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Old Jun 28, 2007, 09:57 AM
It flew...nearly!
Norway
Joined Apr 2006
1,940 Posts
Pictures, gentlemen, please!
matthew
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Old Jun 28, 2007, 10:31 AM
Biting ankles since '53
No Pants Island
Joined Feb 2007
2,944 Posts
Just got an email that my Cularis has arrived at the LMS! I'll be joining in soon (and upgrading my flap servos for sure!)
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Old Jun 28, 2007, 12:43 PM
Cat Rack
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Lyle, WA
Joined Dec 2000
1,478 Posts
Finished up the second wing and installed the servos and extensions. Feeling too lazy to solder customs ones to the right length, I figure this bird can take an extra ounce or two.

The wire channels are deep enough near the root to take up all the slack in the 24 and 36 extensions simply by folding it back and forth a few times inside the channel. Sure nice to have the access to do this since I cut exterior slots.

I am not going to use the blind mate system, again for maintainability and it eliminates to some degree concerns about the wings coming a bit loose ( in terms of keeping control surfaces functioning). To do this, I opened and cleared the wire slots in the wing plates and the joiner so the wires just feed all the way through. I already tested plugging the wings in with 3" pigtails and the wings still fit flush to the fuselage.

Tonight I will enlarge the rudder and elevator servo mounts to accept the 3102s. Since I am never going to use this bird with a motor, I am going to tape over the holes in the motor mount and fill it with expanding poly glue. I will then install the foam filled motor mount in it's usual spot. This will beef up the nose region a bit.
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Last edited by MtnGoat; Jun 28, 2007 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2007, 01:26 PM
Biting ankles since '53
No Pants Island
Joined Feb 2007
2,944 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnGoat
I am not going to use the blind mate system, again for maintainability and it eliminates to some degree concerns about the wings coming a bit loose ( in terms of keeping control surfaces functioning). To do this, I opened and cleared the wire slots in the wing plates and the joiner so the wires just feed all the way through. I already tested plugging the wings in with 3" pigtails and the wings still fit fut to the fuselage.

Hmmm. Nice idea.
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Old Jun 28, 2007, 08:26 PM
Sweet!
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United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Jul 2001
2,803 Posts
Making A123 cells fit. I'd been saving a bunch of A123 cells for just such an application. If you are unfamiliar with these beauties, they are 2.3AH constant discharge rated at 70A! Somewhat lower voltage than lipoly so 4 A123's will be needed instead of 3 lipos. Benefits beyond the total animal amps is a much faster recharge rate 2 or 3 C is OK. Likely I will not be carrying a second pack to the field.

But 4 cells do not fit in the battery bay of the Cularis. Some sanding will be needed so a cell was volunteered to do duty as a sanding form. I went at both sides of the fuse in the battery hold until the cells nested in nicely without crossing the centerline. The kit features 2 pieces of plastic named "spines." Really, this is a good name for them because they add a great amount of rigidity to the forward fuselage. Simply hacking them without a thought to the loss of strength didn't seem a good idea. Yet, they had to yield to get the batteries in. So I guestimated the amount that they needed to be relieved and went at it. You can see the result. I cut away just enough to allow the battery diameter to bulge past. I used a bandsaw and (are you ready?) a...a..Dremel! Yes, here is something that a Dremel actually can do! I used it with a sanding drum to make the curve in the plastic. I did this so that the battery would be able to slip in and out without catching on a lip of plastic on the way. The curve also distributes stress on the plastic spine, better than a square cut.
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Last edited by Quacker; Jun 28, 2007 at 11:22 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2007, 11:18 PM
Sweet!
Quacker's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Jul 2001
2,803 Posts
I just finished sanding the stabilizers. I did pretty much what I did to the rudder. One tip is in putting in the spar caps: Press them all the way in with your fingernail. Then, holding them near vertical with the root down, use just a little ultra-thin CA and just let it creep down the length. You can blot up the extra at the bottom with a paper towel. Caution: do not twist or bend the stab while doing this or it will stay that way. I didn't use kicker. I just let it sit, propped up until it kicked by itself. Very nice result!
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Old Jun 29, 2007, 03:14 PM
Cat Rack
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Lyle, WA
Joined Dec 2000
1,478 Posts
Finished up the airframe last night. Sure a nice looking bird. Tonight I'll get all the wiring plugged in and mixed, and put some stripes on it.
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Old Jun 30, 2007, 12:29 AM
Sweet!
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United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Jul 2001
2,803 Posts
You're flying video gear, right? What are your plans to mount the gear?
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Old Jun 30, 2007, 06:16 PM
Cat Rack
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Lyle, WA
Joined Dec 2000
1,478 Posts
I was going to mount the TX in the rudder but upon closer inspection there isn't enough meat back there to have a removable rudder and a video TX both, since the only place for a wire to reach the TX is forward of the elevator bellcrank, and this is where the forward mounting tab of the rudder goes. I suppose I could thin that down but I decided not to mess with it.

