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Old Jul 14, 2007, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dbox
What do you guys think. Is it too much ?
Have to protect servo pushrods/based on experience/on landings
I think ,its kinda "heavy",but dont have anythig else.
Yuri.
Bitchen carbon covers! I want a set. I'm happy to take the drag and weight penalty for good protection. What is the source? I'd like a set or two.
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dessertracer
Eric (or somebody):

How does the Bandit fit into that category among the Absolute and the Kamrlot?
Sorry bud, no actual experience with it.

Ive heard the Bandits are liked a lot, are really rugged and easily repaired. I've also heard slow base to final turns on landing are prone to spins.

My guess is that this is due to user set up (diff aileron settings or not in basic balance, too much throw on the elevator, wing not perpendicular to fuse, etc.), but again, just a guess.

If you have one coming, you might consider the use of spoilerons for approach and landing. This would reduce drag / lift, make steeper approaches possible, and may likely improve the stall characteristics too. You'll need to mix in some elevator, so start at a high altitude and have a helper while tuning it out enflight.

If it still dips a wing, we can probably correct with some basic balance tuning. And if it's still dropping a wing after everything is setup right, we can add some little leading edge boundary layer turbulence inducer on the side that is less stalled; hopefully getting it all tuned up for a wings level stall; that will result in less altitude loss for recovery = safer.

At any rate, consider starting a thread for your build setup / tuning discussions specific to your project when it arrives.

Good luck. That 1509 1.5D on 4S is gonna rock!! (at some point you'll need a CC PHX 125 to take full advantage of the potential. Send me a PM when ready for supercharging the 1509)
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dessertracer
Eric (or somebody):

How does the Bandit fit into that category among the Absolute and the Kamrlot?
Smaller, heavy wing loading with the same draintrains, will likely appear faster cause it's smaller.

Your's should be an a b s o l u t e rocketship.

Consider the under square props initially to guard against launch issues related to heavy, high power weirdness that can occur with square and over square props. If you can do partial power launches, even better (just don't smoke that 80 amp ESC by using a normal, proportional throttle; radio needs to be set for switched throttle on/off (perhaps 50% of that programed for launch) and the esc needs to be programmed for it as well, per Nue's website FAQ's)
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by shhhhh!
Hey Eric,I have a NIB Absolute,Carbon Fiber version...I don't need the outrageous set ups that you guys have.Would a Neu 1509/1.5D/6.7,4s4900,and a 14.5x14 prop give me reasonable performance? From the Motor calculator:
146 amps
112mph pitch speed
302 oz of thrust with a motor rpm of 57,000.
1900 watts in
Could I hand launch this or should I bungee launch this off our club PVC pedal launcher? Could I get by using a CC125?
Thanks,
-Dave
That'd be a really nice set up!!! It'll sound cool too

The CC PHX 125 would be ideal if you do the switched on/off throttle. And bonus, you'll have lot's of head room to prop it up later if you choose.

As for the bungee, I think its the best and safest way to go.

I had no experience with them prior launching these hp sailplanes and have never had a problem since trying it out solo. With the launch peg mounted on the fuse botom, even with the wing leading edge, the models fly straight and accelerates at a realatively constant altitude with a very slight back pressure on the stick at release. I hold the plane maybe 5 degree pitch up at release. There's no hurry to get the motor on either, if you have the Hose monster standard 2 meter bungee pulled taught. It's about 50 bucks.

I haven't tried the rail launcher yet, but that's the next thing to do. If your club has one and it's up to the task, go for it. Lenny did a nice one and posted the "how to". He uses a cut down (very short) Standard 2 meter bungee from Hosemonster, whereas I still use 35 to 50 feet (it's overkill, but it works really nice and it's very easy. If you go this route, pay attention to your stakes and connectors, when under tension, these things have huge potential energy and a unplanned stake released at full tension could be very hazardous. A double stake, sepparated by afew inches of line is well worth the effort.

Ciao,

Eric
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 04:26 PM
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Ok Eric,Thanks for the detailed explanation.I am going to start saving up for the above mentioned set up.Later,if possible I will need your help in how to properly program the CC125 for switched /on/off throttle.I have a JR 8103 TX. I guess I will just mix the gear switch to the throttle to give me on off?

-Dave
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 04:54 PM
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Dave,
That would work i guess. However i seem to get the impression most people have a button that is spring loaded to the OFF position. So how long you keep it pressed is how long the motor will run. I will go this way on my DX-7 i think.

Dbox,
I did my aileron links internally. Thought i posted a picture somewhere but i can't seem to find it. In any case, your method is better! Less slop that way! A nice clean protective cover you have there, not to mention it is good looking!

Eric,
Who is using or suggesting a CC 80 amp controller? Now that would be total cheapness! Not worthy of this plane!

Joe
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 05:04 PM
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Joe,what is the reason one just can't use the throttle stick in these high amp setups?Is it too hard on the speed controls? I have a spring loaded trainer switch,but I am not sure how to mix that with the throttle.
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 05:45 PM
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A throttle stick might work just fine. But be sure you get 100% travel and not 99%. Also the time it takes to go from 0% to 100% with a throttle stick could be a little longer then on a switch. I'd say the spring loaded switches are not a bad idea!

