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Old Dec 03, 2007, 02:44 AM
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swoof's Avatar
Upland, CA
Joined Mar 2007
581 Posts
Bayward White Cap carries a 3' x 150' roll. This makes it easier to cover the bigger wings. I had trouble finding it in Home Depot myself. You have to ask for it or check in the drywall and roofing sections.
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Old Dec 03, 2007, 07:15 PM
Mum is the word!
Joined Jun 2003
6,767 Posts
bats are here

Hey guys only a few left I sold a ton the first day.
Here is what is left.
I will get pix in a min.
Pm me if interested.
ck



3s 300 15c bat 20/22/41 mm 15.00 ea 10 avail

3s 2100 20 c 23.34/100 mm 45.00 ea 3 avail

4k 3s 20 c 24/45/150 120.00 ea 110 g per cell 2 avail

5100 3s 20 c 26/47/180 115.00 ea 125 gr per cell 5 avail

the custom 6s 5000 is 26 mm 95 mm 180 mm 245.00 1 avail

the custom 4s 5000 is 19 mm 95 mm 180 mm 185.00 3 avail
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Last edited by klique; Dec 04, 2007 at 12:29 PM.
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Old Dec 03, 2007, 07:37 PM
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Pasco County Florida
Joined Dec 2006
1,111 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by swoof
Bayward White Cap carries a 3' x 150' roll. This makes it easier to cover the bigger wings. I had trouble finding it in Home Depot myself. You have to ask for it or check in the drywall and roofing sections.
I called my White Cap salesman today and told him to get a roll for me. Well, pending price anyway. We have a Henry plant in Orlando, about a hundred miles from me, and he is going to have the roll drop shipped.

If I do get the 3 X 150 roll I would be willing to ship pieces of it if anyone is interested in getting sheets big enough for a wing. I will not know cost until my salesman gets back to me though. Should be tomorrow.

Bob
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Old Dec 07, 2007, 08:45 PM
Rejisterd Youzer
SU Jags's Avatar
Rolla, MO
Joined Apr 2004
932 Posts
Got the FS 48 glassed and ready for covering, this is my first Ritewing build so it is a bit of a learning experience. I really had trouble working the Henry where the fuse meets the wing; I pretty much had to use small patches of cloth in the curves to keep the stuff from falling apart. I think it's pretty clean overall, just a few rough spots near the fuse. I also managed to recess the battery bay lid too far (~ 1.5mm) so it's not completely flush with the top of the wing.

Anyway, now comes the most difficult part, I have NEVER used iron on covering. What would be the best approach to covering this thing? Should I cover the wing section first and then the fuse? Oh, how do I cover the elevons, should I glass them as well? Do I just need to spray them with 3M and cover, or will the covering stick without glue?

Power - I decided to go with a JGF motor mount so I can use either a 450TH or the MicroDan (hoping Dan didn't forget to make the adapter). The plane is 14oz right now, so with covering, elevons, and motor I hope it'll be in the low 20s.
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Old Dec 07, 2007, 10:17 PM
Mum is the word!
Joined Jun 2003
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Looks good bro.No need to spray the balsa it will stick fine.
On fuses I usualy pre spray then let tack up for 10 to 15 mins then aply the glass in pre cut patches.Once wing is done glassing I give each wing side a good coat of 90 on the high setting.

Let your wing dry for at least 24 hrs or more before mono coating ,also do not re aply any spray glue prior to mono coating this might distort your foil b y softening it back up again.

I let my wings usually dry for 2 to 3 days before mono ing.
Take your time mono coating ,and work from the middle of the wings outward to keep from distorting the thin wingtips.

Good luck and take your time she looks sweet.
Ck

Quote:
Originally Posted by SU Jags
Got the FS 48 glassed and ready for covering, this is my first Ritewing build so it is a bit of a learning experience. I really had trouble working the Henry where the fuse meets the wing; I pretty much had to use small patches of cloth in the curves to keep the stuff from falling apart. I think it's pretty clean overall, just a few rough spots near the fuse. I also managed to recess the battery bay lid too far (~ 1.5mm) so it's not completely flush with the top of the wing.

Anyway, now comes the most difficult part, I have NEVER used iron on covering. What would be the best approach to covering this thing? Should I cover the wing section first and then the fuse? Oh, how do I cover the elevons, should I glass them as well? Do I just need to spray them with 3M and cover, or will the covering stick without glue?

Power - I decided to go with a JGF motor mount so I can use either a 450TH or the MicroDan (hoping Dan didn't forget to make the adapter). The plane is 14oz right now, so with covering, elevons, and motor I hope it'll be in the low 20s.
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Last edited by klique; Dec 08, 2007 at 12:12 AM.
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Old Dec 07, 2007, 11:59 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
Hey man even I have trouble glassing around the fuse where it meets the wing. You have to make reliefs and you get stuck putting in a piece where it meets the wing. No way around it.

Great job with the build.

Cover one wing half at a time, it makes the job easier. Does'nt really matter if you do the fuse first or later. Covering the fuse is similiar to laying glass. Lots of relief cuts and patches.

