The next items added are the 6 position terminal blocks. These are easy to install because the pins are far apart. The only part you might screw up is if you didn't read the directions and had the holes facing in. The proper way to install these connectors is to have the holes facing out.

The two position terminal blocks go on next. Again, make sure the holes face out. Trim the leads after you solder them in place.

The adjustable voltage regulator can easily be mistaken for the for the other voltage regulator. Take out your magnifying glass and verify that you have the LM317HV and not the LM317. If you get this wrong you will probably screw up the board.

The Voltage regulator tab should be oriented to face the broad white band silk screened on the board.

The LM317 can then be soldered into the U5 holes.

The 24V voltage regulator 7824CV is soldered into the U6 holes. Since you don't want heat to build up and possibly ruin the chip, alternate soldering the legs from one end of the chip to the other and also alternate sides. The idea is not to have the heated iron concentrated on one spot on the chip for very long.

Bill,

Thank you again for the continue tutorial, I have never put together a board before and I have very little experience with the components, so voltage regulators and TB6 and TB7 I don't know what they look like, so I have to compare the new picture to the previews picture to find the component - at first it was easy, but now that the board is getting fuller is becoming harder... how about a discreet line pointing to the component? or pointing wit a pen when taking the picture or laying the component next to board... I don't want to put you out and again, thank you for sharing

Jose

Next. Really BIG capacitors. The 680uF capacitors are next and they have a polarity. Long lead is for positive. Don't forget to trim the leads.

Time to take a break. The board is now ready for the voltage testing. I will explain that in a little more detail in the next installment.

Originally Posted by jeb

Bill,

Thank you again for the continue tutorial, I have never put together a board before and I have very little experience with the components, so voltage regulators and TB6 and TB7 I don't know what they look like, so I have to compare the new picture to the previews picture to find the component - at first it was easy, but now that the board is getting fuller is becoming harder... how about a discreet line pointing to the component? or pointing wit a pen when taking the picture or laying the component next to board... I don't want to put you out and again, thank you for sharing

Jose

I thought about that. I will see if this computer has a photo editor.

Bill

You will need a voltmeter for this step. First, connect the power supply (at least 12V) to the Terminal block TB6. The negative lead on the voltmeter should touch the "-" terminal on TB6. The positive lead should touch the pad labeled +5VDC. The meter should read voltage between +5VDC and +5.2VDC. As long as the voltage reading is in this range, it is OK to proceed with construction.

If you get a reading outside these parameters something is wrong and you should not proceed until you have found the problem. The most common problem is a solder bridge between two pads. The easiest way to correct this is to re-flow each joint with the hot soldering iron. Use a magnifying glass to double check your work.

If you don't fix the problem, you will blow the driver chips the first time you connect the power.

The hex inverter chips are a 14 PIN I.C. I used the method described earlier to avoid over heating the chip. Switch back and forth between pins. The Inverter must be oriented properly. Match the notch on the chip end with the silk screen on the circuit board. Trim the leads.

Install the driver chips next. The pins will only fit in one direction. It may be necessary to straighten the pins slightly before inserting them into the board. I found it easiest to begin inserting the pins by tipping the chip and starting the first two pins on the chip on the right hand side and then gradually inserting the rest of the pins into the holes as you lower the pins towards the left.

I alternated the soldering on the pins to keep down heat. Then I trimmed the leads.

alternating the solder joints will help prevent heat from building up and burning out the chip.

Clean the PCB with alcohol or a flux remover. Also inspect all the solder joints with a magnifying glass to prevent solder bridges. Take your time and examine every joint. Most failures are caused by solder bridges.

Ive got mine to power up with the power supply i made from a computer power supply. the steppers work just fine. they hold their position waiting for some input from the puter. make sure you read all the warnings and notes like dont unhook any wire from the steppers with power on. and i believe there are some that will. the towers are ready. iam short a keyboard and software. hmm heres a pic of mine . it had onboard temp control but iam using a feathercut powerrsupply. ok heres a pic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! read all the instructions over and over and understand all what its telling you before you go. i was new to puttin together the stuff and it was real simple.Briggs make yourself a controller chip cooler similar to mine.And the fan blows the air into the box not out of the top.

The basic circuit board is finished but there are still a few touches to add to give a fully functional control.

An aluminum heat sink is needed for the driver chips. I first scribed a line 1/4" up from the bottom of the heat sink. Then I used aligator clips from the third hand tool to hold the heat sink in place on the driver chips. I then took a Sharpie marker and marked the location of the center of each mounting hole in the driver chips. Then I removed the heat sink and center punched each mark. Next I drilled holes through the heat sink and used a 4-40 tap and cutting fluid to tap the holes. I deburred the holes, put a little heat sink compound on the driver chip lugs and mounted the heat sink with 4-40 screws.