The Ritewing Build Thread

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 02:50 AM

The purpose of this thread is to consolidate everything Ritewing related into one simple to navigate thread.

The greatest thing about Ritewing builds is the options to do things "your way" There are so many different techniques and everybody adapts to building these in different manners. I would like for all of us to share info and help keep track of the ever evolving Rite build. I want you to share your build techniques, tips and tricks, your favorite power system, and anything else relative to Ritewings.

I'd like to thank everyone who supports Chris and his Ritewings! All of us have made a difference! And Thankyou Chris for not only sharing with us the best flying wings, but also being a friend to us all! You Rock!

CAUTION!!!

When dealing with high power R/C models there are inherent dangers. Please be fully aware of all dangers before you attempt to build or fly any R/C model. If there is something you don't understand please ask!

Some things to keep in mind, These planes can weigh up to four pounds and can travel over 100mph,there is enough energy in these to cause major damage and even death. Please be aware of your surroundings and especially any humans that may be nearby. Things happen quickly at these speeds and there is little time to react.

These high power systems have great potential for fires! Most all the equipment we use are being pushed to the extremes of their capabilities. Lipos can make intense flames if ignited! Please be aware of your surroundings, flying in a dry grassy area may not be the best choice. It is advised that a fire extinguisher be on hand at all times.

Its very wise to have your receiver powered by a separate powersource, be it a 5cell Nimh rxpack, or a small 2-3s lipo and a bec. In the case of esc, battery, or motor failure this will leave you in control of you model and allow you time to land the model.

Keep yours and others body parts out of reach of the prop, there is enough power to dismember a finger!

Being that this is a public forum any and all setups suggested are not guaranteed to be successful, please understand and research all equipment before you attempt to fly. You are responsible for your own choices when choosing a powersystem. What works for some may not work for others, be aware the elevation and other variables will affect what a given power system will do.

This thread is created by avid Ritewing enthusiast, Ritewing as a company holds no responsibility to what may or may not be suggested in this thread. By understanding this you are responsible for yourself and others safety, proceed at your own risk.

Great Ritewing threads!

Ritewings in the news and History

History lesson of CK and Ritewings
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306952

Need Testers
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425922

Ritewings published in "FlyRC"
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=680959

Ritewing published in "RC Sportsflier"
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Ritewing on All Things That Fly, podcast
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...43#post9287739

Cks Ritewing Gallery
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Various Ritewing build threads

The Mini Demon and FS33 build thread
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Blasting 1950 watt 7 s demon
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing

Demon 45 twin
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing

CK's 40 Demon w/ 36mm brushless!!!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/searc...&pp=25&page=10

TL Sicksty!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Pauls 36 inch Demon build
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584574

Pauls 30 inch unsanctioned Demon build
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=525564

Pauls 36 LGT and IYF 44 Slope build
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971566

chuckand's Mini Demon Build
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=516389

chuckand's Ritewing 40" TL Build
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=501588

chuckand's When less is more (36" Ritewing)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=541024

chuckand's RiteWing 50" TL Build
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=482279

IBWingnutz Mini Demon Build With LS motor
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing

TaSaJaRa's Ritewing "TL 50" Build pics & video
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing

Ab8ug's First Ritewing Build
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

BroncoMechs FS48 Sloper
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Reefboys FS36 Lightning
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=851398

Ritewing Video Threads
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=891665
150mph on 4s!!! http://www.glamisweather.com/seff08/4shighspeed.wmv
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452121
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...mentid=1110816
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1161

Random Garage talk and Ritewing discussions

Ritewing Rehabilitation Clinic
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Pictures of my Demon Family
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing

Ritewing TL 50 ordered! Have a powerplant question
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing

The 36 "Light"ning Review and video
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1087
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1161

Making connectors, By TaSaJaRa
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=146

Official Unofficial Ritewing Meet. We had 7 Ritewings in the air at once. Some awesome videos on the last couple pages.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=ritewing+meet

CK hits 178 at SEFF
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

200 MPH Ritewing Club???
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Ritewings at AEF
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Methos 36 Sportster experience
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Reefboy's TL50 experience
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

Mark Wood is officially a slacker!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing

IYF Quick Builds
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1046727

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 02:51 AM

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 02:52 AM

Please no theoretical setups, just what you have and fly personally.

Ritewing Power System Share Center

Notice
Bare in mind these layouts are just to give you a rough idea of where to make your marks, your actual gear will determine the final layout. These are layouts I have used and 3 of the 4 balanced with little to no lead using the gear described.

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 02:57 AM

So here is how every kit comes out of the incredibly well packaged box.( Pics at the bottom)

You get two beautiful wing cores tucked nicely in their beds, two high grade balsa elevon stocks, 3 high quality carbon spars,(spars may vary depending on the model) enough 2mm coroplast to do your bay lids, one motor mount kit, and two cleanly cut wingtips.

What you'll need to complete the build:

HARDWARE/ BUILDING SUPPLIES

Surface control Hardware

Buried rods:
You'll need at least 2 feet of high quality Gold N Rod, there are many brands and styles to use but I recommend Dubro Lazer with 2-56 hardware. Grab two control horns of your favorite flavor while your at it. Do not use nylon clevis' Only use the metal variety.

Exposed rods will require two 2/56 steel pushrods and two control horns of your favorite flavor.

Henry's 183: You'll need 2 rolls. One can probably get a 40 covered but get two, last thing you want is to run short of glass in the middle of a build. Link courtesy of Paulvi, can also be found at most Home Depot's in the roofing section.

Another option if you feel like experimenting? PaulVi has used this stuff before: http://www.whitecapdirect.com/store/...h=8&text=113YJ

3M90: One can will be fine, Only use 3M90! This is found at Local hardware store or craft store.

Gorilla Glue: Used for spars, again at local hardware store. Elmer's PU will also suffice. White is for quick setups brown takes much longer. Its honestly a personal preference, Each has their pros and cons.

Goop: Any brand any flavor, they all work the same for the most part, again local hardware store.

Ultra light weight Spackle: Found at hardware store.

Hot Glue: Optional but comes in handy.

Monokote: One roll will cover the top and bottom of a 50. Use contrasting colors, pick one or two other colors to add flavor and contrast. I highly recommend the neon's for accents. (Use any other brand of covering at your own risk! Monokote fits this application best!)

ELECTRONICS
x2 servos: Don't get cheap here! These servos will be buried and the last thing you want to do is chop up your beautiful wing to fix a stripped servo! Digital servos are highly recommended here as precision is key to a great flier. These are the favorites rite now. You can get 4 for $80 quite often on Ebay or the For sale section...

x1 Brushless motor: This is strictly up to you, do your research and figure out what you want. Power systems will be covered in another post.

x1 Brushless esc: Again whatever suits your needs.

Batteries: Batteries will need to match your motor choice.

x1 Receiver: Again, this is the last place you want to get cheap! This is not a toy! Were talking a 2-3lb plane blasting around at 100mph+++. This thing gets small fast! Use something that's trusted.

Rx Power Supply: You will need to either run a 5cell rx pack strait to the receiver or Use 2-4s lipo through a BEC When running 2.4 I highly suggest a 6v supply as the servos really pull some juice and you dont want to sag below the rx limits.

TOOLS

Soldering gun: You will need this to cut the bays, the dremel with router attachment is another option you can use if you don't wish to buy the gun. However the Gun has its benefits.

Soldering iron: What we do here is use a screw to replace the soldering tip, this is used to cut spar slots. I'll get into more details later regarding the soldering tools.

Razor Knife: You need to get the snap off blade style knife and extra blades, you'll see why later.

Strait edge and square: (self explanatory)

Plastic Putty knife: Used to apply the glass and filler.

Basic stuff: Screwdrivers, sledge hammer, etc.

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:06 AM

So to start off this build! First of all take a deep breath and quit dancing around like a school girl who's about to get her first kiss. Yes this is extremely exciting but patience is the most important part of this build!

I don't know if I got lucky or CK is that good, but the wing beds are level and need no shimming! Also take note that the wings are almost symmetrical so you will use the bed for the top and bottom, it doesn't matter, there is no need to make two separate wing beds.

OK, take note of whats written on the wing beds before you go yanking' them out of the beds and forget whats top and bottom. There should be something written on the top, usually what model, etc. Then on the root (the surface of the wing that will be glued to the mating half) there should be an arrow pointing up. Now go ahead and yank the wings out and mark a big fat "T" on the top towards the tip using a yellow sharpee. Don't worry as this will never be seen once finished! (Black sharpee can be seen through light coverings.) Repeat on the other half. Now you won't sit there and scratch your head wondering what side the top is once the cores are joined. Sure it sounds like a stupid step but it happens all the time! While you got the marker out , mark the top of the root as seen in pic four. Pic five shows why!

Now you can play with your cores and run around the house making zoom noises all you want!

