EPP Sources, building tips, tricks, links and free plans - Page 4

gpw · Jun 26, 2007, 10:22 AM

Epp Dart with Aquarider fuse... Post# 905

leadfeather · Jun 26, 2007, 03:32 PM

Here is another one that started out with FFF but was adopted for EPP. The video is amazing. the pilot is hovering the YUK 54 indoors with so much stability he actually lays the radio down while it continues to hover on it's own!!!!

This site includes plans and video (post #2).
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194431

Here is the post from this thread with an epp version.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=470

gpw · Jun 27, 2007, 07:10 AM

Here's a trick .... All those EPP scraps left over from other projects can be edged glued together into sheets again (UHU) and made into a workable plane ...why waste all those odd size bits ...

leadfeather · Jun 27, 2007, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gpw

Here's a trick .... All those EPP scraps left over from other projects can be edged glued together into sheets again (UHU) and made into a workable plane ...why waste all those odd size bits ...

Mosaic foam planes.

I think this brings frugal building to a new level!!!

Beaing a cheap skate myself, I say great idea!

firetrappe · Jun 27, 2007, 11:27 AM

Dan, I've dug up a couple of other posts that might be of use to people. BTW, thanks for all the time and effort you're putting into this thread, it's very much appreciated.

Sloper Steve's Strategic Strapping : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2427

The Bevel Method I Use : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5003

Another thing that's obvious to scratchbuilders but is sometimes overlooked by newbies : When you're using a slow drying glue use sewing pins to hold joints together while they dry. You can often carry on working on the model without having to wait overnight for the glue to dry, and the holes magically dissapear in EPP when you remove the pins.

leadfeather · Jun 27, 2007, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firetrappe

Dan, I've dug up a couple of other posts that might be of use to people. BTW, thanks for all the time and effort you're putting into this thread, it's very much appreciated.

Sloper Steve's Strategic Strapping : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2427

The Bevel Method I Use : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5003

Another thing that's obvious to scratchbuilders but is sometimes overlooked by newbies : When you're using a slow drying glue use sewing pins to hold joints together while they dry. You can often carry on working on the model without having to wait overnight for the glue to dry, and the holes magically dissapear in EPP when you remove the pins.

Thanks for the great info!!! Just posted it to the appropriate sections.

Here is my (similar) tip for slow glues:

I use a very little bit of CA at the ends of the glue joint instead of the pins to hold the foam during curing. When applying the slow glue, leave a little bare spot for the CA. Apply the CA to these bare spots. Spray a little accelerator on the mating piece where the CA drops will contact. Bring the pieces together and hold for a few seconds while the CA sets up and 'voila' its held together securely while the slow glue dries and no worries about the pins coming out or the foam moving.

gpw · Jun 27, 2007, 06:23 PM

We found CA to be a bit brittle for EPP and would fail down the line .... a better alternative is the more flexible adhesives like UHU, GWS glue , or hot glue , our favorite...just our preference if your flying skill is less than perfect

sloper steve · Jun 27, 2007, 06:45 PM

don't forget to mention that Welder glue.
I don't think there is better out there and the others usually cost more.
There may be one of the UHU's not tested they have so many.

leadfeather · Jun 27, 2007, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sloper steve

don't forget to mention that Welder glue.
I don't think there is better out there and the others usually cost more.
There may be one of the UHU's not tested they have so many.

Thanks! Already posted in the glue section!

gpw · Jun 27, 2007, 06:54 PM

Steve, your tape worked out SO well for EPP , I know your recommended glue must be terrific too ... I'll order some from you straight away..

leadfeather · Jun 27, 2007, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gpw

We found CA to be a bit brittle for EPP and would fail down the line .... a better alternative is the more flexible adhesives like UHU, GWS glue , or hot glue , our favorite...just our preference if your flying skill is less than perfect

This technique is 99% urethane glue (my favorite...Sumo) and 1% CA at the ends to hold instead of pins.

I might do a video clip for clarity.

firetrappe · Jun 27, 2007, 07:22 PM

Good tip LF, I used to use 'Chemical Pinning' back in my balsa days. I've never tried it on EPP, i'll have to get the kicker out and give it a go. I use welder for 99% of my builds now (epoxy for control horns), I used to use UHU POR (Creativ in the US) but much prefer Welder now, even though have to import it.

BTW, I sent Dekan a roll of the infamous EPP tape and he likes it too

dekan · Jun 27, 2007, 07:31 PM

Yup Tried and like it Sticky...!
Thanks Si

leadfeather · Jun 28, 2007, 06:57 AM

I recieved my Sloper Steve tape. I did a little expereiment. I cut two strips of epp, 3/4" wide by 12" long. On one strip I applied the tape top and bottom. What a difference in stiffness!!!

