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Old Aug 24, 2012, 08:49 AM
Registered User
va3mw's Avatar
Joined Sep 2008
700 Posts
Rxr esc

Does anyone know how to reprogram the ESC on the RxR model?

The brake is on on mine, and I want to turn it off.

Mike

Never mind.. i found it http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpmm1...anual-v1_2.pdf
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 07:57 AM
raz
Sportin my new 'do'
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USA, CA, Eureka
Joined Dec 2004
6,234 Posts
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Originally Posted by va3mw View Post
What auto bailer??

If you nose dive, the cockpit floods in less then 1 second just due to the shear force of the impact. No auto bailer is going to keep your cockpit dry. Impossible.

As for draining the water that WILL get in no matter what, just push a 1/8" hole in laterally from the step into the cockpit. Water will drain out as you fly.


A hole punched in the step won't help drain water out from a nose dive either, nothing will, I was taking about small amounts getting in and building up. Besides, having a hole will let water in too but an aurto-bailer won't.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:09 PM
Barnwell, SC
Barnwell, SC
Joined Sep 2004
821 Posts
Here is a video from our last weekend float fly. We had 5 Seawinds out of 13 pilots. We put all five in the air together at the beginning of this video.

ORCC 8/2012 float fly vid#2 (8 min 48 sec)
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 10:53 PM
Just one more landing, okay?
chaz4jc's Avatar
United States, UT, Hooper
Joined Jun 2012
34 Posts
Great video! I haven't put the floats on my Carbon Cub yet (I just got the replacement brick installed last weekend- hope it fixes things!) I finished my Seawind last week, but haven't got it wet yet. I think a trip to the lake is in order this weekend if it will just quit with the thunderstorms already! What was the 3D flyer in the video?
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 12:26 AM
raz
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Cool video hfenn, thanks for posting it.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 04:27 PM
Barnwell, SC
Barnwell, SC
Joined Sep 2004
821 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by chaz4jc View Post
Great video! I haven't put the floats on my Carbon Cub yet (I just got the replacement brick installed last weekend- hope it fixes things!) I finished my Seawind last week, but haven't got it wet yet. I think a trip to the lake is in order this weekend if it will just quit with the thunderstorms already! What was the 3D flyer in the video?
That was the Capricorn, aka Flying W. Search for it on Wattflyer.

Thanks for watching!
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 04:53 PM
NY Freedom Fighter
BatterysIncluded's Avatar
Joined Feb 2007
1,503 Posts
Here is a shot of this beautiful model from last weekends trip to the lake house. I have not experienced any of the difficulties expressed by others regarding takeoffs and landings. Applying gradual throttle and up elevator results in a nice smooth scale-like takeoff. This is pretty much stock except for the motor which is a Firepower 400 2830-11 using the stock prop and a 3s 1500 Mah battery. I'm very happy with how well it flies.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 05:56 PM
Arc, spark and smoke...
desmobob's Avatar
upstate NY; Lake George region
Joined Mar 2006
615 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BatterysIncluded View Post
Here is a shot of this beautiful model from last weekends trip to the lake house.

Beautiful photo of a fun model!

Good flying,
desmobob
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 07:38 PM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
14,407 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BatterysIncluded View Post
Here is a shot of this beautiful model from last weekends trip to the lake house. I have not experienced any of the difficulties expressed by others regarding takeoffs and landings. Applying gradual throttle and up elevator results in a nice smooth scale-like takeoff. This is pretty much stock except for the motor which is a Firepower 400 2830-11 using the stock prop and a 3s 1500 Mah battery. I'm very happy with how well it flies.
Making the upthrust mod and the shortened tip float mod will get you nice smooth scale takeoffs in larger ripples/small waves as well as in calmer conditions without having to hold full up elevator throughout the takeoff run. A more pleasant flying expereince in my book.

A properly designed and rigged seaplane model should not require full up throughout the takeoff run to get off the water. A high thrust line model typically does require a lot of up at the initial power up to prevent any potiential submarining, but once it is moving enough to get air moving over the wing and stab, it should NOT require full up any more.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 06:16 AM
Registered User
Springfield, VA
Joined Feb 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas B View Post
Making the upthrust mod and the shortened tip float mod will get you nice smooth scale takeoffs in larger ripples/small waves as well as in calmer conditions without having to hold full up elevator throughout the takeoff run. A more pleasant flying expereince in my book.

