Originally Posted by Watdazit

Thanks scirocco. Yes I am Aussie and actually live in Braidwood. I am also aware of HK but in flying helis the only thing I have bought from them to use on helis are batteries and I have had bad experiences in that is 25% of them have been duds. I have bought some foam planes and these generally I rate poor to average in quality but value for money. They are a great introduction to learning to fly cheaply. I have a lot to learn about the motor/prop/ battery combinations on planes. Helis are much easier in this regard. I might initially try one 4S and charge it at the field. Will I be ok with a 12 x 7 or 8 prop?
PS Link for Hacker didn't work. I looked at the Esprit Models site.

I have the turnigy G46 670kv in my high wing trainer which I use for instructing new pilots, on 4s it turns the turnigy 12x8x3 prop and draws nearly 60amps static, auw of about 2.5kg, this set up has heaps of power.

The specs on the G46 read like this lol 4s 14x7 and 5s 12x8.

It's like scirocco said, the lower the volts the more amps you pull, the higher the volts the lower the amps, volts x amps = watts, a motor can only make so many watts before it starts to get damaged, so if you know the watts then if you know one other value you can work out the last one.

Originally Posted by aeromaniac

I have the turnigy G46 670kv in my high wing trainer which I use for instructing new pilots, on 4s it turns the turnigy 12x8x3 prop and draws nearly 60amps static, auw of about 2.5kg, this set up has heaps of power.

Even on 3 blades 60A seems very high for Kv=670 on 4S. I'd have expected only about 45A. 60A seems more consistent with a Kv of about 770 - it's not a G32-770 is it? Or maybe the Turnigy Kvs just aren't that accurate.

Originally Posted by Watdazit

Thanks scirocco. Yes I am Aussie and actually live in Braidwood. I am also aware of HK but in flying helis the only thing I have bought from them to use on helis are batteries and I have had bad experiences in that is 25% of them have been duds. I have bought some foam planes and these generally I rate poor to average in quality but value for money. They are a great introduction to learning to fly cheaply. I have a lot to learn about the motor/prop/ battery combinations on planes. Helis are much easier in this regard. I might initially try one 4S and charge it at the field. Will I be ok with a 12 x 7 or 8 prop?
PS Link for Hacker didn't work. I looked at the Esprit Models site.

On a Power 46, 4S with an APC 12x8 you should draw about 33A/450W and develop around 2kg static thrust. If your Boomerang is the typical about 2.5-3kg, it will fly well, with good strong climb and basic aeros.

Originally Posted by scirocco

Even on 3 blades 60A seems very high for Kv=670 on 4S. I'd have expected only about 45A. 60A seems more consistent with a Kv of about 770 - it's not a G32-770 is it? Or maybe the Turnigy Kvs just aren't that accurate.

Good point, lol, not having another motor to test against makes you rely on the info you gather, that being said, I do know a club member with the G46 670kv and we tried the 12x8x3 on his plane and motor and it did seem to pull different.

I could not use my Emeter on his set up because he is using different connectors, mine is a G46 and labeled as 670kv, some motors have a 10% variation on kv in the specs.

Sorry guys a couple of more questions if I may.

Aeromaniac Talked of a 12 x 8 x 3. What does the 3 signify.

When I visited the LHS today I was told I have to use, for example, a 12 x 8"E "prop. This being a prop specifically for electric. No one has mentioned them in this thread. The "E" prop specifically says not to use on nitro. The props without the "E" do not say do not use with electric. Do I have to use an "E" prop?

Originally Posted by Watdazit

Sorry guys a couple of more questions if I may.

Aeromaniac Talked of a 12 x 8 x 3. What does the 3 signify.

When I visited the LHS today I was told I have to use, for example, a 12 x 8"E "prop. This being a prop specifically for electric. No one has mentioned them in this thread. The "E" prop specifically says not to use on nitro. The props without the "E" do not say do not use with electric. Do I have to use an "E" prop?

No, but you'll probably do better with the e prop, and they have neat locating rings that centre them very well on electric motor prop adapters, which mostly aren't the 1/4 shaft of a glow engine.

the 3 represents 3 blades. Generally used where you just like 3 bladers, or diameter is a limit and you want a bit more blade area to absorb some more power - do a comparison in ecalc to see the difference.

btw, which LHS from Braidwood?

Originally Posted by scirocco

btw, which LHS from Braidwood?

Monaro Models in Fyshwick, who I see were visited by a ram raider. Nice guys there and always very helpful. As I am on the learning curve I like to double check. I also deal with Jan and Paul at Nitrodude but they are a bit far away. Paul has been very helpful as well.

Thanks for the other info.

I am longing to get my Boomerang into the air but I have been beset with problems. I tried to set up the C of G to suit some batteries I already have however the position of the batteries to give me the right C of G were over the top of the servos and that will not work. All of my existing batteries are high mAh to suit power hungry helicopters. I ordered a lighter 4S and 5S from HK to test for C of G and flying. I also moved the motor back from 50mm from the firewall to 30mm from the firewall. The C of G using the HK batteries was perfect with the batteries where the fuel tank would go. I set about charging the 4S and the positive wire came away from the battery. Another HK failure!! It could not be repaired as it was the aluminium tab which came off. Soldering aluminium is not something I would trust. It is a waste of time making a warrenty claim. Firstly it will cost me about $25 in postage costs and about 4 weeks for HK to do anything. The battery is only worth about $22 so I ordered another one.

What is worse however, a friends dog put its paws through one wing and try as I can I cannot get Monokote to stick to the existing covering, even with sanding it and a primer applied first. This is my first attempt at using anyform of iron on film. Someone has told me that the Boomerang covering is such that if I am to use Monokote I will have to strip the whole wing and start again. Has anyone any experience on repairing Boomerang covering?

Try packing tape and wrapping it aroung the le so air and fuel wont lift it up (althuogh you wont have to worry bout fuel)

Mate sorry to hear about your problems. I was wondering how it was going.

For the sake of getting her flying, I agree, go the packing tape. I managed to puncture my leading edge covering in the car and packing tape is a good temporary permanent fix

With the right kit and some care you can solder to the AL tabs without too much trouble.

I have a couple of ARFs, the covering isn't monocote or anything compatible on either, you can packing-tape on a patch of monocote or something else, or just tape over the hole.

Thanks for the advice on ping up. Unfortuneatly I am beyond that sort of repair. The dog put its paws through 2 panels a panel apart. I stripped the area over three panels before my attempt to fix it.

A square of anything and packing tape will, seriously, fix that right up. Or just packing tape.

If you wanted to be 'thorough' you could go from the left, go over the 1st bay and then pull the tape down and attach it to the balsa piece, then cover the next bay the same way, last bay just go over the top. heck, then mask it and spray paint it white...

Originally Posted by Watdazit

Thanks for the advice on ping up. Unfortuneatly I am beyond that sort of repair. The dog put its paws through 2 panels a panel apart. I stripped the area over three panels before my attempt to fix it.

Don't know how well it would work, but what about using tape to stick white covering around the hole. Covering iron should stick it to the ribs. Then shrink very gently. Tape should be strong in shear, which will be what the shrinking will cause