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Old Jun 18, 2009, 09:53 AM
In Rc for a LONG TIME FFAA#1
laserman's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Jun 2004
1,377 Posts
heres a link to the various modes for transmitters http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rc-...ter-modes.html
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Old Jun 18, 2009, 01:39 PM
BANDITRCN28
cvoyles's Avatar
USA, NC, Salisbury
Joined Jan 2008
808 Posts
I had a similar problem just like that and it turned out the TX and the RX could not hook up and the esc would lock out everything and just continuously beep.
I ended up switching the RX and solved the problem.....

thats my two cents for what its worth...

CVOYLES
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Old Jun 18, 2009, 06:55 PM
Addicted to flight since 1944
rbrown3rd's Avatar
southern Florida
Joined Feb 2004
1,750 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToyStar
Cut the monobloc last night using a hot wire. Motor mount fits perfectly in the cavity. Will do the tunneling for the pushrods tonight.
Sweet. Is that two inch foam? Looks thicker to me. I don't have the BBAP plans in front of me. You are doing a great job.

Here is my BluBaby all dressed up in her KFM2 aileron wing and ready to party.



Update.... 6/20/2009. Flew one pack for about 15 minutes. She flew realy smoothly. Inverted flight seems to be a bit of a problem. Even with the minimal dihedral I put in she wants to roll back upright. I increased the throw on my ailerons and that made the roll rate a lot snappier. I landed. Changed packs and launched again. Suddenly at the end of my field and while turning back something glitched and she dove vertically into the ground. I chopped throttle and the field is soft grass so really no major damage other than some dented foam. All cosmetic as far as I can tell. Now the trick will be tracking down the glitch. I use a Spektrum radio so I would put radio interference far down on the list but would not rule it out.

Anyway, I find that steep turns require a fair amount of up elevator as would be expected and upon roll out quite a bit of down elevator is required to prevent a dramatic climb. So trim change in turns is pretty dramatic. All in all the KFM wing continues to be a delightful sport wing to fly with or without ailerons. I suspect that I could glue the ailerons in a fixed position and she would fly just fine because I made turns without touching the ailerons and the BB would bank quite nicely. My next sport wing will be flat with no dihedral and that should make it even sportier. Still my most fun plane to fly with either the KFM or the UC wing.
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Old Jun 18, 2009, 09:18 PM
Registered User
ToyStar's Avatar
Penang, Malaysia.
Joined Apr 2009
50 Posts
[QUOTE=rbrown3rd]Sweet. Is that two inch foam? Looks thicker to me. I don't have the BBAP plans in front of me. You are doing a great job.

Here is my BluBaby all dressed up in her KFM2 aileron wing and ready to party.

Thanks for the compliment. Slightly thicker than 2 inch, 53mm to be exact. Foam is EPP.
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Old Jun 18, 2009, 09:49 PM
Registered User
Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
4,012 Posts
Flyingbird,

1st thing, does ANY of your servo work after you plug in the battery, when you move the sticks? If not, then the problems are:

1. You have the plugs in upside-down or wrong way around
2. Your rx and/or tx not working.
3. Your crystals not the same frequency. You must use the correct types of crystals for the tx and rx. The crystals for the tx and rx are NOT interchangeable even if they are the same frequency! I will not get into single/dual conversion crystals for the rx.
4. Your rx is +ve shift instead of -ve shift as required for a Futaba/Hitec system
5. Your rx is dead
6. The bec in the ESC is not supplying any current to the esc and other servos

If you have a multimeter/voltmeter, you can check out number 6 and see if you have anywhere near 5V across the RED/Black wires from the esc. Just plug the esc wire into the rx and stick the red probe onto the middle pin and the black probe onto the the pin the same side of where the black wire goes onto the rx. You can at least eliminate one fault. As for the other faults, you really need someone knowledgeable on-hand to help you out. We can try here to the best of our abilities, though.

Is the rx a Hitec brand or is it some other brand? If it is Hitec brand, you will not have problem with the +ve or -ve shift thing. If it came in a set brand new from the Hitec dealer, then you very likely will not have any problem with the crystals either, unless you plugged the rx crystals into the tx and vice-versa.

Please let us know all of these and show us some pictures like the others said so that we can see if we can spot anything wrong.

chewy
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 01:44 AM
flying with pride
India
Joined Dec 2007
80 Posts
Sorry for the late reply, my boss had screwed me with some work...
I will surely upload the photos to make sure everything is fine.
I contacted some aeromodeller nearby, both of them said there something wrong either with with my rx or tx.
About the questions asked above:
* There is no hobby shop nearby.
* I didn't check the voltage across the receiver pins, I will surely do it after reaching home, its a good idea.
* This is the receiver m using http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...idProduct=6406
* As mentioned above I will replace the receiver by this one:
http://indianhobbies.com/shop/index....products_id=88
for this I don't have the crystal, I inquired here, people don't have Hitech crystals, will these Hitech tx & rx work with any other crystals?
* Servos get a little movement at the moment I power up rx but after that they don't respond.
* I am trying to locate some one in the city who deals with this so the problem can be identified.

