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Old Aug 23, 2010, 12:07 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
588 Posts
Motor separation

Chalk up yet another victim of in-flight motor separation. Mine decided to leave its mount; I was very lucky. I had not put heat shrink tubing on the motor wires; two of the three detached as it spun into the lake. The motor mount is obviously one of the weak links on the little Seawind. My SW has never been severely overpowered; max input has been about 210 watts. Has anyone come up with a better attachment method than the toothpick through the firewall technique that has been referenced in this thread?
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 12:22 PM
Halifax Electric Flyers Assoc
dghutt's Avatar
Halifax, Canada
Joined Jan 2008
315 Posts
Hi Bob, sorry to hear that. To be clear, are you saying yours failed even though you had reinforced the mount with toothpicks? That's what I did and have two seasons in so far without separation, but I guess I want to know if I should be worried...

Dave
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 02:04 PM
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Madison, WI
Joined Feb 2004
867 Posts
Alex Blais,
Awesome night video there Alex! I love the way you installed those lights. Man your SW really gets up! What are you using for motor, battery and ESC?
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 02:10 PM
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USA, IL, Deerfield
Joined Jan 2004
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Wing tip mod: which is best?

Thin strips of plastic angled backwards on tips, or trimming 3/8 front And 1/8 back (or Vice versa on fractions. I see conflicting messages on front/ back)
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 06:50 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
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dghutt,

No, my motor mount separation was from a plane that had had nothing done to reinforce the motor mount. Since it is rebuildable, I am looking for the best technique to reinforce my motor mount. This is my third season with the airplane but it has few hours on it; fewer than 25 total flights. A friend up here has one with over 100 flights and 500 takeoffs and landings with no problems. I just happened to get the one with no glue.

Bob
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Old Aug 26, 2010, 12:44 AM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norb View Post
Wing tip mod: which is best?

Thin strips of plastic angled backwards on tips, or trimming 3/8 front And 1/8 back (or Vice versa on fractions. I see conflicting messages on front/ back)
Mine works well without the plastic, with the front of the tip float trimmed about 3/8" and the rear trimmed about 1/8", leaving the bottom flat.

The objective is to have the bottom surface of the tip float flat and angled up at the front and down at the back so that it skips off the surface of the water instead of digging in.
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Old Aug 26, 2010, 11:48 AM
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Thanks for your input. I'll just trim the wing tips as you did.

Did you extend (downward) the height of the rudder, or do you just taxi with up elevator for turns?
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Last edited by Norb; Sep 20, 2010 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Sp
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Old Aug 26, 2010, 07:27 PM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norb View Post
Thanks for your input. I'll just rim the wing tips as you did.

Did you extend (downward) the height of the rudder, or do you just taxi with up elevator for turns?
Made no changes to the rudder. I have found it taxis fine at low speed with no elevator, but with the high thrust line, even after adjusting the thrust line for more up thrust on my model, it needs some elevator at high power settings, until it is moving at flying speeds.
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Old Aug 26, 2010, 10:06 PM
Montreal, Canada
Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Mar 2010
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Fast Freddy,

I've got an AXI 2212/12 Gold spinning a 7 x 4 APC.
It's pulling about 25 amps static.
I put my 30 amp esc behind the motor so that it get lots of airflow.
I also put some small heat sinks on both sides of it.
I just re-routed 2 x 14AWG wires from the battery to the top.
I always run it with a 2200Mha 3S Zippy.

My plane tipped the scale at 29.4 ounces. It flies fast but still very well!
I recently put 3 high powered LED's on the front bottom portion and I wired those so that I can activate them with a switch on my transmitter.

It's pretty funny to do some fly byes and light those up a few times
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Old Aug 27, 2010, 05:19 PM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex_blais View Post

........................
I put my 30 amp esc behind the motor so that it get lots of airflow.
I also put some small heat sinks on both sides of it.
I just re-routed 2 x 14AWG wires from the battery to the top.

Battery wires that long can cause issues....even if it works fine now, the EMF wave forms over wires that long tend to stress out the caps on the ESCs and can cause early ESC failure. One solution is to add extra caps to the connection between the ESC and the battery. the problem is more prevalent in larger high power setups, but can still be an issue in park setsups like this.

ESC cooling is an issue in the Seawind, but not sure that battery wires that long are the best solution, unless you add enough caps to easily handle the higher inductance loads.

Lots more details here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...long+esc+wires
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 08:51 PM
saskflyer
Saskatoon
Joined Aug 2010
19 Posts
A little disapointed

Ok so I got my seawind today, the foam is terrible (see picture) the whole back looks like that. I ordered mine with everything installed except for the rec. and battery. Is there anything I ABSOLUTELY need to do before I go fly it?

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Sep 04, 2010, 11:19 AM
Fly2Build.com
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Redding,California
Joined Dec 2003
2,564 Posts
Can't add much to all of the great information I've read here- and truth be told, i read the first 50 thread posts (thanks Thomas B) and the last 50 or so- and left the ~1,400 in between for another day.

I bought mine as a receiver ready version from Tower a few days back. About an hour of simple assembly was all it took to have it ready to maiden- with the Aileron servo/wing mount issue being the only modification performed worth mentioning.

Box stock, no changes, no problems, and she's a wonderful flying airplane. If you go back and read Thomas's thread starting post, I'd say that was exactly my flight experiences as well. Easy peasy takeoffs- full up elevator while keeping wings level, relax elevator when you leave the water. Landing is almost as simple, reduce power and allow to settle in as you enter ground (water) effect (last 3 feet). Further power reductions require more back stick pressure, and try to drag the tail as you enter the water for the smoothest transition (about 1/4 throttle). Fun!

3 battery packs worth of electrons through the system, and not a drop of water in the fuselage. I did Corrosion X the speed control (removed it, sprayed it down liberally, then reinstalled with new zip ties) and my 2.4 ghz receiver as I do for all my waterplanes. I use the red can Co-X- haven't tried the green.

For anyone looking for a really fun, ready to go value (around $130 bucks or so- plus receiver and battery pack) (Tower price minus a $20 sale credit)- its a deal that is hard to beat. I flew it with both 1550 and a tired 2100 pack, and both worked exceptionally well.

Mike
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 03:09 PM
FLYINGJUNKY
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USA, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Mar 2008
833 Posts
Has anyone come up with a way to stop the wing from rocking in the air. Not sure if it is the battery or the wing itself. Thinking of just hitting the wing with some ca and securing it to the fuse. I am sure someone else has already come up w/ a solution to this as i have seen it on both of my seawinds and i know that I can not be the only one.
Thanks,Eric
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 03:11 PM
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USA, IL, Deerfield
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Good question
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 04:16 PM
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Gold Coast, Australia
Joined Feb 2005
110 Posts
There was a mod someone listed a long way back about helping water not getting in the fuse, by laying a bead of silicone around the fuse where the wing joins, then laying some glad wrap over that and screwing the wing on to leave it set...

This helped me with your wing rocking problem, but I used a pretty thick bead of it hahaha
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