Next take that sharp razor knife and carefully split the top half of the wing bed off. On a perfectly flat surface, align the two bottom bed half's side by side. You'll notice that one side may be lower then the other by 1-4mm. If its not then lucky you!(Kliques new cores should not need this step but check first and adjust if needed) So your going to have to prop the low half up till the two wing beds are perfectly aligned. This may be the most important step of the whole build! If you get this wrong your wing may never fly rite. Use something sturdy to adjust the height, I will usually use 2-4mm coroplast, ply-sheet, balsa-sheet, thick heavy duty poster board, etc. Whatever it takes to get the halves perfect. Once the height looks good you may or may not choose to join the bed halves, I do not as sometimes spreading the halves is necessary.

You now have a perfect wing bed.Your wing will be in this bed for the majority of the build. The bed will help your wing keep its shape and will help you avoid any twist in the wing. I always leave my wing in the bed with weights on the trailing edge when I am not working on it.

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:22 AM

My process is totally optional but I thought I'd share. The basics still apply if you choose to make your marks after the cores are joined. This is something I learned building Superflys. I forget who turned me onto it but it was a great help. This step can be done after the wings are joined but I find this helps me keep things square! In order to use this to your benefit you'll have to know exactly what gear you are putting in your plane.

Most folks wait to draw their battery bays etc. on till after the wings are joined. This is totally fine for your average Joe but I am a perfectionist bordering on OCD. I like to mark out my bays before the wing halves are even joined. Why you may ask? I can run my square against the root to ensure a perfectly square line. Also I am not guessing where the spar is located later in the build.

Your measurements will vary depending on model and choice of gear. General rule of thumb is get everything as far forward as possible. I have a few templates located in the first post to get you a general idea of gear placement.

Servos should be placed as far forward as safely possible. Keep in mind you'll need to sink the about 2mm deeper then the surface of the wing which will allow you to cap the servo with foam. Majority of builds I do now have exposed servo rods. Its easier, lighter and more adjustable.

Now place your motor mount on the wing so its leading edge is over the spar. Use your square to get it square and trace it out. Then from the trailing edge of the motor mount measure out 3.125" and make a mark, now measure from the root to the absolute trailing edge 4-5" depending on your taste and make a mark, connect the dots and you now have the prop slot measurements

All right, mate the other half of the wing and align the cores. Transfer all marks over to that half and repeat the process.

You now have everything marked out on your wing!

Adding hood latches: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1124

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:28 AM

Next Step: Before you join the cores, take some wax paper, monokote backing, or any other nonstick material and place it on the wing beds you constructed in the previous post.

The 40 and 50 come with two spar options, one forward one aft. If you want a crazy fast setup that needs a lot of batteries, use the aft option. If you wish to keep it lite and use smaller batteries use the forward option.

Take your spar and do a dry fit of the cores, making sure alignment is perfect, you may need to cut down the spar to fit. Once you are satisfied with the alignment, take it all apart.

Grab the Gorilla glue and a spray bottle filled with water. Stick the nozzle of the glue in the correct spar hole and give her a good hearty squeeze for a couple seconds. Then stick the nozzle of the spray bottle up to the hole and give a couple squeezes. Stick the CF rod into the hole and work it in and out like a butter churner. Once satisfied repeat the glue and water process on the other half. But before you put the rod in the other half and start churning take your 3M90 spray adhesive and give a full coverage coat on the root of both halves. Now you can start churning the rod into the other half.

Smoosh the two halves together. It may take 3 mins or it may take 20 but eventually that 3M90 will grab! Another option is to hot Glue the halves together but you have to work quick and you get no second chances. The 3M90 gives you plenty of time to assure proper alignment. Check the top and bottom repeatedly to make sure alignment is proper.

When satisfied place the wing in the bed and set some weights across the trailing edge only. Nothing major, just some books or weight lifting rings, whatever you've got. Let the wing sit for an hour or two, go fly, have a spot of tea, etc.

When you come back you'll probably notice that the Gorilla glue has foamed through the wing cores to the surface. No worries! Remove the long razor blade from the knife and place it flat on the wing, slide the blade back and forth against the excess glue and cut it off. Sand with some light grit paper to assure there are no high spots.

Voila! This step is now complete! If you have not made your marks for the bays you can do so now.

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:38 AM

Now the leading edge spars are not a requirement. My CK built TL40 had a single spar and flew just wonderfully. The glass is enough to avoid flexing at over 100mph. If you are looking at breaking the sound barrier, the spars are necessary.

Pick up some cheapo 25-40watt soldering iron or use that old beater you got sitting in the tool drawer. You can use many different screws. However I use a 10-32 socket cap screw that I modified on my grinder. All I can say here is there is no wrong way to go about this. Use whatever hardware you got around the house and some creativity. Do some practice runs on a scrap and check how the spar fits. Adjust it til' you are happy.

Grab a ruler/square and mark 3-5" back from the nose. Go to the tip of the wings and measure 2-3" from the trailing edge. Connect the dots and you've got the spar placement marked. I really don't think spar placement is detrimental. As long as its there and it does its job I'm happy. So don't stress off the placement for to long just slap down some marks. I personally try to get the spars under the servos, but that's just me. Now depending on the placement you may cross the internal spar. Nothing to worry about if you do. Just take a dremel and cut through that spot. You will not lose any strength in this area.

The spar slots should not be too tight or they could spread and distort the wing and create a hump in the bottom. This can give the plane some strange tendencies while flying. Always check for spar fit, length and alignment prior to assembly.

Now take a strait edge and run it along the mark. Starting from the tip to the root. Drag the superheated screw through the core at a steady, smooth, stable pace. When you get to the center pull the iron up and out. Repeat this process on the other side.

Check the fit of the CF rod and make sure its level or slightly below the wing plane. If satisfied grab the Gorilla glue and squeeze a 1/16-1/8" bead down the spar slot, remember a little goes a long way. Spray with water and then use whatever to mix the glue and water up. Snap the spars in place. I place the wing top down into the wing bed. I then take some non stick film leftover from monokote and lay it over the spars. I use 1"x1/8" stock aluminum I have lying around and lay it over the spars. with some weights on top. Keeping it in the bed retains the wings shape while the spars are drying. The Aluminum stock and weight basically keeps the excess glue foam from getting out of hand. When the glue is dry I only have to sand the glue foam a little bit.

And that's how ya' install the leading edge spars. It's recommended that you put a few layers of Spackle over the spars otherwise you can see it through the covering.

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:41 AM

Here is my take on this process. I prefer to cut the Coroplast lid shelf before I do anything else. The main reason is because its much more difficult to cut the shelf once the bays are cut. It can be done, but I have much less control over the router.

Lid Shelf

I have marked the places to be routed with a green marker just so its easier to see in the pics what I am cutting. (Pic one)

I set the Dremel router to 2mm depth. I do a few test runs on a scrap to verify the depth is correct.

Then I cut in between the lines! Nothing to it! The only spot caution should be taken is at the leading edge an inch to each side of the root at the peak. Do not press down in this area! For some reason the cutter seems to cut deeper in this spot. So just float the cutter over this area! All done with the shelf, only took a few minutes.(pic three)

Battery/electronics Bays

Now for the bays. You can use the router bit for this or use CK's method. I use CK's method because it cauterizes the foam as it cuts which seems to add some strength. Pic four shows the custom tool used to cut the bays. Its simply a piece of 12g copper wire formed into the desired shape. Nothing fancy! Be sure to get plenty of practice with this tool before attacking the wing.

Now practice with the soldering gun on some scrap. You just melt out between the lines. For a first timer you should only take a little bit at a time. Then check the thickness of the floor and and take a little more. The depth of the cut really depends on the batts you plan to use.( Keep the Batts under 25mm thickness.)

Now if you so happen to cut to deep, don't worry the fix is simple. Some even do this right off the bat if they know they will need the extra room for batteries and electronics. Basically you cut a shelf on the bottom of the wing just like you did for the coroplast lids. Slap in a piece of coro with some goop or hot glue and your good to go.

TaSaJaRa turned me onto a new idea and I gave it a shot. Seems to be effective. You basically spread a thin layer of goop on the batt bay floor and then press a piece of Henery's glass into it then smear some more on top. Sure it adds a bit of weight but the weight is ahead of the CG and you'll actually benifit from this. The added strength will also be a benifit. Pic 7

I forgot to draw out the velcro tabs earlier in the build so in pics 8-9 you can see the added tabs. I basically cut the velcro tabs 4mm deep. There is also an alternative way to do the tabs but I wanted to try something new.

Installing the lids
This part is easy. Measure out the lid for the battery bay, making sure that the flutes are running left to right. Test fit the lid, once satisfied go about 1/2 to 2/3rds back and carefully cut one half of the flute, look at pic 11 to get a visual. Make sure the door opens wide enough for your batts to fit in. This will be the hinge on your battery bay. I also mark the top of the lid so I don't glue it in backwards.

I like to take the leading edge, bend and hold it for a bit, basically forming it to the shape of the airfoil.(pic 12)

You can now use a hot glue gun to secure the lids. Pic 13

The electronics bay has the same principle but instead of having one large bay door, you should cut smaller access panels as shown in pic 16. The picture should be pretty self explanatory. This method was noted to add a bit more strength to the center of the wing compared to one big bay door. Glue the lid on, and your finished with the bays!