I will get back to the thread with the complete photos of the system. And I am really thankful to everyone here for their great help. Jimmy was right, people here love to help.
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 03:04 AM
Registered User
Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
4,012 Posts
Ok,

If the servo moved a little, that means there is power to the rx. Now for the Corona rx, did you "bind" the rx to your tx frequency? You have to go thru a certain procedure to set the rx frequency to that of your tx. I had 2 of these rx, and they are quite easy to set. These don't need any crystals for the rx. Just turn on the tx, then follow the steps I found on one of the reviews in hobbycity as show below:

(1) Hold down the scan button. LED Light will flash 3 times.
(2) after the 3-flash sequence finishes, immediately press the button again for 1sec or more.
The light will start flickering fast - the Rx is in the scan mode. Then it will pause and flash, and then stay ON (continuing red). At this point it is found and locked the TX. You should see the servos responding. You can disconnect the battery, reconnect and check that the frequency was remembered.

Also, this is from the corona-rc.com website:

Set up process
1. Turn on transmitter with the antenna extended
2. Power up the receiver. The receiver LED will flash 2 times quickly
3. Press the scan button on the receiver for 2 seconds,The LED will flash 3 times meaning the receiver is ready for the set up process.
4. Press the button on the receiver two times ,the receiver should blink quickly then light on .Now the receiver is ready for use .

Mode I Ė Short lit followed by a short dark period, repeated 3 times
Mode II - Long lit followed by a long dark period, repeated 3 times
Mode III - Short lit followed by a long dark period, repeated 3 times
Mode I sequence will repeat 3 times. Pressing the button in this mode will start the frequency locking process. If the button is not pressed, mode II will be entered.
Mode II sequence will repeat 2 times. Pressing the button in this mode will disable the failsafe function. If the button is not pressed, mode III will be entered.
Mode III sequence will repeat 2 times. Pressing the button in this mode will enable the failsafe function. If the button is not pressed, mode I will be entered again.
If no button is pressed these 3 modes will repeat 10 times, then end with 2 short LED flashes.

Mode I : locking to the transmitter frequency
1. Turn on the transmitter with the antenna extended.
2. Turn on the receiver. The LED will blink 2 times. If the LED remains lit then the receiver is receiving correct commands from a transmitter. If the LED goes out then the receiver is not receiving any correct commands, in which case you should set it up again...
3. To set it up, press the scan button for 2 seconds, then release it. The LED blinks 3 times now (should it blink 2 times, then press the button again for 2 seconds). While in mode I, press the button shortly. If the LED begins to blink quickly it means that the receiver is searching for a valid signal. Wait for 2-3 seconds for the search to complete.
Once the receiver is locked to the transmitter, the LED will flash 2 times and then remain lit. If the LED goes out again, check the transmitter.
4. After the receiver has locked, if you donít change frequency, the receiver will work whenever you connect it to the power. No need to relock.
Caution: when locking your receiver, please ensure only your own transmitter is working and put your receiver close enough to your transmitter.

Mode II : disabling the failsafe
1. Turn on the transmitter with the antenna extended.
2. Turn on the receiver. The LED will blink 2 times. If the LED remains lit then the receiver is receiving correct commands from a transmitter.
3. To set it up, press the scan button for 2 seconds, then release it. The LED blinks 3 times now (should it blink 2 times, then press the button again for 2 seconds). While in mode II, press the button shortly to start the failsafe disabling process.
4. The LED will flash 2 times and then remain lit. The transmitter now does not control the receiver and the failsafe has been disabled. You must now restart the receiver.

Mode III : enabling the failsafe
1. Turn on the transmitter with the antenna extended.
2. Turn on the receiver. The LED will blink 2 times. If the LED remains lit then the receiver is receiving correct commands from a transmitter.
3. Adjust the sticks and switches on the transmitter to the position that you feel will best protect your aircraft in the event of a loss of signal. Typically the throttle is decreased and a slight elevator input is required to maintain a controlled glide slope. You should notice as you set the sticks and switches that the receiver is responding indicating the transmitter and receiver are synchronized.
4. To set it up, press the scan button for 2 seconds, then release it. The LED blinks 3 times now (should it blink 2 times, then press the button again for 2 seconds). While in mode III, press the button shortly to start the failsafe enabling process.
5. The LED will flash 2 times and then remain lit. The transmitter now does not control the receiver and the failsafe has been enabled. You must now restart the receiver.

During this setting step do not turn off the transmitter. Otherwise the receiver will not record the position of sticks and switches and it will not retain a failsafe setting. Should this occur you will notice the LED flashing twice and then going dark indicating that you will have to start the process over.

Caution:
1. Restart the receiver when the set up process of disabling or enabling the failsafe is completed.
2. While in Mode I, Mode II or Model III you can cut power to cancel the setting process. Do not cut power in the process of locking receiver, disabling failsafe or enabling failsafe. Otherwise your receiver may be damaged.
3. After enabling failsafe, please readjust the transmitter settings of sticks and switches for the correct flight conditions.

