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Old Jun 23, 2001, 04:06 PM
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santa clarita ca
Joined Jul 2000
893 Posts
yet another hornet problem

new problem,
i have to mount part #e043 anti rotation arm backwards from the diagram in order to control the hornet.it has to go in FRONT of the ball link instead of behind. if i mount it as per the diagram, no inputs from the servos seem to be transmitted to the blades. could my swashplate be too loose? i have had so many expensive problems with this heli that i could have bought a logo 20 by now!

thanks,
tom
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Old Jun 23, 2001, 04:35 PM
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Mario's Avatar
Mesa, Arizona, USA
Joined Jul 2000
2,976 Posts
...Or 2 Robin 300's. Had to do it, Tom, your post was begging for it. Never mind me.

The antirotation arm of the flybar control rods (Swashplate uuper section to flybar control arm), should act not only as the antirotaion device but as a scoop keeping the flybar control rods perpendicular at all times, this is important to the control of the heli. The antirotation arm of the flybar control rods should therefore be installed for clockwise operation with the flybar control rods in front of it.

The original Hornet plastic antirotation arm has only one arm. MIA alumium upgrade has (2) mirror image for better control, I called this the antirotation "wing".

Look for pictures in the link below this will show you how to properly install the arm (Wing) and where to get the upgrade.
http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/Forum11/HTML/001454.html

If you ever consider a Robin 300 read recent posts of the Yahoo Microheli Club, now available with all the upgrades, same old price! minimal replacemtn part cost this is where the Robin shines!.
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/microhelicopters

Mario
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Old Jun 23, 2001, 05:29 PM
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Mountain View Moffett Fd, California, United States
Joined Apr 2001
1,048 Posts
Sounds like a delaminated (split) mainshaft.

Can you easily rotate the head more than 10 degrees relative to the main gear? You can also check it by removing the shaft and inspecting the holes closely to look for splits. You can try dropping thin CA in the cracks and fly again, but I recommend replacing the shaft.

A really cheap (< $0.50/shaft) way to make shafts is to buy some 1/8" CF rod from a local hobby shop and spin it down to 3mm with sandpaper and a drill. Be sure to do this outside and wear a mask! You definitely don't want a lungfull of this stuff.


--jim

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Old Jun 24, 2001, 01:04 AM
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Roswell, GA 30075 USA
Joined Jun 2001
71 Posts
When looking from the top down onto the swash with the nose towards you, the flat part of the antirotation arm is on the back (furthest away from you) side of the left swash pushrod. If you feel you need a tighter setup, two arms can easily be glued together mirror image from one another to get the winged effect.

Check out early pics on
www.geocities.com/mikedemita

or check out Brad Goodmans link there to get everytip known to man for this machine.

While it has it's problems, it is a stable performer and good basic design. You just have to read about 20 good tips from the forums to get it to be perfect.


P.S. - if you are new to helis, micro electrics are a very, very hard way to learn in my humble opinion. I fly everything from 20 lb gassers to my Hornet and it is by far the one I have to stay the most 'in front' of.


[This message has been edited by MadMan (edited 06-24-2001).]
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Old Jun 24, 2001, 10:48 AM
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Highland, CA, USA
Joined Jan 2001
1,122 Posts
Tom,
I created a new arm that captures the pushrods on both sides. I found that during descents that the “timing” was changing because there wasn’t anything to guide the swash plate upper ring. It is basically an aluminum collar with .040 carbon rods. The setscrew allows precise adjustment. I also use stainless tubing main shafts. The photo is the only one I had right now the other parts are some other ‘mods” I have been working on.

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Old Jun 24, 2001, 11:52 PM
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santa clarita ca
Joined Jul 2000
893 Posts
thanks for all the help but i burried my hornet today, i kept all the important parts, maybe one day i will try again.
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