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Old Oct 22, 2012, 08:39 AM
Hooked
Australia, QLD, Townsville
Joined Jul 2012
36 Posts
Just starting to clean up my fathers 1/6 scale Cessna Skymaster. It has been sitting for a while and the covering on the elevator has gone all sticky. I assume from fuel over the years. What is the best way to clean this off? The fibreglass fuselage has also gone sticky in parts that fuel would have passed over. What is the best remedy???
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 07:08 PM
use the 4s luke, use the 4s...
scrub monkey's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Booyal
Joined Sep 2012
861 Posts
Maybe metho
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 08:30 PM
KE your cub.
Curare's Avatar
in the gutter, again....
Joined Jun 2005
4,098 Posts
Metho will loosen gooey old fuel, but if the fuselage has been painted with the wrong stuff, i'll probably lift that off as well. Do a test in an incospicuous spot first.

If you rub it for a while and the colour comes off, you're in for a hard slog with spray and wipe.

Let us know how you go.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 09:33 PM
use the 4s luke, use the 4s...
scrub monkey's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Booyal
Joined Sep 2012
861 Posts
Well i know that 5in1 spray doesn't agree with arf print
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:31 AM
AKA, Cheap Chiseler
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United States, FL, North Fort Myers
Joined Mar 2012
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sub...
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 03:40 PM
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Joined Dec 2012
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My wife is a quilter and i used her rotary cutter and cutting mat to cut my monocot and it is awesome . She made me buy my own tomt21
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Old Jun 08, 2013, 10:34 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2007
132 Posts
Covering Questions

The pictures are of the wing on my second build/cover. The first was a SA Buzz 100. Covering came out great. Not a wrinkle to be found. Compound curves, polyhedral wings....all came out great. Even the aft fuselage which has a compound/convex thing going on. Now look at the strait wing on my SHAFT 400. Wrinkled wing tips, wrinkled bottom skin etc...the only part I'm happy with is the leading edge. It came out nice and tight. I've done my best to shrink it up, and it was reasonably tight before I began shrinking. Any idea's? Maybe it's time to rip it off and try again...
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Old Jun 08, 2013, 10:52 PM
use the 4s luke, use the 4s...
scrub monkey's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Booyal
Joined Sep 2012
861 Posts
have the heat just above what you used for most of yur covering and move the iron SLOWYLY over the area so the whole length of the iron passes over the area. and use minimal pressure on it other than the weight of the iron itself. i have done this and gets rid of nearly all of the wrinkles that youve shown in the pics. just becareful in the wingtips as it may shrink it too much and expose wood
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Old Jun 10, 2013, 11:52 PM
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Joined Jan 2007
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Scrub,

Thanks for the tip. A bit more heat, and a lot more patience and everything came out except for a couple of wrinkles on the front corner of each wing tip. And really, they're not wrinkles they are folds where I didn't do a good enough job stretching the covering (because I wrongly assumed I could shrink it out). Now I don't have to be embarrassed to take my plane out in public....if I ever get it done.
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Old Jun 11, 2013, 09:46 AM
222 km/hr Parkjet flyer
solentlife's Avatar
Latvia, Ventspils pilsēta, Ventspils
Joined Jan 2010
8,391 Posts
Most of us use a domestic iron for attaching and a hot-air gun for shrinking. That's fine as long as we are careful about setting heat and how long we apply to an area.

But for really good results - this is one arena that I say proper tools make a world of difference ...

The Covering iron with the much smaller shoe as well as temperature range designed for iron on films makes attaching / shaping so much more easy .. the shoe gets into all those nooks and crannies that the cold domestic iron tip cannot !
The purpose designed heat gun ... again it is far better than the paint stripper hot air guns so often used !!

Wrinkles and folds DO come out with careful application ... but let's be honest - unless a machine - we have human hands and failings that mean odd areas are not so perfect !
One of the reasons that cover BOTTOM first and TOP last !! Also that many overlap TOO much especially on wing tips / curves ... this is where the folds and wrinkles usually get made. If film is attached properly to dust free clean edge ... you can with hobby knife cut film along the tip edge before it curls back under. This prevents that folded bit that spoils the other side covering that comes to join up. Knifing that of at tip edge to have clean joint.



