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Old Oct 11, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Hey Jack,

Thanks for green lighting this fuse discussion I asked you about. I am really having a great time. At an arthritic 51, I can use all of those I can get.

Thanks to everyone for your help and kind words.

Slightly-drooped-Bill
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 04:14 PM
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In case anyone is interested, here is an adapter I am working on to let HH wings mount on a top-mount fuse or pod, like that for the Yardbird.

Here is the dwg:
http://wkleinsasser.net/download/Yar...ng_adapter.zip

pdf is attached.
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Last edited by wingloada; Nov 30, 2012 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Updated drawing 10-21-12
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 04:19 PM
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I'm still waiting for my U-Verse connection at home so I have only limited access at work. I have a fuse partly drawn and will begin work on it in earnest when my move dust settles. I have a new wing kit, too...
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 04:57 PM
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Sounds great.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 07:09 PM
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I found a few mistakes in the HH wooden fuselage drawing so I fixed them. The updated files are downloadable from my blog site here. The drawing is dated in the info box. I also made some updates to the other fuselages and pods as well.

Bill

UPDATE: National Balsa has quoted $82 + shipping for both the HH fuse wood/laser cuts and the Yardbird pod wood/laser cuts from my dwg cut files (just the wood for the cut parts and the cuts but for both sets = $82 + shipping). There's still some other wood needed to build the fuse and pod but not much, ex. 1/4" balsa for fuse top, tri stock, pine/bass nose block, etc.. From that quote, my estimate is that the HH fuse parts account for about $62 of it and the pod parts for about $20. I've placed my order with them and hope to start building the HH in the next few weeks. Thanks to all for your help and encouragement through the process. And of course, thanks to Jack for the plane in the first place.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 12:05 AM
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I found some bug solve- when I did a 'normal' single page 'save as' there was a damaged file, (Mac Lion) BUT when I went to D Load list, pulled the folder from d load to desktop, everything is just fine- as per Safari Viewing- 4 files within folder (Yardbird)
BTW I went Houston Hawks site, but couldn't find the build log all- where is that @?
Johnny
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 09:13 AM
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Johnny,

Is this what your looking for?

Rich

http://www.houstonhawks.org/HoustonH...awkProject.htm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Canardly View Post
I found some bug solve- when I did a 'normal' single page 'save as' there was a damaged file, (Mac Lion) BUT when I went to D Load list, pulled the folder from d load to desktop, everything is just fine- as per Safari Viewing- 4 files within folder (Yardbird)
BTW I went Houston Hawks site, but couldn't find the build log all- where is that @?
Johnny
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 07:35 PM
who has rabbit ears down
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Yes it is!
Bookmarked now!- new computer you see---
Thanks Jolly 01 !
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 05:15 PM
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airfoils (again...)

Several folks have commented in threads related to Jack's wing designs that the HH uses an airfoil (S3021) that has been replaced in the more recent designs (Yardbird, for example, is S3014 as is the Journey, I think, and the Bantam is a thin Drela AGxx airfoil, I believe). I just received my short kit for the Hawk flying surfaces (beautifully cut by Mountain Models) and I wonder if someone (Jack?) might comment on any advantages that there might be to building the Hawk wing but with the S3014 airfoil. Could a builder spend some time reshaping the S3021 laser-cut rib set for the Hawk? Would there be a noticeable performance difference or is it best to build it stock as it was intended?

Thanks for any ideas that might be offered.

Bill
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 07:59 PM
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If you thin the stock trailing edge to about .15 or .16 to match the ribs you will end up with a very slight "reflex' which approaches the 3014 upper contour. The Hawk flys like a dream with the stock airfoil. I have 2 wings, one built by a friend who built 4 and mine. Both have the slight "reflex"
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Hi Oldokie,

So I'm sure I understand, I have attached a drawing of what you are saying. Is this correct?

Thanks!

Bill
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 09:13 PM
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Utah
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Generally yes. The inside edge thickness of the TE stock should match the height of the rib when it is inserted into the trailing edge notch. I do not remember the exact thickness but .15/.16 is close. Of course here we talking about the inner constant chord panel.

The outer panel follows the same procedure. I believe the outer panel tapers in thickness.

It has been awhile.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 09:25 PM
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Thanks!
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:32 PM
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I know it's off topic, but if anyone is interested, I just finished an Allegro Lite electric and posted some photos in the electric sailplane forum (in a thread asking for help with LiPo connector types for its small pod). It's post #14. Having spent the last month studying the Houston Hawk and Yardbird, the AL seems pretty small.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post23061326

Now my desk is clear and my short kit is here so I'll start the HH when my fuselage parts arrive next week from the laser cutter.

I hope my little place has room to house the 126" wing... There is some skepticism in the family about that right now...

Bill
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 07:24 PM
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United States, OK, Moore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schrederman View Post
I'm still waiting for my U-Verse connection at home so I have only limited access at work. I have a fuse partly drawn and will begin work on it in earnest when my move dust settles. I have a new wing kit, too...
Um, yeah...good luck with that. We've been in our house 5 months now, and the dust aint settled yet!

But by golly, I'm gonna get my workbench in order and start working on something by next month!

Of course, I've been saying that for the last 3 months.....
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