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Old Jun 26, 2010, 06:41 AM
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BTW now I'm pretty sure what happened. I let the ENTZ on the stand for a year and it is obvious the deck has caved in a bit under the keel's weight creating the slack. I wish I had supported the keel from the underside when storing the boat.
Lesson learned :-(
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 02:01 PM
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Hi Morspeed,
I missed your post earlier. Not sure which bit you're referring to but Dremer could work. Thanks
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Old Jul 05, 2010, 11:20 AM
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I feel like a dope! I forgot to insert the keel tube. Now I know why the deck caved in a little. It's not going to be easy to retrofit but I'll try when I get the keel out.
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Old Jul 27, 2010, 05:09 AM
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Australia, SA, Loxton
Joined Jul 2010
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Hi all - Just passing
Thought I would put my 5 cents worth in this thread started long ago, but seems still alive a bit - on the TTNZ 92 2007 America Cup replica 25:1 kit.

I have just returned to RC models after years away, now my son is interested so guess who is having some fun. not me MUCH Been through just about all disciplines of RC since I was about 12/13 yrs old ( now almost 4 x that ) other than Choppers and they are on my latest mental list to have a go at Boats both sail and serious power, cars, planes and my favourites sailplanes/gliders.

The RC scene has changed lots and it is all so cheap now compared to all those years ago (radios for less than $100-200 bucks) My first full house unit a Multiplex Royal back in the late 80s was nearly $2000 Servos the size of a thumb nail make life real easy for fitting in the smallest places, Not to mention the computer controlled radio gear and the new 2.4Ghz stuff.

Anyway, I digress
I have just recently purchased 2 of these kits, one was for my 13 yr old sons birthday and while at it I thought more family fun with 2 of them.

My impressions of the kits.
The quality is not too shabby to be honest, sure some of the fittings are questionable if you were serious, but generally not bad.
Sails - well I have seen worse out of the box but they reasonably fair as well. Yes feel that full battens may work better and loose the head wire system, but for now gone with standard setup.

So far both boats have been tested, my sons for about 4 hours on a Sunday in a local canal in Raby Bay with only about 2-5 kts wind and it performed rather well in my opinion even in the light conditions. The few bigger puffs we did get it accelerated quickly.
Perhaps a head sail topping lift would have helped a bit more in light conditions (will give that a shot next time) to give a bit more shape in the head sail rather than the flat sail you get out of the box so to speak.

The 2nd boat was tested last weekend on a lake near Mt Cotton (actually in the Scout camp area) the wind was very gusty. In the lulls it was fine but the occasional gust - say 15-20 knots upset things a bit and stood it on it's ear more than once, but it stood back up and all was well. It was certainly a handful, but with trimming, I think I can get it sorted. It did have a lot of weather helm, so will try moving the mast rake forward a bit.

As some have mentioned about the deck bits and pieces.
Boat #1 has already lost some of the details on deck - both steering wheels are gone including the pedestals and the back coffee grinder. Thought about these as I was fitting them and wondered, don't have to wonder anymore, but it was also being used with inexperienced hands (son and his mate) so it may not have been a big issue with some experience at the helm, you know the change tack or a Gybe without any sheeting in, tends to put slack in the sheets (as it does on the real deal big boats, yes I sail/own them also) and not a great way of doing things anyway.
Took the 2 small screws out that fitted into wheel pedestals and screwed in from top with a bit of CA, so the heads were there rather than pointy screw tips pointing up.
The coffee grinder still had the small bit in the hole so no leak from there. This boat had no issue with any water inside after the 4 hours, so all good underneath.
#2 boat last weekend did get water in, not a serious amount but some and not sure where from as yet, it did a few nose dives so could be over the deck somewhere, maybe not. Still looking.

The builds are relatively easy and I consider them an easy boat for almost anyone to build. The assembly manual could certainly be better for some that may not have built many before these, just take your time and dry fit everything and all will be well.

