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Old Jan 08, 2013, 11:23 AM
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If you make the wings longer, don't you have to make them bigger (front to back), too?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 12:41 PM
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United States, WI, Kenosha
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I was going to make a new leading edge, Trailing edge is going to be a learning experience I think.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Coal Miner Clean View Post
I was going to make a new leading edge, Trailing edge is going to be a learning experience I think.
No need to that. If you stay within the limits of the stock wing chord.
I'd say 12" and maybe as much as 18" wider span shouldn't need any other mods to the wing. How much wider span can you live it?
The way to do it is dry fit a wing set, then with the 2 wings halve from another eagle you spread them on top of the together set and see how far you can spread them and get a blending point compromise between leading and trailing edge. That would be your cut and rejoin point. If I recall a 6 foot wing span was pretty easy to accomplish.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 02:05 PM
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Hi Guys,
I bought 2 eagle kits last November so really can't comment on how they fly other than a short maiden flight in way too much wind. It ended well so I tried to paint it, thats another story.

I laid out the 2 sets of wings to see what the wingspan would be. 102 inches from feathertip to feathertip is about the maximum if you trim off the angled part.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:23 PM
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You laid it out but not what I meant, if you take the widest point of the painted wing and bring it closer to the fuse so the wide part continues from one wing to the other then there is your maximum with little work to do other than splice them together at that point. The pic just shows an approximate join point.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:47 PM
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Thank you for the layout pictures. I can hardly wait for my order to get here from Taiwan. When do we come over and start cutting & gluing? Ha Ha
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:58 PM
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Enjoy the fun Coal Miner.
Thanks to Johnny Five for the pics and that my explanation in the pic makes more sense.
It's all about blending the trailing edge to make the longer wing span. Right where they meet at the line is where you would cut the lower wing and cut the upper wing straight so they almost look like one piece and then respar and glue. This kind of mod just takes allot of forethought before making the commitment. Think twice, measure twice and then still hesitate to make the cut...
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:11 PM
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I laid it out to measure max wingspan possible with the wing parts of 2 eagles. You won't see me modifying my eagle until I get some flight time in with this one stock. I will definitly be watching for your results though.
If I was to do any cutting on the wings I would just cut the trailing edge off and shift that around, maybe add an extra inch or two at that time also.
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Last edited by Johnny Five; Jan 08, 2013 at 04:42 PM. Reason: add another pic
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 04:37 AM
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Hi Johnny Five & microDan,
" I would just make a new leading edge and longer fuselage." with the given that the backside of the wing feathers would be 90% new design, giving me 100 - 112" total length. Following the steel rule...neet pics.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:26 AM
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I think you might get enough authority for a bigger bird from the stock tail feathers if you stiffened them, and used stiffer and preferably shorter push rods. Either use carbon strips set in perpendicular to the surface, or thin carbon rods or string and cyano glue, set in shallow slots in pairs on opposite sides of the surface. It then has to stretch one of them to bend, which isn't easy.

I like ball joints, at least at one end of push rods, to get a nice slop free connection (though that's not how I did my Eagle). With just clevises at each end, you tend to get some resistance near full throw, due to something having to bend - either the servo arm, push rod or control horn. Either that, or you have to introduce more slop to avoid the bending.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy2No View Post
I think you might get enough authority for a bigger bird from the stock tail feathers if you stiffened them, and used stiffer and preferably shorter push rods. Either use carbon strips set in perpendicular to the surface, or thin carbon rods or string and cyano glue, set in shallow slots in pairs on opposite sides of the surface. It then has to stretch one of them to bend, which isn't easy.

I like ball joints, at least at one end of push rods, to get a nice slop free connection (though that's not how I did my Eagle). With just clevises at each end, you tend to get some resistance near full throw, due to something having to bend - either the servo arm, push rod or control horn. Either that, or you have to introduce more slop to avoid the bending.
+1 Excellent points of info.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 02:31 PM
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can you help me with instruction
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 02:37 PM
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can you help me with instruction
Concerning what? We're all here to help, just be more specific please.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 02:39 PM
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Matbe you were looking for the build manual online.
Here you go....
Online build thread
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 01:54 AM
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Jan 2013
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Hi all

I have the non fly party eagle (put down those rocks please! lol) and it flies like a dream. very happy with it.

i just received the 'official / original' fly party eagle. bought a pre-painted version and seems like a nice quality cut. i cant wait to get it up in the air and compare it to the other product.

One thing that threw me though is that the fly party original version does not have ailerons on it, but the other one i have has ailerons. go figure?

so i searched this thread to see if people had added ailerons on their fly party version and it doesn't look like anyone has talked about it?

sooo.. has anyone added ailerons to their wing on the original fly party version? if so, i'd be keen to hear your thoughts on whether it was worth it?

cheers and happy eagling! p
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