|Jul 21, 2007, 11:38 AM|
Park Zone J-3 Cub gets some muscles
Hey check it out. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=pkz4500 The PZ Cub is going to brushless and with a new radio...all for the same price. Just when I was going to order a "new" one to take a trip down memory lane....now I'll just have to wait for this one instead !!
|Jul 21, 2007, 02:58 PM|
I for one am a big fan that they improved the electronics. Hopefully less worries about some kid playing with an RC car at the local park.
|May 17, 2010, 01:52 AM|
Joined May 2010
micro cub issue
I've been flying my micro for about a few months - and yes I have had to chagne the prop and shaft a few times with big crashes (my first plane). I let a friend use it and he ran it into a car and it caused the prop to break from the shaft. I replaced it - although now it has hardly any power. It will only get about 4 to 5 feet off the ground before it crashes. I've tried everything and it seems like their could be a bigger issue - does anyone have any idea?
|Jun 08, 2010, 11:40 PM|
Cub muscles, and Micro Cub issues...
Dora 9 and all,
First, the "new" J3 cub has the same system that has been in the Super Decathlon BL for the past 2 years. a good thing, to be sure - that 370 BL outrunner is an awesome motor.
My Decathlon BL gets well over 10 minutes with pretty aggressive flying, and I use a MAS 8x6x3 on mine... Should be a winner. I prefer the PnP versions, since I have a DX6i to pair to. These 3ch planes are a lot of fun to fly!
You probably have a pretty badly bent internal shaft running the gear from the motor, and it may even be stripped or offset. If you look at your micro J3 Cub (mJ3 for short!) manual, it shows that you can [use a SHARP X-Acto or similar hobby knife] cut along the seam [do this carefully and don't go much deeper than the thickness of the foam, or you may risk hitting the micro RX and servos!].
You can cut just in front of the windshield of the mJ3 to the seam, and forward to the motor, along the middle of the cowling. You do not need to cut under the wing, etc. Since the dummy motors are over the seam, pick one or both off carefully by gently cutting around them. The cowling and front will separate, exposing the motor.
What you do is to use a small hemostat or small pliers, and hold the nylon white nut [behind the motor gear casing on the top rear of the motor assembly]. If I recall, it's a CCW turn of the shaft that loosens it off, and then the motor main shaft should be removable. It will most likely be bent.
You should be able to order a new one from your LHS, just replace, secure the nut, and prop, test, then use CA to re-attach the front cowling and motors as req'd. Let dry for 1h, and you should be fine. You may wish to verify that the soft white silicone dampening material is not loose. This may have come free during the crash. You can reglue it with white glue, or CA.
before finishing the plane, make sure that your front gear [that meshes with the main motor gear] can freely move. after a bad crash, often this is the biggest issue - the motor cannot turn unimpeded, hence the lack of power.
If you have any Qs, send me a private msg. You'll guess by now I repaired my cub at least once before she toasted
My second mJ3 is flying sweet, and no issues.
Darren - SkyCadet
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