HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Sep 10, 2008, 01:18 AM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2008
441 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by springer
Was the esc you switched in also a 12 amp? perhaps the motor is pulling more amps than the esc likes? what brand is the esc? Did it pull full throttle the four flights this am? I have had motors act like that when for some reason the battery connector isn't fully inserted. (this with jst and sometimes they "hang up" about half way in, will run the servos, but motor will start but stop if throttle advanced - I'd be surprised to hear that with the minideans, tho)
switched esc was 12a, motor pulls about 7 amps,esc is the tower pro 9g 12a, work fine at full throttle all am flights
gramps45 is offline Find More Posts by gramps45
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Sep 10, 2008, 05:32 AM
Glue-it-again-Ben!
blxpy's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2008
813 Posts
Hey guys - what battery connecters do you use on your smaller planes - BB33, 24 etc?

I'm using Deans copies at the moment, but am looking to start using something smaller like JST or Deans Micro. Any opinions?
blxpy is offline Find More Posts by blxpy
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 06:29 AM
Registered User
MadDuc's Avatar
Joined Oct 2004
789 Posts
On small/light planes with moderate power consumption I use JST. On the larger planes/higher power consumption I use Deans.

JST on the BB42 by the way.
MadDuc is offline Find More Posts by MadDuc
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 06:47 AM
I'm not flying backwards!
Tony65x55's Avatar
Oshawa, Canada
Joined Sep 2004
3,753 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadDuc
On small/light planes with moderate power consumption I use JST. On the larger planes/higher power consumption I use Deans.

JST on the BB42 by the way.
I use JST's on the 33 and 24, Deans on everything else. I have melted a few of the JST's right through.

Tony
Tony65x55 is offline Find More Posts by Tony65x55
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 06:52 AM
I'm not flying backwards!
Tony65x55's Avatar
Oshawa, Canada
Joined Sep 2004
3,753 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cybernaught
I have 12 - 8x4, 6 - 8x6, 1 - 10x4.7 on hand now and 2 - 9x3.7 coming. I was figuring on the 8x4 or 8x6 for this one. This is in with my order for 2 b21 combos, 3 13002s batts, 3 prop-savers and some small hardware. I may increase the wingspan to 45", polyhedral and shoot for around 4 to 5 oz per sq-ft. I may build several wings to see which I like best. I'm thinking Clark Y and KFm2 as well as the KFm3. Anyway I have plenty of time because the parts won't get here for about 10 days to 2 weeks.

How do you think the battery motor combo would work on a BB-33? Better than the 42/45? The electronics including battery will be around 170grams, 200 at the most and figuring the same for the plane with linkages would give me an all up weight of around 14oz. (400g)

I'm looking for a floater with good manners and around 20 min flying time on one charge assuming I keep a light thumb on the throttle. I was thinking I can have one batt in the plane and two on the charger. My initial flying will be in calm weather only until I get my thumbs back. If the wind picks up I'll be building, in the sailboat or on my AG range.

Steve.
Steve, if you're looking for a floater then that motor combo is too heavy for a BB33, go with the 42. The BB42 can be pretty floaty with the stock wing.

BTW, a little known fact: The 60" polyhedral wing for the BBAP2 will fit on the BB42. It floats too. Just thought I'd mention it.

Tony
Tony65x55 is offline Find More Posts by Tony65x55
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 07:47 AM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
dz1sfb's Avatar
Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
10,455 Posts
Watch Motor Wires

Quote:
Originally Posted by gramps45
have a brain buster question. my bb33 have a 24 grm hc motor,12a esc, 800mah batt been running this set up for awhile. did four flights this morning fine. went back this evening. gave half throttle fine, gave full throttle motor cut off. this happens intermittedly. things done to trouble shoot change esc, tried 620,800,1000 mah still happen now and then. put motor in another plane motor run okay. batt conn. are mini deans,esc have 2.0 gold conn,have checkk all solder joints. using dx7 and 6100 rcvr. any suggestions

thanks
gramps
Gramps,

Check your motor wires where they go into the windings. Some of these motors have very fragile wires and can break or ground to the bearing tube. This will cause the motor not to run, or run intermittently. Evrything else sounds like it is okay.

Apply the Sherlock Holmes quote "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?

Ken
dz1sfb is offline Find More Posts by dz1sfb
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Mini H Quad Project
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 08:55 AM
Onward through the fog.
Cybernaught's Avatar
Bohol Philippines
Joined Aug 2008
1,566 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony65x55
Steve, if you're looking for a floater then that motor combo is too heavy for a BB33, go with the 42. The BB42 can be pretty floaty with the stock wing.

BTW, a little known fact: The 60" polyhedral wing for the BBAP2 will fit on the BB42. It floats too. Just thought I'd mention it.

