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Old Nov 08, 2012, 06:19 AM
Registered User
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
100 Posts
Hello,

I am wondering if anyone has replaced or hardened up the flaps and/or ailerons on the Cularis? Maybe use some other material that does not flex or torque as much under load? Any ideas would be great. I may have to take it over to scratch builders to see what they say, but thought I might try here first.

Thanks
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 09:01 AM
Corsair Captain
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Oct 2010
2,253 Posts
Using live hinges would help with that along with maybe a carbon fiber strip along the middle of the control surfaces.
Garry K.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 12:27 AM
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Joined Jul 2010
36 Posts
One thing you can do is use a dremel tool and carefully groove the surfaces you want to stiffen.
In there you can add a carbon rod of your preference. I'd start with the ailerons as they're more susceptible to bending and flexing under load, which in time damage is permanent. Don't use a hobby knife to cut grooves. You'll ruin the surfaces.

As for the hinges I'd also start from the ailerons and rudder.
I would not recommend doing the flaps as their top surface is hinged with the wing's top surface and it would spoil the surface; Except of course if you have plenty of time and are very careful.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 03:39 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Weymouth
Joined Mar 2009
18 Posts
I used some carbon sheet that I had made up on a sheet of glass, a piece either side and overlapping the flap control horn, stuck with cyano. I hadn't planned on doing the others, at present.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 03:46 PM
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
100 Posts
Thanks for the tips. Carbon rod seems the simplest method. And for me simple is best I might check hobbyking.

Justin
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:39 PM
risoaringclub.org
United States, RI, Providence
Joined Sep 2005
17 Posts
Happy Holidays All, and special thanks to Santa for placing a new C next to the tree.
Since i knew it was coming, i've read this entire thread along with instruction manual online.
I've built many balsa & epp foam aircraft and always like to test out how any glue works on scrap before beginning assembly.

using thick CA (like ZAP CA) on scrap from the packing i'm finding that it just doesn't seem to really adhere well. By this i mean after letting it cure for a few hours, it's quite easy to pull apart the two glues pieces. I've tried this using the great planes kicker, water, and no kicker. 'have also experimenter with Gorilla glue brand CA with same results.

Am i missing something, or just being too critical?

I'm tempted to go the hot glue route, but CA seems lots more friendly for a "field" fix.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this topic
rgds, Randy
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 04:29 PM
Life-abstract=conformity
S.F. Bay Area
Joined Aug 2002
1,872 Posts
Maybe give it a good wipe with some rubbing alcohol?
J
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 04:48 PM
The "Foaminator"
mikeruth's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Mar 2007
2,169 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by k8zfj View Post
Happy Holidays All, and special thanks to Santa for placing a new C next to the tree.
Since i knew it was coming, i've read this entire thread along with instruction manual online.
I've built many balsa & epp foam aircraft and always like to test out how any glue works on scrap before beginning assembly.

using thick CA (like ZAP CA) on scrap from the packing i'm finding that it just doesn't seem to really adhere well. By this i mean after letting it cure for a few hours, it's quite easy to pull apart the two glues pieces. I've tried this using the great planes kicker, water, and no kicker. 'have also experimenter with Gorilla glue brand CA with same results.

Am i missing something, or just being too critical?

I'm tempted to go the hot glue route, but CA seems lots more friendly for a "field" fix.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this topic
rgds, Randy
Do not use thick. Indeed it will not adhere as well. I have bult a few of these now and Thin Regular(the kind that eats foam) CA is the ticket. Elapor bonds best with that. It's not your typical foam and I don't think there is another manufacture that uses it, if I'm not wrong it's a properitary formula by Multiplex.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 06:53 PM
risoaringclub.org
United States, RI, Providence
Joined Sep 2005
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Problem solved, I wasn't using enough ca to adequately create a good bond. I should have comprehended the earlier statements in this thread re. Using a lot of CA
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 01:51 PM
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Huntington Beach CA
Joined Jan 2008
153 Posts
I recently finished a Cularis build and I am less than happy with the results. The tail is not correct - the horiz stab is not square with the vert stab. I sent an email to Cularis and received a very prompt reply from Mike Mayberry (Customer Service Team Manager for Hitec/Multiplex USA) stating that it was a build problem attributable to me. I have the two halves of the fuse match up perfectly and I do not recall any "adjustability" in the internal structure pieces that mounts the horiz stab.

Where is the issue here? Did I make a mistake? Mike stated that I "test fit the stab and check the alignment... during the gluing process" but I am not sure how one does that with hot CA between to pieces of foam. He now suggests that I "will probably have to cut something to fix it now" which I am not sure is something I want to take on.

