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Old Oct 31, 2007, 09:36 PM
Make something. Anything!
bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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So Far

Here is what we have so far. Every wire from the rectifier back is accounted for. However,.... there are still two more lugs left on the Bridge rectifier.
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Last edited by bgriggs; Oct 31, 2007 at 09:45 PM.
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Old Oct 31, 2007, 10:13 PM
Make something. Anything!
bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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The output side of the bridge rectifier

There are two lugs remaining on the bridge rectifier, one marked "+" and one marked "-". When the transformer is plugged in and the 24V current passes through the bridge rectifier input side, the voltage is increased approximately 1.41 times (so roughly 34.8V ). After that the current goes into a BFC (Big Freakin Capacitor) which smooths out the current....... That is the extent of my knowledge on the subject. Check with your local electronics guru for more exciting details.
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Old Oct 31, 2007, 10:28 PM
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Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Capacitor harness

I found it easier to permanantly connect the bleed resistor to the wires.
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Old Nov 01, 2007, 10:07 PM
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Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Component layout

It is important to make sure everything fits in the box with room to spare. I installed the fan and guard at the front of the box. I then made sure the Pro board fit right behind it.

I used a dremel with a 1/8" drill bit to drill a series of holes in a circle pattern for the Fan cut out. I then used an hobby knife to smooth out the hole. I used the step drill to make the grommet holes for the stepper wires and limit switches.
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Old Nov 01, 2007, 10:25 PM
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bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Capacitor Mount

I used one of the many divider trays to mount the Capacitor. I drilled a few holes in the back of the divider and the a couple in the bottom. I then used some zip ties to secure the capacitor first to the divider and later to the box itself.
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Old Nov 05, 2007, 12:50 PM
.: Looking for Thermals :.
Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
872 Posts
What software are you using for those sketches?
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Old Nov 05, 2007, 05:13 PM
Make something. Anything!
bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo RW
What software are you using for those sketches?
The software is an old program called drawingboard from Ashlar. http://www.ashlar.com. Drawingboard was a limited function version of Vellum, their flagship program (at the time). Now they have much more expensive programs that I drool over......$$$$. I will use drawingboard until I can't run it on a modern machine.
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Old Nov 06, 2007, 11:24 PM
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bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Capacitor output side.

Now that the capacitor is mounted to the Divider plate we can continue with the wiring. I used solderless connectors to attach a red and black wire to the posite and negative lugs of the capacitor. A screw holds both the capacitor harness and the output wires to the lugs. Electrical tape should be used to cover the bare connections to prevent accidental short circuits.
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Old Nov 07, 2007, 10:42 PM
Make something. Anything!
bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Bridge Rectifier

I mounted the bridge rectifier to the side of the case with a screw and three nuts. The double nuts on the bottom of the screw let me create a standoff for the rectifier. The standoff allows cooling air around the rectifier.
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Old Nov 09, 2007, 11:59 PM
Make something. Anything!
bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Mounting the fan and driver board.

The provided 24V brushless fan is a little confusing to wire. There are 3 wires Red, Black & Yellow. The yellow wire is not needed for our setup. The Red and Black wires are attached to the circuit board.

Next I finalized the location of the circuit board and drilled the mounting holes. The board is raised above the floor of the case with plastic standoffs.
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 12:35 AM
MSgt, USAF Ret.
Jim Frahm's Avatar
USA, WA, Spokane
Joined Nov 2003
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bgriggs,

Great thread! I've been looking for a set up like this; if looking turns to buying I'll go with the same manufacture thanks to your build thread.

If the fan is a ture brushless fan, then all three wires are needed, if not, then the yellow wire is used to measure rpms.

Keep up the great work,

Jim
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 10:22 AM
Make something. Anything!
bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catch-Air
bgriggs,

Great thread! I've been looking for a set up like this; if looking turns to buying I'll go with the same manufacture thanks to your build thread.

If the fan is a ture brushless fan, then all three wires are needed, if not, then the yellow wire is used to measure rpms.

Keep up the great work,

Jim
Thanks Jim,

I knew about the yellow wire but figured it was confusing enough without bringing fan speed into it.

Bill
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Old Nov 11, 2007, 03:24 PM
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Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Printer cable

The included printer cable has to be routed around the divider tab to the rear of the case. I split the grommet in two and put it over the Printer cable. The grommet is to stop the case edge from cutting into the wire of the cable.

I needed a hole for the printer cable to pass through. Here is the easiest way to do this. Use the step drill to drill a hole for the grommet. Next, take a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut a thin slot through the lip of the case down to the hoie. The slit allows you to bend the case enough to slip the cable and grommet into place. The slit look much better than the butcher job I did.
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Old Nov 11, 2007, 05:21 PM
Make something. Anything!
bgriggs's Avatar
Syracuse Hancock, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Finishing up the control box.

Before you wire the stepper motors to the HobbyCNC Pro board, you should test the power supply. To test the power supply, disconnect the output leads from TB6 and use a volt meter to measure the voltage. The voltage should be between 30 to 36 volts. Mine read 32.8V. Turn the power off and take a break for at least 10 minutes to allow the bleed resistor to drain the capacitor.

While you are waiting you can squeeze the wires from the stepper motors through the grommets on the front of the case. Don't connect the wires yet but you can strip the wires.

When you are certain the Capacitor has discharged you can connect the wire from the stepper motors to the Pro board. The instruction sheet contains information on how to hook up just about any stepper.
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Old Nov 19, 2007, 12:34 AM
That motor isn't hot...
rosco's Avatar
Brisbane, Australia
Joined Aug 2005
425 Posts
I keep poping back to have a look. Still lov'n it.
Looks like the good stuff is about to start...
cheers
roscop
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