I still want it a bit aft to keep it away from the other components, so I decided to mount it a couple inches behind the wing saddle where the fuse is beefy enough to handle a pocket cut into it. So I traced around the TX on one half of the fuse and then cut out a small area for it to sit. Added a wiring tunnel back to the cut out as well. So it will sit a few inches back as described with the antenna sticking out the top. Typically on an install like this I just leave the vid TX in place regardless of wether I'm flying video or not. I just fold the antenna down flush when not in use.

For the camera, battery, and the switching regulator to run the works, I'll grab some EPP scrap and copy the canopy, then install all that stuff inside it. This way when I'm ready to do video I just swap canopies. This works great on my Twinstar, and with such a huge canopy on this thing I'm looking forwards to having a lot more room.

I'm not happy with my wing/flap servo pockets as the servos are still moving around a bit in them at full travel. I'm going to install some small basswood blocks on opposite sides of the servos, put a thin ply plate inside the covers, then drill through the covers down to the blocks.

This way, I'll use the beefed up covers to hold the servos in place via some small screws which reach down into the basswood blocks.
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Old Jun 30, 2007, 06:21 PM
Sweet!
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United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Jul 2001
2,803 Posts
I agree that you need to get that used digital camera working!
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Old Jun 30, 2007, 06:37 PM
ShOP loCAL FaRMers
Puget Sound Flyer's Avatar
Caffe-nation
Joined Jan 2004
647 Posts
Nearly done with my Cularis.

The H-stab/Elev assembly seems less than secure. The tounge that is supposed to latch the two sides together does not seem to latch/lock.

Has anyone else had this problem or did I just screw up the assembly?

PSF
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Last edited by Puget Sound Flyer; Jun 30, 2007 at 07:10 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2007, 07:57 PM
Cat Rack
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Lyle, WA
Joined Dec 2000
1,478 Posts
yup, i ran into this. you need to bias the button outwards a bit so the hook catches on the other end of it
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Old Jun 30, 2007, 08:04 PM
Sweet!
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United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Jul 2001
2,803 Posts
Yes, it looks like the locking mechanism needs some work. On the other hand, I have large gliders that have no locks at all and can slide off easily...and they never come loose in flight. They never even wiggle out at all. I guess it is because the forces are all up and down.
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Old Jul 01, 2007, 08:03 PM
Sink? Circling now to confirm.
JONBOYLEMON's Avatar
United States, UT, American Fork
Joined May 2002
16,674 Posts
I ordered the servo extensions from Hobby Horse with my kit and was surprised to find they were standard size wire. The tiny wire on the HS-55 is so small and light. Will I have a problem making up my own extensions out of servo wire same gauge as HS-55 wire???? I have plenty of wire. By problem I mean will small wire be enough to carry current out to servos that distance? Figure I could maybe save an ounce doing this. But will an ounce matter at all on this beast???? Lighter is almost always better though.

I will be powering with an AXI 2820/10 and CC 45 ESC. Hope I am not underpowered on 3 cells. Should be over 500 watts on 3S.
If I am I will have to go to 4 cells.

Still waiting for the build to see if anyone has any sweet mods. I really like the hinge for servo wires idea. Thanks Mtn Goat
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Old Jul 01, 2007, 08:34 PM
Sweet!
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United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Jul 2001
2,803 Posts
It is a long way from the receiver to the aileron servo. An ounce is no big deal on this ship. It isn't a lightweight. I'd choose a heavier gauge.

I'd also go with 4 cells...can't have too much power, just too little. You can always do throttle management if you have the extra muscle under your thumb ;>)

Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by JONBOYLEMON
I ordered the servo extensions from Hobby Horse with my kit and was surprised to find they were standard size wire. The tiny wire on the HS-55 is so small and light. Will I have a problem making up my own extensions out of servo wire same gauge as HS-55 wire???? I have plenty of wire. By problem I mean will small wire be enough to carry current out to servos that distance? Figure I could maybe save an ounce doing this. But will an ounce matter at all on this beast???? Lighter is almost always better though.

I will be powering with an AXI 2820/10 and CC 45 ESC. Hope I am not underpowered on 3 cells. Should be over 500 watts on 3S.
If I am I will have to go to 4 cells.

Still waiting for the build to see if anyone has any sweet mods. I really like the hinge for servo wires idea. Thanks Mtn Goat
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