Optional
The antenna can be permanently secured in the wing by making a slit and tucking it in or you can use a plastic tube available at the hobby shop, same stuff thats in the gold N rod. Before glueing the lid on, make a groove with your dremel from bay to tip(pic 17-19) Do not glue this tube in until the Golden Rods are secured, but before the lid is attached. Later when your ready to install the gear use some music wire, etc. to fish the antenna through the tube! Replacing a reciever is now simple!

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:41 AM

For this step I use the dremel. I take a needle and poke it through the top until I hit the spar. I then mark the depth of the needle and use that to gauge the depth setting on the cutter. Then I cut between the lines. You want the cut as deep as possible without hitting the spar. Note the extra notch I made for the servo wires and mount tabs. (pic one)

OK, now I will cut the Gold n Rod slot. I use the same tool that I use for the spars as they are roughly the same dimensions. Now putting this next step into words is tough so just look at pics three and four. Basically I prop up the trailing edge of the strait edge so that the cut will taper off towards the end. I want the rod to exit at 3" forward of the trailing edge.

Now cut off roughly one foot of the Gold n Rod. Hook up the linkage to the servo. The linkage is easy but may confuse the first timers so I will do a quick review. There should be a short threaded rod, a clevis, and a band that holds the clevis shut. To make things easier you should have some 2-56 nuts as well but they are not required. Put the assembly together as shown in pic six. Then grasp the clevis and turn the threads into the inner rod. You may need to use needle nose pliers as the rod is hard to grasp.

Now you will need to snip the horn off just above the second hole. Be sure to leave as much meat as possible as strength around this hole is detrimental. Clip the clevis to the servo horn. The hole on the horn may need to be enlarged slightly. You don't want any play in the linkage, but you don't want any binding neither. Its a fine line. The horn and linkage should be at least 1-2mm blow the surface of the wing.

Slide the red sheath over the rod. Dry fit the servo and Golden rod. At this point make sure your servo is centered and moving freely. I will move the stick from corner to corn to make sure there is no binding. Now with the rod temporarily in place measure up 2-2.5" inches from the trailing edge and make a mark on the red sheath. Slide the red sheath off and snip it at your mark. The red sheath is now the correct Length and will not be cut anymore.

Now remove the servo and shoot some hot glue or goop on the bottom of the servo. Press it into place and hold firmly for a minute till the hot glue dries. Do not get any glue on the moving parts!

Now shoot a small bead of hot glue down the Gold n Rod slot and press it into its place. Also use a scrap of red sheath and prop up the back of the rod to add height. (pic 11)

To finish it off. cut a scrap of foam and glue it over the servo. Take your blade out of the snap off knife and slide it back and forth over the wing to remove the excess foam.(pic 13)

Your servos are now installed!

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:42 AM

Chris shows one way to do this in his video that works just fine, I have done this on most of my Ritewings. However great care must be taken to assure the plate is not glued in crooked.

So Chris told me to try a new way on my 36 Demon and I really like this way much better.

This is a tough one to type out so I'll let the pictures do the talking. If there is anything unclear or something you don't understand let me know in this thread and I will try and clear it up.

Adam

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:43 AM

So now is the time when you want to go through and fix any holes blemishes, or low spots.

If you haven't done so yet, go ahead and trim the excess spars hanging off the tips with a dremel and cut off wheel or hack saw.

Now this step is optional, your average plane you would bevel the balsa elevon. Which is fine. If you prefer this method then go for it. However I prefer to cut the bevel on the trailing edge of the foam. Do what ever you are comfortable with.

Take the lightweight Spackle and a putty knife. Use this to float over the spar slots, holes, or anything else you think needs it. Keep in mind that as the wing sits now will act as a mirror once the glass is installed. Everything will reflect through to the surface. So its really up to you how clean you want the finish.

I like to lay my float on thick and then sand it smooth and level, Otherwise it could sink/shrink a little on you and you'll have to float it again. This stuff is almost weightless so don't hold back! The key areas to float on the bottom are the spar slots. Float them sand them and then move to the top. The top shouldn't have much to float other then the antenna tube, if you used one. Take a good look over the surface and float any imperfections.

I like to go a little farther then required and chamfer each side of the gold n rod. I only do this for looks it has no noticeable affect on the plane. I just take some Spackle, and use a round object and drag across it to get that half pipe shape. Sand a little when finished.

Take a black marker and outline the bay doors and where the hinge is. This will help you find where to cut once the glass is on. If you forget this step its next to impossible to find the bay doors again. Spray some 3M90 on first and then tape the bay doors closed. This will keep you from fighting the doors popping open while glassing.

Take a piece of scrap coro and block the servo horn and linkage. Spray around the servo with 3M90, then use some tape to cover the exposed linkage. Strapping tape is good for this application, but use what you have. I put two layers of tape down to add some firmness to the area.

You'll also have to take the wing bed and cut some slots in it where the Gold n Rod will sit when the core is top side down. Take a look at pic 11 to get the idea.

Basically take your time to inspect the wing and fix whatever you see now, once the glass is on there is no going back!

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:44 AM

For this part of the build there is no wrong way to do this! Everyone will have there own take on it. Do as you see fit!

I highly recommend watching the video for this process, as seeing it in action replaces 1,000 words. I am going for a lite build so I am not overlapping anywhere, only one layer across the whole thing. For your average build you'll want to double up the glass in key areas. Only double up ahead of the CG! You only need a single layer behind the CG, anymore then that will make it more difficult to achieve the CG. I'll usually put two layers on the bottom starting at the battery bay up to the nose! Also note that in the video Chris overlaps every layer of glass, that is fine to do but we have discovered overlap should be kept under a 1/4"- none at all.

Please work in a well ventilated area! This glue is strong!!! Its not a good feeling! (pic one)

So I'll start at the bottom. Flip the model top down in the bed. Be sure the surface is clean and free of debris. I wipe it down with a damp cloth and let it dry.

Cut two pieces of glass, one for each half of the trailing edge.(pic two) Place it so three inches, approximately half of a 6" piece is hanging over the trailing edge. Now only work with one piece/one half at a time, you don't want to get ahead of yourself. Make sure your 3M90 is open all the way to high,(twist the lid till it points at the H). Hold the nozzle 2-4" from the surface and give good spray across the piece of glass. (Pic 3) Be aware not to spray the glass that overhangs the TE. This is important!
Now take your plastic putty knife and work the glue into the pores of the glass. Just slide it across the surface at an angle.(pic4) Try to only work side to side or the weave could snag and distort. If you look at the weave in the light you can see that the pores are filling in. They don't all have to be filled, but this is what you are looking for. There is a fine line between to much glue and not enough but the only way to learn this is from first hand experience.

Now repeat on the other half of the wing.

Cut and lay your next layers of glass.(pic5&6) Keep the overlap under 1/4" or no overlap at all. Repeat the above process of glue and putty knife. Then repeat this process up to the tip.(pic7) For extra strength under the bay, place a second layer perpendicular to the root, from the battery bay to the nose. This will strengthen under the bay greatly.

Now measure from the nose back 2" and from the leading edge of the tip back two inches then cut a strait line from mark to mark as shown in pic 8 & 9. Do this on both halves while the glue is still wet!. You can put the leading edge cap on after you glass the top. I however put mine on now since I am trying to avoid any overlap. Do this however you see fit.

Now set some weights across the trailing edge and let it sit for a minimum of 3 hours. All night if your not in a hurry.(pic10)

Now when its dry, it should not feel tacky at all, this is the greatness of 3M90. You'll have to trim around the motor mount and make relief cuts where necessary. Its a lot like trimming in covering film really.(pic11)

Now spray the trailing edge bevel with 3M90 and start by working the glass flat against the bevel. (pic12) Now continue to work the trailing edge cap over to the top.(pic13). Make a relief slit along the Gold n rod(pic14). Now just like you did on the bottom spray the whole cap down with glue and float it with the putty knife. Repeat on the other half. Then continue towards the nose just like you did on the bottom.

Again measure back 2inches from the nose and 2 from the leading edge of the tip and cut off the glass like you did on the bottom in pic 8 & 9.

Now place it back in the beds and put your weights on the trailing edge while the glue cures for a minimum of 3 hrs.

Once cured you will cap the leading edge like pic 16 & 17 shows.

When thats set you have to trim around the motor mount, cut off the excess from the tips, and inspect all the glass to make sure there are no bubble. Look especially close at anywhere that is wrapped such as the TE cap or LE cap, and around the motor mount. If a bubble is found hit it with more glue and press it down flat.

All done!

Atom1025 · May 12, 2007, 03:47 AM

So I could go through the whole process of covering but I see no need. However here are a few tips.

Do each wing panel separate, there is no need to fight the covering trying to get it all in one shot. Cover half the wing and then cut the battery bays open on that half, then repeat on the other half.

The Henery's over epp can take a lot of heat so don't be afraid to turn it up. However don't leave the iron in one place, always keep it moving.

