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Old Jun 15, 2008, 09:29 AM
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Singapore
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a double purchase should do the trick
ed
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Old Jun 18, 2008, 03:22 AM
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Nelson, New Zealand
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ed please explain what you mean by double purchase?
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Old Jun 18, 2008, 05:51 AM
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try this link http://www.modelyacht.org/sailservo.html
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Old Jun 21, 2008, 11:59 PM
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Nelson, New Zealand
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Thats good Ed, I have a photo of this setup in an ETNZ from Norman. I am still intrested to know whether there is enough room to get full travel from the booms? I was also told thinner sheets would help which I will try this week.
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Old Jul 03, 2008, 02:42 AM
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thinner sheets have worked much better. Just the sails need replacing now along with the hinge wire at the top and il be away
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Old Jul 11, 2008, 06:54 PM
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Auckland,New Zealand
Joined Jul 2008
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Two launched today

Ok, so I have just completed the assembly on my two new ETNZ yachts and thank all who posted on this forum. Very helpful in making mods and avoiding later problems.

Still not happy with main hinge wire , sailed both boats today and the main has rubbish shape and the hinge wire is not up to the job.

Going to build a few sets of mylar sails and was hoping someone out there could recommend a mylar film thickness??.

Also fully battened main or not??.

Also what glue is best for glueing sail panels together??.

I set one yacht up with a 785 sail winch, modified the drum hat and it works very well.

The other I set up with 765 sail arm servo and cannot get full sheet travel by any means (apart from moving sheet deck exit points and moving boom connection points further forward both of which I am not happy bout doing)so may go to a winch set up on boat two as well.

If anyone has had success with full sheet travel then please let me know how as the methods posted thus far do not seem to work for me??.

Cheers..../)
/)

Gary
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Old Jul 12, 2008, 02:42 AM
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Asturias, Spain
Joined Mar 2001
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Gary, your mylar should be 50 micron (75 g/sq, metre approx) or maybe 35 micron if winds are light. The panels should be stuck together with double-sided adhesive tape of about 5 mm width. If you can't find any that narrow, stick lengths on a glass surface and cut them to width. Reinforce the luff and corners with an additional thickness of mylar.
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Old Jul 12, 2008, 05:13 AM
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Auckland,New Zealand
Joined Jul 2008
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Martin,

Thankyou for heads up , I will contact QCD in Auckland and see if I can track down some 50 and 35 micron Mylar, girls flying down there next week so hopefully she can bring some up for me.

Cheers............Gary
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Old Jul 12, 2008, 07:54 AM
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Asturias, Spain
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Look for something called "sailmakers blocks" on google. There's no point in making panelled sails without built in curvature. Otherwise single panel flat sails would do.
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Old Jul 21, 2008, 02:00 PM
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Joined Dec 2006
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here are a few pics of the ETNZ and also a video. sorry about the video re about 5 seconds, you see the deck, I had the trans in one hand and the camera in theother, I had to tac befor it got behind the wall and the camera slipped, but got it back in my hand for the coming back.
http://picasaweb.google.com/ace1937/...ey=Kfl3_V9dHBY

Love the boat, ordered some better hardware for it from Iosobar Yachts. I like to sail in high winds and big waves. Look at one of the pics, all you see is the sails.
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Old Jul 21, 2008, 03:19 PM
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Ha! Very good inspiring pictures MGA, thanks for that.

Goose
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 04:53 AM
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Auckland,New Zealand
Joined Jul 2008
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After two weeks of sailing the two yachts everyday I think I finally have it cracked, had to make many mods to boat out of the box but very pleased to find that after adding a set of full length battens to the mains (including a couple at the head to keep her in shape , the difference in performance was astounding.I sail in 5 -12 knots and was beginning to think there was just way to much rag up above 8 knots.(thinking now they are good for 10knots) But now the shocking weather helm has gone, they point at least 8-10 degrees higher, and there is a marked improvement in speed upwind. I did make other rigging mods to get sail shape right but overall putting full battens on supplied main made the biggest difference to sailing characteristics.

Still looking to fit a new set of foils as I am getting knocked over in 12+ knots and I am hoping for more control in these gusts.

Gary
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 07:22 AM
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Hey Gary....

Thanks a lot for your real-world information. That is vital to those of us who haven't yet purchased an ETNZ but want to know what it takes to get a great sailing yacht from a good one out of the box.