Anyone have any suggestions of ideas? How to repair? Should I lean harder on Mulitplex for a resolution? I'm considering rebuilding the fuse so maybe some type of discount or better on the parts? Any comments or input would be appreciated.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 03:14 PM
The "Foaminator"
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalsteve View Post
I recently finished a Cularis build and I am less than happy with the results. The tail is not correct - the horiz stab is not square with the vert stab. I sent an email to Cularis and received a very prompt reply from Mike Mayberry (Customer Service Team Manager for Hitec/Multiplex USA) stating that it was a build problem attributable to me. I have the two halves of the fuse match up perfectly and I do not recall any "adjustability" in the internal structure pieces that mounts the horiz stab.

Where is the issue here? Did I make a mistake? Mike stated that I "test fit the stab and check the alignment... during the gluing process" but I am not sure how one does that with hot CA between to pieces of foam. He now suggests that I "will probably have to cut something to fix it now" which I am not sure is something I want to take on.

Anyone have any suggestions of ideas? How to repair? Should I lean harder on Mulitplex for a resolution? I'm considering rebuilding the fuse so maybe some type of discount or better on the parts? Any comments or input would be appreciated.
Sorry to hear that Steve. I do aggree it is a building issue though and part of building any of these kits is making sure things line up as they are supposed to before gluing and thats up to us, unless of course there is a major problem with the kit. Something broken etc.

I have built two of the cularis models and when installing the tail feathers I had blocked up the fuse and wing flat and level then attached the horizontal stab and vertical fin using Epoxy allowing time to set the parts correctly. I did do a repair of one with CA for another fellow and on that I did the same but got every thing lined up "dry" then applied the CA and quickly made any small adjustment before it set.

It's jsut the nature of the beast here. How bad is it? can you post a picture to show us>

Maybe we can help in coming up with a better plan than just cutting the parts off for reatttachment.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:44 PM
Registered User
Huntington Beach CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeruth View Post
Sorry to hear that Steve. I do aggree it is a building issue though and part of building any of these kits is making sure things line up as they are supposed to before gluing and thats up to us, unless of course there is a major problem with the kit. Something broken etc.

I have built two of the cularis models and when installing the tail feathers I had blocked up the fuse and wing flat and level then attached the horizontal stab and vertical fin using Epoxy allowing time to set the parts correctly. I did do a repair of one with CA for another fellow and on that I did the same but got every thing lined up "dry" then applied the CA and quickly made any small adjustment before it set.

It's jsut the nature of the beast here. How bad is it? can you post a picture to show us>

Maybe we can help in coming up with a better plan than just cutting the parts off for reatttachment.
Sure I can put up some pics. I've built a few planes, mostly stick built balsa. I lined up the outside of the fuse perfectly thinking that the molded pieces would follow along. I guess I was wrong.
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalsteve View Post
Sure I can put up some pics. I've built a few planes, mostly stick built balsa. I lined up the outside of the fuse perfectly thinking that the molded pieces would follow along. I guess I was wrong.
I have an old cularis, and it have happened with her loads of things. I have to admit that it even flies better now than when I built it first time! I would suggest give it a try to fly your machine. Maybe you just need to put the rudder to the left about 2 cm to stop the machine from turning right too much (specially at high speed). For the elevator I would not worry much (mine is quite similar to yours now). If you tend to make loopings and acrobatic manouvres possible you will feel the instability of the plane, but for relax and quiet flies without strong wind I think you will learn how to fly her beautifully!

(when I glued the two halves it happened something similar, bended the tail to one side, and then the elevator also as the parts to fix it are inside the tail).

Nacho
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 12:13 AM
The "Foaminator"
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalsteve View Post
Sure I can put up some pics. I've built a few planes, mostly stick built balsa. I lined up the outside of the fuse perfectly thinking that the molded pieces would follow along. I guess I was wrong.
As mentioned, striaghten things up as best possible and see how it fly's,

I've had one that looked pretty funky yet flew well

Also I had one that got pretty tweaked in a hot van, So i figure if it can twist in the heat, why not twist it back? It worked amazingly well. People could not beleive how much opposite twist I was applying without breaking the foam.

Mike R
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:35 PM
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Joined Mar 2009
191 Posts
Hi everyone, IŽd like to know this plane gliding ratio ??? anyone knows it??? Easy Glider has a 10:1 meters ratio, but seems that no one knows this info about cularis, not even multiplex... yes, I mailed them....
Thanks
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