The only thing I did from standard kit is fitted an external power switch on back deck Portside, just behind the hatch about halfway between hatch and the side winch and about 25mm in from topside deck line using a waterproof hood covered flick switch to save removing hatch to turn on/off. Only time it has to come of is at home for charging of battery.
Hood came from RYSA (Radio Yacht supplies Australia) just down the road from me.


I used Hitech winches and they have worked flawlessly, but I think I will perhaps do something with the flimsy supplied winch drum hat over the top, can see that may not last long term. The ideas here of using washers looks like a good one.

I can see what many have said about rigging ( I used all standard from te kit, including the rigging line supplied) and the various plastic bits (Spreaders, chain plates etc) as some of the weaknesses they do have, but in my opinion for the fun on a lake somewhere and the not so serious stuff I believe they are an excellent buy.

Any Mods could easily be done over time if required, personally I would not shell out tooo many $$s upfront unless you really needed to for serious stuff straight of the bat so to speak.
About all I will do for now is put extra hole at back of both booms for outhaul adjustment add on. Especially on the main as the clew points in my opinion are not really far enough back for a better sail set.

I purchased the two kits at same time, got a great deal at AU$295 each and I already have various radio gear (Mostly JR stuff) so only other needed was the winch servos.

If you want a fun build and for fun use and like to attract attention go with one of these as so far 2 separate days sailing and they certainly drew many comments and attention with most people that wondered by.

I/we can certainly see some hours of family fun racing around a few milk bottles weighted down with return cord attached to weights for retrieval without a boat or swimming tossed out in a Canal or lake around here Even the wife is interested and that is scary as she does have this wild competitive streak that can appear in competitive situations, most unexpected as she normally meek and mild

Hope this may help others decide

Cheers

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Old Feb 25, 2011, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norman2 View Post
Andrew. Will be waiting for availability of sails. I also was not happy with a sail winch
so I used a swing arm type control and it works fine. regards
Norman2
Norman, Can you please point me to a design for a sail arm arrangement on the servo? Will 1:1 work?

Thanks.
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Old Feb 28, 2011, 11:02 AM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=etnz+sail+arm

Have a look at post 14 ,that may help you.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 01:47 AM
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Here is a tip for that leaking hatch...

Run a bead of silicone around the bottom of your hatch frame before bolting the frame to the hull.
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Old Jun 12, 2011, 06:20 AM
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Thunder tiger

What class does the ETNZ thunder tiger NZL-92 right out of the box race in? It has the wing on the keel bulb and i think it's only 1 meter not the 1 meter 120. I live in New Hampshire and have a few good ponds to puts around on for fun sailing after work. rgates1@comcast.net
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Old Jun 13, 2011, 09:16 AM
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Rick -

not a recognized one-design AMYA class as yet (that I know of) - but can be registered in the AMYA "open" class. In theory you could sail in US 1 Meter - but check dimesions (particularly the keel depth and sail area to be sure). Keep in mind if you register/race in US1M - you will be going against thouroughbreds that are designed for ultimate racing with light hulls and most weight in keel bulb. You could always take to local regatta and ask to race as a non-registered boat, which will gie you a flavor of comparative hull speed between yours and an all-out racer.

If you do get a chance to speed test, be sure to post results here as informational.
Cheers
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Old Jun 13, 2011, 09:00 PM
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Mine has been sitting on the bottom of a pond for 3 weeks now. I had finally figured out the secret to making the ETNZ sail pretty nice! Then it sunk in the high winds...
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Old Jun 14, 2011, 04:54 AM
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Etnz

