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IntroductionHelicopters aren't sold as "trainers," and for a good reason. The word "trainer" implies that a beginner with no experience and no help could build, set up, and fly the aircraft without permanent damage to their wallets, reputations, bystanders, and/or nearby structures. This is (barely) true for fixed-wings (one of us did it, back in the day); for helicopters it really isn't. You need help, both with setup and flying (and a simulator, such as RealFlight G4, will MORE than pay for itself). But you also need a smooth, stable, forgiving airframe, and Heli-Max has it in the Kinetic 50. It may sound counter-intuitive, but larger helis are easier to learn with than those light, jittery minis. More mass means more stability. It isn't exactly a trainer, but it's a good place to start if you yearn to fly without going anywhere.
Kit Contents
When the Kinetic 50 arrived we were so excited we had it out of the box and had begun assembly before we remembered that we were doing a review! As a result we don't have the standard picture of the contents neatly spread out as received. Suffice it to say that the heli arrived neatly and securely packed, with major subcomponents in sealed, marked plastic bags.
Kit Includes:
Kit requires:
AssemblyIt will become obvious as you read this that we started this project with no RC helicopter knowledge or building experience, and our flying was restricted to terrifying the pixels in RealFlight. But we're intrepid folk, and we launched into learning all about these exciting, mythical creatures as we put one together.
Lower Frame and TankOur first step was to pull bits of helicopter out of the box and hold them up next to the manual to see which one looked most like the picture of "lower frame and tank." We decided that the opaque plastic container was likely "tank" and the bits of aluminum intricately wrapped around it was "lower frame." Exhausted from this mental exertion, we decided that was enough for one night and retreated to the house to watch Dancing With the Stars. Fortified by a good night's sleep, we decided see how far we could get into Step 2. This proved a great idea, because Step 2 is familiar to anyone who has built a glow plane: plumb the tank with vent and clunk. We can do that! Embued with courage from our success, we pushed on through the rest of the lower frame assembly. This included mounting the clutch on the engine which, after a brush with panic ("What? Clutch? Clutches are for cars! What's an aircraft doing with a clutch?? Isn't there another Dancing With the Stars on??") proved pretty simple. We then mounted the engine into the lower frame assembly, another step which contained some words we recognized. Confidence was in the air! Then, after completing the lower frame assembly, we stood back and proceeded to argue for 15 minutes over which direction it was facing.
Upper Frame and Servo Frame InstallationThe first step here is to slide the upper frame into the lower frame. This proved quite challenging for us, but after tweaking and pushing and cursing and grunting, the two frames "smoothly" slid into place. Trust us, it's possible. After this trauma, the servo frame practically jumped up and attached itself. The next step presented our first true snag, which was not really a big deal (although if Dancing With the Stars had been on it might have resulted in another lost evening). This was a mauled bellcrank-to-swash linkage. It was bent at such a perfect 20° angle that we thought it might have been on purpose, although we couldn't imagine why. We called Heli-Max to find out what was what with that link. The customer service was excellent and they informed us that no, it wasn't supposed to be bent, but we could just bend it back straight and it should be fine. We did, and it was. Pseudo-crisis averted.
Main Rotor Head Assembly and InstallationThere isn't much to this; despite the complexity of the head itself, it is pre-assembled so all we had to do was mount it on the shaft. The only trick is to be careful when making the flybar paddles parallel to the flybar arms, as the manual clearly directs. This is the step where you first attach the blades, further defining the Kinetic's ... helicopterness. The best thing about completing these steps: at last we knew where "up" and "forward" were.
Finishing the Airframe AssemblyThe rest of the airframe went together exactly as the manual stated, so there's not much to mention here. Tail boom, horizontal and vertical fins, landing gear, gyro mounts, all screwed on easily. It's cool, though, to begin to realize as you put these parts on that this is a dang big heli. If you're experienced and confident, this is where you start to realize how fun this heli is going to be! Being neither, this is where we started to think about our field in terms of places we could take cover.
