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Old Aug 19, 2009, 04:39 PM
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great thread !
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Old Aug 30, 2009, 08:05 PM
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HELP! Solarfilm won't stick

Up till now my covering schemes have been quite simple. After reading this thread, I decided to tackle a four color wing job using Solarfilm. I used the glass surface cutting and bonding techniques as described on this thread. I'm using strips of white/yellow/orange/red bonded sequentially, with a 10 mm. overlap. Red bonds to orange,OK. Yellow bonds to white, OK. But, here's the problem; orange will not bond to the yellow, no matter how much heat is applied. I thought I might have a contaminated piece, so I cut some fresh off the roll, but same result; it will not bond
I went to the Solar Film website and found that they recommend something called Prymol on overlaps. It is an etching type primer I assume. It doesn't seem to be available outside of Great Britain.
Anybody got any ideas?

perplexed in northern MI
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Old Oct 04, 2009, 05:01 PM
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Why isn't this thread a sticky anymore?
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Old Oct 04, 2009, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BD Flyer
Why isn't this thread a sticky anymore?
That's a very good question! What happened???????
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Old Oct 04, 2009, 06:53 PM
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Sticky! Sticky! Sticky! we want Sticky!
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Old Oct 08, 2009, 03:58 PM
More Motors, More Fun... :-)
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Great Glass Source

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyhawk 172
....... I've got most of the materials, but what I need is a surface to cut on. I really like the idea of a glass one, but I don't know where to get one! None of the home stores seems to have any, and neither does Ace. At the websites I've been able to find it at, it seems ridiculously expensive ($50+ for one piece).

So my question is, what are the benefits of a double strength glass cutting surface? Are there any alternatives that you like? If it really makes the difference in the cuts, then where could you get one? I live in a big city, so there has to be some place here that has some (I hope).
I absolutely LOVE glass to cut on. It beats mats hands down. No drag and silky smooth.

A cheap source can be a second hand store that sells furniture (like St Vincent De Paul Society Thrift Stores, Salvation Army Thrift Stores, etc.).

What you are looking for is a glass top table. This type of glass is hardened and double strength.

Many times you can get these old tables for under $30. Just toss out the legs and use the glass. You may find some are tinted, and you may find some are etched with a decorative pattern; as long as there is an un-etched surface you can use, you are good.

Size wise, look for something at least like a 24" x 36" piece.
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 12:11 PM
More Motors, More Fun... :-)
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Recommended Heat Gun Sources

Quote:
Originally Posted by brucea View Post
Dear Rob, The Anderson heat gun has a two speed fan. The nozzle has an extension that allows you to control exactly where the heat is applied. I like the Anderson gun very much.

Thanks, Bruce
I too like the Anderson heat gun, and I have found additional sources that I would like to share:

Maxx Products (MPI)
Lake Zurich, IL
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-20.html
Currently, the ACC202 is $23.95

Sam's Stuff & Hobbies
Gatewood, MO
http://www.sshobbies.com/heatgun1.html
Currently, the ACC202 is on sale for $19
EDIT: 1/18/2012 -- Seems like Sam's Stuff is no longer reachable at this web address, I suspect that they may have gone out of business.

I have ordered from both vendors and found them to be very good. I ordered my Anderson from Sam's Stuff, as the gun was on sale and they had a $5 off $50 order deal for October. Delivery was prompt, and the quality of the gun is quite good. Gun is made in Taiwan.

The RC Dude link is re-posted here for convenience. Price currently is $24.95
EDIT: 1/18/2012 -- I ordered two of the heat guns and with some other items got free shipping. Delivery time was excellent. Recommended.
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Old Dec 13, 2009, 01:27 PM
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Wish me luck
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Old Dec 13, 2009, 02:01 PM
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Wish me luck
What are you going to try?
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Old Dec 13, 2009, 02:14 PM
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Just doing a MillenniumRc SSX but I have never used covering. I just want it to be perfect the first time (don't we all) but I realize it will take time/experience to do well.
Will post pics but its gonna be a week or two. Waiting on everything to come in.

