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Old May 15, 2007, 12:32 AM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
I use the spackle over the spars and any holes, or whatnot. I will show some pics of what I like to do, its hard to explain. I don't do the whole wing however.

I like to use epoxy mixed with microlight. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...microlight.php

It dries quckly, easy to sand, flexible, yet extremly strong, but it adds alot more weight.

For this build I wanted to use something readily available plus I want to keep this one lighter then my last one. You know always have to do better then the last one!
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Old May 15, 2007, 01:28 AM
resU deretsigeR
PaulVi's Avatar
Dublin Ca
Joined Aug 2004
7,787 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atom1025
I use the spackle over the spars and any holes, or whatnot. I will show some pics of what I like to do, its hard to explain. I don't do the whole wing however.

I like to use epoxy mixed with microlight. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...microlight.php

It dries quckly, easy to sand, flexible, yet extremly strong, but it adds alot more weight.

For this build I wanted to use something readily available plus I want to keep this one lighter then my last one. You know always have to do better then the last one!

Whewww for a minute i thoiught you were doing the whole wing.. BTW i like the mount install looks like it would be simpler to get the starting thrust angle right.. although i worrry about the longevity of hot glue on a piese of metle have you thought about gooping the mount in it creates a bond that does not weaken over time..

And doing the mount the way you showwould alow for much less glue in the tail it could be spread thinner from the start
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Old May 15, 2007, 08:31 AM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
Yeah, I have done it both ways, goop works great, so far hot glue works. I'd say if you have the time use goop. I guess time will tell regarding the hot glue

Yeah I really like this method better the the vid, the one in the vid makes it easy to get the plate crooked. I feel a lot better being able to see what I am working on.

I believe Chris is going to draw up a template to get the thrust angle close. Basically print it, cut it, place it on the wing, and check your angle.

Adam
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Old May 15, 2007, 11:42 AM
resU deretsigeR
PaulVi's Avatar
Dublin Ca
Joined Aug 2004
7,787 Posts
Looks like it may be time to update the video...

Keep up the good work. Did you get my motor info i pm'ed you
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Old May 15, 2007, 07:01 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
Yep, its been added to the list, some of it anyways.
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Old May 16, 2007, 03:51 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
I have the bottom glassed, its curing now, the top will be glassed by tonight!

I also have the Prepping for Glass portion added to the front page!
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Old May 17, 2007, 10:40 AM
Registered User
N Cal
Joined Jun 2003
236 Posts
What a great help this build log is, thanks! It inspired me to tackle this build. TL 50 and motor system is on the way. Im the guy walking around the LHS with your list on a clipboard. Qs: 1) At the nosetip, how did you handle the overlap/seam? 2) At the motormount, did you make the glass flat where it contacts the metal? The pic looks like it isnt. 3) On double glassing the battery bays, is this optional if weight is a priority? How about double layering with 1/2" strips in key areas? Thanks again.
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Old May 17, 2007, 11:30 AM
Purples a fruit
punkrockd's Avatar
Walnut Creek
Joined Aug 2006
1,279 Posts
you can build it to you're specific needs or wants.

on the nose i like to just make it smooth. i'll trim the glass once it is dry if any fibers are stickin up. i've sprayed a bit more glue on the seam and that has helped to float it a bit.

i first cut the foam around the mount so the metal is exposed and perfect for the clam shell. then glass the area. i cut the glass off the metal. and use a bit more glue to make sure its down. others may disagree or have thier own. other then that i cover the motor mount with monokote.

the battery bay i recommend a few layers or what tasajara and adam have shown. a layer of henry's lining the battery bay with goop. thats a good idear.

when you get the batt bay cut you will notice how thin the foam can be. and that will aid in your decision

most of all enjoy the build it is fun.
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Old May 17, 2007, 11:33 AM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by winghead
What a great help this build log is, thanks! It inspired me to tackle this build. TL 50 and motor system is on the way. Im the guy walking around the LHS with your list on a clipboard. Qs: 1) At the nosetip, how did you handle the overlap/seam? 2) At the motormount, did you make the glass flat where it contacts the metal? The pic looks like it isnt. 3) On double glassing the battery bays, is this optional if weight is a priority? How about double layering with 1/2" strips in key areas? Thanks again.
On the LE cap, you don't have to worry about the overlap seam, you can cut the glass down to size for no overlap. Or have it overlap a 1/4" on each side. There really is no wrong way. I'd say use some overlap if its your first build to keep things simple, but again its your choice.