Do as chris says and mist(as well as 90 can) a layer of 3m90 over the whole wing, just as if it were spray paint. Not thick, just a quick mist. Let it dry overnight and then cover. Sticks like stink.

adam

ps as far as I know Dan is making the mounts. I don't want to be a nag and he is busy as heck with his work and the holidays.
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 12:17 PM
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twilkers's Avatar
Livermore, CA
Joined Jan 2007
919 Posts
Since we're talking FS48, here are a few pics of mine and the planned color scheme. Kudos to Adam for the vert routing scheme which I really like. Gooped nose and wingtips for additional strength per CK suggestion which I like as well.
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Old Dec 09, 2007, 02:32 AM
Fly me to the moon...
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Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
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Looks good Tim. What about centering the blue triangle and then putting a smaller yellow triangle inside the blue one?

If I had to choose I do like the right better.

So my planes were taking up to much space so I made a rack. This rack has 12 levels but could hold twice that if I doubled each level. Doubt I will ever have that many wings.....

I uses a 1x1" and 1/2" dowels. Not the cheapest route but not to horrible. Easy as heck to make. I also bought some foam insulators to cover the dowels but I may not need to use them.

Adam
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Old Dec 09, 2007, 07:49 AM
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methos's Avatar
Canada
Joined Jun 2006
384 Posts
Well Adam, if you completely run out of space and you need a home for a wing, I'm here to help ya bro
I have LOTS of room left!! j/k

By the way, I have finally got my APC 6x4 sport props in the mail and I'm going to test them out on 3 and 4s on the MicroDan motor very soon.
Unless you've tested them already?

Ed
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Old Dec 09, 2007, 04:07 PM
Fly me to the moon...
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Sacramento
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No test yet but please report your findings. If here is anyway for ou to measure thrust that would be killer.
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Old Dec 12, 2007, 09:49 PM
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Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
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Thought you might like this


Hers how its done. Only takes 15 mins to setup and an hour to cure.

Cut a piece of henry the size of the bay floor.

cut a piece of mylar the size of the bay floor.

cut a block of scrap epp the size of the bay floor.

Wipe mold release wax on the block of foam. Or anywhere else you dont want glue to stick. Vaseline will work also.

Mix a silver dollar sized pile of pu with as much water as it will take.

Paint the batt bay floor with a thin layer of PU. Use a scrap of epp for a brush

Lay the glass on the floor and smooth it out

Paint another thin layer of PU over this. Less is more in this case.

Lay the mylar flat over the glass.

Lay the foam block on top of the mylar and weigh it down so the mylar takes' the shape of the bay floor.(do this while the bird is in its bed)

Let it dry for an hour. If done rite everything comes out cleanly.

What your left with is a super thin, super strong, very flexible, bay floor.

Its not brittle in the slightest. Very cool look. Glass smooth and has that kevlar composit look as you can see the glass.

The reason I do this is because it eliminates cutting the bay floor out and installing coro. It never looks the same and is impossible to hide. This way The airfoil stay the same while still giving room for those thicker packs.

Believe it or not this only added 10 grams. Even if it adds more it ahead of the CG just where you need it.

Any thoughts or questions on this.
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Old Dec 13, 2007, 12:07 AM
I B Chargin'
Charger's Avatar
Arizona
Joined Aug 2003
1,525 Posts
So you cut the foam out with a hot wire loop to where the foam in the bottom of the bay is about 1/4" ? It would be great if the pu penetrated sideways into the foam and not leak out the bottom much. It would be nice if some pu creeped up the inside of the bay to make a little tray that was locked into the foam. I wonder if watersoluble lubricant would be less messy, or would the pu move right through it?? Great idea!!
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Old Dec 13, 2007, 08:23 AM
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Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
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This is my third time doing this and for some reason no glue leaks down through the bottom. You could theoretically do it so the walls foam up also like you were describing. Never thought about that.

Actually I hot wire the foam till its 2-3mm thick, basically as thin as I feel comfortable with. Even if you break through here or there it fills in with PU.

Let me know what you thin when you see it in person.

Adam
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Old Dec 14, 2007, 03:33 PM
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Canada
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384 Posts
Well I have tested the APC 6x4 sport prop with the MicroDan 2505 speed motor on 3s and wow the thrust was amazing... I can't tell you exactly what the thrust was, but my 30oz Sportster had unlimited vertical at about 2/3 throttle

Static it pulled 38.5 amps at 415 watts from my 2 x 2200 3s extreme packs in parallel.
This motor could fly at WOT all day at these power levels and not break a sweat.

The speed wasn't amazing though, again I have to guess, but I'd say around 90 - 95 mph level.

Sorry I can't give exact figures, but I lack any test equipment other than actual flight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atom1025
No test yet but please report your findings. If here is anyway for ou to measure thrust that would be killer.
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Old Dec 14, 2007, 06:34 PM
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Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
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Sounds like a winner!

Soon there will be a superlite TL50 flying this setup. Estimated AUW is in the 35-40oz range.

Adam
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