Cheers

Goose
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Old Jul 23, 2008, 01:15 AM
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I'll be ordering 2 when I get home in a month or so...

Of course I'll be upgrading the beast with new sails and what not but...if you add full length batterns, do you add them to the existing sails or do you need to make a complete new set? Also, what do you make the batterns from?
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Old Jul 25, 2008, 02:57 AM
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Auckland,New Zealand
Joined Jul 2008
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Ok, so I now have two in the water and I think with stock supplied sails they sail as good as they ever will without upgraded sails.

I have used this thread forum extensively in my build/mods so thought I should respond in kind with the ideas I came up with given the limited supplies and access to machining equipment in my location.

First off I installed chainplates made from 5mm s/s bolts with the thread end filed down to the shape I wanted and drilled small hole at top for turnbuckle attachment. To get around the big hand in small hole problem i drilled 5mm hole thru deck at each chainplate exit point.Then I threaded braid down thru hole and hooked out braid thru deckhatch with coathanger wire. Then fitted s/s washer to chainplate bolt and applied silicone sealant around washer and bolt surface.Tied braid to chainplate hole and pulled bolt thru the deck and up into position in the chainplate hole. This serves as a watertight chainplate, gives plenty of surface area under the deck for the amount of tension I intend to give the rig and best of all when I come to repaint time will be able to remove the chainplates quite easily.

The turnbuckles are not stainless (Dubro 1/4 scale ) but with a regular coat lanolin seem to be holding up for now.

On fitting the mast step I drilled out the lower step so I could still remove the keel without removing the step, I then siliconed in bottom step to deck and top step to mast base, once again removable later on down the road.

All running rigging is 90lb spectra fishing braid.

I used s/s plastic coated wire (crimped)for cap shrouds and lower d stays as I wanted plenty of tension without braid cutting against the turnbuckles.

I then shaped up the swept forward top spreaders from a piece of 90 degree angle aluminium and bolted thru mast at the same point I had double bolted the mast joiner for extra strength at this weak point.

These upper spreaders also have plastic coated wire with 1/4 scale turnbuckles as I was looking for heaps of tension here to correct the ugly bend in mast caused by the mast joiner.

I did not use the top d stays and top spreader supplied as the new spreaders fitted produce excellent tension for controlling fore/aft and port/starboard movement on upper mast section.

I now had controllable sail shape and can load up the backstay when required without distortion in mainsail.

But still not happy with sail shape and basically getting saggy shape, draught in the wrong place and sail twist all wrong I then fitted full battens to main, I removed the supplied battens which I wish I had never fitted as they left creases and wrinkles behind.

The battens I made from large fibreglass yacht battens spilt down to appropriate size and sanded down to .6 mm thick , 8mm wide with slightly smaller and thinner ones for the upper battens. In retrospect I could have made these smaller and thinner but I was over the sanding thing and wanted to go sailing.

These i applied with doublesided adhesive tape and finding the ends were still lifting off sail when loaded up I applied batten pockets made from sticky back sail repair tape.

This made a huge difference to performance but given the thickness of battens has produced sails which are really better for heavy weather sailing- fine as thats what I sail in usually.

Finnally Instead of cutting out the slot for sheets on winch plastic hat I drilled holes at the exit points on winch drum and glued small stainless steel washers to the winch hat, these act as guides for the sheets and prevent the 90lb braid sheets from cutting thru the plastic. As they guide the braid thru its correct location I have not yet had a jam or failure in this area although in very light conditions the braid does not alsway flow freely from the drum particularly with the jib, however it does work and I tried running with an arm servo but could not get the throw I needed to make this work.

Installing the winch drum was a painful exercise given it must be all fitted in one shot however I now have a technique which works very easily (and quickly)and if anyone wants to experiment with this method let me know and I will give more detail.

Hope all this info helps someone out there, this is a challenging yacht to assemble but immensly satisfying once shes in the water, they do perform very well.

I believe Emirates Team New Zealand would be disapointed if they knew a liscensed product was only really suitable for a static display without major mods and even as a static model out of the box it has an embarrasing sail shape.

I would have paid more for better finished design, but... I do love them after all the work involved and knew what is was getting into (thanks to this thread)before purchasing them.

Cheers

Gary
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