Installing the receiver
1. Plug in all the servos/ESC. Pay attention to the polarity of the connectors. Please consult the labels on the case for the channel numbers and polarity.
Caution: If the polarity of the plugs is wrong, it can damage the servos/ESC.
2. If not using an ESC with a built in battery eliminator circuit (BEC), plug a 4.8V battery/switch harness into any unused channel. If you are using all the channels for servos, use a Y harness to connect the battery and servo to 1 channel.
3. Wrap the receiver in foam to isolate it from vibration and secure it in the aircraft with for instance a rubber band.
4. Unwind the antenna fully. Do not coil or cut the antenna.

Try the above and let us know. I think you probably have not scanned your tx frequency into the rx yet, and that is why you rx is not responding.

chewy
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 06:30 AM
flying with pride
India
Joined Dec 2007
80 Posts
I have done that also...
I scanned it, I have programmed it thrice and I have disabled the failsafe. The same catalog was provided along with the rx.

And yes, my tx is having mode 2, its throttle stick is in left side.
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Last edited by flyingbird; Jun 19, 2009 at 06:50 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 08:27 AM
Registered User
Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
4,012 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingbird
I have done that also...
I scanned it, I have programmed it thrice and I have disabled the failsafe. The same catalog was provided along with the rx.

And yes, my tx is having mode 2, its throttle stick is in left side.

You mean you have programmed the rx, and it has locked onto the tx's frequency? Did the LED remain lit after the programming? I no longer has one of these so I can't check, but did you do a long press of the button after setting the frequency? Hmmm or was that for the MKS PCM rx, which I also no longer use, since I am switched almost completely to 2.4G (mainly ASSAN)

chewy
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 01:43 PM
flying with pride
India
Joined Dec 2007
80 Posts
Bingoooooooooo

I was taking photos to update it here, took all the photos and thought of giving it try once again, this time I tried with channel 1. Results were same, BEEP BEEP BEEP. Then I thought of adjusting the ATV(Adjustable travel volume). When I rotated it, beeps were gone and after a long beep motor started running at full speed. Cannot explain how happy was I.
Now problem is identified, there is something wrong with the sticks, in my transmitter channel1 and channel2 are given ATV, and both the channels are working fine I have confirmed by plugging one servo in channel2. I can control throttle and servo with ATV.

Thank you very much one and all here for their support and guidance, now my bluebaby is dying to get airborne...

I will have to order one tx, ca you guys suggest which one should I go for?
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 02:06 PM
Registered User
horja's Avatar
Romania /Bucarest
Joined Dec 2007
73 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by springer
Just to add another question to the mix, you noted that you are in India, did you get the Transmitter from the US? It's possible you have a Mode1 setup and what we are discussing may not apply correctly. Mode 1 or 2 defines the location of the throttle stick on the transmitter. t!
See that:

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rc-...ter-modes.html
I hope it is clear
Smooth landings

Sorry! now I ssee It was already posted
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 02:27 PM
FLAPS? We don't need no Flaps!
Jacksonville, Fl
Joined Aug 2008
28 Posts
I got one of the little video cameras that is about the size of a pack of gum and I have been having a blast with it. I strapped it to my 40 inch BB looking down the right wing and flew it around RAF (Redneck Air Field) Middleburg. and you can see it at http://www.ragwing1.com/foamair/aircam3.wmv and I have a few construction pictuires of my plane at http://www.ragwing1.com/foamair/bb.htm
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 02:33 PM
In Rc for a LONG TIME FFAA#1
laserman's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Jun 2004
1,377 Posts
need some congrats

in this job market i was able to land a job!! start moday after being out of work for over a year
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 03:26 PM
Registered User
Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
4,012 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingbird
I was taking photos to update it here, took all the photos and thought of giving it try once again, this time I tried with channel 1. Results were same, BEEP BEEP BEEP. Then I thought of adjusting the ATV(Adjustable travel volume). When I rotated it, beeps were gone and after a long beep motor started running at full speed. Cannot explain how happy was I.
Now problem is identified, there is something wrong with the sticks, in my transmitter channel1 and channel2 are given ATV, and both the channels are working fine I have confirmed by plugging one servo in channel2. I can control throttle and servo with ATV.

Thank you very much one and all here for their support and guidance, now my bluebaby is dying to get airborne...

I will have to order one tx, ca you guys suggest which one should I go for?

Good for you. I thought I mentioned for you to check the ATV/EPA a looong time ago? Didn't you do that?

What kind of features are you looking for and how much are you willing to spend? If you are starting from new again, I suggest you start with a 2.4GHz system. Let us know the price range, and we'll see if we can dig up something to suit that is reasonably good.

Happy flying

chewy
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 03:27 PM
Registered User
Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
4,012 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by laserman
in this job market i was able to land a job!! start moday after being out of work for over a year

Congrats! I am more worried about getting the $$ to pay my staff and myself.

chewy
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