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Old Sep 08, 2007, 05:53 PM
Micro Flyer "Q"
qban_flyer's Avatar
United States, MD, Silver Spring
Joined Sep 2003
1,397 Posts
Any idea as to where Tony's plans for the floats are?

I've looked all over and so far I can't come up with them.

EDIT: OOOPS! I just realized I had saved them away to one one of my ext. HDDs with the rest of the BB PDF files, I had them here all along, silly, silly me.


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Last edited by qban_flyer; Sep 08, 2007 at 05:59 PM.
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Old Sep 08, 2007, 07:17 PM
Postcards From The Purple Edge
tuppertn's Avatar
United States, OK, Sand Springs
Joined May 2007
3,919 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite
i've been debating on how i'll go about making removeable floats for my bbap 60".
Lemme know what you figure out, kev. I've still got the 39" floats I made for the BBB (my she Rest In Pieces) that should work well for the BBAP if we can solve that one.
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Old Sep 08, 2007, 10:11 PM
Postcards From The Purple Edge
tuppertn's Avatar
United States, OK, Sand Springs
Joined May 2007
3,919 Posts
My BBAP is done except for the motor. Still trying to make up my mind there. Current available choices are BP21 (70W/lb, reasonably light), HXT 35-36-1000 (160W/lb, heavy, thirsty), and KDA 20-22L (100W/lb, middle weight). The BP21 should be fine, but I really like the KDA 20-22L. Problem is it's on the BB32 right now and it just doesn't seem right to rob the Li'l Girl.

Depending on what motor she gets:
AUW: right around 25oz including a 3s 2250.
WS: 96"
Wing Area: 918 sq. in.
Wing Loading: 3.9oz/sq. ft.
(I think those numbers are right for 96"WS, 12.75" root/6.375" tip cord)

kendall
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 03:19 PM
Out the Window
High Flyin''s Avatar
United States, FL, Alachua
Joined Jul 2004
1,277 Posts
Fuse Warp

Well I finally started to build a 33" Blue-Baby. I have all of the foam cut and started to glue up the fuse. I used hot glue to put in the top and bottom pieces of the fuse. Hot glue works quickly so there was not really any time for adjustments. The body came out with an apparent warp behind the wing area. I have posted a pic. Do you think this warp will affect the flight a lot? Do you think I should build another body or go ahead and use this warped one?

I think the warp is more apparent when looking at the plane than in the picture.

Ray
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 04:02 PM
Micro Flyer "Q"
qban_flyer's Avatar
United States, MD, Silver Spring
Joined Sep 2003
1,397 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by High Flyin'
Well I finally started to build a 33" Blue-Baby. I have all of the foam cut and started to glue up the fuse. I used hot glue to put in the top and bottom pieces of the fuse. Hot glue works quickly so there was not really any time for adjustments. The body came out with an apparent warp behind the wing area. I have posted a pic. Do you think this warp will affect the flight a lot? Do you think I should build another body or go ahead and use this warped one?

I think the warp is more apparent when looking at the plane than in the picture.

Ray
Its tail has a pretty apparent left swing to it in that pix.

You will probably have to add so much right rudder to commensate for this problem, the plane may not track straight when moving forward. IMHO, I believe building another fuselage is the thing to do.

It's really a shame as it looks like you did a very nice job of cutting the parts.
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 04:41 PM
Postcards From The Purple Edge
tuppertn's Avatar
United States, OK, Sand Springs
Joined May 2007
3,919 Posts
Don't give up just yet. I've made hot glue boo-boos and have managed to correct a couple with a super sharp, scalpel-type knife. You can cut through the glue if you're careful. Worth a try anyway.
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 06:56 PM
Nerd
Ottawa, Canada
Joined Apr 2007
99 Posts
Just a beginner, but a similar problem happened with me, Ray. Someone suggested for me to use strapping tape, to apply some pressure on the fuse, and to add some tape on the side that I wanted the fuse to turn to.

It worked VERY well, and fixed most of the problems I had. From what I can see, the parts are cut nicely, and if you spent a good amount of time on them, I'd try the strapping tape surgery.

Take care,
-Omar
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 07:34 PM
AKA Don
bz1mcr's Avatar
United States, MI, Houghton Lake
Joined Dec 2002
7,584 Posts
I'm with tuppertn, it should be relatively easy to remove the warp by cutting and re-glueing. You can cut at a glue joint or make a new cut that lets the parts move and then glue it in the new straight position.
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 10:50 PM
Flying 3 mistakes high
GlennS's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2004
1,522 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony65x55

I did have a chance to work on the BBAP2 plans in Geneva so I'll post 'em up later today.

Tony
Hi Tony, were the plans for the BBAP2 posted????
After so much fun with the Se5a, the BPAP2 sounds like a great project!

Cheers,

Glenn.
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 11:08 PM
I'm not flying backwards!
Tony65x55's Avatar
Oshawa, Canada
Joined Sep 2004
3,753 Posts
Blu-Baby Aerial Photography Mk.II

My friends, I apologize to all for the delay.

