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Old Sep 01, 2007, 06:54 AM
tic
thunderscreech
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New Cumberland, PA. US
Joined Dec 2000
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O.K. I'll buy the plane and all the gear... You come over and build it here and if you can do it in less than one hour you get to keep it.. If not, I keep it... Challenge accepted
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 09:51 AM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
14,418 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tic
O.K. I'll buy the plane and all the gear... You come over and build it here and if you can do it in less than one hour you get to keep it.. If not, I keep it... Challenge accepted
Send me an airline ticket or get someone to donate one and I am there...
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Old Sep 01, 2007, 05:29 PM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
Joined Oct 2004
2,958 Posts
I'm Pretty sure I could do this one in an hour. It's pretty simple build especially if you do not modify anything on it like I did.
Or course, this would depend on whether or not there were any difficulty's during the construction phase such as missing or miss aligned parts.

Kinda reminds me when we use to buy the GWS Pico Sticks and the GWS flight pack with the Ni Cad battery. I could open the kit and have it completely assembled, Ready to fly, before the battery was fully charged (about 15 minutes).
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Old Sep 02, 2007, 03:24 AM
Registered User
Tomas Dunker's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Mar 2006
148 Posts
Hello!

I've just bought Seawind EP.

Problem:
#1: The wing mounting screw is full of epoxy. Se attached file...
#2: I don't dare to tighten it without destroy the wing bolt plate.
#3: I can't get it out of the wing! Mabe if I use violence!?

Questions:
#4: How can this happen when they assemble the ARF-kit in the factory?
#5: How do I solve the problem? I want to fly Seawind before the lakes is frozen here in Sweden.
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Old Sep 02, 2007, 05:52 AM
It's a good day to fly.
Ithaca, NY
Joined May 2004
538 Posts
Just got mine. What a nice looking little plane. Using Suggested motor.

Has anyone flown this in KE yet? It's gotta do it will all that side. Would look great just above the water.
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Old Sep 02, 2007, 06:25 AM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
Joined Sep 2005
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Tomas, can you use your Dremel Tool with a cutoff disk to clean up the end of the screw? You'll have to be careful not to get the screw too hot or it will melt the wing foam, so work slowly till you get enough epoxy removed so you can remove the screw from the wing. You may get it clean enough to use it.
Mike McD
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Old Sep 02, 2007, 08:07 AM
tic
thunderscreech
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New Cumberland, PA. US
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or a paper towel soaked in acetone?.. Careful not to get any on the foam though!
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Old Sep 02, 2007, 08:48 AM
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peterv's Avatar
USA, IL, Barrington
Joined Feb 2001
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Tom, try a wire cutter along the thread indentations. Epoxy should just crack off when you squeeze.

Pete
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Old Sep 02, 2007, 11:32 AM
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Tomas Dunker's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Mar 2006
148 Posts
Thanks for recived tip-offs from you all!
The screw is free from epoxy and I can go on with the building!
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Old Sep 02, 2007, 12:05 PM
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USA, IL, Barrington
Joined Feb 2001
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Good luck Tom! I still have to buy one.

Pete
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Old Sep 03, 2007, 09:54 AM
Registered User
Tomas Dunker's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Mar 2006
148 Posts
Some tips if you build the Seawind EP:

Bend down the aileron servo wires so they don't touch the wing bolt plate.

Mount the wing and check with a small mirror so the aileron servo wires can move freely.
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Old Sep 03, 2007, 03:35 PM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomas Dunker
Some tips if you build the Seawind EP:

Bend down the aileron servo wires so they don't touch the wing bolt plate.
This problem and solution is mentioned in the first post in this thread....
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Old Sep 03, 2007, 08:09 PM
Plane on the Brain
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Joined Apr 2005
839 Posts
or just mount the quick connects upside down and make the screws taught where you want them with small pliers. take the horn back off the servo and screw on tight.
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 01:26 AM
Gravity brings me down
Earthbound's Avatar
Seattle, WA
Joined Sep 2003
1,232 Posts
Lots of ROG flights today. Using TP1320PL batteries all the way forward still needed about 1/2 oz of lead in nose to achieve recommended CG. Then realized factory CG is ultra conservative and can be shifted rearward. I think the limiting factor on rear CG limit will be just keeping enough forward of the step for clean ROW operation. I suspect the 1/2 oz of lead will be coming out and the pack will get moved around a bit. In extended ROG flight (lots of touch and goes) I was getting 19-21 minutes of flight before LVC.

Motor: recommended Rimfire 28-30-950
ESC: Phoenix-25
Servos: 3114 for R/E, 3110 for A
Misc: Hayes 18" base loaded antenna
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 07:03 AM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
Joined Sep 2005
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I've got mine balanced on the spar. Only downside is that inverted elevator throw should be limited to prevent snapping out of outside loops. The high thrust line already adds "down" elevator and too much more actual down elevator will cause the snap at slow speeds or when adding throttle and down at the same time. The good news is that inverted snaps and spins are a thing of beauty and recovery is as fast as releasing the sticks. Try setting your down elevator end point at 60% and your up elevator end point at 100%.
Mike McD
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