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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:48 AM
unlicensed helicopter nut
zen@lanset.com's Avatar
Berkeley, California
Joined Jan 2007
3,699 Posts
Hey Clicky— can I ask you a 3-axis controller question? I am setting up HeliCommand on a guy's 500 and the manual sez don't use sub-trim in the Tx to level the swash. Naturally when the servos are centered the servo arms aren't exactly at 90°. How the heck do you set the arms and level the swash?
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:08 PM
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War Horse's Avatar
United States, FL, Hernando
Joined Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zen@lanset.com View Post
Hey Clicky— can I ask you a 3-axis controller question? I am setting up HeliCommand on a guy's 500 and the manual sez don't use sub-trim in the Tx to level the swash. Naturally when the servos are centered the servo arms aren't exactly at 90°. How the heck do you set the arms and level the swash?
Zen, although I'm not Clickey..... go into the set-up menu and go to 'servo trim', that will be your mechanical mixer. Its not that crucial to get them perfectly at 90, the ZYX will compensate for the minor inconsistency.

Oops, sorry, I didnt see that your not working with the ZYX..... disregard
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 04:15 PM
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kansas city
Joined Feb 2007
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You maybe on to something War horse! Most controllers that say not to use sub-trim have a menu somewhere during set up that lets you trim all the servos in the controller just like the tarot.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 10:10 PM
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Berkeley, California
Joined Jan 2007
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Oops!

Got two and a half batteries today. The second time I flew the 450 it ate the main gear. (I thought the lash was a hair looser; turned out it was!). It made a horrible noise but descended more or less under control.

It sure is easy to swap just the main gear, unlike crashes, which make you swap bearings, shafts, and miscellaneous pieces too!
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 10:56 PM
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Just going by how deep the threads are cut I would look for something else that caused that!
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:30 PM
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Berkeley, California
Joined Jan 2007
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Either the oil for the Scorpion motor softened the loctite on the motor mounting screws or yours truly forgot to put loctite on them in the first place! I removed each screws in turn, spraying the screw and hole with non-residue contact cleaning to get rid of the oil. Then I put a small amount of blue loctite on the end of a toothpick and applied it inside the hole on the motor. The screws should stay put now.

P.S.: I tested it the next morning (1/30/13) and it is smooth, quiet, and has its customary reliable power. I got the gear contact clearance just right.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 01:45 AM
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UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zen@lanset.com View Post
Hey Clicky— can I ask you a 3-axis controller question? I am setting up HeliCommand on a guy's 500 and the manual sez don't use sub-trim in the Tx to level the swash. Naturally when the servos are centered the servo arms aren't exactly at 90°. How the heck do you set the arms and level the swash?
It's definitively what War Horse said: servo subtrim is usually done in FBL unit itself. It, somewhere, has servo subtrim option so you can set arms to be at 90º. Subtrim on the radio is big 'no-no' for FBL. Many FBL controllers would just ignore it. Each time they are switched on they sample your stick positions including subtrim and pronounce it as middle position. If you change subtrim while it is on it would see it as you have moved stick to particular direction and you can see some creep happening on aileron or elevator axes! It is quite similar to HH tail gyro stuff...

Unfortunately I don't have HeliCommand nor ever seen one to know the details.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 01:46 PM
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Berkeley, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicky View Post
It's definitively what War Horse said: servo subtrim is usually done in FBL unit itself. It...

Unfortunately I don't have HeliCommand nor ever seen one to know the details.
Thanks. I will look up the HC threads on HF and RR. One day we will have this data here on RCG if enough guys vote 'yes' on the thread proposing a 3-axis control category:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1813625

P.S.: until then, can anyone say something about setting equal blade pitch on a flybar-less head?
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 01:33 AM
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Australia, TAS, East Launceston
Joined Aug 2010
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Went to my local club to fly today.

Did my first flip, totally stoked! It was the end of the day and I was feeling confident. Landed packed up and went home before fate noticed.

My best day of flying yet. I was pulling nice banked turns and lots of nose in.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 01:50 AM
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Good on you, Mate! It's great to make progress, isn't it?
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 02:55 AM
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UK
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Originally Posted by dceng888 View Post
Went to my local club to fly today.

Did my first flip, totally stoked! It was the end of the day and I was feeling confident. Landed packed up and went home before fate noticed.

My best day of flying yet. I was pulling nice banked turns and lots of nose in.
Well done! Now only important thing is not to stop doing it thinking you achieved it. I made such mistake in the past and caused me to re-learn it again. Next time you fly try it again (when feel comfortable to do it, of course). And, don't make another mistake I did - learn your orientations first! If flip ended up pear shaped you don't want to crash heli (as I used to do) only because you lost orientation.

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Old Feb 02, 2013, 03:22 AM
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Australia, TAS, East Launceston
Joined Aug 2010
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I've got a question about gyro setting. Which mode do you guys fly rate or HH?

I have been flying rate mode because it feels smother. When I use HH it feels a bit "robotic"
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 03:36 AM
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North West Louisiana
Joined Nov 2009
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The great majority use HH mode. If, like me, you started with planks, rate can feel more natural, and it's fine for smooth F3C type aerobatics - but when you get used to the different feel of HH mode, it makes things easier.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 12:37 PM
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Power Up's Avatar
Northern Ontario
Joined Mar 2007
1,571 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by zen@lanset.com
P.S.: until then, can anyone say something about setting equal blade pitch on a flybar-less head?
Sure! Servo to swash links are pretty well set-up just like a FB Heli and the correct length will be the governing factor on overall equal pitch. I just converted my old Trex 500CF to DFC. To get zero degrees-mid stick meant shortening these links by four full turns, which then using the Skookum software was able to dial-in the collective range to whatever I desired; in my case choosing the recommended 12 degrees positive/negative. Using a digital pitch gauge made this aspect of the set-up a pleasure . One blade was off by a degree or so which was easily rectified by one turn on the DFC control link, although I didn’t like the idea that the ball link screw has to be removed to make adjustments with the DFC swash . Perhaps a real turnbuckle! Setting cyclic throws was also a pleasure using the software and the aid of a digital pitch gauge, which I set to the recommend 10 degrees.

This may not be the answer you were looking for but having just completed the
FBL conversion on mine without a hitch… it seemed somewhat appropriate.

I converted my Mini Titan to FBL late last fall and the maiden and subsequent flights were uneventful; fully expecting the same with this one .

Presently in a deep freeze, Minus 40C >> - 40F this morning, so hoping for a drastic upturn in the weather… Wishful thinking til’ mid-March or so .
Good luck with yours!
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 07:40 PM
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zen@lanset.com's Avatar
Berkeley, California
Joined Jan 2007
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Thanks for the words about flybar-less set-up. I struggled with the set-up software for the Mini V-bar last night and did not get the deed done. I'll watch Mr. Mel's videos again, but that experience makes mechanical set-up seem very straightforward.

I flew seven batteries this afternoon and spent time hovering upside-down in my psychologically challenging orientration: tail-in. Both heli's came down in the condition they took off in so I'm fairly pleased.
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