|Aug 25, 2011, 07:59 AM|
My guess is this is the one I saw in the Tower Hobbies scratch and dent section?
If no one else has answered, I can get those measuements when I get home this evening...
|Aug 25, 2011, 09:16 AM|
|Aug 29, 2011, 11:04 AM|
Don't think I ever posted this info...
...here's what I use in my boats that I can't add floatation to. My schooner and tug use the float/line marker to allow for snag and drag or lift and recovery. I use 30lb kite string attached to a cabin/hatch with styro under it. It is tied off to a hard point in the boat. This will mark and allow a recovery of the sunken boat. The schooner has a free spining thread spool of line attached to a floating cabin and the tug currently uses 30ft loosely coiled line (soon to be upgraded to a thread spool too) attached to the rear hatch.
This works as an insurance policy in the event the boat sinks....
I got a good start on the mods this weekend...and ran into some unexpected issues too. More on that next...
|Aug 29, 2011, 12:18 PM|
I got the fire monitor pump installed/plumbed, but the “Battle switch” is not working with it. I don’t know why it won’t work, but it shuts on/off very rapidly causing the pump to do the same. It’s not a defective switch because I tried both of the ones I have and they both react the same. So…I’m picking up a servo activated micro switch today to turn the pump on/off with.
I installed a micro servo to rotate the fire monitor with…but am unhappy with the 90 degrees of rotation…I will need to play with the linkage some more to see if I can improve on that.
The new turbo diesel sound board sounds really good and everything works great with it when combined with the old ESC, but for some reason it will not work with the new Viper 25 amp ESC.
The Viper ESC works great by itself, but when used with the sound mod, it glitches the motor all over the place. I tried 2 different radios/receivers and used 12v and 7.4v power and those changes make no difference. I use the Viper 25 in another boat with the Harbor Model Chris Craft sound board and it works fine…I don’t know why this sound board or ESC is giving me all the trouble.
I’m waiting on the new version of the smoke generator (should be in today) to try it out. Hopefully it will not follow the same suit as the other mods and work like it’s supposed to.
I’ll take some pics tonight and get them up ASAP.
Here's some info and pics of the components.
Sullivan Field Pump for Glow Fuel.
FEATURES: Reversible Gear Pump design. Works from 6V to 12V
Ultrasonically welded pump head
Direct drive prevents slipping
FILL-OFF-EMPTY 3 position switch and pre-installed alligator clips
INCLUDES: Sullivan Field Pump for Glow Fuel
REQUIRES: Medium Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
SPECS: Length: 3-3/4" (95mm)
Width: 1-3/8" (34mm)
Height: 1" (25mm)
Pump capacity 33 ounces per minute at 12V
COMMENTS: This is for Glow Fuel only. Do not use gasoline.
NEW! Viper 25 Amp Electronic Speed Control
Forward and Reverse Marine ESC
NEW built-in failsafe to protect against complete loss of signal or when out of range (compatible with all manufacturers recivers)**INDUSTRY FIRST***
Absolute short circuit and motor overload protection
25A Current limit
6-12Volt (Input voltage)
Single Relay Switch
This is a single pole, double throw switch that will control any number of accessories drawing a total of 10 amps from any hobby battery, connected to one circuit.
Maximum current: 10Amp @ 28 VDC
Dimensions: 1.25" X 1.25" X 0.9"
Twelve inch servo pigtail
NEW HARBOR MODELS SMOKE GENERATOR
We are proud to announce the introduction of the Harbor Models Smoke Generator. This accessory will be the "icing on the cake" for your model diesel, steam boat or military vehicle.
-Creates a plume of "smoke" over 5 feet high
-Rugged custom made polymer reservor (2 x 2 x 1.5") with mounting flanges
-Squirrel cage fan creates strong static pressure. Perfect for manifold exhaust systems such as multiple smoke stacks
-Proprietary heating elements assure maximum "smoke" effect
-Draws 2 amps on 12 Volts
-Uses traditional model train smoke fluid, included with smoke generator
2 x 2 1/4 x 1 5/8"
Reservoir and Fan:
4 x 2 1/4 x 1 5/8"
NEW SOUND MODULES - ONLY FROM HARBOR MODELS
-True Digital Recordings
-Includes Crank Over, Idle, Rev Up and Down and Stop
-Slight Movement of Propulsion Stick Gives Cranking and Idle Sound But No Prop Movement
-Produces Three Auxillary Sounds Controlled by Verticle Movement of a free Channel Stick
-Auxillary Sounds Will Not Cut Out Motor Sound
-Will Not Over Heat and Shut Down
-No Sound Loop Clicks
-Generates 10 Watts of Sound
-No Additional Amplifier required
-Two Separate Volume Controls for Motor and Auxillary Sounds
-Adjustable Motor Sound at Idle and Top End
-Uses 8 Ohm Speaker (Sold Speparatley - Recommended Speaker: FRS7S, Found Below)
-Proudly made in the USA
-Includes 1 foot speaker wire connector
Dimensions: 3 x 2 x 7/8"
Amplifier Wattage: 10watt
Amplifier Impedance: 8ohm
Current Draw: 2amps
Operates on 10-15 volts
|Aug 30, 2011, 08:00 AM|
Here are progress pics.