Don't worry about the seam on the leading edge, It is recommended that you put a strip or two of electrical tape across the leading edge. This will protect it when you go chopping through weeds.

Installing the electronics is simple enough, I see no need to cover that part. But if you have any questions regarding this ask away.

Once all the bays are cut, I like to use some clear 3M storage tape across the hinge of the bay doors. This will keep the wear and tear down to a minimum from repeated opening/closing. I also like to tape around the edges of the bay doors to keep the covering from ripping or coming lose.

The pics below cover the hinging process.

When installing the vert stabs, you can use goop, hot glue or a combination of both. I mount the winglets so they are centered on the tip vertically, so there should be equal amounts on the top and bottom. The point of the stab will extend 1/2" ahead of the leading edge.

Daniel G · May 12, 2007, 03:10 PM

I'll be watching this one!
Nice build pics.

May 12, 2007, 02:50 AM	#1
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	The Ritewing Build Thread The purpose of this thread is to consolidate everything Ritewing related into one simple to navigate thread. The greatest thing about Ritewing builds is the options to do things "your way" There are so many different techniques and everybody adapts to building these in different manners. I would like for all of us to share info and help keep track of the ever evolving Rite build. I want you to share your build techniques, tips and tricks, your favorite power system, and anything else relative to Ritewings. I'd like to thank everyone who supports Chris and his Ritewings! All of us have made a difference! And Thankyou Chris for not only sharing with us the best flying wings, but also being a friend to us all! You Rock! CAUTION!!! When dealing with high power R/C models there are inherent dangers. Please be fully aware of all dangers before you attempt to build or fly any R/C model. If there is something you don't understand please ask! Some things to keep in mind, These planes can weigh up to four pounds and can travel over 100mph,there is enough energy in these to cause major damage and even death. Please be aware of your surroundings and especially any humans that may be nearby. Things happen quickly at these speeds and there is little time to react. These high power systems have great potential for fires! Most all the equipment we use are being pushed to the extremes of their capabilities. Lipos can make intense flames if ignited! Please be aware of your surroundings, flying in a dry grassy area may not be the best choice. It is advised that a fire extinguisher be on hand at all times. Its very wise to have your receiver powered by a separate powersource, be it a 5cell Nimh rxpack, or a small 2-3s lipo and a bec. In the case of esc, battery, or motor failure this will leave you in control of you model and allow you time to land the model. Keep yours and others body parts out of reach of the prop, there is enough power to dismember a finger! Being that this is a public forum any and all setups suggested are not guaranteed to be successful, please understand and research all equipment before you attempt to fly. You are responsible for your own choices when choosing a powersystem. What works for some may not work for others, be aware the elevation and other variables will affect what a given power system will do. This thread is created by avid Ritewing enthusiast, Ritewing as a company holds no responsibility to what may or may not be suggested in this thread. By understanding this you are responsible for yourself and others safety, proceed at your own risk. Great Ritewing threads! Ritewings in the news and History History lesson of CK and Ritewings http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306952 Need Testers http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425922 Ritewings published in "FlyRC" http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=680959 Ritewing published in "RC Sportsflier" http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Ritewing on All Things That Fly, podcast http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...43#post9287739 Cks Ritewing Gallery http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Various Ritewing build threads The Mini Demon and FS33 build thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Blasting 1950 watt 7 s demon http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing Demon 45 twin http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing CK's 40 Demon w/ 36mm brushless!!! http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/searc...&pp=25&page=10 TL Sicksty! http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Pauls 36 inch Demon build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584574 Pauls 30 inch unsanctioned Demon build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=525564 Pauls 36 LGT and IYF 44 Slope build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971566 chuckand's Mini Demon Build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=516389 chuckand's Ritewing 40" TL Build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=501588 chuckand's When less is more (36" Ritewing) http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=541024 chuckand's RiteWing 50" TL Build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=482279 IBWingnutz Mini Demon Build With LS motor http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing TaSaJaRa's Ritewing "TL 50" Build pics & video http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing Ab8ug's First Ritewing Build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing BroncoMechs FS48 Sloper http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Reefboys FS36 Lightning http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=851398 Ritewing Video Threads http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=891665 150mph on 4s!!! http://www.glamisweather.com/seff08/4shighspeed.wmv http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452121 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...mentid=1110816 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1161 Random Garage talk and Ritewing discussions Ritewing Rehabilitation Clinic http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Pictures of my Demon Family http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing Ritewing TL 50 ordered! Have a powerplant question http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=Ritewing The 36 "Light"ning Review and video http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1087 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1161 Making connectors, By TaSaJaRa http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=146 Official Unofficial Ritewing Meet. We had 7 Ritewings in the air at once. Some awesome videos on the last couple pages. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=ritewing+meet CK hits 178 at SEFF http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing 200 MPH Ritewing Club??? http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Ritewings at AEF http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Methos 36 Sportster experience http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Reefboy's TL50 experience http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing Mark Wood is officially a slacker! http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=ritewing IYF Quick Builds http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1046727 Attached Thumbnails Slackers Unite 97.8 KB · Views: 986 Slackers Unite II 74.6 KB · Views: 721 Last edited by Atom1025; Sep 26, 2009 at 07:16 PM.

May 12, 2007, 02:51 AM	#2
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Tips and Techniques Motor mount plate made easy http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1273 Eliminate droopy nose syndrome http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3492 No more velcro! http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1124 The 36 Lightning, Keep it light tips. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1360 Preform the lid http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3507 Adding hood latches: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1124 Naca Scoops http://parkflyerplastics.com/cart/in...roducts_id=278 Removable Servos http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=602 Removeable Winglets http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1081 FAQ Whats the difference between a lite build and heavy build? Last edited by Atom1025; Feb 06, 2010 at 06:02 AM. Reason: Update

May 12, 2007, 02:52 AM	#3
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Layouts and Power system Share center Please no theoretical setups, just what you have and fly personally. Ritewing Power System Share Center Notice Bare in mind these layouts are just to give you a rough idea of where to make your marks, your actual gear will determine the final layout. These are layouts I have used and 3 of the 4 balanced with little to no lead using the gear described. Attached Thumbnails The 36 lightning layout, for Microdan 2505-2800kv, CC35, standard servos, 3s 2100. 21.7 KB · Views: 697 36 Lightning closeup. 33.5 KB · Views: 531 IYF44 layout, 3sTP2100, cc35, Microdan speed, DS821 servos, Motor as far back as possible. I did not cut the motor in at all. CG= 7.75 29.3 KB · Views: 446 IYF44 Closeup 34.9 KB · Views: 421 Demon Lite, basic layout for 4s5000,28-47-1.5, 80-100amp esc, standard servos. AUW 45-50oz, CG7.25-7.5 26.3 KB · Views: 476 DemonLite Closeup. 24.8 KB · Views: 395 TL50 average layout, Mega 16-15-4, 45-60amp ESC, 4s 4000-5000(2s x2), standard size servos. AUW from 45-53oz, CG is 8" from the nose. 26.6 KB · Views: 396 Closeup of TL50, Note there is room to move the batts another 1/4" forward but Only experienced builder should try that. 1/2"-3/4" separates the bays, thicker is stronger but not always attainable. 27.3 KB · Views: 405 25" Mini Demon 33.9 KB · Views: 273 Last edited by Atom1025; Jul 07, 2009 at 01:16 AM.

