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Old Jun 13, 2007, 08:48 PM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
I forgot to mention that I didn't use the pushrods supplied with the kit. They are the ultra thin wire type, while not too bad, are way too small for the hole in both the control horn and the servo arm. I ended up using 2-56 pushrods - cut really short.
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Old Jun 14, 2007, 12:42 AM
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Joined Jun 2007
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Hi, can u show us a detail-photo of the 2-56 (what does mean 2-56?) pushrods?
thx


...iam still waiting for my glider.....paid for FastDelivery 3-5Days...now i wait 14 Days..
Any Idea for getting back my Money?
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Last edited by thinkingabout; Jun 15, 2007 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 07:47 AM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
2-56 is the size of the rod.

If my memory serves me well I think it stands for #2 gauge wire with a 56 TPI (Threads Per Inch) threaded end.

As a very general statement, it's the standard pushrod size for models above park fliers up to around (in the old language) .60 (10cc) sized models.

The next size used in larger scale models is 4-40 size.
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 07:53 AM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
I made sure the aerial was secured. I crunched my Baudis Ventus 2c when last out flying with the boys and later found that the rx aerial had moved fwd (probably due to my crappy landings) and was all gathered in the nose and under the wing area. No wonder it was responding to my control inputs.

For this model I threaded the aerial down the fuselage and out a hole in the fuselage. I then knotted it several times so it can't move back in the fuselage.

Hopefully this will enable some kind of range to be maintained.
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 08:08 AM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
Now for the uppy-downy mover bit.....

I used the supplied hardware for the elevator. The cross section of the elevator is not a highly tapered as the ailerons, so the Zip horn should be OK here.

I used a HS-56 servo (rescued complete with extension soldered on from the wreck of the CMPro Discus). The was secured to the fin surface using 5 minute epoxy thickened with Q cells. I roughed up both surfaces 1st to provide some purchase for the glue.
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 08:25 AM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
I mentioned earlier that the front taiplane captive nut came loose and I zapped it back in place.

Well it came loose again and now I cant even get the front screw out

It even damaged the fin gelcoat when it span around inside. Double

So now I've got a 2mm gap (variable down to zero due to the loose screw) between the L/E of the tailplane and the top of the fin. So, in a fit a rage I removed the covering film in the area of the gap and zapped the tailplane on permanently. No bloody gap now!
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 02:12 PM
Magic Blue Smoke costs to much
jason H's Avatar
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Joined Dec 2004
2,710 Posts
Nice work Knackers, don't like the wing servo wells, they suck..............
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 05:42 PM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
Jase,

Good to see you back on the forum.

The wing servo bays were probably designed for midi to standard size servos. The bay areas are deep enough for micros. I debated gluing the servos to the top skin and fitting flat covers but I couldn't find the flat covers from the Discus, and being in an extremely lazy state, couldn't be bothered making new ones, so I just fitted the supplied units.

ps. I found the covers next day
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Old Jun 17, 2007, 05:31 AM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
I ditched the standard rudder pushrod. It was about as big in diameter as a piece of dental floss and about as rigid.

Even with guide holes drilled in the radio tray rear former, the former at the rear of the wing and the former near the fin base, the rod still flexed unacceptably with the slightest resistance added to the rudder.

I would recommend either using the second rod as supplied (but not in the instructions) to set up a pull pull system. There are guide holes as mentioned above on both sides of the fuse, exit holes on either side of the rudder and the 2 rods, but inexplacably, only a control horn for a single pushrod system

So it's ditch the supplied goods and either install a cable pull pull, or as I did a 4mm carbon pushrod.

The pushrod ends were notched using my new toy, a Dremel Stylus fitted with a cut-off wheel. The rods are held in place using JB Weld. What a great adhesive! If only it didn't take 24 hours to harden.......

So, I could do something else or I could watch TV. What a dilemma















Now where's that remote?
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Old Jun 17, 2007, 12:27 PM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
Good morning all,

I'm up at 2.45am to watch the US GP (yes, I'm an F1 tragic).

While I'm watching I have been fiddling away at the ASW and have got the rudder linkage completed now that the JB has set.
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Last edited by salisbug; Jun 17, 2007 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 05:37 AM
I failed linkage geometry
salisbug's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2002
4,230 Posts
BTW - the decals are for the AS factory machine.....
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 05:55 AM
find me @samotage
samotage's Avatar
Melbourne Australia
Joined Jul 2005
8,362 Posts
OMG!

- Glenn builds a plane!
- Jase posts on RCG!

Sam,
who can't believe it's not butter.
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 05:58 AM
find me @samotage
samotage's Avatar
Melbourne Australia
Joined Jul 2005
8,362 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by salisbug
Jase,

Good to see you back on the forum.

The wing servo bays were probably designed for midi to standard size servos. The bay areas are deep enough for micros. I debated gluing the servos to the top skin and fitting flat covers but I couldn't find the flat covers from the Discus, and being in an extremely lazy state, couldn't be bothered making new ones, so I just fitted the supplied units.

ps. I found the covers next day
I just wrapped 'em in blue tape and glued to the balsa.
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