Tony
I bet it would be a floater with the 60" wing. TNX for the info, Tony. Would the stabilizers need to be enlarged too or would stock size work OK in your opinion?

Got the Hot wire bow finished. I added a momentary normally open switch so I can turn it on and off in use and for safety too. You have to hold the button down for the current to run. The yellow rope loop at the top is very easy to adjust to get the right tension on the wire. The 6 amp charger uses an old auto battery as a regulator and I have a female auto lighter socket to install that will allow me to use my HX 8080 charger in an open area for remote charging and safety. Still looking for a teracota pot to hold the batteries though. I installed the servos on bamboo rails to allow easy removal, as the pictures show. Hot gluing them in would be easier but I really want them removable.

Didn't get to test the bow coz it was dark thirty when I finished and Edna had some "honey-do's" for me. Now if I can find someone, for a couple of bucks a day, to do all these odd jobs I'd have enough time for my hobbies. Gotta keep the priorities straight!

Steve.
Cybernaught is offline Find More Posts by Cybernaught
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 10:09 AM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2008
441 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1sfb
Gramps,

Check your motor wires where they go into the windings. Some of these motors have very fragile wires and can break or ground to the bearing tube. This will cause the motor not to run, or run intermittently. Evrything else sounds like it is okay.

Apply the Sherlock Holmes quote "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?

Ken

ken i put epoxy where the wires go into the motor. thats where our guess of where the problem might be also. i'm waiting on my new motor to come,to change out. that the only thing we hav'nt changed.

thanks
gramps
gramps45 is offline Find More Posts by gramps45
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 10:11 AM
Registered User
jhtitan's Avatar
Washington MO
Joined Jul 2008
567 Posts
Hot Wire question

What are you guys using for the wire? I built a set up and used guitar strings. I have a 12v 10A (maybe less) power supply from a base station radio transmitter. it definitely put out plenty of Volts and Amps as I kept burning my wire in 2 near the + side of my bow. it would turn bright orange and snap while I was cutting. I tried putting a Dimmer switch on it but they arent very reliable at the low Voltage range. was going to try some steel wire as I had read that works good. just curious about your set ups.
Thanks
Jon
jhtitan is offline Find More Posts by jhtitan
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 11:05 AM
Time for another motto!
Utrecht, The Netherlands
Joined Jul 2006
1,413 Posts
It is not the wire that is your problem: you are pushing way to many amps in it. A bigger wire would have even less resistance, meaning you'll draw more amps, not less.
You can do 2 things to bring down the current (amp) decrease the voltage, but if you have a regulated power supply a dimmer switch won't work (very good). The other option is to increase the resistance of the wire: mare the cutting wire longer, or put another load like a 12v incandecent lamp in series with it. If you already have the dimmer switch, add a cheap halogen transformer that can do a few amps. It is quite easy to set the right temperature (not glowing, just hot enough to melt the foam slightly) with a single dial.
JelleB is offline Find More Posts by JelleB
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 12:31 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2008
441 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by blxpy
Hey guys - what battery connecters do you use on your smaller planes - BB33, 24 etc?

I'm using Deans copies at the moment, but am looking to start using something smaller like JST or Deans Micro. Any opinions?
blxpy if you use the micro deans, when you store you batts make sure the deans plug don't come in contact with the balance plug. it can short ouy the batt. this happen to a friend of mine. now i put a rubber band around the deans and batt to secure it. just to be safe.