Brushless controller are crap at part throttle and if the motor run time of these high power setups is only a few seconds to start with, the startup sequence of the motor will be critical to. I'd leave the controller to figure it all out and just tell it to go from 0% to 100% with no steps in between.

But i guess as long as you are not to far up from the original 125 amps, it should cope. You could even launch the plane on part throttle and only after a second or so go for 100% throttle. I would not do this if you are way above the 125 amps, unless you get a 300 amp version then the mark changes to 300 amps.

Hope that Eric can shed some more light on this. I can only go by logic and hope never to blow a controller!!!

As far as my Absolute flying, i have yet to hear from FlyDMA about the status of my Neu 4S 4900mah pack. Am hoping it is on the way! Can't wait!

Oh by the way.......

Still window shopping for the ultimate 12S setup. The Neu 1515/2.5D on 12S Kokam 3200 mah ''H5'' and CC HV-110 with a 17x18'' is tempting to say the least.

Could go 18x19'' if the volts are not to high or otherwise cut it down to 17x19'' for the ultimate sound! That would be ~60C drain rate and a 10 HP setup! Is there a sticker for that availeble somewhere?!!!

Joe
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 06:19 PM
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Eric and gang.Here is a linkhttp://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...n+servo+covers to servo covers I am using everywhere I need.
Quality,price and service is great.I used a 9" cover to cut out covers for Absolute.
Kimble,internall.. hah... thats what I was thinking ,find us a pict. please.
Yuri.
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimble_Schmitz
Dave,

Eric,
Who is using or suggesting a CC 80 amp controller? Now that would be total cheapness! Not worthy of this plane!

Joe
Yep, it's the econo route.

I used it on 10 cell Zoom race, my first real hotliner.

It can do 150 ish amps in LMR applications with proper cooling and sometimes it fits where a CC PHX 125 won't, so, it's actually a viable option, especially if it's what you already have and it's got healthy capps.
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimble_Schmitz
But i guess as long as you are not to far up from the original 125 amps, it should cope. You could even launch the plane on part throttle and only after a second or so go for 100% throttle. I would not do this if you are way above the 125 amps, unless you get a 300 amp version then the mark changes to 300 amps.

Hope that Eric can shed some more light on this. I can only go by logic and hope never to blow a controller!!!
Oh by the way.......

Still window shopping for the ultimate 12S setup. The Neu 1515/2.5D on 12S Kokam 3200 mah ''H5'' and CC HV-110 with a 17x18'' is tempting to say the least.


Joe
I think you basically have the concept. The ESC like wide open throttle and has to work hard restricting the flow at intermediate settings. Resistricting that flow results in heat. On high power set ups, lt's of flow to restrict and lots of heat generated.

The spring loaded switch on many radios, where your left index finger would be when holding the radio, is what I have seen used.

As for the 12S set up, if you want to consider an HV110 / F27, or HV110 Neu 1512 3D combo, you can pm me. I have one 1512, 2 F27's and HV110's; ran them in the Kamie and know what they can do. Neither are being used, so I'd consider a trade or sale if needed. The F27 is the light weight HV set up as it can use 2100's, while the 1512 likes 2500+ mah cells.
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 06:49 PM
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Can't seem to find them online so here they are again fresh from the laptop.

I made the HS-85MG servo arm as short as i could. Used a special plastic thingy to keep the wire from popping out. No slop there!

The bit that i glued into the slot in the aileron is just a piece of print board. Connected onto that is a normal metal clevis. Now i wish i had slightly biefed up the thin metal rod as it will flex a little under load. But i can't take it out anymore! The metal clevis has no room to open up! Oops!

It's not worth the hasle...... but i like to experiment.
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shhhhh!
Joe,what is the reason one just can't use the throttle stick in these high amp setups?Is it too hard on the speed controls? I have a spring loaded trainer switch,but I am not sure how to mix that with the throttle.
That's the switch to use. And see previous post for the basic idea.
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimble_Schmitz
Can't seem to find them online so here they are again fresh from the laptop.

I made the HS-85MG servo arm as short as i could. Used a special plastic thingy to keep the wire from popping out. No slop there!

The bit that i glued into the slot in the aileron is just a piece of print board. Connected onto that is a normal metal clevis. Now i wish i had slightly biefed up the thin metal rod as it will flex a little under load. But i can't take it out anymore! The metal clevis has no room to open up! Oops!

It's not worth the hasle...... but i like to experiment.

Very sano!!! Nice work dude.
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Old Jul 14, 2007, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbox
Eric and gang.Here is a linkhttp://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...n+servo+covers to servo covers I am using everywhere I need.
Quality,price and service is great.I used a 9" cover to cut out covers for Absolute.
Kimble,internall.. hah... thats what I was thinking ,find us a pict. please.
Yuri.

Thanks Yuri, Just ordered a set.
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