Nigel
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Old Jun 11, 2013, 09:51 AM
Airplane crasher
CapMike's Avatar
USA, CT, Shelton
Joined Jan 2008
2,732 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by highnpressurized View Post
Scrub,

Thanks for the tip. A bit more heat, and a lot more patience and everything came out except for a couple of wrinkles on the front corner of each wing tip. And really, they're not wrinkles they are folds where I didn't do a good enough job stretching the covering (because I wrongly assumed I could shrink it out). Now I don't have to be embarrassed to take my plane out in public....if I ever get it done.
Something I found on models like yours is to add a scrap piece of balsa at the leading edge and then sand to shape. That really helps to keep the front top from getting creases/ wrinkles in it that you can't get out. It's too late for this time around, but something to remember for the next time
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Old Dec 27, 2013, 03:02 PM
F2D Pilot/Mechanic
Bob Mears's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Dec 2011
328 Posts
I've been reading through this forum and havent seen anyone using pvc as covering, so I though it might be of some interest to some of you rc guys. This stuff is cheap and shrinks 40% You can get it in only 3 colors that I'm aware of. Blue, Red, and Gold. I've got three vid's on my blog you should take a look at
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=387956
I use it on everything now. built up wings, foam wings, I even us the 150 gauge stuff to cover my combat museum planes instead of glass. 150 is too heavy for airplanes. 75 is what I use on combat planes. 60 gauge on 1/2A's. Shrink iwth a hair drier or Iron at 100 deg. I use dap contact cement to glue down edges if I dont just make a bag and cover one piece.
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Old Jan 01, 2014, 07:30 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, Cottam
Joined Jan 2012
1,395 Posts
I have seen your video before. Looks great. I guess you can't seal a wing that is glued on the fuselage. Anyway, I was wondering how the guage is figured. There is Microns .001 mm, and mils which is .001", and now guage. I checked it, and it seems like 100 guage is .001" or one Micron. That seems fairly thin for a plane. I measured some Econokote at almost .003" or 3 mils, or I am guessing 300 guage. Do you have a micrometer to see how much say 150 guage is in inches? I am wondering because I want to buy some Doculam and don't want 1,000 ft. of the wrong stuff. Everyone says to use 1.5 mil, but I thought maybe I should try the 3 for toughness, and maybe 10 mil for the bottom of floats and center sections of wings or whatever.
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Old Jan 05, 2014, 08:54 PM
F2D Pilot/Mechanic
Bob Mears's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Dec 2011
328 Posts
I don't understand what the gauge measurements are either. Of the years I used seal lamin I know the 3mil is too thick and heave, and we always used the 1.5 mil. and sometimes 1.2. The PVC I purchased 60,75,100, and 150 gauge. 150 is plenty tough, and heavy. I only covered one plane in that stuff. definitely too heavy. The 100 is really nice stuff and feels about like the 1.5 mil seal lamin .I'm using the 75 mainly because I can get it in colors. I haven't found colors in any other size. And it does work well, even though I would rather have the 100. The 75 feels like the 1.2 seal lamin. I know....I could mic it. but I haven't. My battery is dead on my mic......and I just don't care enough. Anyway the 60 gauge would work great for 1/2A's if I was still flying them. Or some small rc planes. Once again its clear only. Although I have painted the inside many times with great results.
I would like to know more of the Doculam stuff. I've never used it, but have heard of it. Where do you purchase it and does it come in colors?
And yes, you can cover with the pvd on a wing already glued to the fuse. I've done it on my WWII planes. I use DAP contact cement to hold the covering next to the fuse. Be careful and don't over shrink. Plus cut it about 1" short of the fuse and use a strong shipping tape to hold it down then you can shrink the crap out of it. If I cover top and bottom in separate sheets, I use crystal clear scotch tape on the edges.
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Old Jan 05, 2014, 09:21 PM
wood is good
loNslo's Avatar
United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
Joined Jun 2012
1,342 Posts
speed--Asking for samples to test would insure you order the right stuff.
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