Equipment InstallationFor anyone who has built an airplane, following these instructions should be pretty simple, although these linkages are much more critical than anything on a fixed-wing aircraft (or "plank," as the heli guys refer to them.) We were given each link's length - in millimeters, so if you don't have a metric ruler, get one now (or even better, metric calipers). You just screw the ball joints in or out until they're the right length. Ball-joint pliers are also a very good investment. BUT don't assume that once you get each link exactly the way the manual wants you to, that you're all set. The settings in the manual, while you should follow them as closely as possible, are only ballpark settings; you will refine them out in the field.
CompletionThe body needs to be trimmed and decals applied, and the canopy screwed into place. We added some canopy glue for extra strength. Finally, we attached the Century Silent Power .50 muffler with no problems. One thing that gave us some concern was the way the little ball of the tail rotor slider didn't fully mate with the socket in the bellcrank - it only went about halfway in. If it slipped out in flight, the flight would end in short order, and not happily. It's not adjustable, so there wasn't anything we could do about it; we excercized it quite a bit and decided it probably was meant to be that way, and moved on, concerned but not worried. But at our first opportunity we ordered a new tail rotor slider (actually the "tail pitch slider set") just to check. Sure enough, the new one is about 2mm longer than our original, and it mates perfectly.
SetupOur friend Peter Chen came over to help us with this crucial step, and we strongly recommend that you enlist the help of an experienced helicopter pilot if possible. Peter poked, hmmmmm'ed, harumphed, and set about refining various adjustments and transmitter programming: blade pitch, throttle curve, pitch curve, tail rotor, and gyro setup. If you don't have a Peter Chen, all of these adjustments are in the last chapter of the manual. We advise you to take them seriously and be as meticulous as possible to ensure a successful maiden.
FlyingPre-lift-off goofsOn our first trip out to the flying field, after going over almost every little thing, we excitedly fired up the engine for the first time, only to discover Little Thing 1: what we had thought was the idle position for the throttle servo was in reality full throttle. This mistake was partially due to 1) you can't see the carb throat once the motor is installed, 2) Peter was unfamiliar with the OS .50 SX-H, 3) he assumed we aren't idiots, and 4) we are. So here's our very first helicopter flying tip: if you start at full throttle, the blades want to spin. This will lead to one of two things: the blades actually spin, which means going home with a busted helicopter, or - well, you don't want to think too long on what else might have happened. But if you're smart you'll restrain the blades while you start the heli (thank you Peter!!) and they don't spin. This puts the clutch in a very awkward situation, which it responded to by melting. It wasn't the end of the world but it was the end of our flying; it cost us a few dollars in replacement parts and whatever residual respect Peter might have had for us. Our next trip out we got it started correctly and the engine idled (yay!). We then proceeded to track the blades. We spun up the blades, noticed the blades weren't tracking right, and shut the engine off to adjust a link in the head. (How did we know which link to turn, and how far? We didn't - the trick is you pick a blade, mark it so you know which one it is, turn its flybar control arm linkage, and try again. If it tracks better, you turned it the right way; if it's worse, you turned it the wrong way.) But when we attempted to restart the engine it wouldn't turn over, and we didn't have the tools to correctly assess the situation at the field. Weekend two: over. (It turned out that the clutch had slipped on the engine crankshaft and was binding against the fan housing). Weekend 3 was much more successful: we got the blades tracking properly, and started in-flight trimming when one of the screws holding the boom support to the frame fell off. Weekend three: over, but not without some success and much encouragement. It was SO COOL to see it finally flying, hovering gracefully, although putting out a plume of smoke that threatened to close down neighborhood schools (it was running a little rich.)
With new screws in the boom support, Weekend 4 led to Actual Flying, although we did have one heart-stopping moment: Peter finally got the heli up and started some aerobatics to see how it would behave, when it suddenly started pirouetting like mad. At first we thought he was showing off, but it turns out he had totally lost tail rotor control. While Vic started doing his impression of Dustin Hoffman flipping out in Rainman ("OH! OH this is BAD! This is VERY BAD!!!") Peter put it on throttle hold and did a textbook auto-rotate landing. We discovered that the rear bend in the tail rotor pushrod had jammed in the pushrod support, which was too far back on the boom. Little Thing 2: be sure when you are building the Kinetic that you put the aft pushrod support far enough forward on the boom that it doesn't contact the pushrod where it bends, and then put a drop of CA on it to hold it there.
