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Old Feb 23, 2010, 01:49 PM
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What can I say? When this slacker cleans up, he cleans up really well!
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Old Feb 23, 2010, 04:37 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atom1025 View Post
Jim during your venture the IYF44 did not exist, this one has your name written on it. Mine slopes awesome, I just leave the prop on and it glides great. Much tamer then demons and tl's. Check youtube for vids if you have not seen them.
Will do.. thanks
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 12:22 PM
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United States, CA, Poway
Joined Jan 2006
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Just got my new Demon from CK. Couple of questions.
First, the sparring appears different, there is one thick carbon tube spar, I am assuming this goes between the wing halves. And there are several white fiberglass rods. How should these be oriented? Also, does the main spar go in the forward or aft hole?
Second, I was under the impression that there was a better way to lay down the covering than just using 3m-90 spray for a speedy wing. How is this done using PU or gorilla glue?
thanks.
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 01:54 PM
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Did you get the DVDs and watch them?

mw
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 02:08 PM
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I have a dvd from over a year ago, has anything changed on them? if not I will just rewatch it
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 02:35 PM
resU deretsigeR
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Dublin Ca
Joined Aug 2004
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Some changes the new DVD is like 9 month over due to be done... I have all the raw video edited but....

Search on adam's posts he has a few build threads that cover the updates. ck shows a few of them in the ritewing vender thread as well.. but the basic build is the same just some fine tuning.. mostly in the light builds..
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 03:46 PM
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I still don't understand how to use the small white rods. When I built my TL-50 I had 3 carbon spars, now I only have one carbon spar and 4 much thinner white rods.
Can anyone help me?
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 05:04 PM
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Instead of having 3 carbon rods in an "A" formation, you can still use the carbon spar in one of the pre-cut holes. If you want a light build, then use the hole closest to the nose and you can cut in your motor mount area a little more. If you're looking for a heavier build, then use the rear hole. Then you can use two of the white rods on top and two on bottom, still making the "A" formation.
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 06:04 PM
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lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9PEfX78YZE
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Old Feb 24, 2010, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkz View Post
Instead of having 3 carbon rods in an "A" formation, you can still use the carbon spar in one of the pre-cut holes. If you want a light build, then use the hole closest to the nose and you can cut in your motor mount area a little more. If you're looking for a heavier build, then use the rear hole. Then you can use two of the white rods on top and two on bottom, still making the "A" formation.
I was hesitant about the glass rods, I used them on the last build just as you described, and wow!!! Very stiff! Much stiffer then the flat stock, and much lighter then the arrow shaft.
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Old Feb 25, 2010, 11:44 AM
Huh?! well waddayouknow!?
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slackers!
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Old Feb 25, 2010, 09:28 PM
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United States, CA, Poway
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Demon build progress

I now understand the fiberglass rods after taking to CK on the phone, thanks for the help!
So they make a relative I beam with the foam. Instead of single carbon shafts through the wing, you install one rod in the top and one in the bottom. The one in the bottom goes all the way from root to tip. This was the first one I installed. The top ones go from the servo location to the tip, so I have not yet glued them in until I position my servos.

One question I had was about the motor placement and cutout. CK recommended using the front spar location (with the arc 28-47-1.5 motor). Then I lined up the snap off line on the engine mount and traced it. This seems to make a huge cutout for the motor. Please let me know if it looks right in the picture. I am afraid that there will be no space for an electronics bay behind the battery one. Could the electronics be placed to the sides?
thanks for the input.
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Old Feb 25, 2010, 09:31 PM
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Move the motor back am inch or so, even if you have to ad some nose weight she will rock.
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Old Feb 26, 2010, 12:07 AM
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I moved the placement of the motor mount back by about an inch. It is now 9.5" from the nose to the front of the motor mount. I am only cutting out about 1.5" from the root for the motor cutout.

I will be glassing the front of the bottom section tonight with riteweave and PU for ultra strength.
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Old Feb 26, 2010, 12:07 AM
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the updated lines are in green.
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