May 12, 2007, 02:57 AM	#4
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	TL50 Build part 1 Supplies So here is how every kit comes out of the incredibly well packaged box.( Pics at the bottom) You get two beautiful wing cores tucked nicely in their beds, two high grade balsa elevon stocks, 3 high quality carbon spars,(spars may vary depending on the model) enough 2mm coroplast to do your bay lids, one motor mount kit, and two cleanly cut wingtips. What you'll need to complete the build: HARDWARE/ BUILDING SUPPLIES Surface control Hardware Buried rods: You'll need at least 2 feet of high quality Gold N Rod, there are many brands and styles to use but I recommend Dubro Lazer with 2-56 hardware. Grab two control horns of your favorite flavor while your at it. Do not use nylon clevis' Only use the metal variety. Exposed rods will require two 2/56 steel pushrods and two control horns of your favorite flavor. Henry's 183: You'll need 2 rolls. One can probably get a 40 covered but get two, last thing you want is to run short of glass in the middle of a build. Link courtesy of Paulvi, can also be found at most Home Depot's in the roofing section. Another option if you feel like experimenting? PaulVi has used this stuff before: http://www.whitecapdirect.com/store/...h=8&text=113YJ 3M90: One can will be fine, Only use 3M90! This is found at Local hardware store or craft store. Gorilla Glue: Used for spars, again at local hardware store. Elmer's PU will also suffice. White is for quick setups brown takes much longer. Its honestly a personal preference, Each has their pros and cons. Goop: Any brand any flavor, they all work the same for the most part, again local hardware store. Ultra light weight Spackle: Found at hardware store. Hot Glue: Optional but comes in handy. Monokote: One roll will cover the top and bottom of a 50. Use contrasting colors, pick one or two other colors to add flavor and contrast. I highly recommend the neon's for accents. (Use any other brand of covering at your own risk! Monokote fits this application best!) ELECTRONICS x2 servos: Don't get cheap here! These servos will be buried and the last thing you want to do is chop up your beautiful wing to fix a stripped servo! Digital servos are highly recommended here as precision is key to a great flier. These are the favorites rite now. You can get 4 for $80 quite often on Ebay or the For sale section... x1 Brushless motor: This is strictly up to you, do your research and figure out what you want. Power systems will be covered in another post. x1 Brushless esc: Again whatever suits your needs. Batteries: Batteries will need to match your motor choice. x1 Receiver: Again, this is the last place you want to get cheap! This is not a toy! Were talking a 2-3lb plane blasting around at 100mph+++. This thing gets small fast! Use something that's trusted. Rx Power Supply: You will need to either run a 5cell rx pack strait to the receiver or Use 2-4s lipo through a BEC When running 2.4 I highly suggest a 6v supply as the servos really pull some juice and you dont want to sag below the rx limits. TOOLS Soldering gun: You will need this to cut the bays, the dremel with router attachment is another option you can use if you don't wish to buy the gun. However the Gun has its benefits. Soldering iron: What we do here is use a screw to replace the soldering tip, this is used to cut spar slots. I'll get into more details later regarding the soldering tools. Razor Knife: You need to get the snap off blade style knife and extra blades, you'll see why later. Strait edge and square: (self explanatory) Plastic Putty knife: Used to apply the glass and filler. Basic stuff: Screwdrivers, sledge hammer, etc. Attached Thumbnails New production of Cores! 24.0 KB · Views: 1697 Everything out of the box! Oops I left the elevons out of the Pic. 25.9 KB · Views: 1519 Motor plate and mount! 27.9 KB · Views: 1374 Supplies! 35.7 KB · Views: 1833 Last edited by Atom1025; Oct 04, 2009 at 11:51 PM.

May 12, 2007, 03:06 AM	#5
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build Part 2 Wing Beds So to start off this build! First of all take a deep breath and quit dancing around like a school girl who's about to get her first kiss. Yes this is extremely exciting but patience is the most important part of this build! I don't know if I got lucky or CK is that good, but the wing beds are level and need no shimming! Also take note that the wings are almost symmetrical so you will use the bed for the top and bottom, it doesn't matter, there is no need to make two separate wing beds. OK, take note of whats written on the wing beds before you go yanking' them out of the beds and forget whats top and bottom. There should be something written on the top, usually what model, etc. Then on the root (the surface of the wing that will be glued to the mating half) there should be an arrow pointing up. Now go ahead and yank the wings out and mark a big fat "T" on the top towards the tip using a yellow sharpee. Don't worry as this will never be seen once finished! (Black sharpee can be seen through light coverings.) Repeat on the other half. Now you won't sit there and scratch your head wondering what side the top is once the cores are joined. Sure it sounds like a stupid step but it happens all the time! While you got the marker out , mark the top of the root as seen in pic four. Pic five shows why! Now you can play with your cores and run around the house making zoom noises all you want! Next take that sharp razor knife and carefully split the top half of the wing bed off. On a perfectly flat surface, align the two bottom bed half's side by side. You'll notice that one side may be lower then the other by 1-4mm. If its not then lucky you!(Kliques new cores should not need this step but check first and adjust if needed) So your going to have to prop the low half up till the two wing beds are perfectly aligned. This may be the most important step of the whole build! If you get this wrong your wing may never fly rite. Use something sturdy to adjust the height, I will usually use 2-4mm coroplast, ply-sheet, balsa-sheet, thick heavy duty poster board, etc. Whatever it takes to get the halves perfect. Once the height looks good you may or may not choose to join the bed halves, I do not as sometimes spreading the halves is necessary. You now have a perfect wing bed.Your wing will be in this bed for the majority of the build. The bed will help your wing keep its shape and will help you avoid any twist in the wing. I always leave my wing in the bed with weights on the trailing edge when I am not working on it. Attached Thumbnails Slice the beds off using sharp snap blade 17.3 KB · Views: 1398 Bed ready for use. 29.6 KB · Views: 1690 Nice and level! 28.5 KB · Views: 1297 Mark the cores as shown, the next pic shows why. 22.1 KB · Views: 1539 You now have an easily visible center line to take measurements from. 22.9 KB · Views: 1328 This is how the wing should rest when your not working on it. 32.9 KB · Views: 1935 Last edited by Atom1025; May 12, 2009 at 09:10 PM.

May 12, 2007, 03:22 AM	#6
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build part 3 Making your marks! My process is totally optional but I thought I'd share. The basics still apply if you choose to make your marks after the cores are joined. This is something I learned building Superflys. I forget who turned me onto it but it was a great help. This step can be done after the wings are joined but I find this helps me keep things square! In order to use this to your benefit you'll have to know exactly what gear you are putting in your plane. Most folks wait to draw their battery bays etc. on till after the wings are joined. This is totally fine for your average Joe but I am a perfectionist bordering on OCD. I like to mark out my bays before the wing halves are even joined. Why you may ask? I can run my square against the root to ensure a perfectly square line. Also I am not guessing where the spar is located later in the build. Your measurements will vary depending on model and choice of gear. General rule of thumb is get everything as far forward as possible. I have a few templates located in the first post to get you a general idea of gear placement. Servos should be placed as far forward as safely possible. Keep in mind you'll need to sink the about 2mm deeper then the surface of the wing which will allow you to cap the servo with foam. Majority of builds I do now have exposed servo rods. Its easier, lighter and more adjustable. Now place your motor mount on the wing so its leading edge is over the spar. Use your square to get it square and trace it out. Then from the trailing edge of the motor mount measure out 3.125" and make a mark, now measure from the root to the absolute trailing edge 4-5" depending on your taste and make a mark, connect the dots and you now have the prop slot measurements All right, mate the other half of the wing and align the cores. Transfer all marks over to that half and repeat the process. You now have everything marked out on your wing! Adding hood latches: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1124 Attached Thumbnails Trusty Flexy strait edge! 17.9 KB · Views: 1566 Square off the root. 19.2 KB · Views: 1318 Electronics bay and Batt Bay drawn up on one half. 23.9 KB · Views: 1395 Here I have the coro shelf marked out in green. 27.2 KB · Views: 1417 Here the servo is measured 4" from the root and 5.5 from the tip of the nose! 23.6 KB · Views: 1222 Make a mark in the center of the control arm. 19.8 KB · Views: 1372 Take the measurment and make a mark at the TE and draw a line. This line is your Gold N rod mark. 24.8 KB · Views: 1196 The rod will exit at 3" and be cut at 2" from the TE. 24.8 KB · Views: 1288 This is how the mount looks stock. 27.7 KB · Views: 1181 Snap all the extras off unless you are using an extra long motor. For most builds the extras will be removed. Sand off the rough spots. 25.1 KB · Views: 1247 Here is the motor mount traced out and the prop slot cut out drawn on. Note that the motor mount plate will be over the CF spar. 22.3 KB · Views: 1435 Note the extended electronics bay. Also note the velcro tabs to secure the lid 26.2 KB · Views: 1441 Here is an alternative way to make the tabs. Just leave a rectangle of foam in each corner of the Batt bay. 29.7 KB · Views: 1472 Last edited by Atom1025; Oct 04, 2009 at 11:54 PM.

May 12, 2007, 03:28 AM	#7
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build part 4 Joining the halves Next Step: Before you join the cores, take some wax paper, monokote backing, or any other nonstick material and place it on the wing beds you constructed in the previous post. The 40 and 50 come with two spar options, one forward one aft. If you want a crazy fast setup that needs a lot of batteries, use the aft option. If you wish to keep it lite and use smaller batteries use the forward option. Take your spar and do a dry fit of the cores, making sure alignment is perfect, you may need to cut down the spar to fit. Once you are satisfied with the alignment, take it all apart. Grab the Gorilla glue and a spray bottle filled with water. Stick the nozzle of the glue in the correct spar hole and give her a good hearty squeeze for a couple seconds. Then stick the nozzle of the spray bottle up to the hole and give a couple squeezes. Stick the CF rod into the hole and work it in and out like a butter churner. Once satisfied repeat the glue and water process on the other half. But before you put the rod in the other half and start churning take your 3M90 spray adhesive and give a full coverage coat on the root of both halves. Now you can start churning the rod into the other half. Smoosh the two halves together. It may take 3 mins or it may take 20 but eventually that 3M90 will grab! Another option is to hot Glue the halves together but you have to work quick and you get no second chances. The 3M90 gives you plenty of time to assure proper alignment. Check the top and bottom repeatedly to make sure alignment is proper. When satisfied place the wing in the bed and set some weights across the trailing edge only. Nothing major, just some books or weight lifting rings, whatever you've got. Let the wing sit for an hour or two, go fly, have a spot of tea, etc. When you come back you'll probably notice that the Gorilla glue has foamed through the wing cores to the surface. No worries! Remove the long razor blade from the knife and place it flat on the wing, slide the blade back and forth against the excess glue and cut it off. Sand with some light grit paper to assure there are no high spots. Voila! This step is now complete! If you have not made your marks for the bays you can do so now. Attached Thumbnails Squeeze the Gorilla Glue into the spar hole. 29.0 KB · Views: 1360 Once the cores are glued together, place some weights on the TE. This helps the wing keep its shape while the glue cures. 35.8 KB · Views: 1324 Some glue will bleed through the foam. 15.1 KB · Views: 1350 Any excess glue can be shaved off and then sanded. 26.2 KB · Views: 1266 Last edited by Atom1025; Aug 21, 2009 at 01:26 AM.

