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Old Dec 03, 2012, 02:41 PM
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Lightweight spackle, the kind where you pick up the one gallon tub of it and it feels empty
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 04:48 PM
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FPV Zephyr II with Ruby - Devils Thumb

Zephyr FPV - Devils Thumb (6 min 31 sec)
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 05:44 PM
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extreme cross poster of the day!!!
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Svede View Post
Lightweight spackle, the kind where you pick up the one gallon tub of it and it feels empty
The spackle is what we're looking for an alternative for, because while it's easy and great at smoothing and leveling, it doesn't have good bonding capability or flexibility.

Mixing spackle in with the Goop won't be a good idea, since the spackle is water based and the Goop is solvent based. The filler needs to be something in dry powder form.

Microballoons mixed with the thinned Goop is the only thing I can think of as of now. Haven't tested it though so that's just my initial idea.

The thinner the Goop, the more microballoons you can add to get a spreadable filler.
But too much solvent thinning the Goop and it will lose its bonding ability.

Toluene is the solvent to thin Gooop. It's hard to get though since it's so nasty.
Xylene is widely available in the paint department as a substitute for toluene, and it works well for thinning Goop.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dawsonh View Post
Wow! All this talk of thinned GOOP and exotic fabrics has me flashing back to CK's "Rubber Raider" days!

Dawson
I had the rubber raider in my hands at CK's place one day. I think it would fly through a brick outhouse without a scratch
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by murdnunoc View Post
The spackle is what we're looking for an alternative for, because while it's easy and great at smoothing and leveling, it doesn't have good bonding capability or flexibility.

Mixing spackle in with the Goop won't be a good idea, since the spackle is water based and the Goop is solvent based. The filler needs to be something in dry powder form.
I see where you are coming from, but that's just not the reality of the situation. It's a whole lot more spackle then GOOP/toluene substitute and both evaporate just fine. On test pieces the Kevlar would rip foam away rather than separating from the foam in many places, and had a MUCH better "peel strength" then regular composites and pink/blue foam. In my book that is way better than good enough.

If you did tests and proved that microballoons were better then spackle then I'd use it too, but if it's already stronger then it needs to be, what's the point?

Not trying to be argumentative, but that is what the tests I did showed and it has held up infinitely better then laminate as well as being lighter and looking a heck of a lot better (no offense CK).
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:33 PM
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No I'm glad you've done the testing, Svede!
I really just didn't think the two would get along well because of the different carrier solvents.

I'd much rather use the spackle/goop than microballoons/goop for the safety factor.

Now I want to get building another Demon to try it out...
Maybe an EDF Demon. I seem to have gotten myself wrapped up in that stuff lately...
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:34 PM
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So, you guys think that thinned goop is any better for riteweave as opposed to 3M 90?

Or should the 3M 90 still be used for the riteweave for the first layer...then spackle and thinned goop for a final layer as a paintable layer? Kinda as opposed to the old PU skim coat?
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:42 PM
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I would only use the thinned Goop and filler underneath the lam film to give it a smooth surface to stick to.

I think Svede is using the thinned Goop in place of lam film, and says it's stronger than lam.

For glassing with weave, I think it'll be tough to beat 3M-90. You don't get much more aggresive than that stuff. Plus, the 90 is fast and easy. And you'll tear chunks of foam out before the weave delaminates from the foam.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:13 PM
Molon Labe
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So how does this sound:

Install all electronics, then fill any big holes/ruts with spacke.

Apply weave with the 3M 90.

Then do the thinned goop and spackle for a smooth layer for paint and lam.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 10:56 PM
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Overkill to do thinned GOOP/spackle over 3M90'd weave, laminate goes on extremely well over it. Just do the thinned GOOP/spacke over bare foam if there is any, otherwise I'd say it's not needed.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by murdnunoc View Post
I think Svede is using the thinned Goop in place of lam film, and says it's stronger than lam.
Kevlar applied with thinned GOOP is stronger then lam, not thinned GOOP alone.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:27 AM
Molon Labe
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Hm, i thought guys did spackle over the weave to get the surface smoother before lam.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BpPilot View Post
Hm, i thought guys did spackle over the weave to get the surface smoother before lam.
Some do, and I have. It gets a clean appearance to spackle/sand before spray paint.
Then after paint, you spray a coat of 90 or Loctite 200 to prime before laminating.

I've found the lam wants to come unstuck, though, when there's spackle under it at any point. The spackle just doesn't bond well to anything. Hence the Goop filler that sticks better to the underlying surface.

I think the thinned Goop/spackle will be best used for a light build without glass. It will level out the bare foam before laminating.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:28 PM
Molon Labe
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So if I am going to spackle, should I just make sure to get the whole thing covered in locktite 200? As in, no where for the lam to directly touch the spackle?

Or will the spackle still be a problem for the lam?
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