First up building the micro servo/switch block to control the fire monitor pump. I've never done one so there may be an easier way? It came out looking/working really well.
|Aug 30, 2011, 08:10 AM|
Here's some progress pics...
|Aug 30, 2011, 08:19 AM|
Here are some fire monitor installation pics. I may need to use the sprocket chain drive that came with the monitor if I can't get more than 90 degrees out of the current setup.
I had to remove all the plastic port holes/wheelhouse windows. After 4 years, the plastic was very very brittle and shattered when I barely touched them. I will leave the portholes open for now and screened in the wheel house for better sound. It now has a tinted glass look from a stand off view...
|Aug 30, 2011, 08:31 AM|
The older unit (still in the unopened bag) is a full time on/off unit. The newer version has a chip added to allow variable smoke. It is wired to the motor input terminals. It can be wired directly to the power source and still be used as a full time on/off unit.
I'm thinking about a switch to give me the option of center is off, switch one way for variable, switch the other way for full power only.
Now all I need to do is figure out how to wire it?
It is in a 24hr wick oil soak right now, and I hope to bench test it tonight....maybe some video will be coming too.
|Aug 30, 2011, 11:49 AM|
This is a floating billboard for Harbor Models, lol.
Lookin' great! This has to be the most complex Atlantic tug in existence. We want video, NOW!
|Aug 30, 2011, 11:58 AM|
|Aug 30, 2011, 11:01 PM|
This is how I did my switch. I also installed a filter on the pick up.
|Aug 31, 2011, 08:37 AM|
Millertime...I saw that thread and still think you did a great job...especially on the fire monitor...the roller switch is another way to do it...good thinking man...
I got the smoker “picnic bench” tested last night. I tried it with 12v and 7.2v both direct connect and motor “variable speed” connected, and here are my findings:
On 12v… full power this thing puts out a huge amount of smoke. Unfortunately when used as a variable speed unit the fan doesn’t come on and it doesn’t start smoking until over 1/4 throttle, probably closer to 1/3 throttle.
On 7.2v…full power it still produces a good amount of smoke…but the variable speed unit acts the same and you get even less smoke at all speeds.
Except for some rescues, I rarely run at high throttle. When slowly cruising around the pond, I won’t put enough revs on the motor to activate the unit or get any smoke.
12v produces way too much smoke for this little Atlantic Harbor tug at full output. So…for my tug…the 7.2v full time on/off setup seems the best.
It’s nice to have the variable speed option available in case I decide to use it in another setup, but for now I will be hooking directly to the power source with a dedicated switch, most likely under the aft hatch, for quick/easy access. I wish I had another “7th” channel to remotely turn on off the unit, but I would have to give up some other function.
Also of interest is that the unit I have leaks oil and even smoke in several place around the top of the box where the lid attaches…not enough glue? I ran a bead of liquid tape around the edge and over the wire connectors where some of the bare wire was still showing.
I got the unit mounted the boat but still have to install the wiring/switch. Pics will be coming in the next few days as I finish up things.
Maybe some of the excellent minds here can come up with a way to control the smoke output. End point adjustments on the unit would have been really nice…
|Aug 31, 2011, 01:22 PM|
I think I found a solution to my being able to turn on/off the smoke unit by doing it with a shared channel via a "Y" harness. So...when I sound the tugs bell (elevator stick up all the way up) a micro servo will hit a micro latching lever or micro push type switch to turn on the smoke. When I push up on the elevator a 2nd time, it will hit that switch again turning the unit off. So every time I ring the ships bell, I'm also turning on or off the smoke. Gee...ain't I smart...
Back to the electronics store to see if they have suitable switch...
|Category||Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Question||Atalntic harbor tug propellor||cpd32||Dock Talk||2||Dec 30, 2009 11:54 PM|
|Build Log||Ocean/Harbor Tug Based on Fiberglass Hull off eBay||not_in_houston||Scale Boats||53||Nov 12, 2007 11:27 AM|
|Discussion||Aquacraft Atlantic Horbar Tug||wingnut163||Dock Talk||10||Mar 31, 2006 05:31 PM|
|Alert||Midwest's "The Harbor Tug" ?||helifan||Scale Boats||17||May 07, 2005 11:11 PM|
|Midwest "the Harbor Tug" plans for trade||helifan||Scale Boats||1||May 02, 2005 06:32 AM|