May 12, 2007, 03:38 AM	#8
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build part 5 Leading edge spars Now the leading edge spars are not a requirement. My CK built TL40 had a single spar and flew just wonderfully. The glass is enough to avoid flexing at over 100mph. If you are looking at breaking the sound barrier, the spars are necessary. Pick up some cheapo 25-40watt soldering iron or use that old beater you got sitting in the tool drawer. You can use many different screws. However I use a 10-32 socket cap screw that I modified on my grinder. All I can say here is there is no wrong way to go about this. Use whatever hardware you got around the house and some creativity. Do some practice runs on a scrap and check how the spar fits. Adjust it til' you are happy. Grab a ruler/square and mark 3-5" back from the nose. Go to the tip of the wings and measure 2-3" from the trailing edge. Connect the dots and you've got the spar placement marked. I really don't think spar placement is detrimental. As long as its there and it does its job I'm happy. So don't stress off the placement for to long just slap down some marks. I personally try to get the spars under the servos, but that's just me. Now depending on the placement you may cross the internal spar. Nothing to worry about if you do. Just take a dremel and cut through that spot. You will not lose any strength in this area. The spar slots should not be too tight or they could spread and distort the wing and create a hump in the bottom. This can give the plane some strange tendencies while flying. Always check for spar fit, length and alignment prior to assembly. Now take a strait edge and run it along the mark. Starting from the tip to the root. Drag the superheated screw through the core at a steady, smooth, stable pace. When you get to the center pull the iron up and out. Repeat this process on the other side. Check the fit of the CF rod and make sure its level or slightly below the wing plane. If satisfied grab the Gorilla glue and squeeze a 1/16-1/8" bead down the spar slot, remember a little goes a long way. Spray with water and then use whatever to mix the glue and water up. Snap the spars in place. I place the wing top down into the wing bed. I then take some non stick film leftover from monokote and lay it over the spars. I use 1"x1/8" stock aluminum I have lying around and lay it over the spars. with some weights on top. Keeping it in the bed retains the wings shape while the spars are drying. The Aluminum stock and weight basically keeps the excess glue foam from getting out of hand. When the glue is dry I only have to sand the glue foam a little bit. And that's how ya' install the leading edge spars. It's recommended that you put a few layers of Spackle over the spars otherwise you can see it through the covering. Attached Thumbnails This is the great spar cutting tool. A simple 10-32 socket cap screw in a 30 watt iron. The screw was grinded to the proper size. 27.5 KB · Views: 1720 Make a mark between 3-5" from the nose. 24.3 KB · Views: 1287 Make a mark about 2-3" from the LE at the tip. and make a line from point to point. 22.0 KB · Views: 1211 Start at the tip and work towards the center. 32.3 KB · Views: 1304 Slow and steady! 27.5 KB · Views: 1282 Keep on truckin' 31.0 KB · Views: 1336 End result! 22.8 KB · Views: 1347 Spars dry fit. 30.3 KB · Views: 1290 Below or level with the surface. 20.5 KB · Views: 1368 Add a small amount of Gorilla Glue and some water. Mix it up then snap in the spars. 20.0 KB · Views: 1233 I place a flat bar and weights on the spar to keep the glue from getting out of hand but this is not required. You do want to weigh down the TE while the glue cures. 29.9 KB · Views: 1264 End result. Because of the plates there is minimal glue foam to deal with. 22.7 KB · Views: 1365 Last edited by Atom1025; May 12, 2007 at 10:44 PM.

May 12, 2007, 03:41 AM	#9
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build part 6 Cutting the Bays Here is my take on this process. I prefer to cut the Coroplast lid shelf before I do anything else. The main reason is because its much more difficult to cut the shelf once the bays are cut. It can be done, but I have much less control over the router. Lid Shelf I have marked the places to be routed with a green marker just so its easier to see in the pics what I am cutting. (Pic one) I set the Dremel router to 2mm depth. I do a few test runs on a scrap to verify the depth is correct. Then I cut in between the lines! Nothing to it! The only spot caution should be taken is at the leading edge an inch to each side of the root at the peak. Do not press down in this area! For some reason the cutter seems to cut deeper in this spot. So just float the cutter over this area! All done with the shelf, only took a few minutes.(pic three) Battery/electronics Bays Now for the bays. You can use the router bit for this or use CK's method. I use CK's method because it cauterizes the foam as it cuts which seems to add some strength. Pic four shows the custom tool used to cut the bays. Its simply a piece of 12g copper wire formed into the desired shape. Nothing fancy! Be sure to get plenty of practice with this tool before attacking the wing. Now practice with the soldering gun on some scrap. You just melt out between the lines. For a first timer you should only take a little bit at a time. Then check the thickness of the floor and and take a little more. The depth of the cut really depends on the batts you plan to use.( Keep the Batts under 25mm thickness.) Now if you so happen to cut to deep, don't worry the fix is simple. Some even do this right off the bat if they know they will need the extra room for batteries and electronics. Basically you cut a shelf on the bottom of the wing just like you did for the coroplast lids. Slap in a piece of coro with some goop or hot glue and your good to go. TaSaJaRa turned me onto a new idea and I gave it a shot. Seems to be effective. You basically spread a thin layer of goop on the batt bay floor and then press a piece of Henery's glass into it then smear some more on top. Sure it adds a bit of weight but the weight is ahead of the CG and you'll actually benifit from this. The added strength will also be a benifit. Pic 7 I forgot to draw out the velcro tabs earlier in the build so in pics 8-9 you can see the added tabs. I basically cut the velcro tabs 4mm deep. There is also an alternative way to do the tabs but I wanted to try something new. Installing the lids This part is easy. Measure out the lid for the battery bay, making sure that the flutes are running left to right. Test fit the lid, once satisfied go about 1/2 to 2/3rds back and carefully cut one half of the flute, look at pic 11 to get a visual. Make sure the door opens wide enough for your batts to fit in. This will be the hinge on your battery bay. I also mark the top of the lid so I don't glue it in backwards. I like to take the leading edge, bend and hold it for a bit, basically forming it to the shape of the airfoil.(pic 12) You can now use a hot glue gun to secure the lids. Pic 13 The electronics bay has the same principle but instead of having one large bay door, you should cut smaller access panels as shown in pic 16. The picture should be pretty self explanatory. This method was noted to add a bit more strength to the center of the wing compared to one big bay door. Glue the lid on, and your finished with the bays! Optional The antenna can be permanently secured in the wing by making a slit and tucking it in or you can use a plastic tube available at the hobby shop, same stuff thats in the gold N rod. Before glueing the lid on, make a groove with your dremel from bay to tip(pic 17-19) Do not glue this tube in until the Golden Rods are secured, but before the lid is attached. Later when your ready to install the gear use some music wire, etc. to fish the antenna through the tube! Replacing a reciever is now simple! Attached Thumbnails The green is where the router will cut 2mm deep. This ths the shelf the bay lid will sit on. 27.2 KB · Views: 1210 Cutting away 26.6 KB · Views: 1399 different angle 22.1 KB · Views: 1244 This is basically a customized hot wire. I suggest first timers use a smaller shape to cut. Its easier to manage when its smaller. The size of a servo is good. 23.4 KB · Views: 1290 The foam is melting!!!! 22.2 KB · Views: 1328 Finishe cutting. So I thought! 26.5 KB · Views: 1364 TaSaJaRa recommended this step. 29.2 KB · Views: 1394 Velcro tabs added. I cut where the velcro goes 4mm deep. 29.2 KB · Views: 1260 Close up of tab. 30.5 KB · Views: 1202 Bay cut to shape. 23.2 KB · Views: 1203 Hinge. Only cut though half the flute! 18.3 KB · Views: 1245 I hold a bend in the lid to make it form to the shape of the wing Just hold in this position for a bit and the bend will stay. 34.3 KB · Views: 1333 Lid installed! 24.3 KB · Views: 1203 I extended the electronics bay. I could of fit everything as it was but I decided to make more room and try a new door method. 23.3 KB · Views: 1183 Poke a hole through the electronics bay into the batt bay. Big enough to poke your connectors through. 28.6 KB · Views: 1162 Her is the finished bays. Note the small doors rather then one large one. This will keep more strength in the center of the wing. 24.4 KB · Views: 1283 Make a mark from the electronics bay to the tip avoiding the spar. 33.8 KB · Views: 1212 Dremel out a groove 1/8" wide 1/8 deep all the way down. 20.8 KB · Views: 1184 This groove will house the antenna tube. Do not glue this in till the Golden rods are finished 34.7 KB · Views: 1182 Last edited by Atom1025; Jun 10, 2007 at 02:16 AM.