This is the Blu-Baby Aerial Photography Mk.II, AKA the BBAP2. As evidenced by my previous postings it has very successfully flown. The aircraft was designed to be transportable in a Rubbermaid storage container purchased at Walmart for $19.95. The current "state of the art" KFm wing is constructed in three section, cut in half and the joiners fitted. This whole stage can be easily omitted is extreme portability is not desired. Due to the size limitations imposed by the storage container, the BBAP2 has a short, squat fuselage and a generous tail fin mounted forward on top of the fuselage. The horizontal stabilizer and elevator are removable through two #10 nylon bolts screwed into blind nuts in the tail. Total time from box to flight is less than five minutes. The wing is held to the fuse with rubber bands.

Power is provided by a ST Models 1000KV brushless powered by a 3s 2100mah Apogee. Flight times are over twenty minutes with proper power useage.

Like all BBs, this aircraft is designed to be stable and easy to fly. It is a rudder/elevator aircraft. I feel that the mission of an AP aircraft is to take photographs and adding unnecessary complexity adds weight and workload during a flight. The BBAP2's job is to loft an expensive digital camera and return it safely to the ground. The aircraft may also be fitted with aileron / flaps / flaperons at the builder's discretion. I do see the possible application for flaperons, both for quality coordinate turns and to tailor the wing's lift to accomodate payload. I may also build another wing with a Clark Y profile or a UC profile to fine tune it's payload carrying performance.

Here are the plans and a flight pic. I will take a bunch of detail photographs and post them in this thread. As always, these plans are for your personal use and enjoyment and are not to be commercially produced. Enjoy,

Tony
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 11:23 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,520 Posts
some warp can be removed by cutting & regluing. as a matter of fact just last week i finished fixing a botched infineon bipe build using the same antiwarping technique. here's my post including pics of the "fixed" fuse:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8134528&postcount=1785


like you said, pics tend to hide warps, but you might notice there's still a small warp favoring right yaw. it's so minor that only the pilot can notice between left & right knife edge flight.

like qban mentioned, if you leave it as is, the bb may use up most of it's rudder deflection just to compensate for that warp, leaving you with little control authority in one direction. the warped bipe you see in those pics flies quite well as is, but it also has a huge rudder compared to the bb.

i'd try straightening the to the best of your abilities & see how it flies. cutting slivers out of the sides & pulling tape tight alone worked well on my epp bipe, but blucor is so much stiffer that you may have to resort to more extreme methods. in fact, it may be easiest for you to just amputate the whole tail just behind the wing saddle, sand the joint to fix the alignment, & reglue it straight with strapping tape. you might end up lucky with a perfect fuse, and it would definately take less time (& no materials really) compared to building a new one.

luckily the wing is removeable on this plane, so you can always build another fuse later on if there are issues with warping. i was sort of forced in to finishing my bipe with the warp, since the warp was glued in with the main wing (ie, rebuilding would be at least a 90% waste of the epp & cf required to build one).

good luck
-kev

ps: please do us a favor, if/when you rebuild the fuse, use uhu creativ or gorilla glue instead. avoid hotglue if you need time to align things. (fyi, i've tried hotglue on a few occasions & now i avoid it like prarie dogs, i mean the plague.)
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 11:34 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,520 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony65x55
My friends, I apologize to all for the delay.
...
Tony
what delay? imho that was a short turn around tony. i'm sure you had a few kinks to iron out before releasing plans anyways.

20min with kfm? bravo!

btw, since you're thinking about an airfoil for this ship, i've recently noticed a few very efficient "enclosed area" (aka monocoque) structures being built out of selitac. using selitac for the clark-y wing could make for a very stiff & light hybrid. just my $.02

cheers tony, and thanks again for the plans!
kev

[downloaded, proud to be one of the first to have your plans.]
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Old Sep 10, 2007, 04:39 AM
Registered User
Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
4,011 Posts
Uhh, what is selitac?

Tony, would it be possible to rearrange and separate the plans into A0 sized sheets? We cannot plot 60" wide sheets where we live in Malaysia, even commercial printers.

chewy
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Old Sep 10, 2007, 06:06 AM
I'm not flying backwards!
Tony65x55's Avatar
Oshawa, Canada
Joined Sep 2004
3,753 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite
ps: please do us a favor, if/when you rebuild the fuse, use uhu creativ or gorilla glue instead. avoid hotglue if you need time to align things. (fyi, i've tried hotglue on a few occasions & now i avoid it like prarie dogs, i mean the plague.)
That's funny! (see attached)

OK Kev, I'll bite. What is selitac?

Tony
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Old Sep 10, 2007, 06:07 AM
I'm not flying backwards!
Tony65x55's Avatar
Oshawa, Canada
Joined Sep 2004
3,753 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by chewytm
Uhh, what is selitac?

Tony, would it be possible to rearrange and separate the plans into A0 sized sheets? We cannot plot 60" wide sheets where we live in Malaysia, even commercial printers.

chewy
Chewy, the "parts" doc is tiled 8.5X11" sheets. Do you need the "Full" plan tiled too?

Tony
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