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Old Nov 28, 2002, 12:47 PM
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drbird's Avatar
Los Angeles
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Well there are several "test" kits going out where the builders have agreed to try the micro retracts - as well as show the conversion of other fan units. As soon as they do it will be posted on the webpage listed in the construction manual.

John
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Old Nov 28, 2002, 03:20 PM
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FANMAN's Avatar
Lilburn, Georgia, USA
Joined Nov 2000
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Retracts

Quote:
Originally posted by drbird
Well there are several "test" kits going out where the builders have agreed to try the micro retracts - as well as show the conversion of other fan units. As soon as they do it will be posted on the webpage listed in the construction manual.

John
http://www.aerc.biz
http://www.rc-plans.com
I sure hope they try them before the retracts! I am estimating an additional 2.2 oz minimum to the plane, which IMO, she wont handle, without adding more wing

Dont forget that other fans may work, but bigger motors will yield even more weight. This design was created to be as light as possible, hence, EDF-50's, AAA batteries, etc. If I could be polite enough to suggest `try her as she is' then go for broke, not go for broke, then ask why? What do I know? Give her a try and hope it works!
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Old Nov 28, 2002, 03:23 PM
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LOL - yeah agree Glenn - all the kits for experimentation went out free of charge - I don't want someone to pay for a kit, go through the process of adding and experimenting, and then be unhappy. Hopefully it will work but if not I guess we'll write it off to inovation!

John
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Old Nov 28, 2002, 06:17 PM
The blade numbers go up to 11
stumax's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Aug 2002
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Fanman, how much do the GWS retracts weigh for a trike setup? Any idea what model weight they could handle? Thanks, Stu.
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Old Nov 28, 2002, 06:39 PM
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Lilburn, Georgia, USA
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Retracts

Quote:
Originally posted by stumax
Fanman, how much do the GWS retracts weigh for a trike setup? Any idea what model weight they could handle? Thanks, Stu.
I weighed 3 retracts and 3-1" lyte wheels for 0.8oz, 1 standard Hitec HS-55 servo is approximately .3oz, and then your connecting rod(s), maybe 0.2oz depending on material type, which would give about 1.3 oz. Of course you will need to check the weight of the retract servo, to get a more accurate weight. I also figured into my previously mentioned weight, 3 connecting rods and a couple of small ply mounts to install the retracts, as well as 2 retract servos.

IMO, the above setup could handle a plane weight of 18oz.

I havent tried (or recently observed) using 1 retract servo to operate 3 retracts. If that can be done, the above weight could be achieved, otherwise a more realistic weight would be more like 1.8 to 2.2oz........

ONE more thing, on several of my designs, I find it very helpful to throw all the flight gear (fans,batts,servos,etc) on the scale, then design the wingspan (area) and overall size, based on whats needed to fly it
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Old Nov 28, 2002, 10:27 PM
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Syracuse, NY
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Can a regular Hitec 55 servo operate the retracts or do you need something with more torque? Thanks.
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Old Nov 29, 2002, 06:32 AM
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Worcester, MA.
Joined Nov 2001
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Quote:
Can a regular Hitec 55 servo operate the retracts or do you need something with more torque?
I don't know about the GWS retracts, but in general, retracts required a specialized servo; one with more "throw" than standard.
Standard servos having on the order of 80 - 90 degrees, retract servos closer to 180.
Dennis-
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Old Nov 29, 2002, 06:56 AM
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Cosmic's Avatar
Czech Republic, Plzeň Region, Město Touškov
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Is it not possible to increase the throw of a HS55 by increasing the end points and max drive limit on your radio? Not sure you will get 180 degrees, but should give enough. Or use a longer arm on the servo, can't see that high torque is needed for the GWS units.
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Old Nov 29, 2002, 08:19 AM
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orlando fl
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I'm using a HS60, I assume a HS55 would work fine if the published specs are correct (the 60 and 55 are nearly the same). I use less the 100% throw and the larger of the provided arms. The important consideration is to have a straight shot at the mechanism, and no dog legs at the control arm. If you want check out the parkflier forum, there is a bunch of stuff (including my own dedicated to GWS retracts on a foamie gws zero) about these retracts. The big problem is trying to get a good steerable nose gear. The CEO of GWS hinted that one is in development.
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Old Nov 30, 2002, 12:28 PM
Forgot how to fly
Mike Parsons's Avatar
Atlanta, Georgia
Joined Oct 2002
10,177 Posts
Whistles made for RC planes

There is a company in the UK that sells Whistles made escpecially for RC Planes. The company is ATS Mayneline. You can get two whistles either large or small for Ł12 plus shipping. There website is ats-mayneline.co.uk. From the add in this months Model Flyer "This innovative product is easily fitted in wings or fuselage to produce a realistice turbine type sound".

Quote:
Originally posted by Kevin P
FANMAN: I have a novelty catalogue around here somewhere that I will find that sells "Whizzers" Little plastic whistle like the ones you are talking about.

Kevin


The probability of survival is equal to the angle of arrival.
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Old Dec 02, 2002, 10:34 PM
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raleigh, NC usa
Joined Aug 2001
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Progress

after a hard week of playing and eating it is time to get back to work.

Progress is this
fans rewired
servos rewired
battery packs built
Speed controller location picked
Tailplanes finished and covered plus test mounting OK
Top of fuselage and "burner" area of tail assy covered

Wings build, covered and ready to glue in place once the bottom of the fuselage is set up for the hatch.

Pics to follow:

Question for Fanman and DRbird;

1) do yopu have pics of your battery/ radio hatch on the bottom of the fuselage? can you describe the set up??

2) What are the throws on the tailerons that you are currenly using on your F-4s... guestimation at best of up and down throw measured from the trailing edge of the taileron.

The set up is awsome. The model is not the easiest to cover due to all the compund curves, I had to add a few "anchors" for the covereing to get it to stick and enable the ability to shring it without loosing the lines, especially in the tail assy as well as on the rudder.

The wing is prone to burning (white foam) when you try to really shrink the covering down. . . do not push it, get it on and take the wrinkles out, if you try to get a drum tight covering job you WILL burn the wings (look at my L wing timp panel if you need a illustration of what a heat gun will do to bare foam!!)

Strength issues in the rudder are asuaged once you get the covering on - it stiffens up in a hurry with the covering.

Phil
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Old Dec 02, 2002, 10:35 PM
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rear shot

rear end shot - looks more and more like a f4 from here!
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Old Dec 02, 2002, 10:37 PM
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raleigh, NC usa
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shrinking the covering over foam

watch the temp of the heat gun as you shrink up the covereing, this is not a sheeted wing and you will burn the foam if you are not very careful . . check out the joint between the main wing panel and the tip panel - this is what not to do!
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Old Dec 02, 2002, 10:40 PM
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nose shot

Ok, OK

I have heard from a few already about how it looks from the front so - - "heayaa"

PS, laser duct work is holding up great with the heat over the heat gun - better than expected . . I tried to torch it but was unsucessful!!
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Old Dec 02, 2002, 10:47 PM
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raleigh, NC usa
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battery hatch

This is where I am planning to mount the battery/radio access hatch. Between the F3 and F2 formers, 1/32 AAA balsa laid across the area then cut out to provice a triangle shaped cut out access area on either side of the center of F4 former. Doors will open toward the center of the fuselage and will be hinged with aileron tape and stuck closed in flight via the same method - -

Drbird and fanman . . .will it work or have I overengineered the thing??

Phil
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