May 12, 2007, 03:41 AM	#10
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build Part 7 Servos and Gold n Rod For this step I use the dremel. I take a needle and poke it through the top until I hit the spar. I then mark the depth of the needle and use that to gauge the depth setting on the cutter. Then I cut between the lines. You want the cut as deep as possible without hitting the spar. Note the extra notch I made for the servo wires and mount tabs. (pic one) OK, now I will cut the Gold n Rod slot. I use the same tool that I use for the spars as they are roughly the same dimensions. Now putting this next step into words is tough so just look at pics three and four. Basically I prop up the trailing edge of the strait edge so that the cut will taper off towards the end. I want the rod to exit at 3" forward of the trailing edge. Now cut off roughly one foot of the Gold n Rod. Hook up the linkage to the servo. The linkage is easy but may confuse the first timers so I will do a quick review. There should be a short threaded rod, a clevis, and a band that holds the clevis shut. To make things easier you should have some 2-56 nuts as well but they are not required. Put the assembly together as shown in pic six. Then grasp the clevis and turn the threads into the inner rod. You may need to use needle nose pliers as the rod is hard to grasp. Now you will need to snip the horn off just above the second hole. Be sure to leave as much meat as possible as strength around this hole is detrimental. Clip the clevis to the servo horn. The hole on the horn may need to be enlarged slightly. You don't want any play in the linkage, but you don't want any binding neither. Its a fine line. The horn and linkage should be at least 1-2mm blow the surface of the wing. Slide the red sheath over the rod. Dry fit the servo and Golden rod. At this point make sure your servo is centered and moving freely. I will move the stick from corner to corn to make sure there is no binding. Now with the rod temporarily in place measure up 2-2.5" inches from the trailing edge and make a mark on the red sheath. Slide the red sheath off and snip it at your mark. The red sheath is now the correct Length and will not be cut anymore. Now remove the servo and shoot some hot glue or goop on the bottom of the servo. Press it into place and hold firmly for a minute till the hot glue dries. Do not get any glue on the moving parts! Now shoot a small bead of hot glue down the Gold n Rod slot and press it into its place. Also use a scrap of red sheath and prop up the back of the rod to add height. (pic 11) To finish it off. cut a scrap of foam and glue it over the servo. Take your blade out of the snap off knife and slide it back and forth over the wing to remove the excess foam.(pic 13) Your servos are now installed! Attached Thumbnails I use the router to cut the servo hole, get it as deep as you can without getting to thin on the bottom. 21.1 KB · Views: 1143 Make sure the fit is good! 19.0 KB · Views: 1229 Now I take my strait edge and prop up the back end with a scrap of Gold N rod on the 2" mark. Then cut just like ya did the spars. 26.9 KB · Views: 1185 Since the back end is shimmed, the cutter will exit the core at the 3" mark. 24.2 KB · Views: 1134 Finished with the soldering tool. 22.8 KB · Views: 1175 This is how the linkage is assembled. 17.2 KB · Views: 1279 Make sure you center your servo. Do a dry fit and hook it to the Rx. Make sure the horn has plenty of room and no binding occurs. 21.0 KB · Views: 1338 Heat up a screwdriver. 23.8 KB · Views: 1229 Poke it through the foam into the electronics bay. 21.2 KB · Views: 1278 Fish the servo lead through the foam with a pair of needle nose or hemostats. At this point Glue the Servo in place with hot glue. 26.9 KB · Views: 1275 Now prop up the back of the gold n rod with a scrap. and glue in place using hot glue. 30.7 KB · Views: 1251 Cut and Glue a scrap of foam to the top of the servo. 25.5 KB · Views: 1263 With a sharp blade cut off the excess foam. Sand to level if needed. 20.9 KB · Views: 1168 All finished with the servos. 24.6 KB · Views: 1243 Last edited by Atom1025; May 13, 2007 at 02:34 AM.

May 12, 2007, 03:42 AM	#11
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build part 8 Motor Mount Plate Chris shows one way to do this in his video that works just fine, I have done this on most of my Ritewings. However great care must be taken to assure the plate is not glued in crooked. So Chris told me to try a new way on my 36 Demon and I really like this way much better. This is a tough one to type out so I'll let the pictures do the talking. If there is anything unclear or something you don't understand let me know in this thread and I will try and clear it up. Adam Attached Thumbnails Put a brand new blade in your knife! 30.2 KB · Views: 1142 I make a cut along the trailing edge of the electronics bay which is located rite above the internal spar. I only cut where the motor plate is drawn on the wing. I cut all the way down till the blade hits the spar. 25.8 KB · Views: 1123 I then make a cut on each side of the motor mount plate half way throgh. So basically the tip of the blade is on the CF spar and the cut stops where its shown in the pics. 23.4 KB · Views: 1170 Then I cut from the center of the TE forward making sure the blade is on top of the CF spar. You can cut a little at a time, or if your comfortable just take the block of foam out in one swipe. Remove the block of foam and make sure the CF spar is showing 21.0 KB · Views: 1137 another angle. 26.9 KB · Views: 1165 Now the motor plate will be hot glued flat inside this cutout." Paul has posted a valid concern, Hot Glue may break down from vibrations over time and release, Goop is a sure bet in this step, just goop the plate, the foam block and lightly clamp. 28.1 KB · Views: 1123 From a scrap of foam, cut a block and fit it over the mount plate like shown and hot glue it to the mount plate and surounding foam. Take the blade like you did on the servos and shave the foam level with the top of the wing. Sanding may be required to 26.0 KB · Views: 1089 Use the soldering gun to remove the foam where the motor goes. 26.3 KB · Views: 1171 This is how it should look. 23.5 KB · Views: 1121 Take the soldering gun and bevel the foam around the mount. Also clear away foam from the mounting holes as shown in the pic 25.0 KB · Views: 1162 Heres the bottom beveled. It does'nt have to be beveled as large as mine is but I like the way it looks and I'd think it would allow more airflow around the motor to cool it. 28.8 KB · Views: 1127 Last edited by Atom1025; May 15, 2007 at 09:42 AM.

May 12, 2007, 03:43 AM	#12
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build part 9 Prepping for Glass So now is the time when you want to go through and fix any holes blemishes, or low spots. If you haven't done so yet, go ahead and trim the excess spars hanging off the tips with a dremel and cut off wheel or hack saw. Now this step is optional, your average plane you would bevel the balsa elevon. Which is fine. If you prefer this method then go for it. However I prefer to cut the bevel on the trailing edge of the foam. Do what ever you are comfortable with. Take the lightweight Spackle and a putty knife. Use this to float over the spar slots, holes, or anything else you think needs it. Keep in mind that as the wing sits now will act as a mirror once the glass is installed. Everything will reflect through to the surface. So its really up to you how clean you want the finish. I like to lay my float on thick and then sand it smooth and level, Otherwise it could sink/shrink a little on you and you'll have to float it again. This stuff is almost weightless so don't hold back! The key areas to float on the bottom are the spar slots. Float them sand them and then move to the top. The top shouldn't have much to float other then the antenna tube, if you used one. Take a good look over the surface and float any imperfections. I like to go a little farther then required and chamfer each side of the gold n rod. I only do this for looks it has no noticeable affect on the plane. I just take some Spackle, and use a round object and drag across it to get that half pipe shape. Sand a little when finished. Take a black marker and outline the bay doors and where the hinge is. This will help you find where to cut once the glass is on. If you forget this step its next to impossible to find the bay doors again. Spray some 3M90 on first and then tape the bay doors closed. This will keep you from fighting the doors popping open while glassing. Take a piece of scrap coro and block the servo horn and linkage. Spray around the servo with 3M90, then use some tape to cover the exposed linkage. Strapping tape is good for this application, but use what you have. I put two layers of tape down to add some firmness to the area. You'll also have to take the wing bed and cut some slots in it where the Gold n Rod will sit when the core is top side down. Take a look at pic 11 to get the idea. Basically take your time to inspect the wing and fix whatever you see now, once the glass is on there is no going back! Attached Thumbnails Outline your bays!!!! Do not forget this step!! When the glass is on you can see where to cut in order to open the bays! 30.0 KB · Views: 1098 Cut the excess spar that overhangs the tip with dremel or saw. Sand it level if needed. 19.9 KB · Views: 1119 Here is how I cut my bevel for the elevons. I trun the wing top down, and then place a strait edge undeneath, parrallel with the TE. Then a strait edge on top 3/8" back from the TE. 31.2 KB · Views: 1186 With a brand new exact or razor cut along both strait edges as shown in the pic. 22.2 KB · Views: 1151 Another angle. Cut this bevel all the way down. 24.7 KB · Views: 1150 When finished you trailing edge should look like this. 22.4 KB · Views: 1175 Here is the bottom after applying spackel, after it dries it will be sanded smooth. Only apply the spackle where needed, there is no reason to cover the whole wing. 29.3 KB · Views: 1179 I like to add a chamfer to the gold N rod, I think it looks cooler, but thats my opinion. It looks fine without it. so Whatever floats your boat. 20.3 KB · Views: 1226 another angle! 25.1 KB · Views: 1189 Use a piece of coro to mask the linkage from the glue. Spray glue the surounding area of the linkage. 19.0 KB · Views: 1109 Put a layer of tape or two over the linkage. This keeps any glue out and adds some firmness to the area. 28.5 KB · Views: 1167 You'll have to cut, melt, burn, etc. a slot for the gold n rods to sit when the wing is top down in the bed. 26.1 KB · Views: 1164 Last edited by Atom1025; May 16, 2007 at 04:49 PM.