A properly designed and rigged seaplane model should not require full up throughout the takeoff run to get off the water.
Just curious, what leads you to assume he was applying full up elevator? His post states "applying gradual throttle and up elevator" which could be read to mean applying gradual elevator (as in to just break it off the surface), in my experience not an unusual requirement at all for seaplanes (using some up elevator)...Pete M
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 02:16 PM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
14,407 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmisuinas View Post
Just curious, what leads you to assume he was applying full up elevator? His post states "applying gradual throttle and up elevator" which could be read to mean applying gradual elevator (as in to just break it off the surface), in my experience not an unusual requirement at all for seaplanes (using some up elevator)...Pete M
I did read that into his post, but a number of people have reported their technique is to hold full up during the full takeoff run. I had to do that before my thrust line mod and tip float mod on my Seawind.

The rates one sets up the model with will certainly vary from person to person, so the amount of up elevator will vary from model to model as I doubt all custmers will use the exact control surface deflection suggested in the Seawind manual.

Batteriesincluded, my apologies if I assumed too much.

However, I stand by what I said in the previous post. Some back pressure through a water takeoff is normal. Having to hold full up is not normal and a number of people have reported that they do so with the Seawind.

The classic Ken Willard Seamaster is a good case in point. It requires some moderate additional up during the early takeoff run due to the high thrust line. Once it is moving over the water with some speed, it no longer requires but a trace of up elevator for the takeoff run. Same for my OD Skimmer park flying boat.

I fly the 1.8m Icon and the 1.09m Icon regularly and they require some up at first, but very little once on step and moving with some air over the controls. They do have a lower thrust line than the Seawind.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 01:51 PM
raz
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USA, CA, Eureka
Joined Dec 2004
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HELP! I have read in here about changing the thrust angle of the motor but I'm confused which way it should go. I tried looking for it but there is a lot of mention of it but all it says is angle it up. Are you talking about the prop end aiming up or the tail end? Thanks.


Never mind, I found it.
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Last edited by raz; Sep 28, 2012 at 03:02 PM.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 03:52 PM
raz
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USA, CA, Eureka
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I am having a hard time understanding the thrust angle mod on this plane by people here. Everyone says to angle the motor so the front of the prop is aiming up yet on other sea planes with a rear mounted motor (tractor) they are angled down. My Polaris is a perfect example, the motor mount is a tractor (puller) and has down angle built into it, not up. We are having to hold a lot of up elevator to keep the nose up so wouldn't angling the motor more downward help push the tail down and nose up, like we want? Can someone explain this?
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 03:00 AM
Scale Foam Flyer
Cubcrazy's Avatar
United States, AR, Cabot
Joined Oct 2007
2,765 Posts
Foam Finish Question

I used to have this Seawind EP and I sold it. I am thinking about getting one again. I only ever flew mine from grass. (Eflite Park 450, 30 amp ESC, 1800 mAh 20C 3s pack, I tried several different props, and it was a decent flying plane) My question is: Is the entire plane painted white with blue trim and then decals? I seem to remember that the entire plane had a finish on it, and it was not bare foam. If I got another one, (and it is painted) I would remove the stock paint from it. I removed all the thick heavy paint from my Flyzone Super Cub and it made a big improvement in flight performance.

-Cub
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 03:07 AM
Scale Foam Flyer
Cubcrazy's Avatar
United States, AR, Cabot
Joined Oct 2007
2,765 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by raz View Post
I am having a hard time understanding the thrust angle mod on this plane by people here. Everyone says to angle the motor so the front of the prop is aiming up yet on other sea planes with a rear mounted motor (tractor) they are angled down. My Polaris is a perfect example, the motor mount is a tractor (puller) and has down angle built into it, not up. We are having to hold a lot of up elevator to keep the nose up so wouldn't angling the motor more downward help push the tail down and nose up, like we want? Can someone explain this?
The problem with this motor configuration is not so much the thrust angle, as it is the thrust line. Even the full scale Seawind had pitch issues related to thrustline. I found that making only slow throttle changes, and being ready to compensate on elevator then relax elevator appropriately was the the best way to combat it. The thrust line as it relates to the lifting surface on this design makes pitch vulnarable to thrust change. Being that the thrust source is physically connected to the tail end of the aircraft doesnt help either. It sure is a good looking bird though.

-Cub
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