Want to do multi color scheme but will probably do just a plain color first go around.
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Old Dec 13, 2009, 03:59 PM
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Az

The SSX was my very first build and covering as well. I wanted to make it a nightflyer as well so went with transparent covering and two color scheme. Go for it and just take your time!
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Old Dec 13, 2009, 04:33 PM
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Nice looking plane. What light system did you use? Does it plug right into the rx?
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Old Dec 13, 2009, 05:27 PM
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My very first Balsa covering job...

I did cover a couple of EPP foamies before this...that was good practice...
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Old Dec 13, 2009, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzHeliCrasher View Post
Nice looking plane. What light system did you use? Does it plug right into the rx?
Based it on an CC applications note posted some time back!. I used a separate dedicated for LEDs BEC, CC-10 programmed to put out 8v. At that voltage you can run two leds in series with one resistor and add as many pairs as you want until you run out of BEC current. I am running about 30 leds on mine but with this setup you could run alot more.

Using LEDs from this site.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi

Good Luck with your covering job!
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Old Dec 14, 2009, 03:17 PM
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A little off topic, but... LED's

Quote:
Originally Posted by weasel53 View Post
Based it on an CC applications note posted some time back!. I used a separate dedicated for LEDs BEC, CC-10 programmed to put out 8v. At that voltage you can run two leds in series with one resistor and add as many pairs as you want until you run out of BEC current. I am running about 30 leds on mine but with this setup you could run alot more.
You may be aware of this but, you actually don't need a BEC to run just the LED's. I run my LED's directly from the battery with an appropriately selected dropping resistor. (LED's are current sensitive devices and they would actually be better off with a current regulator rather than a voltage regulator like the CC BEC)

Since the range of voltages supplied by the Lipo to the LED(s) is so small, a simple resistor circuit is really all that is needed.

An excellent online calculator for LED dropping resistor calculation is here at this link.

To see the calculations by "hand", I lifted the following from my blog so that you can see the selection process, it is actually very simple and easy to implement; To use a 3S battery system as an example:

For a 11.1 volt (3S) Lipo pack (using three 3.0 volt (Vf) 10,000mcd LED's)

Calculate the Resistor value from the maximum voltage of the 3S lipo pack. 3S lipo = 12.6v (fully charged). I will also use the maximum If of 30mA since it is not possible for the voltage to rise higher than 12.6 volts

R = (Vb-Vf)/If ; R is the resistor we want (see circuit below)
Vb is the Battery Voltage
Vf is the forward voltage of the LED at typical bias
If is the bias current desired, (typically 20mA for a 5mm LED)
(12.6-(3.0+3.0+3.0)) / 30 mA = 120 ohms

The value calculated is for THREE LED's in series (Image below). The closest standard value is 120 ohms at watt.

When the voltage falls to 11.1 volts the amount of current If is:

(11.1-9.0) / 120 ohms = 17.5 mA

This is a good value for the LED array since it is near the typical current bias of 20 milliamps. Most 5mm T1 3/4 LED lamps "peak" in brightness at about 12 to 20 mA. Over biasing the LED's (in excess of 30mA) will always reduce life, and only produce small changes in brightness for large amounts of increased current.

(This formula is just E=I*R re-written to solve for the calculated current). The value of the current flow is very near our target of 20mA at 11.1 volts so the values are good for long LED life; and the Lipo pack will not stay at 12.6 volts very long due to the motor load.

--

It is important to realize that you want as many LED's in the string as there is voltage to bias them. One LED on a 12 volt source with a big dropping resistor is a waste of power. You want the LED to dissipate the power as light, not the resistor dissipating the power as heat. Use the online calculator link above to try out some different figures, making note of the power that is being dissipated in the resistor to see what I mean.

The forward voltages of the LED's can vary depending on color. Blue and white LED's typically bias at 3.0 volts, red and yellow may bias at 2.2 volts.

The LED's I use in aircraft receive power from a direct tap from the battery connector. The wire can be very small gauge; 22 to 30 gauge.

--

Weasel - I hope this is helpful and lets you free up that BEC so you can use it for other applications. If you have the link to this CC BEC LED application note, I would like to read it; thanks in advance.

If you want inexpensive, quality LED's go to Best Hong Kong. They have a vast selection of LED's -- large and small.
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