I did most of the mods on the boat, I leaked checked it and i'm still using the recomended sail winch with little or no problem. my head sail main sheet was fraying in heavy winds about 5-15mph with gust a little higher in about an hour of sailing, so i took some clear fingernail polish( put the part on the stove and baked on for a few minutes) and put it around the main sheet hole, it seams to be working. Haven't had any strong winds to realy check it out. I've had my boat burried in water all the wat up to the foot of the mast on a dead run, and healed overhard for hours and not a drop of warer in side. great boat ans sails fair. wish i could point more into the wind. I'm not quite at a 45 degree angle and my close haul is aprox 8 to 10 degrees from center.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:22 AM
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I have recently purchased a second hand ETNZ. Replaced all the old dacron rigging with 80lb Spectra and used 80lb Dyneema for the sheets (very smooth). Had to repair a broken mast joiner using 2 lengths of carbon fibre. Had to make a tiller arm to fit the rudder. Made a spring tensioned closed loop winch system using a length of carbon tube and a single and double pulley, 380mm center to center to allow the necessary 280mm sheet run length. Set up the radio (FlySky CT6B) to limit the HS875 winch rotations for the correct sheeting length. Mounted the tube and pulleys to the side of the servo box. The rear pulley is back by the rudder well and the forward pulley is to the left of the Jib fairlead. I'm still using the original sails with a diagonal full length batten at the top. Put a topping lift on the jib. This boat came with Jenny stays fitted to the mast.
First outing was interesting to say the least, massive windward helm problems, even with the mast raked forward. Some leaks due to the hatch seal edges being damaged. 250ml in 3/4 hour!!. (I have now made a drain hole near the stern).
Back home and made a fitting to move the mast step forward by 30 mm and fitted new rigging chain plates further forward. Made out hauls for the Jib and Main, the tubes allow the outhaul to control the sail foot depth without affecting the twist. Second day out and success!!. Virtually no rounding up now. Still have the leaks though.
Sailing against a couple of Seawinds I was easily able to keep up The wind was way up and we all were having problems in the gusts.
One comment I heard was "thats the best I've ever seen an ETNZ go", still a way to go with tuning and sorting out the leaks. The slow winch servo is a learning curve, I'm used to a sail arm in my other boats. I'll up the battery to 5 cells AA NiMh to speed the servo up a bit.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Auckland New Zealand
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I did some measurements yesterday, the CLB is about right as the hull is sitting on its proper waterline, the CLR is 1.4% ahead of the CLB and the sail CE is now at 5% ahead of the CLR, (it was at 1.5% !!! before moving the mast forward by 30mm). With the large main it is easy to get out of control even with this amount of CE lead.
The sail set up is main 70%, 520sq in, Jib 30%, 224 sq in. Total area 744 sq inches.
The fin, rudder and bulb make up 38 sq in or 20% of the sail area. The fin to rudder ratio is 70/30, those figures are not too bad.
I still feel that the original design fault was the fin was too far forward by 25 to 30 mm. It's a bit too hard to change that though. I'll have it out on the water tomorrow and find out if I have got the hatch sealed this time. I get some pix also.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 07:29 AM
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Germany
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Originally Posted by KIWINB View Post
I'll have it out on the water tomorrow and find out if I have got the hatch sealed this time. I get some pix also.
I spent months trying to waterproof this heap of crap

Last resort, stripped out the hull and filled it with water to find where water was coming from ....low & behold it was entering the hull up through the rudder shaft into rudder well & then spilling into the hull & you can't see it because it below the rudder hatch cover !!!

Keel fin needs to be 60 mm aft to have good helm balance.

Best place for this boat is at the bottom of the lake mate, don't waste money on it
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Last edited by KoneWone; Feb 08, 2013 at 09:09 AM. Reason: Correction on keel movement
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 12:32 PM
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Pomona, CA
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Kone,

Assume you misspoke regarding the keel position, as all indications say that the keel should be moved aft to improve the balance of the boat. Not all that hard to do......I did it on my Phantom (which seems to be a copy of the TT ETNZ). Norman2 did it as well. Was it worth it? Well the boat sails pretty well now....probably not worth it to most considering these boats.

A new hatch cover and seal, and an o-ring and some grease on the rudder shaft and mine has stayed bone dry inside.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1449330

Kevin
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