thanks
gramps
gramps45 is offline Find More Posts by gramps45
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 02:15 PM
Registered User
jhtitan's Avatar
Washington MO
Joined Jul 2008
567 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JelleB
It is not the wire that is your problem: you are pushing way to many amps in it. A bigger wire would have even less resistance, meaning you'll draw more amps, not less.
You can do 2 things to bring down the current (amp) decrease the voltage, but if you have a regulated power supply a dimmer switch won't work (very good). The other option is to increase the resistance of the wire: mare the cutting wire longer, or put another load like a 12v incandecent lamp in series with it. If you already have the dimmer switch, add a cheap halogen transformer that can do a few amps. It is quite easy to set the right temperature (not glowing, just hot enough to melt the foam slightly) with a single dial.
the wire doesnt end up glowing until I start cutting then only about 1" on the + side of my bow. I tried adding a resistor to the mix and a light bulb both at one time and it didnt help any. just made the wire not heat up at all. maybe I will try to mess with it this weekend. if I have some time lol.I was thinking maybe it wasnt enough Amps to keep the wire hot while I was cutting as the wire in the foam cooled the wire outside the foam heated up and melted. that was how it seemed anyway. I could let it sit all day with the cutter on and it was fine. until I started cutting and if I did too long of a cut it melted the wire.
this is most likely a question for another thread. but all the pics of foam cutters made me ask . would be nice to have it working properly. will double check the available amps on my Power supply was talking to a buddie and he thought it was only a 5A supply. I am currentl useing it as a power supply for my LiPo charger but can easily swap out the cig plug for another fitting.
thanks
Jon
jhtitan is offline Find More Posts by jhtitan
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 04:31 PM
Onward through the fog.
Cybernaught's Avatar
Bohol Philippines
Joined Aug 2008
1,566 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhtitan
What are you guys using for the wire? I built a set up and used guitar strings. I have a 12v 10A (maybe less) power supply from a base station radio transmitter. it definitely put out plenty of Volts and Amps as I kept burning my wire in 2 near the + side of my bow. it would turn bright orange and snap while I was cutting. I tried putting a Dimmer switch on it but they arent very reliable at the low Voltage range. was going to try some steel wire as I had read that works good. just curious about your set ups.
Thanks
Jon
The comments on your question seem to have pointed to the most likely solutions. I use Stainless Steel leader wire. The Agrivet store here carries two gauges and the smaller one seems to work ok when I cut the wire around 25 to 27 inches. I haven't tried the thicker wire coz the thin stuff works well. It's about the same thickness as the smallest string on a guitar, maybe a touch bigger. It sounds like the resistance is lowering when you start to melt the foam??? I don't see how that could happen unless you are using metal guides to run the wire against when making the cut and one of them is shorted to the neg terminal of the charger somehow. I used a couple of 1/2" plastic pipe handles to vary the length of the wire while testing before making the bow. That gave me a length that works OK with my equipment. Nichrome wire from the hobby shops is designed for this use and I never had problems with using that before when I lived in the US. They don't have it here in PI.

Edit: I use 1/4" ply for all my guides, drill small holes in it and pin it to the sides of the foam with toothpicks.

Good luck, and let us know what is causing your problem when you figure it out. I, for one, am really curious.
Steve.
Cybernaught is offline Find More Posts by Cybernaught
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 04:32 PM
In Rc for a LONG TIME FFAA#1
laserman's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Jun 2004
1,375 Posts
hey guys check this out

will soon be working on getting the bb cut with this http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post10523436
laserman is offline Find More Posts by laserman
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2008, 05:05 PM
Registered User
MadDuc's Avatar
Joined Oct 2004
789 Posts
Night flights are a blast!!!

Night flights are great fun!!! I have flown for about 20-25min tonight with different props and probably 15 minutes in the dark. Really nice if you have the navigation lights and you keep the plane relatively close.

I have done about 10 slow landings on a different field than in the video. I was having so much fun with flying in the dark I almost forgot how much fun it is to do aerobatics but then, when I was a bit too relaxed I steered the plane towards the road, a bit to far out of sight and got a navigation problem, could not really see how the plane was turning.... It went towards my car..... and towards some houses. I decided to land it quickly, hoping it would not land in the gulley, but not on the road either. It came done with a smack on the tarmac I heard it crack. Then I saw some cars driving fast through that street, I ran towards the plane...... came to the plane and saw that both cars had just missed the plane by about half a meter... phew . The plane landed on the road about 1,5 meter behind my car. Time to stop.

I examined the plane. The vertical stab had come loose and the fuse was broken slightly, just where I had inserted an additional foam block into the battery bay in order to access the batteries from the side.

2-minute glue job and it was ready for action again!!!

It as a pity I didn't bring my videocam since I was flying so close by it was great fun to see all the lights in the plane.... we'll try to do that soon, hopefully it will show it better on the video than last time.

I tried a 10x4.7 APC prop but it was too much with the 3S lipo, motor got hot and started to cut out. I then tried a 8x4 GWS prop, much better. When I came back home I also found a 9x4.7 APC, will try that soon as well.

I am thinking of building an additional wing, 52" or 60" without ailerons (since the plane prefers to steer with the tail anyway and 2" dihedral instead of 1" so it will level itself even easier. Here are 2 pics of the slight damage.
MadDuc is offline Find More Posts by MadDuc
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Video Blu-Baby Primary Trainer Tony65x55 Electric Plane Talk 0 May 05, 2007 06:05 AM
Chosing Trainer...Kit?Plans?RTF? Seared Ice Fuel Plane Talk 49 Aug 16, 2004 11:50 AM
Which SPAD Trainer to build?? Plans? VBSuperMaxx SPAD - Simple Plastic Airplane Designs 12 May 05, 2004 09:19 PM
Sold FS: Fireball 550 Trainer "PLANS" Rudderman98 Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 4 Dec 05, 2002 07:38 PM