May 12, 2007, 03:44 AM	#13
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build part 10 Glassing the Model For this part of the build there is no wrong way to do this! Everyone will have there own take on it. Do as you see fit! I highly recommend watching the video for this process, as seeing it in action replaces 1,000 words. I am going for a lite build so I am not overlapping anywhere, only one layer across the whole thing. For your average build you'll want to double up the glass in key areas. Only double up ahead of the CG! You only need a single layer behind the CG, anymore then that will make it more difficult to achieve the CG. I'll usually put two layers on the bottom starting at the battery bay up to the nose! Also note that in the video Chris overlaps every layer of glass, that is fine to do but we have discovered overlap should be kept under a 1/4"- none at all. Please work in a well ventilated area! This glue is strong!!! Its not a good feeling! (pic one) So I'll start at the bottom. Flip the model top down in the bed. Be sure the surface is clean and free of debris. I wipe it down with a damp cloth and let it dry. Cut two pieces of glass, one for each half of the trailing edge.(pic two) Place it so three inches, approximately half of a 6" piece is hanging over the trailing edge. Now only work with one piece/one half at a time, you don't want to get ahead of yourself. Make sure your 3M90 is open all the way to high,(twist the lid till it points at the H). Hold the nozzle 2-4" from the surface and give good spray across the piece of glass. (Pic 3) Be aware not to spray the glass that overhangs the TE. This is important! Now take your plastic putty knife and work the glue into the pores of the glass. Just slide it across the surface at an angle.(pic4) Try to only work side to side or the weave could snag and distort. If you look at the weave in the light you can see that the pores are filling in. They don't all have to be filled, but this is what you are looking for. There is a fine line between to much glue and not enough but the only way to learn this is from first hand experience. Now repeat on the other half of the wing. Cut and lay your next layers of glass.(pic5&6) Keep the overlap under 1/4" or no overlap at all. Repeat the above process of glue and putty knife. Then repeat this process up to the tip.(pic7) For extra strength under the bay, place a second layer perpendicular to the root, from the battery bay to the nose. This will strengthen under the bay greatly. Now measure from the nose back 2" and from the leading edge of the tip back two inches then cut a strait line from mark to mark as shown in pic 8 & 9. Do this on both halves while the glue is still wet!. You can put the leading edge cap on after you glass the top. I however put mine on now since I am trying to avoid any overlap. Do this however you see fit. Now set some weights across the trailing edge and let it sit for a minimum of 3 hours. All night if your not in a hurry.(pic10) Now when its dry, it should not feel tacky at all, this is the greatness of 3M90. You'll have to trim around the motor mount and make relief cuts where necessary. Its a lot like trimming in covering film really.(pic11) Now spray the trailing edge bevel with 3M90 and start by working the glass flat against the bevel. (pic12) Now continue to work the trailing edge cap over to the top.(pic13). Make a relief slit along the Gold n rod(pic14). Now just like you did on the bottom spray the whole cap down with glue and float it with the putty knife. Repeat on the other half. Then continue towards the nose just like you did on the bottom. Again measure back 2inches from the nose and 2 from the leading edge of the tip and cut off the glass like you did on the bottom in pic 8 & 9. Now place it back in the beds and put your weights on the trailing edge while the glue cures for a minimum of 3 hrs. Once cured you will cap the leading edge like pic 16 & 17 shows. When thats set you have to trim around the motor mount, cut off the excess from the tips, and inspect all the glass to make sure there are no bubble. Look especially close at anywhere that is wrapped such as the TE cap or LE cap, and around the motor mount. If a bubble is found hit it with more glue and press it down flat. All done! Attached Thumbnails Please use 3M90 in well ventilated area!!!! 50.3 KB · Views: 1061 Start with one half and overlap the TE 3". 27.5 KB · Views: 1401 Open nozzle to high and spray the glass down only where it covers the foam. Avoid spraying the overhung piece. Hold nozzle 2-4" from the surface. 27.1 KB · Views: 1300 Work the glue smooth into the glass with putty knife. Then repeat this step on the other half. 26.9 KB · Views: 1405 Layup the next row, working towards the nose. Keep overlap to a minimum, 1/4"- none is fine. 43.0 KB · Views: 1369 All the way to the nose is covered in glass. 40.6 KB · Views: 1297 Trim the glass 2" back from the leading edge while the glue is still fresh. 39.3 KB · Views: 1287 Trim both sides 2" back from the LE 32.1 KB · Views: 1217 Make sure the wing is in its bed correctly, use some release film/wax paper and place some weights across the trailing edge. I use some alum. flat bar to distribute the weight. Leave this for a minimum of three hours. 45.8 KB · Views: 1309 After a few hours trim the glass around the motor mount, be sure to wrap around the mount to give the mount more strength. Also trim/relief around the corners and glue it flat as you go. 29.9 KB · Views: 1208 Now spray the bevel of the TE and start to work the glass around to the top. 57.5 KB · Views: 1281 Work the TE cap over to the top. 38.7 KB · Views: 1224 Make a relief slit along the gold n rod. Now you can spray this piece down with glue and work it with the putty knife. Repeat on the other half. 29.2 KB · Views: 1213 Work your way up to the nose just like you did on the bottom. Again cut 2" back from the leading edge while the glue is fresh. Set it in the bed with weifgts for a few hours 41.7 KB · Views: 1237 When the glue is cured this is how you will cap the leading edge. Start from one side glue it in place and then work it around to the other side 34.5 KB · Views: 1309 LE cap. 29.6 KB · Views: 1182 Be sure to cut and wrap the extra glass around the motor mount. 33.4 KB · Views: 1227 All done on top! 28.7 KB · Views: 1222 Bottom all finished! 37.1 KB · Views: 1320 I put an extra layer over the batt bay on top. 42.8 KB · Views: 1345 Nice smooth contoured nose! 27.4 KB · Views: 1590 Last edited by Atom1025; May 17, 2007 at 12:29 AM.

May 12, 2007, 03:47 AM	#14
Atom1025 Fly me to the moon... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,910	Build part 11 Finishing touches So I could go through the whole process of covering but I see no need. However here are a few tips. Do each wing panel separate, there is no need to fight the covering trying to get it all in one shot. Cover half the wing and then cut the battery bays open on that half, then repeat on the other half. The Henery's over epp can take a lot of heat so don't be afraid to turn it up. However don't leave the iron in one place, always keep it moving. Don't worry about the seam on the leading edge, It is recommended that you put a strip or two of electrical tape across the leading edge. This will protect it when you go chopping through weeds. Installing the electronics is simple enough, I see no need to cover that part. But if you have any questions regarding this ask away. Once all the bays are cut, I like to use some clear 3M storage tape across the hinge of the bay doors. This will keep the wear and tear down to a minimum from repeated opening/closing. I also like to tape around the edges of the bay doors to keep the covering from ripping or coming lose. The pics below cover the hinging process. When installing the vert stabs, you can use goop, hot glue or a combination of both. I mount the winglets so they are centered on the tip vertically, so there should be equal amounts on the top and bottom. The point of the stab will extend 1/2" ahead of the leading edge. Attached Thumbnails Start by flipping the elevon top down on the top of the wing. Only use #m storage tape or similiar. Do not use blenderm or any other stretchy tape. 20.0 KB · Views: 1016 Top view. The Control linkage may seem to be in the way but is easy to work around. 22.3 KB · Views: 1159 Place tape as shown so that it wraps all the way to the bottom of the wing. This is basically just to hold it in place for the next step. 23.4 KB · Views: 1040 Now fold the elevon down and tape as shown. Be sure there is little to no gap between the wing and elevon. 22.4 KB · Views: 1044 I tape the whole elevon, Be sure to press firmly against the traing edge. The tape wraps around to the bottom. 23.8 KB · Views: 1090 Then tape across the whole elevon. There should be no unwanted movement on the elevon. This gives you a bullit proof hinge. 23.9 KB · Views: 1079 Last edited by Atom1025; Jun 09, 2007 at 03:45 PM.

May 12, 2007, 03:10 PM	#15
Daniel G It's been a while. Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Irvine, CA Posts: 2,692	I'll be watching this one! Nice build pics.

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