Welll, the glass is as flat as it can be around the motor mount. You just try and manipulate it the best you can. Once the clamp goes on this area is never seen so, its not a problem area. Leaving the glass around this area is a must as it gives the mount plate its stiffness and strength.

It really depends on your build and what you expect from the plane. Lets say you gave a superthin battery bay, Starting at the TE of the batt bay I would double glass from this point all the way up to the nose, on top and bottom.

Anything is optional with this build. I could of got away with a single layer over the batt bay but I gave it a little extra. This stuff will add weight but in the right places you'll benifit from it. Keep CG in mind, only double up ahead of the CG when possible.

Now if your going to break the sound barrier, you need more reinforcement. Build it like the video shows. Use 1/4" overlap. And criss cross in the middle for torsional strength.

The pics are of my first build. This was a TL40 lite and it came out lite. I run 3s2p 4200 prolites in this one.

Ask as many questions as you like.
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Last edited by Atom1025; May 17, 2007 at 11:38 AM.
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Old May 17, 2007, 11:47 AM
Registered User
N Cal
Joined Jun 2003
236 Posts
Thanks.
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Old May 18, 2007, 01:02 AM
LOVE TO FLY!!!!!!
Joined Oct 2006
13 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atom1025
Yeah, I have done it both ways, goop works great, so far hot glue works. I'd say if you have the time use goop. I guess time will tell regarding the hot glue

Yeah I really like this method better the the vid, the one in the vid makes it easy to get the plate crooked. I feel a lot better being able to see what I am working on.

I believe Chris is going to draw up a template to get the thrust angle close. Basically print it, cut it, place it on the wing, and check your angle.

Adam
HI ADAM,
I'M HAVING PROBLEMS GETTING MY THRUST ANGLE CORRECTLY ON THE DEMON.
VIDEO SHOW THE CUT TO BE ABOVE THE CF.
MY PROBLEM IS WHEN I DO CUT THE CENTER OF THE MOTOR MOUNT AREA OF THE EPP, THE CUT FROM CENTER TO CF IS ANGLED UPWARD TOWARDS THE PLANE.IS THIS CORRECT?
I THOUGHT THE CENTER LINE WAS FROM THE TIP TO THE REAR CENTER?
PLEASE HELP?
THANKS
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Old May 18, 2007, 11:14 AM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
Sounds like you got it rite! If its from the center of the TE and sits a top of the internal CF spar, you have it rite.

Don't stress off it to much as adjusting the thrust angle is easy.
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Old May 18, 2007, 01:04 PM
LOVE TO FLY!!!!!!
Joined Oct 2006
13 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atom1025
Sounds like you got it rite! If its from the center of the TE and sits a top of the internal CF spar, you have it rite.

Don't stress off it to much as adjusting the thrust angle is easy.
THANKS ADAM
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Old Jun 01, 2007, 10:15 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
Flew the new 50 lite today. Heavier then I wanted, I was aiming for 40oz which is high hopes. It came in at 44oz AUW.

I went with the 4s 4000 Maxamps, Het 4w, and 6x4E.

I really dig this setup more then the 3s and 7x4 setup. Its less draggy without that huge prop, higher speed, thrust actually seemed better.

The plane was very responsive compared to its heavier brother. The maiden was smooth and uneventful. I need to take it out on a not so windy day to dial it in.

I will have pics shortly, my camera system took a dump so I am using my inlaws camera so it has to go through their computer first and then get emailed to me. I'll keep ya'all posted.

Next up, either the TL60 or a 40 Demon ultralite?
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Last edited by Atom1025; Jun 01, 2007 at 10:50 PM. Reason: sepling
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Old Jun 01, 2007, 11:25 PM
I B Chargin'
Charger's Avatar
Arizona
Joined Aug 2003
1,525 Posts
Ck built me a light TL50 18 months ago. It's AUW was 40.5 oz with 4s poly 3700's. I flew the living out of it. It was the perfect plane. Apparently I had a loose servo last weekend and it went in hard during just a basic climb out. Just about ripped the wing in half and tore the nose off I was flying one month old 4000 MaxAmps and one two cell went up in smoke. Kinda glad, ordered a new pair of poly 3700 2s's today.
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