Actual Flying
Peter's perspective: For a relatively inexpensive "plastic fantastic", this helicopter is pretty good. It tracks well in forward flight. Hover was stable and predictable. The only control problem I found was a slow pirouette rate that might be due to a bind in the tail linkage. (Make sure the tail control rod can move freely.) Cyclic response was good and I was pleasantly surprised by the nice aileron roll rate. I put it through a mild aerobatic workout consisting of loops, rolls, and flips and a little tic-toc thrown in for good measure. We were still breaking in the engine and I didn't want to push it too hard. All in all, I would say the Kinetic flies well, and can handle anything from a beginner's progress up to intermediate 3D flying.
Quinn's perspective: I have spent about as much time with RealFlight G3.5 as Neil Armstrong spent training for the moon landing. Plus I had 20 hours on a contra-rotating heli and a few brief driveway hops on a 450-sized electric. This gave me enough confidence that I passed on Peter's offer to buddy-box me and went solo. My first flight lasted about 45 seconds; it could have been longer but I can't hold my breath any longer than that. Subsequent flights were longer and longer, and I was able to hover tail-in as well as briefly hover nose-in and side-in. I found side-in the hardest to control: it's just strange to push forward and have the heli go to the left. Although I definitely found it much more difficult than fixed-wing, I wasn't at all nervous and I found the heli to be stable and easy to control, with a much smoother feeling than my little 450-sized electric. (Not to mention I got a kick out of watching the exhaust billowing through the rotor wash.) After 3 or 4 flights, I've started to get more comfortable with hovering and have started forward flight. Nose-in and side-in are still going to take some practice. Heli flying is certainly a change from fixed-wing flying, although I really enjoy it. I feel that when I get behind the sticks of a fixed-wing I'm a little more confident; flying a heli makes me a better pilot overall. I know I have a long way to go before I can fly like Peter, but I'm happy to begin the journey. Vic's perspective: My role when it comes to flying the Kinetic has been mostly staying close to my son, reasoning that helicopters are dangerous, and in case he lost control of the aircraft at least I'd have something to hide behind. I'm looking forward to trying it but have a lot more pixels to destroy in RealFlight first. The Futaba 6EX 2.4 Ghz is a great fit for this model, and it performed flawlessly: the FAAST system is rock-solid and easy to set up. The receiver is high-quality and easy to mount with no trailing antenna (as in 72Mhz) or small remote receiver (as in That Other Brand.) Every time we turned it on the radio linked instantly and we experienced not a single glitch or problem. However, while the 6EX is easy to learn and never once gave us a problem, we found it lacking a few expected features - the most surprising being a lack of subtrim, and only a 6-model memory. This was also our first experience using the FlightPower EVO-RX 7.4V 1320mAh 2S receiver battery, and for safety's sake we charged it using the FlightPower V-Balance Complete Balancer. Both worked perfectly, and we were happy to have the peace of mind, constant voltage, and fast charging provided by a lipo receiver battery. The balancer is very easy to use, and is now our go-to balancer for all of our lipos.
Is This For a Beginner?Absolutely yes, but only after extensive practicing on a simulator, with an instructor on a buddy box, or (preferably) both. Starting with a contra-rotating heli will certainly help as well. Here's an insight that helped Quinn learn to hover: with a fixed-wing, you correct your attitude based on the aircraft's deviation from your desired flight path; with a heli you correct based on the tilt of the rotor disk. In other words, you think more about what the aircraft is about to do than what it is doing. If you wait for it to actually move, you're already behind the curve, and it's hard to get back in control. It really is like balancing a broomstick on your nose. While juggling. On a unicycle. In the rain. While a crazy person is hitting you with a fish. Oh, and try to keep in mind the broomstick is fragile and worth hundreds of dollars. Challenging! Fun! Exciting! (Seriously, it is!)
