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Old May 07, 2010, 12:41 AM
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icy_wind500's Avatar
Camperdown, Sydney
Joined May 2009
375 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by henry_jazz2000 View Post
new F-22
WOW how did u make it into full fuse?
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Old May 08, 2010, 10:07 AM
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crucial's Avatar
USA, SE Wisconsin
Joined May 2009
2,375 Posts
Finished up and ready for the maiden.
17.5oz AUW
2212-6 2200kv w/ APC 6x4E pulls 22A on a fresh batt
30A ESC
3S 2200mah

I'm trying to decide whether or not I should tape up the bottom or leading edges.
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Last edited by crucial; May 08, 2010 at 10:27 AM.
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Old May 08, 2010, 10:30 AM
Slow Flyer
Bombay's Avatar
Richmond, TX
Joined Apr 2008
3,235 Posts
Nice work. Let us know how it goes.
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Old May 08, 2010, 12:27 PM
called into work, I'm AIRSICK!
JIMBAKER's Avatar
Oregon
Joined Jan 2009
541 Posts
I would recommend taping the leading edges!

Nice build.

jb

Quote:
Originally Posted by crucial View Post
Finished up and ready for the maiden.
17.5oz AUW
2212-6 2200kv w/ APC 6x4E pulls 22A on a fresh batt
30A ESC
3S 2200mah

I'm trying to decide whether or not I should tape up the bottom or leading edges.
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Old May 08, 2010, 01:08 PM
MonkeySpanker's Avatar
Skåne. Sweden
Joined Jan 2010
59 Posts
Awesome

I just gotta say thanks Tomhe for this great plane , ive only flown on simulators and this was my first try IRL , worked beutiful , ´flyies great at slow speed and can be flown pritty fast too. Love it

sorry for bad spelling and grammar , cheers
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Old May 08, 2010, 01:17 PM
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crucial's Avatar
USA, SE Wisconsin
Joined May 2009
2,375 Posts
Do you guys usually tape over the paint or paint over the tape?
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Old May 08, 2010, 01:32 PM
Slow Flyer
Bombay's Avatar
Richmond, TX
Joined Apr 2008
3,235 Posts
paint first. In my experience, the paint will come off of the tape. Personally, I have built several and have not taped the edges...and neither do my buddies.
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Old May 09, 2010, 04:28 PM
Bring It On !!!!!
soundcheque's Avatar
Newmarket, England.
Joined Aug 2006
689 Posts
Here's my finished model all painted up after the quality maiden.

No adjustments needed but possibly a tad nose heavy. I'll experiment with moving the lipo back 1/2 inch or so.

Usual tried and tested power with a 2212/6, 30A ESC. 6x4 APC and still in 35mhz with a synth receiver.
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Old May 09, 2010, 09:49 PM
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crucial's Avatar
USA, SE Wisconsin
Joined May 2009
2,375 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by soundcheque View Post
Here's my finished model all painted up after the quality maiden.

No adjustments needed but possibly a tad nose heavy. I'll experiment with moving the lipo back 1/2 inch or so.

Usual tried and tested power with a 2212/6, 30A ESC. 6x4 APC and still in 35mhz with a synth receiver.
What parts are you using for your pushrods? I used wire shrink tubed to carbon rods since that's what I'm used to from the 3d foamies. I don't have much experience with the heavier duty mounting of the pushrods.
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Old May 10, 2010, 01:40 AM
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chtipanda's Avatar
lille france
Joined Mar 2009
145 Posts
my new f22


3s1800mah 2 servo 8g esky digital motor 2200kv rctimer esc 30a
realy fun
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Old May 10, 2010, 12:29 PM
Bring It On !!!!!
soundcheque's Avatar
Newmarket, England.
Joined Aug 2006
689 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by crucial View Post
What parts are you using for your pushrods? I used wire shrink tubed to carbon rods since that's what I'm used to from the 3d foamies. I don't have much experience with the heavier duty mounting of the pushrods.
I have standardised accross my builds which means I can keep to the same set ups for all my Depron jets and builds.

