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Old Aug 17, 2010, 12:55 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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I like to use craft sticks (basswood) for many things. One was the motor sticks. 3 pieces laminated with 5 minute epoxy, stout, strong, and not too heavy.

The other is for wing joining, and strength, I cut 4 joiners per wing. Leading and trailing edge, and 2 places about 30% from leading and trailing edges. Worked out the math, and 10 degrees is the perfect to get the wingtips at the 1 1/2" setting for dihedral.

I cut 3 joiners per craft stick, the ones Walmart sells in the craft department.

The pictures show the joiners placed on one panel, then I glue the other panel centerjoint using the joiner to set the dihedral.

After it dries, I cut slots in the panels and set the interior joiners using epoxy. There will be no failure of the center joint this way, and the front and rear joiners protect the wing from the rubber bands.

Fred
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 12:59 AM
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Omaha Nebraska
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I then set and glue the horizontal stabs to the fuselage, making sure they are good and straight. I use a point on the fuse to make sure they are centered, and that the edge of the elevator is equal distance on both sides.

I cut the top decking too, but do not install yet.

Fred
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 01:04 AM
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Omaha Nebraska
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Landing gear time.

I set the mains into the slot, with Polyurithane glue (Gorilla Glue), using a 1/16" balsa spreader as a wedge to add additional strength, and to keep the gear set while the glue dries.

Tail skid? I used a tail wheel, with coil spring, thread and glue to a popcycle stick on mine.

I made 'mouse pad' wheels, using craft faom sheets this time. 3/32" brass tubes are glued into them, balsa hub caps keep everything square, and strong. These whees come out between 2 to 3 grams a pair. Light and good shock absorbsion.

Fred
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 01:09 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
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I next installed my pushrod 'snakes'. I make these out of Coffee Stirring straws, also known as Cocktail straws. The white joiner is a slightly larger straw, and this also makes a good reinforcement for the exit end. Another way to reinforce the end, is a 'Q' tip barrel slips right into the red straw.

These are very light, cheap, and hold up very well over time.

The third snake is an antenna tube. Yes antenna, remember those old 72 mhz radios. Might as well use those old, dusty radios and receivers on this project!

Fred
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 01:15 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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I thought I'd share this little servo mount I made. Some balsa, a basswood cap (for screws), and spread the right distance to slide right down into the fuselage.

A little epoxy on the foam, slide it into place, and we are set to hook up the servos, pushrods, and receiver.

I used old, left over GWS servo horns on this build. You did keep those old parts trees didn't you? If not I would have used old credit cards, zip ties, or good old plywood horns. All seem to work well in foam.

Fred
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 01:25 AM
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Off to the paint shop. Off to the insignia and detail shop.

Oh by the way, I decided the two opposing 'enemy' would be the Russians, and the Germans. No hate mail, both have cool aircraft, colors, insignia. This won't be WWI, or WWII Recon aircraft. I'm going for more modern insignia, it's easier this way. We will imagine that maybe tomorrow, or next week, a breakdown of relationships happened............

I made tissue decals for this build. Cheap, easy enough, and light weight.

I've been doing this for a while, and they work great on foam models. Want to see more, check out this link to a thread I did on the process.

Inexpensive scale decals for any model type:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1217546

No printer or fancy process on the decals for this build. But several ideas are shown in that link.

Fred
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 01:40 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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The result.

Russian meets German.

The German airplane uses the 'Golden Age' Rudder and window arrangement. Made up the camo scheme and used the blue foam as part of the color.

The Russian uses the 'Modern Aviation' Rudder and windows. However I made the windows slightly different on my Rusian plane because I thought they looked better. Used a Southern Russia, desert camo scheme.

Paint is standard craft paint (latex house paint I assume, put into little bottles, turning $18.00 into 2 hundred....). Used airbrush for German plane, took too long, so brushed on the Russian colors, and windows.

Top coated the painted areas with WBPU, satin, using an airbrush to spray it on.

Maiden anyone?

Fred
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 01:53 AM
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Maiden of the Blue Baby Combat Planes!

Well I got to maiden both planes tonight! My buddy came over right afterr photos, and con-artist he is, twisted my arm to try them out (ok, he didn't twist my arm).

Wind was blowing, 7-10 mph, worse up about 25 feet. Took off with the Russian plane, and trimmed it out. This is the 'E' Drive, EDF motor. Pico Stick, Slow Stick memories anyone? Flew great. Yes fly on the wing, but can turn sharp, loop, ets. Climb is fairly scale (what is scale for a BB). Can kite into the wind with that undercambered wing, fun! Lands great, etc. I just need to stay off the elevator so much when yanking a turn, as it is real effective, and not needed so much. Amazing how well it will fly high alpha, without stalling or dropping a wing tip.

Next, off to retrieve the German Plane. Back and the wind had picked up! Joey said it's my call if I don't want to try. Throttle up! Problem trying to taxi down wind for takeoff, the wind was strong enough it would flip the plane around into the wind as soon as the tail gets light! Oh, well, throttle up, take off, the 'A' drive seemed a little more powerful???? I guess Germans make betterr planes. The plane handled the wind pretty well. I like undercamber wings in the wind. Call me wierd.

