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Old Dec 20, 2007, 08:05 PM
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Bud Faulkner's Avatar
Mt Airy Maryland
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oldtribefan, can you tell me a little about your finish and how you did it? It just gleams!

Bud
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Old Dec 21, 2007, 02:09 AM
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Manila, Philippines
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Bud, I do not know the Hacker Craft, I often read about Chris Craft......anyway, I like those Old Classic Boat.

Too Bad, I can not Upload those Hi-Res Picture in this RCGroups....its easier for me to Put Picture in YouTube, I use a DVD quality video so that you can see it better.

This old Classic Boat is very match to the Interior of the Old Classic comedy TV show call "CHEERS" , its so happen the Original "Cheers" bar is in Boston....this is my Favorite shows.......Have Visit the Replicas of Cheers Bar in Boston, its very near the Harbor.

Will post its Picture here, as soon as I was able to Resize its picture.

Ellion


Run About Boat (1 min 16 sec)
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Old Dec 21, 2007, 07:36 AM
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Mt Airy Maryland
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Ellion, thanks for the pictures. There were quite a few builders in the early days. Hacker, Chris craft, Garwood, Dodge, to mention a few. Here's a link to Hacker, enjoy.

Bud

http://www.hackerboat.com/
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Old Dec 21, 2007, 12:34 PM
oldtribefan
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Walnut Creek, CA
Joined May 2007
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Ellion and Bud - thanks for the compliments!

Bud - here is a rundown on how she was finished:

As for the finish, I pretty much followed the process detailed in the Dumas finishing video. On the Triple I used 2 oz fiberglass cloth and Tap Plastics Surfboard Resin. This is a water clear, impact resistant and UV stabilized polyester resin. When flexed, it resists cracking and crazing and damage from impact. You don’t need to sand between coats because it does not contain any surfacing wax (although you do need to add a few drops of the surfacing wax to the resin for the final coat). Here is the web site for this product:

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=38&

If you can stand the smell of polyester resin (I did this in the garage and my wife did not kick me out of the house…but she did comment on the smell) this stuff is great. It truly is “water clear” – no yellow cast like I have gotten with West System epoxy – sets up pretty fast (especially here in California in the summer with 105 degree temps and low humidity), sands out very well and has proven to be as durable as their ads claim. All in all, a very good product for mahogany boats.

After about three coats of the resin, the glass was well filled and I had a pretty good amount of resin on allowing me to sand the hull smooth and fair. I used my 5” random orbit sander to rough it down, then hand sanded with wet/dry papers through 600 grit. As usual, I was a bit too aggressive in a couple of areas and sanded through the resin, so I mixed up small batches of resin as needed to fix my mistakes.

When it was smooth and fair, I used a touch up gun/compressor to spray it with two coats of PPG automotive paint – red for the underside (boy, red auto paint is expensive!!) and clear on the top. This is two-part paint and dries real hard. In fact, the guy at the paint store said that any sanding should be done the next day or it would be hard to cut the paint. He was right.

The red was done first after masking off the top of the boat, the boot topping was put on with 1/8” white auto striping tape, and then the red was masked off and the clear sprayed on the top (mahogany) areas. After the first two coats of clear, I placed the Chris Craft logos on the sides, numbers and boat license on the bow and gold leafed the name on the stern. Then, I used more of the PPG clear in an airbrush to build up the clear around and over the decals, transfers, and stickers, sanding between each two coats, building up the finish until smooth and sealing in the decals. After all the paint was on and I was satisfied with the depth of the finish, I “color sanded” it like you would do a car, finishing it off with an automotive buffer and swirl remover.

Hope this answers a few of your questions.

Happy Holidays!

Kip
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Old Dec 21, 2007, 02:38 PM
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Kip, thanks much for the information. I didn't know Dumas made a finishing video? I've been away from boatbuilding for some time while I was into fixed wing aircraft so I didn't visit their site during that time. I'm quite familiar with polyester resin, I've used it in many applications along with epoxy resin, (retired industrial model builder) I have several touch up guns including a new HVLP gun I've never used but have been wanting to try. Thanks for the link, I'll look into the resin. Years ago we used more epoxy resin rather than polyester because the polyester had a tendency to yellow over time.