My pushrods are 2mm rods with soldered on M2 threaded ends.

The threaded end attaches to a plastic or nylon M2 clevice with silicone tubing to ensure it stays locked on the control surface horn. The threads naturally allow for adjusting to achieve level control surfaces, relfex etc.

The servo end can be the same as the control surface end with another threaded end and clevice or it can simply be Z bend onto the servo horn or in the case of the F22 it is bent at 90 degrees with a plastic or nylon swing keeper.

If you have a longer control rod it may sometimes be a good idea to raise the diameter to 3mm to combat flex.

Your method of carbon rod also works with steel ends attached via cyano and cotton thread wound round to secure then followed by heatshrink.
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Old May 11, 2010, 09:10 PM
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crucial's Avatar
USA, SE Wisconsin
Joined May 2009
2,375 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by soundcheque View Post
I have standardised accross my builds which means I can keep to the same set ups for all my Depron jets and builds.

My pushrods are 2mm rods with soldered on M2 threaded ends.

The threaded end attaches to a plastic or nylon M2 clevice with silicone tubing to ensure it stays locked on the control surface horn. The threads naturally allow for adjusting to achieve level control surfaces, relfex etc.

The servo end can be the same as the control surface end with another threaded end and clevice or it can simply be Z bend onto the servo horn or in the case of the F22 it is bent at 90 degrees with a plastic or nylon swing keeper.

If you have a longer control rod it may sometimes be a good idea to raise the diameter to 3mm to combat flex.

Your method of carbon rod also works with steel ends attached via cyano and cotton thread wound round to secure then followed by heatshrink.
Thanks.

Quick vid of my new build.

6mm Depron F-22 (1 min 50 sec)
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Old May 11, 2010, 10:55 PM
JOHN 3:16
Sammy70's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
6,204 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by soundcheque View Post
Here's my finished model all painted up after the quality maiden.

No adjustments needed but possibly a tad nose heavy. I'll experiment with moving the lipo back 1/2 inch or so.

Usual tried and tested power with a 2212/6, 30A ESC. 6x4 APC and still in 35mhz with a synth receiver.
What CG location were you using that you thought was nose heavy?
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Old May 12, 2010, 05:02 AM
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Newmarket, England.
Joined Aug 2006
689 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy70 View Post
What CG location were you using that you thought was nose heavy?
Hi Sammy, I got my CG exactly as the plan,Center of Gravity Location is 3.25 inch rear of the wing break.

To achieve this I have modified the centre section inside the hatch to allow my Lipo to sit further forward and even then I had to add 40g of weight to the Lipo.

I'm using an 1800mah 3s Lipo which weighs 140g so with the weight added it's 180. I'll take the weight off 20g at a time to get the desired effect. No big deal.

It flies superbly but needs some 1/4 inch up elevator continually for level flight under power.

Inverted needs a whole stick load to stop the Raptor from nose diving.
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Last edited by soundcheque; May 12, 2010 at 05:13 AM.
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Old May 12, 2010, 07:27 AM
Minister of R/C
HeliTB's Avatar
Fort Washington, MD
Joined Sep 2006
1,023 Posts
soundcheque...I would recommend going with a bigger battery. I hate adding un-usable weight. With the bigger battery equalling 180g you will get more flight time :-) I know that's a plus. I always try to balance with moving things around first, as you did, then a bigger battery if moving things around don't work, when building my foamies.

With the elevon, tailerons, waeva you want to call em, has reflex two things happens; one you've created a drag point which slows the plane down, secondly like you mentioned above inverted flying is literally impossible because you would have to reflex the elevons in the opposite direction 1/4" to achieve the same flight characteristics as upright flight.

I just looked at your post again. If you have up reflex in the elevons that means you are trying to keep your nose up, which means your nose heavy. Move the battery back and slowly move your elevons to neutral, that way it will fly true on its own, without constant stick inputs.

I forgot to mention congrats and nice paint job.
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