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Old Jun 26, 2007, 10:22 AM
gpw
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Epp Dart with Aquarider fuse... Post# 905
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Old Jun 26, 2007, 03:32 PM
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EPP Yuk 54

Here is another one that started out with FFF but was adopted for EPP. The video is amazing. the pilot is hovering the YUK 54 indoors with so much stability he actually lays the radio down while it continues to hover on it's own!!!!

This site includes plans and video (post #2).
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194431

Here is the post from this thread with an epp version.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=470
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Last edited by leadfeather; Jun 27, 2007 at 07:23 AM.
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 07:10 AM
gpw
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Here's a trick .... All those EPP scraps left over from other projects can be edged glued together into sheets again (UHU) and made into a workable plane ...why waste all those odd size bits ...
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpw
Here's a trick .... All those EPP scraps left over from other projects can be edged glued together into sheets again (UHU) and made into a workable plane ...why waste all those odd size bits ...
Mosaic foam planes. I think this brings frugal building to a new level!!! Beaing a cheap skate myself, I say great idea!
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 11:27 AM
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Dan, I've dug up a couple of other posts that might be of use to people. BTW, thanks for all the time and effort you're putting into this thread, it's very much appreciated.

Sloper Steve's Strategic Strapping : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2427

The Bevel Method I Use : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5003

Another thing that's obvious to scratchbuilders but is sometimes overlooked by newbies : When you're using a slow drying glue use sewing pins to hold joints together while they dry. You can often carry on working on the model without having to wait overnight for the glue to dry, and the holes magically dissapear in EPP when you remove the pins.
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firetrappe
Dan, I've dug up a couple of other posts that might be of use to people. BTW, thanks for all the time and effort you're putting into this thread, it's very much appreciated.

Sloper Steve's Strategic Strapping : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2427

The Bevel Method I Use : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5003

Another thing that's obvious to scratchbuilders but is sometimes overlooked by newbies : When you're using a slow drying glue use sewing pins to hold joints together while they dry. You can often carry on working on the model without having to wait overnight for the glue to dry, and the holes magically dissapear in EPP when you remove the pins.
Thanks for the great info!!! Just posted it to the appropriate sections.

Here is my (similar) tip for slow glues:

I use a very little bit of CA at the ends of the glue joint instead of the pins to hold the foam during curing. When applying the slow glue, leave a little bare spot for the CA. Apply the CA to these bare spots. Spray a little accelerator on the mating piece where the CA drops will contact. Bring the pieces together and hold for a few seconds while the CA sets up and 'voila' its held together securely while the slow glue dries and no worries about the pins coming out or the foam moving.
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 06:23 PM
gpw
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We found CA to be a bit brittle for EPP and would fail down the line .... a better alternative is the more flexible adhesives like UHU, GWS glue , or hot glue , our favorite...just our preference if your flying skill is less than perfect
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 06:45 PM
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don't forget to mention that Welder glue.
I don't think there is better out there and the others usually cost more.
There may be one of the UHU's not tested they have so many.
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sloper steve
don't forget to mention that Welder glue.
I don't think there is better out there and the others usually cost more.
There may be one of the UHU's not tested they have so many.
Thanks! Already posted in the glue section!
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 06:54 PM
gpw
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Steve, your tape worked out SO well for EPP , I know your recommended glue must be terrific too ... I'll order some from you straight away..
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpw
We found CA to be a bit brittle for EPP and would fail down the line .... a better alternative is the more flexible adhesives like UHU, GWS glue , or hot glue , our favorite...just our preference if your flying skill is less than perfect
This technique is 99% urethane glue (my favorite...Sumo) and 1% CA at the ends to hold instead of pins.

I might do a video clip for clarity.
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 07:22 PM
Build 2 Bounce!
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Good tip LF, I used to use 'Chemical Pinning' back in my balsa days. I've never tried it on EPP, i'll have to get the kicker out and give it a go. I use welder for 99% of my builds now (epoxy for control horns), I used to use UHU POR (Creativ in the US) but much prefer Welder now, even though have to import it.

BTW, I sent Dekan a roll of the infamous EPP tape and he likes it too
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Old Jun 27, 2007, 07:31 PM
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Yup Tried and like it Sticky...!
Thanks Si
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Old Jun 28, 2007, 06:57 AM
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I recieved my Sloper Steve tape. I did a little expereiment. I cut two strips of epp, 3/4" wide by 12" long. On one strip I applied the tape top and bottom. What a difference in stiffness!!!

Holding each of the two strips from one end only in my fingers, the no tape strip droops a lot. The taped strip... straight as an arrow.

Probably not as strong as carbon rod stiffening, but who cares as long as it is strong enough. Way easier to apply and lighter than adding carbon spars.

Sticks to epp as advertised. Two thumbs up!
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Old Jun 28, 2007, 07:01 AM
gpw
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... and flexes with the airframe instead of catching on something and tearing the EPP...as with CF spars ... besides being much cheaper and safer than that nasty CF...
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