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Old Jun 14, 2007, 08:26 PM
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erich's Avatar
Holden , Massachusettes
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More stab stuff

After unpinning stab from board, cleaned it up a little. Didn't do any of the heavier rough sanding. Will wait till it's reinforced with the spars. So...added the spruce (I used basswood) spar caps to one side of the stab with titebond. After both spar caps were glued on, fLipped stab so spar cap is on bottom, and pinned stab to board, propping up LE and TE.
Next step will be to box in brass joiner tube.

erich
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Old Jun 14, 2007, 09:28 PM
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United States, TX, Weatherford
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Erich,

The 1.3 oz. stabs were mine and included the joiner wire.

Jack
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Old Jun 14, 2007, 10:01 PM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Jack

Sorry mine weigh 1.35 oz. however that includes the joiner wires, the estimated covering , and the rudder.

erich
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Old Jun 14, 2007, 10:03 PM
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Cool...

Jack
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Old Jun 15, 2007, 02:19 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Joiner Boxes

Have framed in the joiner tube using 1/16" balsa. Temporarily pinned top spar cap in place to help align the joiner box frames. Used titebond to glue up both joiner boxes. Added the 1/16" shear webs out to about 2/3 span. So....ready to fill, joiner boxes with epoxy, and glue in top spar cap.

erich
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 06:10 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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And still more Stab stuff

Added 30 min epoxy mixed with cabosil to joiner boxes, spread titebond on top of webs and ribs, then added the spar caps. Will let sit for 8 hours, while weighted down. Notice photo. Took 20 years to collect the appropriate tools for building planes, these are some of my best.

erich
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 10:53 PM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Stab Continues

Spars are done, glue has set. Did a little clean up then ended up sanding about half the stab away. Tapered the LE quite a bit front to back. Started sanding just in front of spar caps, and also from just behind to taper into TE. Although the way tips are designed on the plans is in my opinion a real good way of doing them and keeping em light, I had some solid and very light balsa pieces that just fit perfectly there. So... by the time everything got whittled down to a proper shape...would say I ended up with about a pound of sawdust. Ok..ok...ok... maybe an ounce. Anyway the remaing stab ended up fairly light.

erich
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 11:14 PM
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erich!
I sure hupe your planning on transparent!
That will look gorgeous up there! Johnny
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Old Jun 17, 2007, 12:15 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Johnny

Have cornered the market on transparent coverings. Have never used anything but transparents on open structure wings. On the Hawk will probably use mostly Ultracote trans. blue, with white fuselage and a little white piping and trim on wings (like the tips and root area). Just got back from a flying session with my Mirage, which is mostly tans. yellow. With all the turbulators in that wing and the scalloped edges, it was a sight to see... circling overhead with only a 5mph wind and a few puffy clouds in the distance.

I'll use any excuse to post a photo of a plane. So...here it is again, as some of you might remember from a Mirage build someone did.


green air

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Old Jun 17, 2007, 12:28 AM
who has rabbit ears down
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Erich !
So you had a gale to fly in today? the fishbowl at Farmington was only enough to blossom Mr Kite's 'chute! I did get to 2:25, though! Johnny
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Old Jun 17, 2007, 09:21 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Stab Done

After all that sanding finally got to add the 1/16" sheeting. Pinned stabs down to sheet one side, flipped over pinned down again glued other side (titebond). Followed curved shape shown on plans for the most part, added enough root area sheeting to just hide rear brass tube. Did some clean up sanding and rounded LE. Will add some 1/8" thick balsa root ribs later. These will allow about 1/8" of brass joiner tube to stick out on each side of fin, giving more support to the joiner rod (less unwanted movement). Adding the balsa root ribs will also allow a good tight fit against fin (with a little sanding here and there).

erich
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Old Jun 17, 2007, 02:40 PM
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Will you add cap strips to the ribs or just let the covering span the distance from the 1/16 sheeting to the TE?
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Old Jun 17, 2007, 11:01 PM
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The ribs meet the TE evenly top to bottom, so caps would have to be really feathered quite a bit where they meet the TE. The plan called for no caps (just letting the covering span from spar cap to TE), so will go that way. To be honest hadn't thought about using caps. Have almost always used rib caps, so it'll be interesting to see how this works without em. Another factor, don't want much more weight at the back of plane then is absolutely necessary. My stabs are already a little heavier than I'd have liked.

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Old Jun 18, 2007, 04:48 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Back to Fuselage

Time to get back to fuselage. How did I get side tracked?? Have added the top longerons. Left a 1/2" space where the fin LE post enters fuselage. Also left a 3/8" gap at back end of fuse for the fin TE post. Used the fin as pattern to get these gaps perfectly placed. In between glue sessions on stab and fin, made up the bulkheads. Figured, 4 bulkheads, should do the trick. Used 1/8" ply. The last bulkhead (if you can call it that) has more holes than bulkhead. The 2 top partial holes are for the 2 pull-pull tubes, the middle is for stab tube. Will also have a shorter antenna tube (don't bother to ask, I always put in one of these). So it's going to be real crowded back there...a sort of tube central (yea I know, I'm not a comedian).

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Old Jun 19, 2007, 01:13 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Fuselage

Made some more progress on fuselage sides. Added the servo rail supports using 1/8" x 1/4" basswood. Used ply root rib to locate main joiner and alignment pin holes. Drilled holes for main joiner, and alignment rods. Started with a smaller hole, then widened main joiner out to right size. Have also made the diagonal angled holes for the pull-pull tubes.

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