Bud
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Old Dec 21, 2007, 02:45 PM
oldtribefan
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Walnut Creek, CA
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Bud,

I finished this boat over 6 years ago and, true to the advertisement, the UV inhibitors must work because there is no degredation or yellowing of the polyester resin. It is as clear as the day I put it on. The Tap Surfboard Resin is good stuff.

Kip
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Old Dec 21, 2007, 02:59 PM
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Mt Airy Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtribefan
Bud,

I finished this boat over 6 years ago and, true to the advertisement, the UV inhibitors must work because there is no degredation or yellowing of the polyester resin. It is as clear as the day I put it on. The Tap Surfboard Resin is good stuff.

Kip
oldtribefan,

It's in my favorites folder and when I finish my chris will certainly be ordered. BTW...I use PPG paints exclusively but you can no longer buy lacquer in this state and yes, red is expensive

Bud
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 11:19 AM
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Mt Airy Maryland
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What kind of run time and what power system is everyone using on the triple runabouts? Not good at electronics and am building both the 24' and 27' triple. Any pictures? Thanks,

Bud
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Old Jan 13, 2008, 07:31 PM
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Paint. Black, top of hull/styrene strips?

How did you paint the black accent paint along the top of the hull without covering the white styrene strips in between? Did you use automotive striping tape? This has really been vexing me as I work towards that part of the build.

I was also going to do the black paint and then glass over the whole boat after that was done.

Also interested in what motor and prop you are running as well as speed control.

Any finishing suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks!

8pack....
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 01:31 AM
oldtribefan
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Walnut Creek, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pack
How did you paint the black accent paint along the top of the hull without covering the white styrene strips in between? Did you use automotive striping tape? This has really been vexing me as I work towards that part of the build.

I was also going to do the black paint and then glass over the whole boat after that was done.

Also interested in what motor and prop you are running as well as speed control.

Any finishing suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks!

8pack....

8pack, I used India Ink for the black trim. It is very opaque, and the consistency flows nicely into the grain of the wood very much like a black stain. If you are using the white styrene strips from the kit, put the ink on as carefully as possible and when it dries use a single edge razor blade to lightly scrape any ink off the top of the styrene. It may take two coats of ink to get the depth of color. Do the ink before you do any fiberglassing.

I use the prop that Dumas supplies with the kit, but sharpened and balanced the blades. The motor is just a "stock" 27-turn RC car motor, and the speed control is the Futuaba that I got with my Futaba AM radio set. Nothing fancy, but works fine in this boat.

What else would you like to know about finishing?

Kip
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 03:11 PM
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Moved to motor setup.
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 07:29 PM
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Great Response on the India Ink

Never would have thought of that and the instructions say to just paint it. I was thinking of trying to get a fine metallic like look into the black section. do you think some aluminum powder mixed with the india ink might work?

I was also considering painting the area below the waterline and the white stripe before I glassed the hull. Then glass the hull and give the whole thing a clear automotive coat. That way I could use testors enamel without having to worry about paint compatability and have an automotive shop shoot the clear over the whole hull uniformly. This would save me exposure to that those nasty automotive urethanes! Is this a silly idea or something that just won't work......newbie to this boat/fiberglassing/finishing stuff!

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Much appreciated...

8Pack
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 07:53 PM
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Central Missouri,USA Along the banks of the Missouri River
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Woodybob, that is a really impressive list of equip. you have in you boat. First rate equipment for a first rate boat.

8pack, I have a favorite motor for runabouts, its the Titan by Traxxas. It has a built in fan for cooling. I have one in my runabout running on 7.2v and it stays cool without watercooling. Its been reliable and its inexpensive. Oh, and it hauls a$$!
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Old Jan 14, 2008, 11:50 PM
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Mt Airy Maryland
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woodybob, thanks for the motor info. I like the way you planked your barrel back. Always wanted a set of proportional dividers but never bought one. Sounds like you have drafting experience.

Bud
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 02:16 AM
oldtribefan
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Walnut Creek, CA
Joined May 2007
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8pack,

Try a bit of the powder and ink on scrap and see how it comes out. I am not sure that the India Ink will be heavy/thick enough to hold it in suspension. Are you going to air brush it on? If you use a brush it may see streaks of metalic.

I have not tried to paint below the boot-top before glassing. You may end up with compatibiltiy issues where the epoxy does not adhere. If you are using polyester resin it will likely attack the paint and you will have a huge mess. If you do a sample, let us know how it works.

Hey, answering questions is fun - that's how we learn!

Kip
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