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Old Jan 22, 2012, 12:46 PM
Fly now crash later
davecrash's Avatar
Canada, ON, Newmarket
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob93447 View Post
What motor/battery/prop combo are you using and how much power are you getting? Looking forward to videos.
I forget which motor it is, I got it at HK. It's an APS 7x5 prop, 2200 mah LiPo and I'm getting around 250 watts. Don't remember which ESC it is, I cut the shrink wrap off and coated it in liquid tape. It wasn't enough on the stock setup for me. I'm running everything from he same LiPo. I also have a Skylark OSD in it. This is only a temporary FPV platform until I get the Icon A5 I ordered, I really need something bigger.
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 09:38 PM
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Joined Jun 2005
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Additional Wingtip Mod

Here is a novel approach to modifying the wingtips that according to the writer and accompanying video show that wing dragging on takeoff and landing on water is greatly reduced.

http://baronshobbies.com/2008/07/gre...d-mini-review/
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 12:42 PM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stvclif1 View Post
Here is a novel approach to modifying the wingtips that according to the writer and accompanying video show that wing dragging on takeoff and landing on water is greatly reduced.

http://baronshobbies.com/2008/07/gre...d-mini-review/
That is an interesting mod. I do think that the other option discussed lots of times in this thread is better, though. Bevelling the entire tip float at a slight up angle to the front and shortening the tip float a little would likely do better job in moderate wave conditions than the "step" mod shown in the link.

Attached is a picture of my Seawind with the angled and shortened tip float modification, touching the right wingtip briefly in a crosswind landing, before the hull touches. The new angle on the tip float shows clearly. Note how cleanly the tip skims the water surface. There is no directional change caused by the tip skimming in the water like that. The other shot shows how much wave action the modified tip can handle.....I tend to stop if the waves get any larger than the second picture. The original tip design was useless in those wave conditions.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 02:49 PM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
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Thomas, about how much material did you remove from the front of the tip to create your angle? 1/4" or more?

McD
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 08:54 PM
Electric Coolhunter
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United States, TX, Fort Worth
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Originally Posted by kingsflyer View Post
Thomas, about how much material did you remove from the front of the tip to create your angle? 1/4" or more?

McD
Going from memory here, but I am pretty sure that I removed about 1/8"-3/16" from the bottom of the tip float at the rear of the tip float and something like 3/8" at the front, just before it really starts curving up into the wing LE.Anything in that neighborhood ought to work decently.
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 04:09 PM
We shall serve the Lord
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Thanks for the help Thomas. Now where did I put that razor blade?
McD
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Canada, BC, Squamish
Joined Jul 2002
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New nose

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grejen View Post
Sure wish they sold the plastic parts separately. Attempting to make a new nose...
Paper/glue or Glass over my plug was not working well so I used this repair as an excuse to finally build a small vacuum former.

The first pull is not good. Gotta figure out how to control the webbing.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:33 AM
IAMCANADIAN
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Canada, BC, Squamish
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more vac forming nose

Two more tries to block my plug up but I still have webbing. The first (left) one fits the best. The 2nd (middle) has the least webbing but is flared at the bottom due to my blocking. All 3 look better than the taped up original does now .
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Try making a plate to hold the plastic that has a hole in in about 1" bigger all around that your pattern. Attach the sheet of plastic around the outer edges of the plate/frame and not next to the smaller hole.

This does lead to thinner parts, but the smaller hole leads to less webbing.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Thomas B View Post
Try making a plate to hold the plastic that has a hole in in about 1" bigger all around that your pattern. Attach the sheet of plastic around the outer edges of the plate/frame and not next to the smaller hole.

This does lead to thinner parts, but the smaller hole leads to less webbing.
hmm.. do you mean the plate goes above the plastic so it pulls through the hole to form the part? I'll have to try that.

For now I've filled and sanded out the webs on the first piece just to fly the plane. Got out with it today and it flies as great as ever. Ran through 2 batteries. Four beautiful landings. A flying buddy built an Ultra Micro version which flies amazingly similar.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Grejen View Post
hmm.. do you mean the plate goes above the plastic so it pulls through the hole to form the part? I'll have to try that.

For now I've filled and sanded out the webs on the first piece just to fly the plane. Got out with it today and it flies as great as ever. Ran through 2 batteries. Four beautiful landings. A flying buddy built an Ultra Micro version which flies amazingly similar.
Yep, the plate goes above the plastic. A standard technique for reducing or eliminating webbing on a deeply drawn vac form part. I was vac forming some parts at work just the other day and had to do that very thing. (I work as a model engineer/model builder at a large aerospace company)
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 12:20 PM
IAMCANADIAN
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Originally Posted by Thomas B View Post
Yep, the plate goes above the plastic. A standard technique for reducing or eliminating webbing on a deeply drawn vac form part. I was vac forming some parts at work just the other day and had to do that very thing. (I work as a model engineer/model builder at a large aerospace company)
Will try it for sure. Gotta get more plastic and LHS collects nearly $3.00 a sheet with tax.

You have the dream job of many of us here I'm sure. Can you show us any of your work?
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 12:46 PM
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Joined Mar 2010
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Salt Water Issues

Hello all,
Have been flying my seawind off of salt water for 1 season. I knew from the beginning the salt water was going to be hard on the metal parts. I kept lube on the hinges and aileron horn wires. Even lubed the rudder and elevator control wires.

I noticed lots of rust on the rudder control wire, it was wasted away by 50%. I used a 36" (.032") Metal Cable Gold-N-Rod Push Rod System from Sullivan for the rudder and it works well. I replaced the inner and outer tube with this system. It is brass coated stainless wire so it should not rust. It is much too flexible to use for the elevator. Any idea's on something stainless I can use here? The control wires for the ailerons to the servos were bad also and had to be replaced. I really like this plane and want to keep it flying.
Thanks,
Louie
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
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Salt water issues

How are the electronics holding up?

You might consider carbon fiber rod for some of the linkages. You'll need to customize the end fittings but they should hold up better than brass or stainless. I even saw one note from a guy who claimed you could bend it with a heat gun. Whatever your solution, keep us posted. I'm interested in flying off salt water but have not done so because of the corrosion issues.

Bob
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 04:29 PM
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The ESC and motor are doing fine. Sealed the ends of the esc with silicone caulk. I oil the motor bearings a couple times a season, and coat the housing with marine crc. I had some salt water get into the servos when the canopy blew off (always need tape on the front). I took them apart right away and gave them crc treatment, held up for the rest of last season. Just replaced all 3 servo's with HXT 900's. They work better then the original PNP servo's that came with it. I sealed all the seams on the servos with thick ca.
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