After dinner, had to take the Russian Plane back out. First flight, great. Soon the plane stopped wanting to climb, and keep altitude. Oh well, that used gear drive, discovered the EDF motor is nearing the end of life. Already pulled the gearbox out, and have it disassembled. New motor in hand, tomorrow will finish the maintenance and get her back into the flight testing mode.

Oh, Joey? Yes I let him fly the Russian plane today, too. Once.

Fred
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Last edited by Freddie B; Aug 17, 2010 at 01:54 AM. Reason: Title
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 02:48 AM
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mtesa's Avatar
Joined Aug 2009
249 Posts
Crashed - again !!

I made, once more, the same mistake.
After flying my flying wings with 2.4Ghz TX, I simply forgot to extend my
TX antenna on 40MHz remote control.
Plane did take off and after some 40 meters nosed into the ground.
I was so mad at myself.
Then I decided to press it on and got some clear tape and glued the fuselage and took it off the ground.
Yes, I extended my antenna now.

Flight was OK. AUW is 420 gramm, TP 2408-21 motor with 18A ESC and 1000mAh 3S battery. Servos are HXT900, RX is Artech 40MHz.
It had some jerky moves some 150 meters away from me. I'm not sure is it becouse of some signal noise or due sustained damage.

Anyway I landed it after some 3-4 minutes of very very floaty flight.
After arriving home I removed the tape and it reveiled the total extend of damage. Fuselage was in pieces but I decided to try to fix it.

Next weekend it will be in the air.
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 03:15 PM
Not always grumpy!!
insomaniac45's Avatar
UK, Eastleigh, Eastleigh
Joined Jul 2010
522 Posts
Mtesa, why is there paint in the fracture lines??

all of the edges have paint, where there should be the colour of your foam. this will not be good for a repair, as you are glueing on paint, not foam.

it could make a weak point in the repair area. like with my ailerons, i broke on off on landing yesterday (damb little bish just jumped right in my landing zone lol ) i used gurilla glue, and it is stronger than before
make sure you glue foam to foam, then you know there is no contamination of the joint. my 1st attempt i left the paper on my foam, and all my control horns eventually worked loose, my rudder worked loose. it almost fell apart in the sky it was so heavy,
but i learnt by my mistake. and my bb mk2 was 99% paper free. (after hours of removing the stubbern stuff ffs)

sorry to hear about the crash tho, really hope you get her in the air soon. also with a little patience i think it will be right again repairable at least

edit~~~~

unless it is your foam and i am mistaken
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 04:00 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Looks like green foam. Heard of green foam, and if so where did you get it, brand, thickness, etc?

Fred
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 05:03 PM
Crash it first, Then fly it
Griffindor's Avatar
The Big Apple
Joined Jul 2008
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most likely is green foam. Unless paint soaked into foam... which would be really weird...
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 06:08 PM
Not always grumpy!!
insomaniac45's Avatar
UK, Eastleigh, Eastleigh
Joined Jul 2010
522 Posts
griff, thats what i thought about the paint, or the cracks were there when he started to paint , i have never seen or herd of green foam. esp here in england. (the land of the hard to get ) but if it is green foam then i was mistaken

but gorilla glu will def sort it out and make the fuse flyable once again just needs time to set thats all. so plenty of support on the fuse. and some needles to hold those edges true. and it will never break on that fracture again (bond is stronger than the foam )

gorrila glu is some amazing stuff.
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 06:48 PM
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USA, CA, San Carlos
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My dihedral ended up at 3" per side due to my miscuts. I figure I'll try it out and see how she flies. If need be I can easily cut out a new wing. I'd probably use balsa stock instead of the hardwood I'm using now, the wing alone is 3.9 oz. I think the balsa will suffice for the RET wing as it won't be doing too much crazy stuff. My current wing is STIFF, though!

My BB is undergoing a paint job at the moment - bright orange Krylon Shortcuts to contrast the blue FFF in a sunburst pattern.

- Jeff
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 09:19 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarnacki View Post
My dihedral ended up at 3" per side due to my miscuts. I figure I'll try it out and see how she flies. If need be I can easily cut out a new wing. I'd probably use balsa stock instead of the hardwood I'm using now, the wing alone is 3.9 oz. I think the balsa will suffice for the RET wing as it won't be doing too much crazy stuff. My current wing is STIFF, though!

My BB is undergoing a paint job at the moment - bright orange Krylon Shortcuts to contrast the blue FFF in a sunburst pattern.

- Jeff
That paint job should look great!

The excess dihedral might mainly show up as a jerky motion when making sharp turns, and exiting the turns. Possible the turns will seem to hesitate slightly. All in all it should be REALLY STABLE in flight, which is causing those jerky moves as the dihedral strats to fight the rudder's command. Think old time free flight conversion here. It won't be fatal, and if you don't like the way it flys, then build the new wing.

If you look at my post above (post # 14956 ), where I used craft sticks to make 5 1/2 inch long joiners (4 of them), my 34 1/2" wing weighs 2 ounces total. That is with joiners, paint, decals, 2" wide taped leading edge, 2" wide taped wingtips (top and bottom) and 2 full span strips of strapping tape on the underside. Very strong! Lose the paint and wintip tape you could get it around 1.5 to 1.7 ounces.
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