Flight Video/Photo Gallery
ConclusionBeing our first foray into helicopters, we didn't really know what to expect, and we were a little apprehensive. We found the assembly straightforward (once we figured out what everything was), and the flying has been extremely enjoyable and challenging. We can't wait to get better. Peter, please tell us we'll get better ...
Pluses
Misses
Last edited by Angela H; Nov 16, 2007 at 11:59 AM.. |
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Nov 16, 2007, 02:24 PM
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#2 |
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Instructor
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bournemouth UK
Posts: 1,829
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could you clear something up for me?
looking at the pictures it looks a lot like a century hawk is it a rebadged hawk or a model that is very similar. Ade |
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Nov 16, 2007, 08:15 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 443
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Interesting observation ade, does look just like a century hawk pro
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Nov 16, 2007, 08:57 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 830
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Can't be a Hawk Pro because my Hawk Pro has a very fast piro rate - mind you that can be slowed or made even faster with the 401 gyro I have in it by simply decreasing or increasing the rudder ATV's in the TX.
 Also the tail rotor control slider fit perfectly. I also found it easy to install that tail pushrod on my Hawk with no binding, using the same method I use in a number of my other helis. Simply "eying" the rod from the rear, made it easy to aligning the 3 guides in a staright line to the ball on the servo. And the canopy grommets on my Hawk Pro lasted over 170 flights before needing replacement. But it does look a lot like a "bigger" Hawk Pro (50 size) with a few differences. Probably made for Hobbico by Century. If so they certainly do have a winner. I wish Century would make a Hawk 50.
Last edited by syclic; Nov 16, 2007 at 09:03 PM. |
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Nov 16, 2007, 10:54 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Stockton, Ca. USA
Posts: 6,628
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I enjoyed the review and especially watching Pete take her through her paces. Mike Heer
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Nov 17, 2007, 07:05 PM
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#6 |
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iWeasel
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 1,083
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Ooh, ooh! Where are you flying this? I'll have to bring out Scott and his X-Pro. Is Peter local? I have a Blade CP in the garage and I agree 100%, bigger must be smoother and probably easier to learn on. Problem is funding the bigger heli makes the learning process that much more nerve racking. For now, I'll stick to Real Flight. They should have a counter in the program, showing you how much you've saved but not trying this for real.
Way to go Quinn! |
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Nov 18, 2007, 03:43 PM
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#7 |
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Vic and Quinn Walton
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Santa Barbara CA
Posts: 549
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That's Storke Field at UCSB and yes Peter is a local guy. He's in our club.
Yeah flying the bigger helis definitely gets your attention! I'll let you know next time we go out, it'd be fun to fly together again. -Vic |
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Nov 29, 2007, 11:35 AM
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#8 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lancaster Pa
Posts: 1,856
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Quote:
I was going to order a Raven .50 then saw this heli. Yup .50 size hawk pro I just ordered one. With the 30.00 off promotional code at tower it makes this heli a heck of a deal for a .50 size heli. And it looks like they stock a pile of parts for it. It will look nice sitting next to my MX450XS |
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Nov 29, 2007, 09:02 PM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 830
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Bud,
I think you will find a LOT of differences between a "HAWK 50" and the Raven 50. IMHO these are two very different kits. The Raven is even more then a fully blinged Hawk with a 50 gear ratio. I find my Raven to be more of a smaller Predator because the rotor head and other systems that are important to how a heli flies are more like a smaller versions of their 90 sized Predators then that of the 30 sized Hawk. It has a CNC machined main rotor hub that not only has the standard bolt through the mainshaft to secure it, but like top 90's, it also has a "clamping" mechanism at its base to insure there will never be any "rocking" freeplay develop there. It has the same 4mm flybar system as the Predator that uses a very rigid, heavy duty control yoke (there will never be any flex or flutter here) with flybar paddles that are almost exact copies of those found on the