.
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 01:39 PM
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Medvidek's Avatar
Prague, Czech Republic
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by va3mw

I punched 2 drain holes. One in front of and one behind the bulkhead that the wing mounts to. That really helped to get rid of any water. Now, I don't have to tape down everything. Using Corrosion Block ensure that I don't have any water issue with the electronics. Make sure that you punch the hole from the front of the bulkhead to diagonally such that the exit is in the middle of the step. Works very well!!!
Would be so kind and post photo. Thanks. Medvidek
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 01:47 PM
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I can't right now as the bird is in pieces. See the above picture.

Look in from below the cockpit. Take a 1/8" screwdriver and just push at about a 45 degree from the base of the bulkhead where the wing mounts and angle until the screw driver comes out the back. Your done!

Thing of it this way. You are a water droplet and you want to exit the plane!
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 01:56 PM
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Madison, WI
Joined Feb 2004
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va3mw,
Duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude! Ouch! Good luck on the repair. Myself, I'd buy a new one.

Attached are a few photos of my Mariner that saw its fate a few weeks ago. The wings folded 150' up. Straight down, nose first she went. 8 years and over 200 flights. I can't complain I had lots of fun with that plane.
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 04:14 PM
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Darien,IL,USA
Joined Jul 2000
1,570 Posts
Enlarged water rudder for the EP Seawind

I tested this modification today and am happy to report that up elevator is not needed for water taxi and works very well for slow speed taxing, which I found that the stock water rudder was ineffective unless full up elevator and power was applied to get the tail down into the water.

It is made out of 1/8" (3mm) plastic and simpily "GOOPED" over the existing water rudder. I was pleased how well it worked.
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 07:45 PM
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LeftyF's Avatar
New Fairfield, CT
Joined Mar 2006
488 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by va3mw
Excellent flight morning here at the cottage. Water was glass. No boats and just some Geese that I was chasing around.

Iíve got this bird almost figured out. Inverted. Inside loops, outside loops, snap rolls (not too snappy).

About 8 minutes in a 12 minute flight, I was doing an outside loop and held it just a second too long. I had planned to do a 180 on the way down and then pull out. I forgot to do the 180. Ouch.

Both pilots didnít make it. Although you can see they must have tried to claw their way out through the canopy.

I had to get in the rescue vehicle (17ft Scott Canoe) and paddle out to the crash site. After pulling the mess of spaghetti out of the water, I made the trip in. All the observers watching from the dock. They knew it wasnít going to be pretty.


All the electronics survived other than the rudder servo which I will replace. I had used Corrosion Block on everything and that really helped. All I did was shake out the water from the ESC and receiver and, like a bad science project, it all responded.

Then again, maybe with a few Popsicle sticks and some CA, I might be able to make it flyable.
I'd try to put it back together. Epoxy or hot glue and some wooden dowels and toothpicks will do wonders with foam. It's one of the reasons we like the foamies - they can take an amazing amount of abuse and go back together nearly the same as they started. If it looks good 10' away it looks fine in the air. If you decide it's too far gone you can get a new fuse and tail for it from Tower Hobbies for around $50.00 (ask me how I know! )

Good luck
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 08:32 PM
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Burlington, NJ USA
Joined Apr 2001
426 Posts
Just flew mine for the first time today at a full scale boat cove raft-up...wow, what a great little plane! Flew so well, I'm now kicking myself for buying a gas Neptune. Everyone wanted to know where to get one. I did several mods to mine before I even flew it, including:

-Reinforce wing holddown and motor mount with toothpicks and Gorilla Glue
-Paint all wood with Minwax WBPC
-Spayed RX with Boeshield and wrapped in boat shrink wrap tape
-siliconed the ends of ESC/coated connectors in dielectric grease
-mounted esc up on a foam block
-white electric taped all seems/hatch for/aft seems

This was the RX-R version, made of better foam and with the radio gear. I plugged in my battery for the first time on the work bench and you know what happened? Poof, magic smoke. Everything was hooked up correctly. What a bunch of BS, I had nothing hooked up wrong. So I threw in an Eflite 40A esc, and everything is working well. People say the rudder doesn't do anything out of the water, they're kind of right, except when you max out the travel it does nice knife edge. I'm thinking some positive expo may help. Other than that, this thing is perfect, well worth every penny. And the new version is made of Z foam!
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 09:24 PM
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Joined Sep 2008
705 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeftyF
I'd try to put it back together. Epoxy or hot glue and some wooden dowels and toothpicks will do wonders with foam. It's one of the reasons we like the foamies - they can take an amazing amount of abuse and go back together nearly the same as they started. If it looks good 10' away it looks fine in the air. If you decide it's too far gone you can get a new fuse and tail for it from Tower Hobbies for around $50.00 (ask me how I know! )

Good luck
Actually, it is all back together. It looks like Franken-wind now. The hull is fine. The cockpit looks like it was hit by a cruise missal. The cowling is a bit of a mess, but we really don't need that fly anyway.

I will get some pictures up tomorrow. I hope to get flying in the morning. I just have to pull out the servo for the elevator that died and do some corrosion block on it.
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Old Sep 06, 2009, 10:00 AM
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va3mw's Avatar
Joined Sep 2008
705 Posts
Wow, it flies!

Amazing stuff, this CA for styrafoam. I've had 1 flight on it.

I didn't bend the wires to the ailerons, but you can see in the attached photo why you need to.

I glued the canopy back together with CA and clear tape.

One tough bird.
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Old Sep 06, 2009, 03:09 PM
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United States, TX, Kingsland
Joined Sep 2005
5,162 Posts
So, it was only a "Flesh Wound" after all.

I've got a spare motor cowl if you want it. PM your shipping address.

McD
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Old Sep 06, 2009, 03:47 PM
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New Fairfield, CT
Joined Mar 2006
488 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by va3mw
Amazing stuff, this CA for styrafoam. I've had 1 flight on it.

I didn't bend the wires to the ailerons, but you can see in the attached photo why you need to.

I glued the canopy back together with CA and clear tape.

One tough bird.
That doesn't look bad at all. I've heard folks have used white spackle to fill in cracks, then sand and paint. For the aileron wires I put the standoffs for the ez connectors on the other side of the horns so they lined up. That's been working nicely and doesn't require going around corners. If it makes you feel better here's what I did to my first fuse crashing into the ice last winter:



I used packing tape and white stick on Monocote to patch it up until my second fuse came in. FYI - this color scheme is very hard to see against snow!
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