Originally Posted by Roger Lombard

The numbers on the bell motor variants seem very inconsistent but here it suggests that a) you need the "Y" version to swing the bigger prop at reasonable amps but b) that whichever way you cut you're running at less than 100W which isn't going to set a 40" span bird on fire for performance?

http://www.unitedhobbies.com/unitedh.../tp_motor.html

I get confused because although the chart shows the triangle against the higher KV and "Y" wind against the lower KV (but torquier) motor, when you get them in your hand one has a triangle symbol on it and one has a star. The star version seems to be the higher KV. Anyone help me here?

I look forward to seeing the results of your test Pat because at the moment I think, in the words of the immortal Irishman, if I was going where you want to go I wouldn't be starting from here at all, at all.

I don't think either of your options is going to haul in the P-40 but we shall see. Hurry up - I need to know what I should use

WHOOOOPS! CORRECTION - I just re-read your post Pat and see you said 2215, I'd read it originally as 2212 so disregard above. 2215 seems to be working OK in Tallflyer's plane. I'm thinking either GWS 2215, KD A22-15M or TP2409-12 or 18. I think the GWS would be the lower performer out of this choice?

I run the KDA 22-15M and KDA 22-10L on both 2s and 3s setups. Here are my findings so far:

KDA 22-15M is perfect for 2s with a 90x75 HD GWS prop running around 15-16 amps(caution with this setup the motor must have good airflow to keep cool.

KDA 22-15M on 3s runs great with a 80x60 HD GWS prop


Here is my data from peakeff for the KDA 22-15M 2s with a variety of motors:
http://www.peakeff.com/GraphKIR.aspx...tle=KDA+22-15M

Same idea as above but with 3s setup:
http://www.peakeff.com/GraphKIR.aspx...tle=KDA+22-15M

The only advantage to using the KDA 22-10L is the amp range goes up

Best of luck deciding

oh yeah I have the A22-15M in a TM400(2s) and PT-17(3s) and the A22-10L in my F4U (2s)

Originally Posted by tallflyer

Flight report:

.......
Slows down nice for landings also for my overall rating I give her a 100% thumbs up. this as I said before is my first full size GWS warbird and Im hooked!

I flew her for about 20 minutes using the 2 packs I have and WOW she looks so beautiful in the air (I had a tear in my eye) ok just a dry contact.

This plane is not for a first time pilot but if you can fly the standard GWS warbirds you will love this plane!

Plane can be flown in a school yard or a football sized area with no problem the more space the better.

Thanks GWS!

Thank you very much for your report. Congratulations !
It's a great maiden !

Chen

Roger,

Since I have both a 2409-12T and a 2215-12T sitting idle, I will be testing both and will provide numbers on my build thread.

I did a quick run of the 2409-12T 2 nights ago. Looking at about 32A static, 300 or so watts on a TP 2070 3S eXtreme lipo. My ESC is only rated to 30A, so we'll see what the 2215 gives me.

Pat

Has anyone had any cooling problems with their T-6? The top 1/2 inch deep by 1 inch wide section of my cowling that overlaps the firewall keeps heat warping. I drilled three 1/4 inch holes right ahead of the firewall as well as several in the bottom too. I'm using a A20-22L Hacker clone with a 1060 GWS DD prop and a 3 cell lipo. I usually fly at about half throttle and never had this problem with any other planes before including my GWS Corsairs.

Bill

Originally Posted by Bill Lesko

Has anyone had any cooling problems with their T-6? The top 1/2 inch deep by 1 inch wide section of my cowling that overlaps the firewall keeps heat warping. I drilled three 1/4 inch holes right ahead of the firewall as well as several in the bottom too. I'm using a A20-22L Hacker clone with a 1060 GWS DD prop and a 3 cell lipo. I usually fly at about half throttle and never had this problem with any other planes before including my GWS Corsairs.

Bill

I had this problem with my GWS-38 cowls because I left the model out in hot bright sunlight. The section at the rear top of the cowls warped. I am now very carefull not not leave my GWS models in direct sunlight

Ken

Just curious, when might we see these available at EPYAYA or other vendors?

Bill, never had my AT-6 cowl warp from motor heat, but it did sit in the sun too long in the car one day, and the section painted black (anti-glare) started to wrinkle up at the end.

Malibu, the first major production run is going at the factory now. Then a container will go out. I'd say 3 weeks or so before Epyaya gets them.

Pat

Col. Robert L. Baseler "Stud" BF-109 killer!

I got the majority of the fuse painted today. Working on learning to freehand with the airbrush.

Tommy D

Originally Posted by Tommy D

Col. Robert L. Baseler "Stud" BF-109 killer!

I got the majority of the fuse painted today. Working on learning to freehand with the airbrush.

Tommy D

Looking good what spinner and prop combo are you using!

Thanks for the kind words. I'm not sold on it yet. I guess you never are till you get some of the detailing done.

I grabbed a prop from my field box for the photo, it's a 10x10E.

If I maiden the model on a 3S Ill keep the 10x10. However if the maiden is on the 4S then it will be a 9x9.

The Spinner is the Great Planes 76mm job with plastic backplate. Nice and pointy.

Tommy D

Thanks for the cowl warping input guys. You know, I never really knew when the cowl warped the two times it did. I just assumed it was caused by in flight motor heat. However, the cowling is very thin, painted black on top and it sits out in the hot sun for several hours at a time at the flying field. It just may be the sun doing it. I wish somebody in the states would get replacement cowlings in stock. I really don't want to start shopping in China for replacement parts.

Bill

Its definitely the sun, my 262 canopies shrunk in the sun and pulled away from the fuse! Then the nosecone started to deform, now I cover all my GWS models with a cloth when they are sitting out on the field.

I agree. After spraying mine I put it in the sun, came back and the canopy was all curled up away from the fuselage on my 262. THey are ok at the feild because they stay in a shed untill ready for flight.

After about 3 years of reading about this problem, experiencing it myself, and pleading in a couple of posts to GWS in this forum to find a better plastic that is not so thermo-plastic at these low temperatures, it is very disheartening to see this is STILL a problem with the new improved kits!

For P40 flyers, GWS 30XX BL motor or RB2045 with gear down would be another choice for whom love over power!