Predator (providing fast and precise cyclic while still remaining locked on in FFF). It uses the same 120 eCCPM, dual bearinged, CNC full aluminum swashplate, as found on the Predator. It has the same stainless steel torque tube with dog-bone universals on each end, as that of the Predator (only shorter). It has the same super tail rotor as the Predator that has a machined steel hub using locknuts to secure blade grips (rather then bolts or long grub screws with nuts as in others)...one will never throw a tail blade with this hub. It has the same great tail blade grips as the Predator, that are supported by TWO radial bearings and a thrust bearing in each grip - it will take forever to develop any freeplay in them. And due to all this support, they work with more instant precision, resulting in a lighter workload for the gyro & tail servo. It has the same heavy duty wide stance landing gear struts as used on the Predator. It comes with some very good 600mm composite (a combination of Carbon Fiber and Fiberglass) mainblades rather then 600mm woodies. It uses a very precise "direct to swashplate" eCCPM control system, that IMHO, is superior to the one on the Kinetic 50 or Hawk (or any other 50 for that matter). There are a few other minor differences, but these mentioned actually make the Raven fly more like a pocket 90 then a higher powered 30. So IMHO, from a strict high performance, low wear, low maintenance perspective, I think the Raven is a much better value in heli then the Kinetic 50 (or most any 50 for that matter) and well worth the extra money. But from a strictly economic low cost training/sport perspective, the Kinetic 50 is very worthy indeed. Personally, I think if one is only going to use basic radio gear in a heli, then one might as well go with something like the Kinetic 50. The Raven on the other hand, due to all its' precision systems, really deserves radio gear of that is also found in top notch 90's. Fortunately, it is priced such that it can leave one with the extra cash to get better radio gear. What I mean is, if one good 50 heli is $350.00 and another is $600.00. Then, using the same budget for heli and radio gear, then the good $350.00 heli will leave the buyer with $250.00 more to spend on servos and gyro. This will make a BIG difference in performance.
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Nov 29, 2007, 09:45 PM
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lancaster Pa
Posts: 1,856
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I already have a Century eccpm kit sitting in the desk here.
Had it from a used Hawk I bought that I was going to convert to electric a long time back. Never converted the Hawk cause back then batteries were still a nightmare for things so big. So the eccpm kit going in the Kinetic now. I will prolly bling it out with the full aluminum head set and triple bearing cnced tail with machined slider. I myself have never noticed the difference between the the stainless and aluminum torque tube much less carbon ones they have out there, but then again the extent of my 3d skills at this point is the flip and roll around with room to recover twice At times I think I have as much fun hanging parts on them as I do flying them. You wouldn't happen to know if anyone makes a servo direct tail linkage that would fit it do you ? You know the one that bolts right on the servo and turns instead of using a push pull rod. |
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Nov 30, 2007, 11:43 AM
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lancaster Pa
Posts: 1,856
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Well I have decided that I am going to convert the kinetic .50 to electric and have ordered a Raven for glow use.
Couldn't make up my mind so I got both
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Nov 30, 2007, 05:22 PM
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 830
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Bud
Sounds like a good plan. There are a number of fellows who have done similar (Hawk, Falcon & Raven) conversions in the "electric heli" forum here on RCG. If you want advice on doing so, I am sure they will be able to assist you. |
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Nov 30, 2007, 06:33 PM
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lancaster Pa
Posts: 1,856
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yeah Fred Bonk and I have known each other here for a long while. Im sure I will have to PM him with a couple questions if I cant already find the answers on the search here.
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Mar 17, 2009, 08:31 PM
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: maple falls
Posts: 52
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hmmm
from your observations do you think this heli is good quality? im looking at buying one! thanks!
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Mar 18, 2009, 01:18 PM
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 443
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I just set one up for a fellow a couple of weekends ago and was relatively impressed, specially for the price..it may not be a Ferrari, but it is certainly a solid Chevy, or Ford, or Dodge.
Its relatively low cost leaves you with more money to spend on the radio and gyro, which is much more important overall. |
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