Holding each of the two strips from one end only in my fingers, the no tape strip droops a lot. The taped strip... straight as an arrow.

Probably not as strong as carbon rod stiffening, but who cares as long as it is strong enough. Way easier to apply and lighter than adding carbon spars.

Sticks to epp as advertised. Two thumbs up!

gpw · Jun 28, 2007, 07:01 AM

... and flexes with the airframe instead of catching on something and tearing the EPP...as with CF spars ... besides being much cheaper and safer than that nasty CF...

Jun 26, 2007, 10:22 AM	#46
gpw Foamie Guy Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: the remains of New Orleans Posts: 19,092	Epp Dart with Aquarider fuse... Post# 905 Attached Thumbnails 32.0 KB · Views: 1200

Jun 26, 2007, 03:32 PM	#47
leadfeather There's no place like foam... Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 4,323	EPP Yuk 54 Here is another one that started out with FFF but was adopted for EPP. The video is amazing. the pilot is hovering the YUK 54 indoors with so much stability he actually lays the radio down while it continues to hover on it's own!!!! This site includes plans and video (post #2). http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194431 Here is the post from this thread with an epp version. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=470 Attached Images Yuk 54 Last edited by leadfeather; Jun 27, 2007 at 07:23 AM.

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Jun 27, 2007, 07:10 AM	#48
gpw Foamie Guy Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: the remains of New Orleans Posts: 19,092	Here's a trick .... All those EPP scraps left over from other projects can be edged glued together into sheets again (UHU) and made into a workable plane ...why waste all those odd size bits ...

Jun 27, 2007, 11:27 AM	#50
firetrappe Build 2 Bounce! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Birmingham, UK Posts: 1,580	Dan, I've dug up a couple of other posts that might be of use to people. BTW, thanks for all the time and effort you're putting into this thread, it's very much appreciated. Sloper Steve's Strategic Strapping : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2427 The Bevel Method I Use : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5003 Another thing that's obvious to scratchbuilders but is sometimes overlooked by newbies : When you're using a slow drying glue use sewing pins to hold joints together while they dry. You can often carry on working on the model without having to wait overnight for the glue to dry, and the holes magically dissapear in EPP when you remove the pins.

Jun 27, 2007, 06:23 PM	#52
gpw Foamie Guy Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: the remains of New Orleans Posts: 19,092	We found CA to be a bit brittle for EPP and would fail down the line .... a better alternative is the more flexible adhesives like UHU, GWS glue , or hot glue , our favorite...just our preference if your flying skill is less than perfect

Jun 27, 2007, 06:45 PM	#53
sloper steve Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: America the ruling country Posts: 3,186	don't forget to mention that Welder glue. I don't think there is better out there and the others usually cost more. There may be one of the UHU's not tested they have so many.

Jun 27, 2007, 06:54 PM	#55
gpw Foamie Guy Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: the remains of New Orleans Posts: 19,092	Steve, your tape worked out SO well for EPP , I know your recommended glue must be terrific too ... I'll order some from you straight away..

Jun 27, 2007, 07:22 PM	#57
firetrappe Build 2 Bounce! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Birmingham, UK Posts: 1,580	Good tip LF, I used to use 'Chemical Pinning' back in my balsa days. I've never tried it on EPP, i'll have to get the kicker out and give it a go. I use welder for 99% of my builds now (epoxy for control horns), I used to use UHU POR (Creativ in the US) but much prefer Welder now, even though have to import it. BTW, I sent Dekan a roll of the infamous EPP tape and he likes it too

Jun 27, 2007, 07:31 PM	#58
dekan D'oh.. Dumb Left Thumb Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: London, UK Posts: 4,593	Yup Tried and like it Sticky...! Thanks Si

Jun 28, 2007, 06:57 AM	#59
leadfeather There's no place like foam... Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 4,323	I recieved my Sloper Steve tape. I did a little expereiment. I cut two strips of epp, 3/4" wide by 12" long. On one strip I applied the tape top and bottom. What a difference in stiffness!!! Holding each of the two strips from one end only in my fingers, the no tape strip droops a lot. The taped strip... straight as an arrow. Probably not as strong as carbon rod stiffening, but who cares as long as it is strong enough. Way easier to apply and lighter than adding carbon spars. Sticks to epp as advertised. Two thumbs up!

Jun 28, 2007, 07:01 AM	#60
gpw Foamie Guy Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: the remains of New Orleans Posts: 19,092	... and flexes with the airframe instead of catching on something and tearing the EPP...as with CF spars ... besides being much cheaper and safer than that nasty CF...